\  f/^v 


GIFT    OF 

JANE  K.SATHER 


W  l^di 


A  Twentieth  Century  TraveelEr  in  Peru 

frontispiece 


The  Land  of  To-morrow 

A   Newspaper   Exploration    Up  the 

Amazon  and  Over  the  Andes 

TO  THE  California  of 

South  America 


By  J.    ORTON   ^ERBEY 
Author  of  ^^THE  BOY  SPY,"  -ON  THE  WAR  PATH."  etc. 


NEW  YORK 

w.  F.  brainard,  publisher 

EIGHTEEN     EAST     SEVENTEENTH     STREET 
1906 


Copyright  1905 
By  J.  ORTON  KERBEY 


^^ 


CONTENTS 

Pages. 
Introductory  or  Foreword  -----  1 

CHAPTER  I 
Amazonia,  the  Land  of  To-morrow.  How  to  get  There. 
Tramp  Steamers  and  Missionary  Passengers.  St. 
Thomas,  Martinique,  Barbados.  Direct  trade 
between  New  Orleans  and  Para,  uniting  Amazon 
and  Mississippi  Valleys.  Sub-ventions.  Over  the 
Equator.  North  Star  disappears.  Southern  Cross 
rises.  Old  gold  colored  and  fresh  water  sea.  The 
mouth  of  the  Amazon.     The  Island  of  Marajo.  11 

CHAPTER  II 
Some  erroneous  impressions  of  the  sea-port  of  the 
Amazon.  Customs.  Architecture.  Streets.  San 
Jose  Ave.,  Royal  Palm  and  Mango  shade  trees. 
Dress.  Class  distinctions.  Aristocracy.  Titles. 
Early  coffee  and  church  ceremonial.  Late 
breakfast. --26 

CHAPTER  III 
Extensive  business  in  rubber  and  tropical  products. 
Expensive  living.  Queer  currency.  Climate. 
Seasons  for  religious  Festas.  The  zone  of 
unhealthfulness.  Yellow  fever,  beri-beri,  leprosy. 
Better  land  beyond. 43 

CHAPTER  IV 

First  Thousand  Miles  up  the  Amazon,  Steamer  Service, 
Mileage  and  Navigation.  English  Steamboat 
Controls  Navigation.  Tropical  Panorama.  The 
American  Colony  at  Santaraem.  Unexplored 
regions  of  Equatorial  America.         -         -         -  58 

iii 


328800 


CHAPTER  V 
Manaos,  the  St.  Louis  of  the  Amazon.  Business. 
Climate.  Health  and  Society.  Dom  Pedro's  decree 
of  free  navigation.  Brazilians  change  the  names 
of  rivers.  Upper  outlet  of  Amazon.  A  proposed 
Republic  of  Amazonia,  predicted.       -         -         -         70 

CHAPTER  VI 

The  Second  thousand  miles  up  the  Amazon.  Voyage  of 
the  Juan  Alfredo.  Hammock  tete-a-tete  on  board. 
Sad  story  of  Luzia.  The  punishment  for  flirting 
on  an  Amazon  boat.  The  Peruvian  Frontier.  The 
exiles  of  Brazilian  Siberia.  Boundary  between 
Brazil  and  Peru  in  dispute,  marked  by  Rio  Javaree 
and  other  state  lines  by  Rio  Napo  of  Ecuador.  81 

CHAPTER  VII 
Iquitos.      Amazonian   Peru.      Direct   river   navigation. 
Opportunities  for  American  Trade  and  Commerce. 
Rubber    and    forest    products.     Gold    and    silver 
Mines.      Political    Conditions.  -         -         -  99 

CHAPTER  VIII 
Social  Life  in  Iquitos.     Bamboo  and  Thatch  Architec- 
ture.    Churches  and  the  Padres.     How  to  Learn 
Spanish.    Peruvian  Fourth  of  July.    Indian  Dances 
and  Customs.         -         -         -         -         -         -         110 

CHAPTER  IX 
Source  of  the  Amazon  and  origin  of  the  name.  From 
Iquitos  to  Yurrimaguas  on  small  boat.  Opportuni- 
ties for  American  Steamboats  on  Upper  Amazon. 
Resources  of  Eastern  Peru.  Trade  with  Indians. 
White  Indians.  The  Princess  Clemencia.  The 
tributaries  Huallagua  and  Maranon.  The  Ucayali 
route  to  Lima.  Peruvian  Concessions.  Proposed 
return  via  Ucayali.  Arrive  Yurrimaguas,  the  head 
of  steam  navigation  to  the  west.      -         -         -         127 

iv 


CHAPTER  X 
Resources  of  the  Upper  Amazon.  Peonage  or  Peruvian 
Slavery.  Canoeing  outfit.  Description  of  Canoes. 
The  Start.  First  day  and  night.  The  siclc  girl. 
Mosquitoes,  Sand  Flies  and  other  insect  pests. 
Habits  of  Indian  paddlers.    Turtle  Eggs.    Curios.     141 

CHAPTER  XI 
Canoeing  by  Daylight  or  dawn.  Indians*  queer  customs. 
Bananas  the  bread  of  the  Country.  Monkey  legs 
for  meat.  The  Cannibal  Indians  of  the  Land  of 
To-morrow.  A  pleasant  stop  over  night.  Donna 
Maria   and    Quillocaca.  -         -         -         -         162 

CHAPTER  XII 
Change  Canoes  and  Paddlers.  Two  days  and  a  half  In 
Canyon.  Hot  water  cascade  alongside  of  cold 
water  falls.  The  Salt  Mines  of  Peru.  Indians 
Poisoning  the  fish.  A  cloudburst.  Chatsuta  the 
head  of  Canoe  Navigation.  Indian  girls  as  Canoe- 
ists. Walks  through  the  Indian  village.  The 
Alcade  arranges  for  journey  over  the  first  of  the 
Cordilleras. 180 

CHAPTER  XIII 
First  day  over  the  Mountains.  A  rain  storm,  and  a 
night  of  discomfort,  followed  by  illness.  Arrival 
at  Tarapota  sick.  Visit  of  Padre  and  Patriarch. 
The  Miraculous  cure.  Chu-chu-wassa.  Letters  of 
introduction  more  potent  than  letters  of  credit. 
The  half-breed  Napo  interpreter.        -         -         -     193 

CHAPTER  XIV 
The  Valley   of   Tarapota   the    Garden   of   the    Gods. 
Climate  and  Products.     Opportunities  and  the  dis- 
advantages of  Immigration.     Rubber  gathering  in 
forest   and   farming   in   valleys.      The   Missionary 
question.  __-_-__     207 


CHAPTER  XV 
Continuing  the  journey  on  mules.  A  first  experience 
with  Guirapa.  An  Amazonian  forest  fire.  Mud 
architecture  resembling  that  of  Egypt.  No  window 
glass  or  doors.  A  living  grave  yard,  for  con- 
sumptives.           -         -222 

CHAPTER  XVI 
A  fracas  with  drunken  Indians.  Chenoa  the  Balsa.  A 
Night  of  Horror.  Crossing  the  Mayo,  one  horse 
drowned.  Tabalosa  village  in  festa.  Diplomacy 
and  passport  through  the  village.  Official  auto- 
graphs secured  all  along  the  route.  -         -         -     237 

CHAPTER  XVII 
The  Andes — Three  distinct  ranges.  Five  days'  tramp 
over  the  first  or  Easterly  Chain,  en  route  to  the 
haven  of  Moyabamba.  A  rough  trail.  Indian 
boys.  Moonlight  on  the  Andes.  The  land  of 
Flowers,  Birds  and  Butterflies.  Arrival  at  the 
Haven  of  rest. 252 

CHAPTER  XVIII 
Moyabamba  valley  and  town.     The  Land  of  To-Morrow. 
A  conception  of  an  ideal  life.     Part  of  the  original 
Garden  of  Eden. 272 

CHAPTER  XIX 
An  Amazonian  Arcadia.  Calling  things  by  the  right 
name.  Senoritas  and  Senoritas — Caste  distinc- 
tions. No  love  of  gold.  Inez,  and  her  Grand- 
mother decide  to  accompany  the  traveller  out  into 
the  world. -         -  296 

CHAPTER  XX 
Homeward  bound  by  the  Pacific.     Farewell  to  Arcadia. 
The  Napo  interprets  for  himself.     Different  tribes 
of  Indians  along  the  route.     A  Night  on  the  Andes 
never  to  be  forgotten.    The  little  Inca  in  tears,  307 

Yi 


CHAPTER  XXI 

Scaling  the  Central  Andes  on  Mules.  The  way  of  the 
transgressor.  Looking  backward.  A  last  view  of 
the  Paradise  from  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
Precipitous  descent  Into  the  valley.  Camping  in 
the  Tambo  at  night.  Westward  ho  and  always 
upward.  Cold  rains  above  vegetation.  The  stone 
houses  or  huts  for  refuge  of  travellers.    -         -         320 

CHAPTER  XXII 
Three  miles  above  the  Earth  on  a  mule.  Suggestions 
for  Scientific  research.  Mountain  sickness  or  Sor- 
roche.  Indians  and  Mules  compared.  Rainy  and 
la  wet  trail.  The  Land  of  Orchids.  The  Cross  on 
the  Andes. 333 

CHAPTER  XXIII 

Cha-cha-poyas,  the  half  way  town  between  the  Amazon 
and  the  Pacific.  The  Northwest  of  Amazonia. 
Wheat  growing  and  cattle  raising.  The  Cuyahupa- 
nas  trail  to  the  Pongo  Mansieriche  and  the  gold 
mines.  Dr.  Albernoz — Padre  Visorlot.  The  anni- 
versary banquet.    -         -         -         -         -         -         346 

CHAPTER  XXIV 
Farewell  to  Inez.     A  misunderstanding  with  the  Pre- 

fecto.     Rough  Riding  above  the  rain  clouds.  359 

CHAPTER  XXV 
Cajamarca,  the  ancient  City  of  Peru.    Prescott's  history 
and  the  story  of  tradition.     The  Inca  King's  Baths. 
Modern  Society  in  the  old  town.     The  last  of  the 
Andes. 369 

CHAPTER  XXVI 
On  the  Pacific  Coast.     A  Comparison  with  the  Land  of 
To-morrow.    The  first  news  from  the  outside  world 
in  eleven  months.    Lima  vs.  Para.    The  return.         389 

Yii 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Pen  and  ink  sketches  by  Miss  Ruth  Sypherd  Clements  and 
photographs  by  the  author. 

No. 

1.  A  20TH  Century  Traveller  in  Peru Frontispiece 

2.  View  on  the  Amazon  Near  the  Mouth  ..Facing  Page  24 

3.  Para  From  the  Anchorage "  "  26 

4.  Milk  Delivery  in  Para  "  35 

5.  Estrada  San  Jose— Royal  Palms Facing  "  40 

6.  Indians  Coagulating  Rubber  in  the  Forest      "  "  46 

7.  An  Amazon  Steamboat  "  "  60 

8.  The  Harbor  of  Manaos  "  "  74 

9.  The  Juan  Alfredo  Landing,  Luzia  "  "  82 

10.  Home  of  the  Exiles  on  the  Frontier "  "  94 

11.  The   Prefect's   Palace,   Iquitos    "  105 

12.  A  Street  in  Iquitos "  115 

13.  Scene  Near  the  First  Spanish  Settlement 

at  Borgo  Facing  "  130 

14.  Yurrimaguas— Don  Juan's  Home  "  i39 

15.  Canoeing  on  the  Upper  Amazon "  149 

16.  Scene  on  the  Upper  Amazon Facing  "  154 

17.  A    Banana    Plantation    on    the    Upper 

Amazon   "  167 

18.  Sick  in  the  Tarapota  Hammock  "  202 

19.  Caucho  Gatherers  in  Peru  "  215 

20.  A  Bird  of   Paradise    "  268 

21.  The  Bathing  Pool  at  Moyabamba  . . , Facing  "  270 

22.  Early  Coffee— Siesta  "  279 

23.  Moyabamba  Girls  Carrying  Water  Facing  "  290 

24.  Ferry  in  Balsa  on  the  Rio  Maya "  "  312 

25.  Indian  Huts  on  the  Andes  "  328 

26.  Scaling  the  Andes  on  Mules  Facing  "  336 

27.  The  Cross  on  the  Andes  "  345 

28.  Cajamarca  Water  Girls  "  37i 

29.  The  Oldest  Cathedral  of  South  America.  .  Facing  "  376 

30.  Rough  Riding  Over  the  Last  Andes  "  391 


INTRODUCTORY. 


form,     would 
no     pretense 
merit    may 
due    to    the 


FOREWORD. 

HE  writer  begs  leave  to  offer  in  these 
*' Words  before  the  Beginning"  an 
apology  or  an  explanation  of  this  al- 
leged book,  **The  Land  of  To-Mor- 
row/* 

One  who  has  no  love  for  the 
personal  pronoun,  which  seems  to 
be  inseparable  from  the  narrative 
remind  any  reader  that  there  is 
to  literary  embellishment;  if  any 
be  discovered  in  these  pages  it  is 
fact  that  it  is  an  effort  to  give  an 
unassuming  and  a  truthful  narrative  of  the  somewhat 
unusual  experience  of  an  American  Consul  and  news- 
paper man  during  an  exploration  of  the  interior  of 
Equatorial  America  written  without  any  typewriter 
gymnastics  by  one  who  claims  to  be  a  *  *  writer, ' '  rather 
than  an  author,  the  difference  (as  I  understand  it)  be- 
ing that  the  former  describes  onlj^  those  things  he  has 
seen,  or  experienced,  while  an  author  is  permitted  to 
invent  interesting  stories.  Some  of  the  ** well-known'* 
correspondents  write  interesting  letters  to  press  syndi- 
cates from  their  desks  in  Washington  dating  them  all 
around  the  world. 

This  journey  by  canoeing  on  the  affluents  of  the 
upper  or  alto  Amazon  and  "rough  riding"  over  the 


^c-Zil'Ip/lTHJijAKD  OF  TO-MORROW 

Andes  (frequently  three  miles  above  the  sea  on  a  mule) 
was  undertaken  in  the  interests  of  research  for  new 
rubber  territory  immediately  following  the  writer's 
Consular  agitation  of  the  impending  destruction  of  the 
natural  sources  of  the  lower  Amazon. 

It  is  proper  to  state,  this  investigation  of  the  grow- 
ing rubber  industry  was  instigated  by  Secretary  Blaine 
in  the  interest  of  rubber  for  insulation  for  this  electric 
age,  and  in  its  relation  to  reciprocity,  the  writer  being 
recognized  as  an  Associated  Press  telegrapher  and  a 
practical  electrician,  interested  in  the  subject. 

A  number  of  valuable  and  interesting  books  on  the 
Amazon  may  be  found  in  the  libraries,  a  majority  of 
which  are  in  the  rather  heavy  styles  of  the  scientist,  or 
the  bug-hunter  and  butterfly-chasers,  as  naturalists  are 
called,  or  perhaps  the  stories  of  early  Jesuit  mission- 
aries along  with  some  bulky  official  reports  supple- 
mented by  **  bulletins '  *  of  the  Pan-American  ring  or 
the  Bureau  of  American  Republics. 

Voluminous  books  have  also  been  issued  by  the 
numerous  literary  tourists,  most  of  whom  confine  their 
observations  to  the  decks  of  the  steamers  that  sail 
around  the  coast,  visiting  the  various  cities. 

Some  of  the  coast  combers  who  attempt  to  describe 
all  of  South  America  in  one  book  usually  make  such 
palpable  errors,  even  in  their  geography,  that  their 
books  are  discredited.  The  writer,  who  enjoyed  an 
official  .residence  as  Consul,  with  subsequent  extensive 
travel  in  interiors,  is  free  to  say  he  finds  it  quite  diffi- 
cult to  describe  in  two  volumes  that  section  known  as 
** Amazonia,"  or  the  ''Land  of  To-Morrow."* 
♦"An  American  Consul  in  Amazonia." 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  CORRESPONDENCE        3 

During  the  eleven  months  of  this  trip  from  the  Atlan- 
tic to  the  Pacific  I  did  not  once  hear  from  the  outside 
world,  but  occasionally  availed  of  opportunities  to 
send  back  letters  by  the  Indian  post  carriers,  which 
were  published  in  Pittsburgh  and  Washington  papers. 

Some  extensive  semi-official  correspondence  with  the 
government  was  maintained  through  letters  addressed 
to  the  Hon.  Senator  Boise  Penrose,  of  my  State,  which 
were  promptly  forwarded  by  the  genial  secretary.  Col. 
Wesley  R.  Andrews,  to  the  State,  Agricultural  and  War 
Departments,  where  they  remain  on  file  as  records  to 
substantiate  this  personal  narrative. 

Perhaps  some  of  the  data  gathered  through  personal 
exploitation  in  the  field,  may  have  been  of  service  to 
the  scientists  of  the  departments,  in  the  making  up  of 
their  official  reports. 

I  would  like  to  add  also,  the  observation  that  an  ex- 
tensive experience  at  one's  own  expense — in  cash,  hard 
labor  and  loss  of  health — in  pioneering  an  enterprise  of 
acknowledged  merit  does  not  rate  high  with  the  United 
States  Civil  Service  Commission.  In  a  technical  exam- 
ination as  a  Tropical  Forester  this  actual  experience 
did  not  average  equal  to  that  of  a  young  high  school 
girl  who  turned  me  down  on* 'botany, "while  a  youthful 
Harvard  student,  who  had  never  seen  a  tropical  tree, 
rated  high  in  book  ''forestry."  Even  a  record  as  a 
veteran  in  two  wars  did  not  count  against  the  school 
examination. 

As  an  incident  relating  to  the  publication  of  this 
book  I  relate  the  following  story  of  my  old  boyhood 
friend  and  former  office  associate,  Mr.  Andrew  Car- 
negie,  known   all   over  the   world   as   a   provider   of 


4  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

libraries.  As  Mr.  Carnegie  was  pleased  with  a  pre- 
vious effort  C'The  Boy  Spy")  in  which  he  is  men- 
tioned, I  appealed  to  him  for  his  assistance  in  publish- 
ing **The  Land  of  To-Morrow."  Mr.  Carnegie,  who 
makes  some  pretense  to  literary  ability  (and  is  able  to 
get  his  books  printed),  expressed  the  opinion  that  every 
book  should  be  able  to  pay  its  own  way.  I  made  a 
personal  business  offer  to  Mr.  Carnegie,  to  give  one 
of  these  books  to  each  of  his  numerous  libraries  in 
exchange  for  his  cash  guarantee  to  the  same  amount 
to  my  publisher,  to  which  he  laughingly  replied,  as  he 
assented : 

*'Why,  Jo,  what's  the  use  in  writing  books  unless 
you  can  make  some  money  out  of  it?" 

As  a  rule,  the  first  question  of  our  American 
official  and  scientific  people  to  whom  I  have  talked  on 
the  rubber  exploitation  is:  *'Is  there  any  money  in 
it,  or  chance  for  business  down  there?"  This  book 
answers  the  question. 

On  the  other  side  the  English  public  men  give  more 
consideration  to  scientific  or  geographical  features. 
"When  in  London  en  route  home  from  an  exploration  of 
the  Amazon  bagin  in  Peru  involving  1,000  miles  of 
canoeing  down  the  rapids  of  the  canyons  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras, in  which  it  was  incidentally  developed  that 
I  had  probably  located  a  new  source  of  the  Amazon, 
making  the  river  the  longest  in  the  world,  I  was  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  Henry  White,  secretary  of  the  United 
States  Embassy,  to  Sir  Clement  Markham,  chairman  of 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  In  conversation  with 
Sir  Clement  Markham  it  was  suggested  I  submit  a 
** paper"  to  the  society,  as  I  had  incidentally  men- 


KOYAL   GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY  5 

tioned  that  the  real  source  of  the  Amazon  was  in  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Andes  or  in  the  clouds.  It 
was  further  explained  that  in  following  the  Inca  trail 
from  Lake  Titicaca,  in  Bolivia  and  Peru,  towards 
Cuzcu,  en  route  to  the  head  of  canoe  navigation  at  a 
''divide"  of  the  co'ast  range  at  an  altitude  of  14,000 
feet,  a  little  lakelet,  scarcely  an  acre  in  area,  was  dis- 
covered, supplied  by  the  melting  snow  from  the 
adjacent  mountains  peaks  (18,000  feet)  during  the 
few  hours  of  the  mid-day  sun. 

One  outlet  flows  backward  to  Lake  Titicaca  and 
Pacific.  The  other  outlet  runs  northeasterly,  forming 
the  Rivers  Vilcanote,  Urubamba,  Ucayali  and  Amazon. 

At  this  source  the  writer  was  able  to  step  across  the 
Amazon,  which  was  followed  down  the  stream  on  foot 
or  canoe  and  boat  for  about  5,000  miles  to  the  Con- 
sulate, near  the  mouth,  where  it  is  138  miles  wide, 
including  the  upper  and  lower  outlet,  and  the  Island  of 
Mara  jo,  which  separates  them. 

In  this  journey  was  found  unlimited  natural  wealth 
in  the  forests  of  rubber,  gutta-percha,  dye  woods  and 
material  for  materia  medica,  as  well  as  hides,  nuts 
and  unlimited  adventure.  Believing  this  material  de- 
velopment would  interest  the  English  people,  I  elabor- 
ated these  commercial  features  in  my  paper,  only  inci- 
dentally relating  the  geographical  subject. 

In  a  few  days  I  received  a  note  to  call  at  Burlington 
Gardens.  Sir  Clement,  in  the  most  agreeable  manner, 
handed  me  the  paper  I  had  submitted,  remarking : 
"Very  clever,  indeed,  very;  we  should  be  glad  to  use 
it  if  you  could  find  yourself  able  to  eliminate  every- 
thing   pertaining    to    business    or    to    trade."     They 


6  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

wished  only  to  hear  of  the  scientific  or  geographic 
points.  In  complying  with  this  suggestion  I  felt  as 
if  it  were  cutting  the  heart  out  of  my  paper,  which 
they  accepted  and  printed  to  the  credit  of  the 
American  newspaper  man  in  one  of  the  volumes  of 
the  society. 

It  was  suggested  the  writer  was  entitled  to  the  hind 
initials  of  F.  R.  G.  S.,  but  the  sad  fact  that  the 
initiation  fee  was  £25  with  annual  dues  of  £5,  or 
$25.00,  at  the  time  prevented. 

At  this  time  there  was  very  considerable  agitation 
of  South  American  enterprises  through  the  Pan- 
American  Congress  which  resulted  in  the  formation  in 
Washington  of  the  existing  "Bureau  of  American  Re- 
publics," devoted  to  the  interests  of  closer  trade  and 
transportations  between  North  and  South  America. 

The  United  States  Rubber  combine  officials,  who  had 
been  enjoying  a  monopoly  of  the  great  rubber  industry, 
in  a  quiet  way,  through  which  large  fort  tines  were 
being  made,  became  interested  in  the  Congress,  exert- 
ing a  strong  influence  in  the  appointment  of  oflicials. 
It  may  be  said  the  combine  were  not  desirous  of  having 
their  rubber  bonanza  ventilated  through  Consular 
reports  or  newspapers  that  might  attract  competition 
and  boom  reciprocity. 

By  the  way,  the  existence  of  this,  the  greatest  of 
all  trusts,  known  as  the  United  States  Rubber  Trust, 
offers  proof  that  the  ''tariff  is  not  the  mother  of 
trusts,"  as  rubber  is  admitted  free  of  duty. 

On  learning  that  the  agents  of  this  Pan-American 
ring  had  access  to  Consular  reports  before  they  were 
offered  to  the  public,  and  only  used  such  portion  as 


OFFICIAL  CORRESPONDENCE  7 

suited  their  purpose,  and  remembering  Blaine's  words 
that  my  endorsements  as  a  newspaper  man  had  se- 
cured the  appointment  as  Consul  rather  than  other 
influence,  I  inaugurated  a  press  correspondence  with 
a  syndicate  covering  several  cities,  including  Wash- 
ington. The  purpose  was  to  make  use  of  this  narra- 
tive of  personal  experience  and  observation  to  convey 
to  the  public  the  facts  that  had  been  previously  sub- 
mitted in  Consular  reports  that  were  not  considered 
by  the  **ring"  as  available  for  public.  It  was  in- 
tended to  use  the  matter  over  the  nom  de  plume 
**0.  K.,"  but  some  of  the  editors,  thinking,  no  doubt, 
to  add  interest,  captioned  it  as  **  Consular  Correspon- 
dence," etc. 

In  due  time  the  Consul  received  some  very  courteous 
letters  from  the  officials  of  the  State  Department, 
written  on  exceedingly  stiff  paper,  officially  sealed  in 
blue  envelopes,  stating  that  the  ** press  throughout  the 
country  were  printing  letters  from  the  Consul  at  Para," 
politely  inviting  attention  to  certain  paragraphs  of 
the  Consular  bible  prohibiting  Consuls  from  public 
correspondence  extjept  in  matters  of  a  **  purely  literary 
character." 

Taking  refuge  behind  this  exception  and  not  desir- 
ing to  remain  as  Consul,  as  the  salary  was  inadequate 
and  living  expensive,  the  regulations  prohibited  en- 
gaging in  any  sort  of  business,  the  press  correspon- 
dence was  continued,  comprising  some  rather  *'hot 
stuff,"  as  one  of  the  editors  suggested,  from  a  hot 
climate,  which  I  hoped  would  have  the  desired  effect 
of  hastening  the  relief  asked  in  order  that  I  might 
make  this  proposed  exploitation  up  the  Upper  Amazon. 


THE  LAND  OP  TO-MORROW 

availed  of  the  public  criticism  of  their 
methods  and  also  influenced  some  of  the  *'gang"  at 
Para  to  protest  officially,  ostensibly  because  of  the 
official  exposure  of  leprosy  and  yellow  fever,  but  really 
to  protect  their  bad  business  methods. 

One  Sunday  afternoon  while  enjoying  a  siesta  in  my 
hammock  I  was  handed  a  cable,  which  had  come  out 
via  Europe  to  Portugal,  thence  to  Maderia  Islands,  to 
Rio  de  Janerio  and  up  2,000  miles  of  Brazilian  coast 
to  Para,   reading: 

**You  are  prohibited  from  press  correspondence; 
further  disregard  of  instructions  not  tolerated. '^ 

This  was  signed  by  an  Assistant  Secretary  of  State, 
whom  I  knew  Blaine  despised,  and  understanding  that 
Blaine  was  ill  and  recalling  that  the  Secretary  was  my 
friend,  who  had  suggested  this  press  correspondence  as 
a  means  of  educating  our  people  about  that  little- 
known  region,  and  realizing  that  the  rebuke  was  prob- 
ably provoked  by  a  recent  contribution  humorously 
criticizing  the  Pan-American  Railroad  paralleling  the 
Andes  and  bridging  the  Amazon  flood  plains  and  not 
competing  in  time  with  slow  ships,  etc.,  I  laughed,  and 
after  another  ''vermouth,"  answered  by  asking  for 
relief. 

This  did  not  come,  however,  for  some  months,  when, 
sick  from  fevers,  I  was  carried  aboard  ship  in  a  ham- 
mock, sailing  to  the  Maderia  Islands  for  recovery, 
returning  to  the  United  States  via  Europe  a  month  or 
two  later. 

That  forbidden  correspondence,  with  other  sup- 
pressed matter,  is  included  in  a  narrative  of  Consular 
experience,  which  it  was  thought  not  politic  to  publish 


HOPES  DEFERRED  9 

at  the  time,  because  of  political  and  personal  interests.* 

In  a  few  months  I  returned  to  the  Amazon,  under- 
taking the  pursuit  of  information  and  adventure, 
ascending  the  Amazon  to  the  head  of  steam  naviga- 
tion, beyond  civilization,  in  Peru,  some  3,000  miles; 
thence  exploiting  numerous  affluents  in  canoes  with 
only  Indian  paddlers  for  companions,  reaching  to  the 
foothills  of  the  Andes,  known  as  the  Cordilleras,  get- 
ting so  far  into  the  interior  and  so  far  from  the  starting 
point  that  it  was  concluded  to  go  beyond  and  continue 
the  research  for  gutta-percha  and  other  products  of 
the  altitudes  while  crossing  the  continent  to  the  Pacific. 

At  the  time  of  starting  on  a  first  trip  it  was  ex- 
pected Blaine  would  become  the  nominee  of  the  party 
for  President,  in  which  case  I  concluded  my  services 
and  experience  would  entitle  me  to  an  appointment  as 
a  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and  Ambassador  Extraor- 
dinary to  one  of  the  South  American  Republics  located 
on  the  other  side. 

I  did  some  ** rough  riding"  over  the  Andes,  some- 
times at  an  altitude  of  **  three  miles  above  the  earth  on 
a  mule,"  buoyed  by  the  prospect  of  ** recognition, " 
but  when  I  reached  the  Pacific  the  first  news  I  had 
was:  ** Blaine  is  dead.  Cleveland  is  President,"  and 
I  realized  that  I  was  out  of  a  job  5,000  miles  from  home, 
and  not  a  d cent. 

Remembering  the  last  words  of  my  friend,  Andy 
Carnegie,  who,  in  bidding  me  "good-bye,"  said,  in  his 
cheery  way:  **  Well,  Jo,  if  you  get  strapped  down  there, 
draw  on  me." 

•"O,  Consul  Americano  Na  Amazonas" — which  Is  now 
being  published. 


10  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

I  did  draw  through  the  Consul  at  Callao,  near 
Lima,  but  this  added  to  my  further  embarrassment,  as 
Mr.  Carnegie  was  at  Skibo,  in  Scotland,  and  my  draft 
came  back  unpaid. 

This  narrative  tells  the  true  story. 

I  had  been  discouraged  in  some  efforts  to  publish 
this  experience  and  was  disposed  to  abandon  the  effort 
when  I  met  with  some  kindly  encouragement  which 
resulted  in  resurrecting  the  manuscript  in  which  it 
was  difficult  to  again  become  interested,  which  fact 
will  account  for  the  many  errors,  indicating  a  lack  of 
proper  revision. 

To  Mr.  R.  A.  Franks,  the  courteous  treasurer  and 
confidential  business  man  of  Mr.  Carnegie,  I  am  glad 
to  record  my  obligations  for  favors  received.  Miss 
*'A.  L.  S.,^'  of  Congressional  Library,  for  suggestions, 
revision  and  kindly  encouragement,  as  also  to  the 
youthful  Virginia  artist,  Miss  Ruth  Sypherd  Clements, 
for  illustrations. 


CHAPTER!. 

MAZONIA  is  called  **La  Tierra  de 
Manana,'*  The  Land  of  To-Morrow,  in 
the  double  sense,  that  it  is  a  region 
wholly  undeveloped;  the  rather  indis- 
criminately mixed,  Spanish,  Portuguese, 
African  and  Indian  population,  never 
doing  to-day  that  which  may  be  at- 
^  tempted  to-morrow,  and  "Manana'*  is 

looked  forward  to  as  the  coming  day  that  will  bring 
the  Anglo  Saxon  to  develop  the  rich  and  beautiful  val- 
leys that  are  so  productive  of  life  in  its  various  forms. 

The  area  of  that  portion  of  South  America,  known  as 
Amazonia,  is  greater  in  extent  than  the  entire  valleys 
of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  combined.  It  stretches 
3,000  miles  due  west  almost  under  the  Equator,  and 
extends  several  degrees  both  North  and  South  latitude. 
Through  this  vast  expanse  of  country,  from  the  Andes 
to  the  Atlantic,  flows  unceasingly  the  mighty  waters  of 
the  Amazon. 

On  account  of  the  wonderful  natural  products  and 
the  agricultural  possibilities  of  this  immense  area, 
Amazonia  may  be  compared  to  our  great  West;  while 
for  the  value  of  its  unexplored  forests  of  India  rubber 
and  other  indigenous  products,  as  well  as  for  the  rich- 
ness of  the  gold  and  silver,  deposits  of  the  Cordilleras 
at  the  head  waters,  it  may  also  be  appropriately  called 
**The  California  of  South  America." 

Though  discovered  less  than  ten  years  after  our  own 
11 


12  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

country  this  vast  region  of  perpetual  summer  is  more 
thinly  populated  than  the  frozen  lands  of  the  Artie. 

As  the  ships  sail,  the  Amazon  is  as  near  Washington 
as  to  the  capital  of  Brazil  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

The  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  is  **0,'* 
being  directly  under  the  Equator,  and  the  longitude  is 
considerably  to  the  east  of  Washington.  A  north  and 
south  line  along  the  east  coast  of  North  America,  from 
New  York  will  pass  through  the  Isthmus  of  Panama, 
and  along  the  west  coast  of  South  America. 

The  northern  coast  line  of  Brazil,  for  over  three 
degrees  runs  almost  due  east  and  west,  forming  a  front 
facing  the  north,  a  thousand  miles  above  which  the 
Amazon  enters  the  Atlantic.  This  natural  coast  con- 
formation seems  to  make  the  great  river  closer  to  us, 
and  the  tremendous  volume  of  water  uniting  with  the 
African  Equatorial  current,  forming  the  gulf  stream, 
invites  the  trade,  which  it  is  said,  always  follows  the 
transportation. 

It  would  appear  that  steamships  from  southern  ports 
like  New  Orleans,  Mobile,  or  South  Florida,  would  not 
only  serve  to  promote  reciprocity  in  trade,  but  result 
in  establishing  friendly  relations  that  would  be  of  great 
advantage  to  the  West  and  South. 

Steamship  and  barge  transportation  would  not  only 
shorten  the  distance,  but  connect  the  two  greatest 
rivers  of  the  earth,  thus  uniting  the  Mississippi  and 
Amazon  Valley  by  direct  lines  of  steamers. 

The  Amazon  basin  produces  those  standard  articles, 
rubber,  cacao,  coffee,  sugar,  roots,  plants  and  barks, 
required  for  the  **  materia  medica,"  which  we  cannot 
grow  in  our  latitude ;  but  all  of  which  are  necessary  for 


THE  AMAZON  AND  MISSISSIPPI  13 

civilized  life,  and  for  which  we  pay  hundreds  of  mil- 
lions of  gold  annually. 

The  Mississippi  and  Ohio  Valleys  can  supply  in 
abundance  those  articles  that  cannot  be  produced  in 
Amazonia,  and  for  which  the  natives  must  depend  on 
other  countries,  in  the  temperate  zone;  namely,  flour, 
bacon,  lard,  canned  meats,  hardware,  tools,  machinery, 
and  especially  coal  for  fuel  and  our  kerosene  for 
lighting  that   dark   continent. 

Certainly  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valleys  might  ex- 
change their  products  cheaper  and  quicker  by  the 
rivers  to  New  Orleans  or  Mobile,  than  by  rail  to  New 
York,  there  to  be  re-shipped  to  steamers  and  thence 
double  back  or  parallel  the  river  by  sailing  along  the 
dangerous  coast  past  the  latitude  of  New  Orleans  to 
reach  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon. 

There  are  two  steamship  lines  plying  between  New 
York  and  the  Amazon,  both  of  which  belong  to  English 
companies  that  have  been  exclusively  in  this  trade  for 
forty  years,  each  of  these  lines  has  steamers  sailing 
weekly  from  New  York  and  Liverpool.  First  class 
cabin  fare  to  the  Amazon  is  about  $100.00,  making  the 
voyage  in  about  fifteen  daj^s. 

One  may  sail  from  the  Brooklyn  wharves  in  the  one 
steamer  nearly  3,000  miles  up  the  Amazon  at  an  addi- 
tional cost  of  another  $100.00,  enabling  the  tourist  to 
make  himself  comfortable,  in  the  same  berth,  without 
change,  via  Para,  and  Manaos  in  the  Brazils  to  Iquitos 
in  Peru.  The  time  would  be  about  forty  days,  includ- 
ing the  usual  stops  at  Para  and  Manaos,  which  admits 
of  visiting  those  places  without  expense. 

Contracts  may  be  made  for  special  rates.    The  ships 


'14  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

are  not  ** tramps/'  but  regular  boats,  adapted,  for 
heavy  cargo  rather  than  light  passenger  traffic,  with 
accommodations  depending  somewhat  on  the  ship 
selected,  but  more  especially  on  the  captain. 

Some  of  the  ships  stop  for  coal  at  St.  Thomas  and 
call  at  Martinique  and  Barbadoes  to  deliver  and  take 
on  mail  for  the  Amazon. 

In  addition  to  the  lines  to  the  United  States,  there 
are  weekly  steamers  from  the  Upper  Amazon  to 
Europe  via  Maderia  Islands  to  Lisbon,  Havre,  Ger- 
many, as  well  as  Liverpool,  while  the  government  of 
Brazil  maintains  the  Lloyd  Brosileiro,  a  regular  line  of 
elegant  steamers,  which  come  up  the  coast  from  Rio  de 
Janeiro  to  Bahia,  Pernambuco,  ascending  the  Amazon 
to  Manaos  and  Iquitos. 

On  a  former  voyage,  when  I  was  one  of  a  number  of 
passengers  on  an  American  steamer  sailing  from  New- 
port News,  Va.,  where  we  took  on  sufficient  coal  to  last 
the  6,000  mile  voyage  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  also  storing 
thousands  of  packages  of  flour,  lard  and  bacon  from 
the  acres  of  freight  piled  in  the  warehouse  of  the 
Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railroad. 

The  large  number  of  missionaries  on  the  passenger 
list  and  the  absence  of  business  people,  created  the 
impression  that  we  were  bound,  with  our  cargo  of  pro- 
visions for  a  heathen  land. 

On  the  second  day  out,  the  gulf  stream  was  crossed, 
when  most  of  the  passengers  were  called  upon  to  pay 
tribute  to  old  Neptune.  In  a  couple  of  days  more  the 
island  of  St.  Thomas  is  seen  looming  up  in  the  dis- 
tance like  barren  mountain  tops  above  a  deluge.  The 
sight  revives  the  sick  who  are  overjoyed  at  beholding 


ST.  THOMAS— MARTINIQUE  15 

dry  land  once  more,  however  forlorn  and  unattractive 
it  appears.    Porto  Rico  appears  in  the  western  horizon. 

The  entrance  to  St.  Thomas  harbor  is  through  a  nar- 
row winding  channel,  that  seemingly  leads  into  what 
might  have  been  before  the  flood,  the  crater  of  an  im- 
mense volcano.  The  anchorage  is  surrounded  by  pre- 
cipitous mountains;  the  situation  of  the  ship,  reminds 
one  of  the  Ark  on  Mount  Arraratt. 

The  odd  looking  town  on  the  hill-side  appeared  to 
be  on  end  with  the  houses  on  top  of  one  another, 
after  the  manner  of  Japanese  perspective.  There  are 
only  a  couple  of  narrow  streets.  When  a  tidal  wave 
comes. along,  during  the  season  of  cyclones,  they  say 
the  sea  rushing  through  the  funnel-like  channel,  causing 
the  water  to  rise  suddenly  to  a  great  height  when  the 
ships  in  the  harbor  drag  their  anchors  sailing  up  one 
street  and  down  the  other,  on  top  of  the  wave. 

For  over  two  centuries,  St.  Thomas  has  been  a 
Danish  province,  which  that  Government,  at  an  annual 
expense  of  $150,000  beyond  its  revenue,  holds  as  a 
sort  of  Botany  Bay  for  their  officials.  It  is  termed  a 
free  port,  or  a  two  and  a  half  per  cent  place,  because 
all  duties  are  levied  at  that  figure.  Its  principal  pro- 
ducts are  bay  rum  and  cyclones,  and  its  chief  export 
is  yellow  fever. 

Twenty  hours  from  St.  Thomas  the  ship  glides 
alongside  the  most  beautiful  spot  in  the  West  Indies, 
the  island  of  Martinique.  From  the  anchorage  in  the 
harbor  of  St.  Pierre,  since  destroyed  by  the  volcano, 
we  were  entertained  by  the  wonderful  diving  feats  of 
the  native  boys,  whose  gyrations  could  be  seen  far 
into  the  depths  of  the  clear  blue  water. 


16  THE   LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  appearance  of  the  straggling  town  nestling  in 
the  tropical  foliage  under  the  shadow  of  the  green 
hills  was  quite  attractive.  Our  stay  was  too  limited 
to  permit  going  ashore,  but  we  were  close  enough  to 
see  people  moving  around  in  their  picturesque  dress, 
and  since  the  terrible  catastrophe,  I  recall  hearing  the 
bells  of  the  St.  Pierre  churches,  which  we  were  told 
were  called  ''the  passing  bells,''  giving  notice  of  a 
death  or  a  funeral. 

A  monument  on  one  of  the  hill  tops  was  pointed  out 
as  marking  the  birth  place  of  the  Empress  Josephine. 

A  graphic  description  of  the  picturesque  island  is 
given  by  Bigelow  in  his  ''Canoeing  Around  Mar- 
tinique." 

After  another  day's  quiet  sailing  amongst  the 
islands,  another  coming  in  view  when  we  lose  sight  of  the 
last,  which  relieves  the  monotony  of  the  ordinary  sea 
voyage,  we  anchor  in  the  open  roadstead  of  Barbados, 
one  of  the  most  interesting  as  well  as  important  pos- 
sessions of  the  English  government  in  the  "West  Indies. 
This  island  is  said  to  be  the  most  thickly  populated 
portion  of  the  earth 's  surface,  from  which  it  is  inferred 
that  it  is  healthful.  It  is  patronized  by  a  class  of  Eng- 
lish that  find  genial  society  in  the  officers  of  the 
British  army,  whose  headquarters  are  there.  Accom- 
modations for  visitors  are  provided  by  the  large  Marine 
Hotel,  which  looks  from  the  anchorage  like  an  immense 
hospital  or  quarantine  building.  At  this  port  the 
tourist  will  begin  to  collect  curios,  in  the  form  of 
articles  made  by  the  natives  from  coral,  sea  grass,  etc. 
The  most  beautiful  are  the  ornaments  made  from  fish 
scales. 


BARBADOS  THE  DISTRIBUTING  POINT      17 

The  elegant  ships  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steamship  Com- 
pany make  this  their  port  of  call  and  distribution  for 
all  the  West  Indies,  Central  America  and  the  Isthmus, 
as  well  as  making  connections  with  steamers  of  other 
lines  reaching  to  North  and  South  America.  Unlike  St. 
Thomas  and  Martinique,  the  topography  of  Barbadoes 
is  flat,  and  English  being  spoken,  the  American  feels 
a  little  more  at  home  than  in  the  French  or  Danish 
islands. 

It  is  but  a  day's  sail  from  Barbados  to  Trinidad 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco,  and  about  four  days  to 
the  Amazon.  Because  of  the  position  of  Barbados, 
as  the  ** windward"  is  land,  there  is  some  irregularity 
in  ships  bound  south  from  New  York  calling.  All  of 
these  islands  would,  however,  be  in  the  track  of  a  line 
sailing  from  New  Orleans  or  Mobile  to  North  Brazil 
and  the  Amazon. 

Relatively  it  is  as  much  out  of  the  course  of  a  ship 
from  Rio  de  Janeiro  or  the  Argentine  to  New  York, 
or  vice-versa,  to  call  at  Para  on  the  Amazon,  as  it 
would  be  for  the  same  ship  to  go  into  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  and  ascend  the  Mississippi  to  New  Orleans, 
both  cities  being  about  one  hundred  miles  above  the 
mouths  of  the  respective  rivers. 

The  requirements  of  the  Amazon  trade  being  entirely 
distinct  from  that  of  South  Brazil  and  the  Argentines, 
as  well  as  for  geographical  reasons,  demand  an  inde- 
pendent service. 

Formerly  the  ships  of  the  American  line  made  calls 
at  Barbados  and  Para,  the  latter  being  the  half  way 
stop  enroute  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  each  voyage  of  6,000 
miles  from  New  York,  including  the  3,000  miles  of 


18  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Brazilian  coasting  trade  occupying  over  thirty  days  of 
tedious  service. 

The  attempt  to  cover  so  much  of  the  southern  terri- 
tory with  four  slow  ships  may  account  in  part  for  the 
failure  of  the  American  enterprise.  The  Americans  were 
charged  with  extravagant  management  on  shore,  but 
they  were  certainly  economical  at  sea,  especially  in 
the  consumption  of  coal  at  the  expense  of  a  great 
waste  of  time. 

The  Brazilieros  were  partial  to  the  American  line, 
the  Stars  and  Stripes  being  always  cordially  greeted 
on  the  Amazon. 

There  has  always  been  more  than  sufficient  business 
from  the  Amazon  to  require  the  continuous  service  of 
the  ten  or  more  ships  of  the  two  English  lines,  fre- 
quently reinforced  by  the  chartering  of  tramp 
steamers. 

The  freight  rate  on  rubber  (which  next  to  bullion 
is  the  most  valuable  cargo  afloat),  from  Para  to  New 
York,  is  25c  and  5c  primage  per  cubic  foot,  equivalent 
to  about  one  cent  per  pound  on  the  most  valuable 
tropical  import,  next  to  sugar  and  coffee,  and  which 
is  admitted  free  of  duty  as  a  crude  material  but  on 
which  Brazil  exacts  an  export  duty  of  25  per  cent. 

Unlike  coffee  or  sugar  from  the  lower  provinces  of 
Brazil,  rubber  is  a  safe  cargo,  not  being  liable  to  dam- 
age in  transit,  while  delay  increases  its  value  through 
curing  by  evaporation. 

In  addition  to  the  freights  the  American  line  enjoyed 
the  advantages  of  a  subsidy  of  $6,000  for  each  round 
trip  from  the  Brazilian  government,  the  United  States 
only  paying  the  mail  contract,  it  was  said  their  net 


STEAMER  SUBVENTIONS  19 

profits  on  some  voyages  was  over  $20,000.  The  ships 
were  withdrawn  because  the  United  States  did  not 
grant  subsidies. 

Neither  of  the  English  companies  receive  any  ** sub- 
ventions'* as  the  English  call  subsidies,  from  the  home 
or  Brazilian  governments.  Each  company,  however, 
had  contracts  with  the  State  government  of  Amazonas, 
promising  to  pay  some  4,800  milreis  (a  nominal  sum  in 
English  money),  as  an  inducement  to  extend  their  ser- 
vice another  thousand  miles  up  the  Amazon  to  Manaos. 
For  this  they  were  required  to  perform  one  voyage  a 
month,  carrying  the  mail ;  three  tons  of  state  cargo  and 
three  first  and  six  second  class  governmental  passengers 
free,  on  each  voyage.  The  requirements  were  so  exact- 
ing and  the  penalties  so  severe,  the  steamship  owners 
did  not  hesitate  to  say  they  were  better  off  without 
subsidies. 

Substantially  the  same  conditions  were  required  of 
the  line  to  Liverpool,  but  it  was  found  to  be  so  unsat- 
isfactory that  the  English  companies  gave  up  the  sub- 
ventions. 

The  service  is  now  more  satisfactorily  performed  and 
it  has  been  extended  another  thousand  miles  further  up 
the  Amazon  to  Iquitos  in  Peru  without  subsidies. 
Ships  sail  regularly  from  New  York  and  Liverpool 
direct  to  ports  thousands  of  miles  up  the  Amazon. 

Probably  all  that  America  enjoys  in  the  way  of 
trade  to  the  Amazon  is  due  to  the  two  competing 
English  companies,  who  have  successfully  maintained 
the  regular  weekly  service  during  fifty  years,  from  the 
profits  on  freights  and  by  judicious  business  manage- 
ment. 


20  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

On  a  second  voyage  to  the  Amazon,  I  was  forturate 
in  securing  passage  with  Captain  John  Johnson,  of  the 
Booth  line,  on  the  steamer  *' Gregory, '*  sailing  from 
the  pier  at  Martin's  wharfs,  Brooklyn,  direct  to  Para, 
without  call. 

In  somewhat  extensive  travel,  over  many  seas,  and 
on  large  steamers,  I  have  not  had  as  pleasant  a  voy- 
age, as  during  the  fortnight  of  stormy  March,  that  I 
was  Captain  Johnson's  only  passenger  from  New  York 
to  the  Equator. 

With  Mr.  Jones,  the  first  officer,  we  made  a  compan- 
ionable trio,  promenading  the  rolling  deck  arm  in  arm, 
during  the  first  few  days  while  crossing  the  Gulf 
Stream  heading  eastwardly  instead  of  southerly,  in 
search  of  the  trade  winds  we  never  met,  though  we 
reached  well  into  the  Atlantic. 

Our  clever  young  English  captain  was  a  generous 
provider  of  the  good  things  from  his  abundant  stores, 
which  we  all  enjoyed,  while  seated  around  the  table, 
discussing  in  our  loneliness  the  girls  we  left  behind 
and  those  with  whom  we  hoped  to  renew  acquaintance 
on  reaching  port.  As  there  were  no  ladies  aboard,  we 
sometimes  sat  down  to  dinner  in  shirt  sleeves  and 
after  reaching  the  tropical  seas,  perhaps  took  our  early 
cafe  standing  in  pajamas,  after  the  manner  of  the  peo- 
ple to  whose  land  we  were  journeying. 

When  the  ship  reached  the  latitude,  which  the  cap- 
tain declared  was  marked  on  his  chart  ''coats  off,"  we 
obeyed  the  rule  and  shed  our  cold  weather  clothing. 
Mr.  Jones  rigged  his  awnings  aft,  under  which  were 
strung  the  large  and  comfortable  Cearense  hammocks 
in    which    we    rocked    in    the    cradle    of    the    deep. 


SOUTHERN  CROSS  AND  NORTH  STAR       21 

thoroughly  enjoying  the  dreamy  rest,  peculiar  to  the 
warm  days  and  pleasant  evenings  on  tropical  seas. 

The  weather  was  delightful,  the  sea  as  placid  as  a 
river,  while  our  good  ship's  bow,  pointing  to  the  south, 
glided  smoothly  towards  the  Equator.  Evening  by 
evening,  hour  by  hour,  we  watched  the  North  Star, 
gradually  setting  toward  the  horizon,  until  it  finally 
disappeared  below  the  dark  waters. 

We  turned  sadly,  as  from  the  past  to  the  future,  and 
looking  forward  and  upward,  in  the  direction  in  which 
we  were  sailing,  found  suspended  over  our  future 
horizon,  the  beautiful  Southern  Cross,  which  like  a 
rainbow  of  hope  and  promise  shown  like  a  gem 
through  the  darkness  of  a  tropical  night. 

The  captain  observed,  as  we  crossed  the  Equator,  that 
we  ** jumped"  over  the  line  without  causing  it  to 
vibrate  or  giving  the  ship  a  *'jar."  We  begin  to 
notice  a  changed  appearance  in  the  dark  blue  and 
almost  green  water  of  those  seas,  the  water  taking  on 
an  old  gold  color  streaked  with  the  blue. 

Sailing  over  this  sea,  gazing  into  the  blue  and  gold, 
that  occasionally  shows  bits  of  green  vegetation,  we 
strain  our  vision  towards  the  land  with  some  such 
sensations  as  must  have  come,  over  its  first  navigator, 
Vincent  Pincon,  the  Portuguese,  who  in  the  year  1500 
discovered  this  'Afresh  water  sea,"  and  while  still  out 
of  sight  of  land  filled  his  casks,  as  the  Brazilian 
steamers  now  do,  with  most  excellent  drinking  water. 
It  was  forty-one  years  later  that  the  Spaniard, 
Orellana,  drifted  down  the  mighty  stream  and  claimed 
the  Amazon  for  Spain, 

The  tremendous  currents  of  the  mightj^  river  for 


22  THE  LAND  OP  TO-MORROW 

ages  have  met  the  incoming  tides  of  the  Atlantic, 
renewing  the  struggle  daily,  for  the  mastery,  but 
always  ending  in  the  same  drawn  battle.  When  the 
tide  is  out  the  Amazon  is  victorious  for  a  few  hours, 
pouring  into  the  bosom  of  the  ocean  an  immense 
volume  of  yellow  water  and  depositing  the  sediment 
carried  down  from  the  Andes,  which  is  gradually  form- 
ing the  dangerous  bars  and  islands  that  may  yet  result 
in  advancing  permanently  these  engineering  lines, 
against  its  restless,  relentless,  antagonist,  extending 
this,  or  establishing  another  Continent. 

The  tremendous  volume  of  water,  emptying  into  the 
ocean  trending  to  the  north  marks  a  golden  channel 
in  the  blue  of  the  sea  that  is  easily  discernable  for 
two  hundred  miles. 

Is  it  not  possible  that  the  floods  from  the  mighty 
river  marking  the  line  of  the  Equator,  reaching  to  the 
gulf  stream  may  have  carried  the  germs  of  vegetable 
life  from  this  centre  of  the  earth  by  the  gulf  stream  to 
our  continent  and  to  Europe  ? 

Through  the  courtesy  of  the  captain,  I  spent  much 
of  my  time  on  the  bridge  with  himself  and  the  men  at 
the  wheel.  In  looking  through  his  glasses  one  morn- 
ing, in  the  direction  indicated  by  him,  I  could  barely 
distinguish  the  green  fringe  of  the  forests,  which  I 
knew  sprang  from  the  soil  of  another  Continent.  We 
saw  Brazil  again  and  were  thankful. 

We  sighted  the  pilot  boat  near  Salinas,  the  little 
settlement  of  fishermen,  below  the  lower  mouth  of 
the  Amazon;  the  little  dingy  dancing  over  the  waves, 
as  if  glad  to  see  us,  when  alongside,  looks  like  a  play- 
thing beside  our  big  hull. 


MOUTH  OF  THE  AMAZON  23 

The  swarthy  Portuguese  pilot  scrambled  up  the  rope 
ladder,  and  was  courteously  welcomed  on  board  by 
the  captain,  who  with  the  customary  formalities, 
turned  the  command  over  to  a  personage  that 
resembled  an  opera  bouffe  pirate,  who,  mounting  the 
bridge,  changed  the  course  due  west. 

We  crossed  the  Braganza  bar  cautiously,  entering 
the  Amazon  on  the  flood  tide  by  the  lower  delta, 
which  is  so  wide  that  it  was  difficult  to  realize  we 
were  not  yet  at  sea. 

The  bocco  or  mouth  of  the  river,  according  to  our 
captain,  who  measured  his  charts  for  me,  is  138  miles 
between  the  capes  Magouri  to  Cape  Del  Norte. 

The  island  of  Mara.io,  lying  between  the  upper  and 
lower  outlets,  is  a  small  continent  in  itself,  being  as 
large  as  Portugal,  the  country  of  its  discoverer. 

The  river  on  the  northern  side  of  this  truly  *' mys- 
terious" island  is  much  wider  than  the  lower  outlet, 
but  that  channel  is  not  used  for  navigation,  because 
it  is  practically  unknown  or  unsurveyed  and  dan- 
gerous. The  greater  volume  of  water  discharges  by 
the  northern  delta.  When  the  tide  and  current  join 
it  is  called  the  "meeting  of  the  waters,"  a  line  of  foam 
or  a  long  stretch  of  white  caps  marking  the  line  of 
contact,  a  small  boat  caught  on  its  crest  of  angry  water 
is  upturned  as  quickly  as  if  a  monster  of  the  sea  had 
risen  underneath  and  tipped  it  over. 

After  steaming  a  couple  of  hours  upon  the  lower 
delta,  which  is  used  entirely  for  navigation,  the  eager 
passengers  discover  here  and  there,  a  thatched  hut 
peeping  through  a  light  spot  in  the  dark  forest.  No 
land  is  really  in  sight  as  it  is  the  season  of  floods,  which 


24  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

covers  the  low  lands  bordering  the  river,  most  of  the 
houses  being  built  on  piles. 

Turning  out  of  the  main  stream,  into  one  of  the 
numerous  little  bays  or  bayous,  we  pass  some  higher 
ground,  on  which  is  located  the  suburban  resort  or 
Coney  Island  of  Para  called  Point  Pinheiro,  that  is 
wide  open  every  day  of  the  year  in  this  land  of  ever- 
lasting summer. 

As  we  sailed  past  an  odd  looking  old  fort  on  one  of 
the  thousand  islands,  a  signal  gun  was  fired  across  our 
bow,  followed  by  a  hail  in  Portuguese,  after  the  custom 
of  centuries  ago,  demanding  to  know  ' '  whence  we  came 
and  whither  bound  and  to  answer  truly  if  any  sickness 
aboard,"  all  of  which  they  knew,  as  all  ships  entering 
the  river  are  reported  by  the  cable  from  the  pilot 
station.  The  captain  good  naturedly  shouted  back 
**Quinzie  dias,  Neuva  York,  and  all  well."  The  Bra- 
zilian flag  was  dipped  in  exchange  of  salutes  with  our 
ensign,  as  we  passed  on,  not  even  hesitating  or  slacking 
speed.  The  American  traveller  must  first  learn  to 
respect  the  customs  of  the  lands  he  visits  even  though 
they  may  seem  absurd. 

From  my  position  on  the  bridge,  glancing  at  the  tall 
mast  of  the  old  ship,  I  was  gratified  to  see  the  Stars 
and  Stripes  flying  from  the  topmast.  Jokingly  accus- 
ing the  captain  of  sailing  under  false  colors  he  retorted 
smilingly,  that  it  was  a  compliment  to  his  American 
passenger.  I  doffed  my  hat  to  the  colors  and  heartily 
shook  the  Englishman's  hand  thanking  him  for  the 
compliment  and  the  many  courtesies. 

The  large  white  walled  warehouses,  lining  the  water 
front,  with  the  *'trapeches"  or  piers,  and  docks  as 


bo 

Q 
bo 

« 

< 
W 

^; 
o 

N 

< 

< 
W 

X 
t^ 

;z; 
o 


THE  N.  0.  OF  THE  AMAZON  25 

also  the  steeples  of  the  old  Jesuit  churches  in  the 
back  ground  were  all  familiar,  recalling  my  first  arrival 
and  life  in  the  old  town,  and  my  departure,  when 
carried  aboard  too  ill  to  walk. 

The  anchor  goes  down  with  the  usual  rumble,  and  we 
were  swinging  in  the  stream,  the  Para  or  Tocatins 
river  of  our  geographies,  of  which  no  Brazilian  has 
heard,  however,  the  water  being  known  there  as  ''Gua- 
jara  Bay"  (pronounced  Y-jah-rah),  a  picturesque  har- 
bor, several  miles  long,  but  so  narrow  opposite  the  city 
that  steamers  are  obliged  to  anchor  at  ebb  tide  with 
their  bows  pointing  up  stream,  and  wait  for  the  incom- 
ing tide  to  swing  them  when  they  wish  to  go  out.  One 
of  the  interesting  phenomena  to  the  newly  arrived 
visitor  is  the  rapid  current  running  up  stream,  with 
such  force,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  disembark, 
the  small  boats  being  unable  to  grapple  with  the 
anchored  ship,  the  foaming  waters  at  the  bow,  giving 
the  anchored  ship  the  appearance  of  going  at  full  speed 
down  stream. 

Attention  is  attracted  to  the  jaunty  little  Brazilian 
customs  officer,  who  has  boarded  our  ship,  placing 
soldiers  on  the  gangway,  who  scrutinize  with  reciprocal 
courtesy  and  interest,  all  communication  with  the  soil 
of  Brazil, 


CHAPTER  II. 

A^A  (pronounced  pah-rah)  in  the  Spanish 
or  Portuguese,  means  "for"  or  via,  more 
literally,  "going  to,"  an  appropriate 
name  for  the  city,  which  is  the  gateway 
to  the  great  regions  beyond. 

The  official  name  of  the  capital  city  of 
the   old   province   of  Para  is   "Belem," 
which  designation  is  yet  used  in  all  Governmental  com- 
munications. 

This  the  most  northern _city  of  Brazil  has  much  more 
to  interest  the  visitor  than  the  business  fact  of  being  the 
principal  rubber  market  of  the  world.  Like  the  rest  of 
Brazil  it  is  rich  in  history  and  tradition.  Its  civiliza- 
tion is  as  old,  and,  as  they  view  it,  as  far  advanced  as 
our  own.  The  pre-historic  development  of  this  part 
of  South  America  is  an  attractive  field  for  the  modern 
explorer   and   the   archaeologist. 

Though  the  business  of  Para  is  largely  speculative, 
being  dependent  upon  the  natural  productions  of  the 
Amazon  valley,  it  is  not  a  boom  city  like  those  of  our 
West,  nor  like  the  oil,  coal  and  gas  regions  of  the  East. 
The  foundations  were  laid  in  1611  by  the  Portuguese 
commander,  who  wrested  the  land  from  the  occupancy 
of  the  French. 

It  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Para,  the  most  north- 
erly of  the  Republic  of  the  United  States  of  Brazil  com- 
prising one-seventh  of  the  territory  and  one-thirteenth 
of  the  entire  surface  of  South  America. 

26 


P"»1M 

t^       % 

4i  r^'i^ 
-  ^ 

1        "1 

^^1 

'^'f       '  m 

%         1 

%       jl 

f:  S                   ^^91 

ADVICE  TO  TROPICAL  TRAVELLERS        27 

Tbg  popnlflt.inn  is  about  one  hundred  thousand,  com- 
posed principally  of  Portuguese  and  their  descendents, 
and  a  rmxtiire  of  native  and  Indian  and  former  African 
slaves,  with  a  large  contingent  of  foreigners  of  all 
nations  engaged  in  the  rubber  business  and  its  allied 
interests. 

Much  erroneous  information  has  been  printed  in  our 
country  regarding  Para  by  travellers  who  come  on 
steamers  enroute  north  and  south,  and  who  unfor- 
tunately confine  their  observations  to  a  few  hours' 
sight  seeing  in  the  midday  sun.  They  make  the  com- 
mon mistake  of  not  adapting  themselves  to  climate  and 
changed  conditions,  going  ashore  late  in  the  morning 
and  returning  to  the  ship  in  the  early  evening  which 
is  the  most  pleasant  time  on  shore.  They  are  of  course 
exhausted  by  the  heat  and  disgusted  with  one  day's 
experience  of  a  tropical  sunshine  and  too  often  write 
their  opinions  of  a  city  from  this  experience. 

The  natives  have  a  saying  that  ''Only  Englishmen 
and  dogs  go  about  in  the  sun,"  and  all  who  vent  their 
hot  temper  in  our  language  are  called  Englishmen. 

The  iniiinctinn  to  **Do  in  Rome  as  the  Romans 
do"  is  especially  applicable  to  the  tropical  traveller. 
As  a  first  requirement  strangers  should  keep  out  of  the 
sun  during  the  day,  and  avoid  the  rains  which  come 
down  in  sheets  in  the  early  evening.  One  may  take 
a  cold  or  suffer  a  chill  in  those  hot  lands  as  readily  as 
with  us,  the  results  being  far  more  serious. 

If  one  gets  wet  or  chilled,  the  preventive  of  fevers 
is  a  sponge  bath  with  Cachasa,  the  rum  of  the  country, 
made  from  the  sugar  cane,  which  is  very  cheap  and 
should  be  used  freely  externally,  but  never  internally, 


28  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

except  as  a  morning  bitters  with  Peruvian  bark,  as  a 
preventive  of  malaria. 

Fruit  is  abundant  and  in  some  sections  the  natives 
fairly  subsist  on  bananas  and  fish,  but  the  stranger  is 
cautioned  not  to  eat  fruit,  especially  oranges,  at  night. 
Some  of  the  better  class  of  people  do  not  eat  the 
oranges,  because  of  the  belief  that  they  transmit  fevers. 
Oranges  grown  in  the  tropics,  or  at  least  in  this  part, 
are  entirely  devoid  of  the  agreeable  fragrance  of  our 
fruit. 

The  early  hours  of  the  morning  before  the  sun  warms 
up,  are  devoted  to  business  and  exercising,  during  the 
noon  breakfast  is  served  on  the  piazzas,  and  late  in  the 
day,  after  the  rains  have  cooled  the  air  and  washed  the 
streets,  dinner  is  served  and  the  evening  devoted  to 
pleasure. 

An  prrnn pons  impr fission  prevails  that  Spanish  is  the 
language  of  all  South  America;  but  in  Brazil  the  Por- 
tuguese is  spoken.  Both  Portuguese  and  'Spaniard  seem 
to  understand  each  other,  but  English  is  generally 
understood  by  those  who  meet  with  strangers. 

Passengers  on  ships  calling  at  Para  north  or  south 
bound  up  the  Amazon  usually  have  sufficient  time  ashore 
to  see  the  city  at  its  best.  Any  one  of  the  swarm  of 
Portuguese  boatmen  that  flock  about  the  ships  will 
contract  to  take  passengers  ashore  after  early  coffee, 
about  6  a.  m.  4^ter  a  few  hours'  stroll  on  Brazilian 
soil  a  noonday  breakfast  may  be  enjoyed  on  the  balcony 
of  one  of  the  several  well  kept  hotels.  Good  French  or 
Portuguese  wine  furnished  with  the  meals  is  preferable 
to  the  water  of  those  lands.  Delicious  coffee  grown 
and  prepared  freshly  in  the  land  where  it  is  produced, 


ASHORE  IN  PARA  29 

is  served  after  the  meals  and  not  as  ^  beverage.  The 
intolerable  hot  hours  of  the  afternoon  may  be  spent  in 
the  enjoyment  of  a  siesta  in  a  large  hammock  strung 
in  the  corridor  of  the  hotel  until  after  the  evening 
rains,  when  another  stroll  may  be  enjoyed  before 
dinner,  which  is  served  at  candle  light  with  which  the 
real  tropical  day  begins.  The  dinner  is  followed  by 
theatres  or  the  opera,  which  are  subsidized  by  the 
government. 

If  the  reader  will  permit,  one  familiar  with  the  city 
through  consular  residence,  to  write  as  if  acting  as 
the  conductor  of  a  party,  I  shall  be  pleased  to  tell  my 
little  story  in  that  style. 

Groups  of  passengers  from  the  ships  straggle  in  scat- 
tering pairs  through  what  seems  like  a  gateway  of 
a  great  white  wall  formed  by  a  large  warehouse  on 
one  side,  and  the  massive  walls  of  the  abandoned 
Jesuit  Church,  resembling  a  grim  fortress  or  a  prison, 
on  the  other.  But  once  inside  facing  the  entrance  to 
the  church,  they  are  agreeably  surprised  to  find  a  beau- 
tiful little  plaza,  tastefully  arranged,  with  gravel  walks 
and  beds  of  lovely  tropical  flowers  of  sweet  fragrance. 
A  pedestal  in  the  center  supports  a  heroic  sized  bronze 
statue  of  one  of  the  country's  patriots.  A  picturesque 
grotto,  constructed  from  imported  rubble  stone  over 
which  the  clear  water  from  a  pretty  fountain  ripples 
musically,  finds  its  way  into  small  pools  that  contain 
living  specimens  of  the  finny  tribe  that  inhabit  the 
Amazon,  the  most  interesting  of  which  is  the  sea  cow. 
Rare  birds  of  gorgeous  plumage  stalk  about  in  the  tall 
grass.  Among  these  is  the  white  heron,  prized  for 
the  aigrette  feathers,  which  are  more  precious  than 


30  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

ostrich  plumes.  ^  There  are  also  several  varieties  of 
accomplished  parrots  that  can  swear  in  several  lan- 
guages, and  lively  monkeys,  valued  according  to  their 
resemblance  to  the  human  form  divine. 

This  little  Plaza  gives  a  stranger  an  idea  of  a  very 
few  of  the  immensity  of  the  wild  life  in  the  forests 
beyond,  and  of  the  queer  fish  of  the  Equatorial  rivers. 
But  probably  the  majority  of  tourists  are  more  inter- 
ested in  a  visit  to  a  character  of  Para,  known  in  all 
lands  as  * '  Monkey  Joe, ' '  the  keeper  of  an  old  curiosity 
shop  where  all  sorts  of  curios  can  be  obtained  for  cash. 
His  principal  trade  is  in  monkeys  of  all  sorts  of  pedigree 
and  parrots  at  25  cents  each  that  are  warranted  to  make 
it  interesting  for  any  monkey. 

On  one  side  of  the  Plaza  are  the  massive  walls  of  the 
church  abandoned  many  years  ago  by  the  Jesuits, 
those  earnest  workers  who  were  expelled  from  that 
country. 

Some  persons  believe  there  are  hidden  chambers  and 
secret  passages  within  the  stone  walls  of  this  edifice, 
which  could  give  some  very  interesting  and  tragic 
accounts  of  the  early  settlement  of  Amazonia. 

There  seems  to  have  been  in  the  minds  of  the  officials 
who  seized  the  property,  a  deep  spirit  of  reverence, 
as  the  beautiful  entrance  and  interior  of  the  church 
have  remained  undisturbed,  a  solid  and  impressive 
monument  to  the  noble  religio  bellicose  zeal,  the  valor 
and  devotion  of  the  early  Catholic  settlers.  The  bells 
in  the  square,  Moorish  looking  steeples,  have  been 
silent  for  many  years,  but  it  is  probable  that  the  im- 
pressiveness  of  the  structure  with  its  steeples  pointing 


OLD  CHURCHES  31 

to  the  sky,  have  preached  many  sermons  in  stone  to 
these  people. 

Adjoining  the  church  stands  the  large  convent  which 
has  also  been  confiscated,  but  unlike  the  church  pre- 
sents a  bustling  appearance,  having  been  ''converted'* 
into  an  Alfandaga,  or  custom  house,  in  the  capacious 
rooms  of  which  everything  that  comes  to  Para  from 
other  lands  is  stored  to  await  leisurely  examination. 

Three  lines  of  street  cars  pass  on  three  sides  of  the 
Plaza,  two  of  which  are  narrow  gauge.  The  cars 
formerly  drawn  by  mules  and  driven  by  natives  are 
now  operated  by  electric  motors. 

The  people  do  not  take  the  ** cars'*  there,  but  call 
them  ''Bonds";  not  as  has  been  stated  because  so  many 
bonds  were  required  to  put  them  in  operation,  but  in 
compliment  to  the  persistent  efforts  of  an  Englishman, 
named  Bond,  who  introduced  their  use.  The  narrow 
guage  system  is  best  adapted  to  Para  as  in  many  locali- 
ties a  cart  cannot  pass  when  one  of  the  *' Bonds"  is  on 
the  same  block  on  account  of  the  narrowness  of  the 
streets. 

The  houses  are  small,  usually  one  story  and  quite 
picturesque  with  their  overhanging  balconies  and  win- 
dows decorated  with  bright  colored  shades ;  queer  look- 
ing hallways  and  low  tile  covered  roofs  extending  over 
the  narrow  sidewalks.  The  roofing  material  resembles 
split  bamboo  of  terra  cotta  pipe,  lapping  each  oth^r, 
forming  corrugated  ridges  and  gutter^  that  carry  off 
the  heavy  rains  that  are  showered  on  the  narrow  pave- 
ments. The  tile  also  answers  as  a  useful  non-conductor 
of  the  terrific  heat  of  the  torrid  sun. 

The  greater  portion,  of  the  old  city  proper  consists 


32  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

of  small  houses  built  long  ago  in  the  Portuguese  style  of 
architecture.  The  walls  are  composed  of  large  tiled 
brick  which  are  hollow.  These  are  cemented  together 
by  a  muddy  looking  material  that  answers  for  mortar 
in  a  land  without  frost.  The  better  class  of  houses 
have  their  fronts  covered  with  variegated  tiles  im- 
ported from  Portugal,  the  majority  being  of  as  fine  ma- 
terial as  are  used  in  the  States  for  mantles  and  interior 
decoration.  The  prevailing  colors  are  yellow  and  blue, 
in  designs  that  are  harmonious  and  tastQful.  In  the 
suburbs  are  some  strikingly  handsome  residences  of 
different  styles,  nestling  picturesquely  in  the  midst  of 
luxuriant  tropical  gardens.  The  more  modern  houses 
are  built  on  raised  foundations  for  better  protection 
from  dampness  as  well  as  the  numerous  insect  pests  of 
that  climate.  Every  house  is  provided  with  hooks  on 
which  hammocks  are  strung.  Everybody  sleeps  in  a 
-hammock,  because  it  is  cooler,  cleaner  and  out  of  reach 
of  insects.  Usually  the  only  covering  is  the  mosquito 
ne+ting  or  ''mosquetare^'  which  is  spread  over  the  ham- 
mock as  a  canopy.  Some  few  of  these  suburban  homes 
are  occupied  by  foreigners  who  represent  the  American 
and  European  business  houses,  but  the  majority  are 
the  homes  of  the  better  and  wealthier  class  of  Brazilians 
who  are  cultivated  and  a  hospitable  people. 

Between  five  and  six  in  the  evening,  or  just  before 
dinner — and  at  no  other  time  of  the  day — the  stranger 
will  probably  notice  quite  a  number  of  pretty,  bright, 
dark  eyes  peeping  through  the  window  shades,  or  the 
neat  forms  of  the  senhoritas  posing  gracefully  over  the 
little  balconies.  These  are  slightly  above  the  ordinary 
height,  so  that  the  senhoritas  or  senhoras  have  the 


CUSTOM  OF  SENHORITAS  33 

advaDtage  of  looking  down  on  any  admirer  who  may 
happen  to  be  strolling  along  the  narrow  sidewalk  below. 
The  young  American  tourist  with  a  patronizing  air  who 
will  imagine  that  he  discovers  at  least  one  pair  of 
black  eyes  that  look  agreeable,  Avill  find  out  if  any 
advances  are  made,  that  Brazilian  ladies  are  like  our 
own  and  resent  the  masher's  advances.  The  senhorita 
must  be  approached  cavalierly.  She  may  smile  upon 
the  poor  blond  approvingly  who  offers  only  the  homage 
of  love,  while  she  rejects  with  unmistakable  scorn  the 
rude  advances  of  those  who  may  think  a  show  of  riches 
and  cheek  will  sustain  their  suit. 

The  ladies  have  a  charming  way  of  saluting  each 
other,  and  their  gentlemen  friends,  by  raising  and 
deftly  waving  the  tapering  fingers  of  what  looks  to 
be  little  hands  in  neat  brown  gloves.  To  call  a4other, 
they  do  not  shout  or  beckon  with  the  hand  as  we  do, 
but  simply  turn  the  palm  downward.  A  wig  wag  of 
the  index  finger  means  a  quiet  but  decided  no ;  to  place 
the  finger  to  the  lips  is  silence;  and  putting  the  fip.ger 
between  the  teeth  is  a  sure  sign  of  displeasure,  and 
they  will  even  show  disgust  by  spitting  to  the  ground. 
The  beautiful  brown  and  black  eyes  can  express  much 
for  which  there  are  no  signals.  Of  course  placing  the 
hand  on  the  heart  and  sighing  means  love,  if  they  are 
not  close  enough  to  **tell  it  with  their  eyes." 

The  better  class  of  young  men  of  Para,  who  are  in 
business,  and  have  been  educated  in  Lisbon  or  Paris, 
are  courteous,  warm  hearted  gentlemen  of  the  de- 
cided handsome  dark  eyed  type  and  as  partial  to  our 
American  and  English  blondes  as  the  ladies  are  to  blue 
eyes. 


34  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  San  Jose  avenue,  leading  from  the  Palacio 
toward  the  fashionable  suburb  or  Nazareth  (pro- 
nounced Naz-a-ray)  possesses  a  feature  which  can  be 
equaled  in  no  American  or  European  city.  On  either 
side  of  this  broad  street  are  rows  of  the  largest  Royal 
palms;  large  stately  trees  with  round  straight  trunks 
beautifully  tapering  above  the  tops  of  the  surround- 
ing houses.  These  are  crowned  with  graceful  clusters 
of  leaves  twenty  to  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  but  at  a 
height  of  sixty  feet  or  more  from  the  ground  they 
appear  so  light  and  airy,  waving  in  the  breeze,  that 
they  invariably  impress  one  as  being  petite.  Strangers 
encountering  leaves  which  have  been  wrenched  off  by 
some  violent  storm,  are  amazed  to  find  them  to  be  by 
actual  measurement  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet 
long. 

Nazareth  Avenue,  the  principal  street  of  the  beauti- 
ful suburb  of  the  same  name,  affords  a  delightful  stroll 
in  the  early  evening  while  the  sun  is  yet  bright,  or 
later  in  the  soft  moonlight.  The  broad  pavements  are 
perfectly  shaded  by  immense  old  mango  trees,  which 
all  the  year  round  form  a  dense  mass  of  green  foliage, 
so  thick  that  not  a  fleck  of  sunlight  can  penetrate 
their  wide  spreading,  generously  rounded  dome. 

There  can  be  no  watered  milk  sold  in  Para,  and  it 
is  necessarily  fresh.  It  comes  around  in  early  morn- 
ing noiselessly  on  all  fours,  in  droves  of  milk  cows 
linked  in  sections  of  three  or  four.  With  their  muzzled 
calves  following  them,  tied  in  some  instances  to  the 
cow's  tail,  they  are  driven  to  the  customer's  door 
where  milk  is  drawn  into  your  own  glass  ready  for 
use,  warm  without  the  formality  of  straining. 


CURIOUS  CUSTOMS  IN  PARA 


35 


Milk  Delivery  in  Para 


36  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  principal  vehicles  of  Para  are  a  few  second 
hand  cabs  in  which  may  occasionally  be  seen  the 
officials  or  a  bridal  party  going  to  the  churches.  All 
others,  with  the  exception  of  the  street  cars,  are  two- 
wheeled  drays,  which  half  dressed  porters  lead  by  a 
long  rope  that  permits  them  to  walk  on  the  pavement. 

There  is  no  stone  in  lower  Amazonia.  The  business 
streets  are  paved  with  stone  blocks  brought  from 
Portugal  as  ballast  and  laid  down  at  an  estimated 
cost  of  twenty-five  to  fifty  cents  each. 

The  city  has  a  telephone  system  embracing  three 
huiidred  exchanges,  also  an  electric  light  plant,  ice 
machinery,  and  is  well  supplied  with  water  and  sewage 
facilities. 

Business  men,  shop-keepers  and  clerks  of  the  native 
class  wear  black  cloth  frock  poats  and  trousers,  while 
the  foreigner  is  distinguished  by  his  light  clothing. 
The  Paranense  is  as  a  rule  rather  small  of  stature  and 
slender  in  form,  his  style  of  dressing  gives  an  impres- 
sion of  youths  wearing  their  father's  Sunday  clothes, 
the  top-heavy  appearance  being  heightened  by  the  old 
style  broad  rimmed  derby  hat.  Every  Brazileiro  can 
be  distinguished  by  a  small  black  necktie  and  shoes — • 
long  and  narrow,  made  in  France  expressly  for  this 
trade.  In  dress,  as  well  as  in  general  deportment, 
there  are  no  boys  in  Para,  such  as  we  know,  who  wear 
short  pants  and  jackets.  The  only  difference  in 
appearance  between  father  and  son  is  in  their  relative 
heights  as  they  wear  alike  the  exaggerated  cuffs,  derby 
hats  and  carry  canes  or  umbrellas. 

Little  girls  of  eight  and  ten  are  young  ladies,  and  at 
twelve  and  thirteen  wives  and  frequently  mothers. 


TROPICAL  ATTIRE  37 

Travellers  to  Amazonia  should  supply  themselves 
with  clothing  usually  worn  by  us  in  the  summer,  a  large 
proportion  of  light  underwear  being  advisable.  An 
Englishman  follows  the  East  India  custom  of  filling 
his  ''boxes"  with  light  colored  linens  and  seersuckers, 
in  addition  to  his  checkered  trousers,  never  forgets  his 
dress  suit.  A  German  may  be  readily  recognized  by 
his  light  tight-fitting  clothes,  while  the  American 
ashore  astonishes  the  natives  by  an  appearance  in 
negligee  or  lawn-tennis  suits  of  fancy  light  colored 
flannels  cut  in  the  style  of  pajamas,  which  are  worn  in 
that  climate  as  night  robes.  Brazileiros  of  cultivated 
taste  and  independent  manner  as  well  as  the  older 
resident  foreigners,  wear  white  linen  or  silk  serge  all 
the  year.  The  Padres  or  Priests  go  about  the  streets  in 
cassocks  that  resemble  Mother  Hubbard  costumes,  each 
with  cord  around  the  waist  to  which  are  large  pendent 
crosses  and  all  wear  three  cornered  hats. 

But  a  large  majority  of  the  negro  or  native  children 
of  the  lower  classes  are  not  dressed  at  all.  It  is  no 
exaggeration  to  say  that  a  great  portion  of  these  chil- 
dren have  never  worn  clothing.  One  may  see  babies 
from  one  to  three  years,  belonging  to  the  better  class, 
being  fondled  by  their  parents  in  public  in  a  perfectly 
nude  state.  It  is  a  great  country  for  babies,  and  a 
happy  condition  that  the  poorer  parents  are  not  obliged 
to  be  at  the  expense  of  dressing  their  numerous 
progeny.  The  travelling  companion  who  may  volun- 
teer to  escort  a  party  of  lady  tourists  through  the  town 
might  find  it  embarrassing  to  explain  the  accompani- 
ment of  three  of  four  brown-skinned  boys  of  from  four 
to  eight,  hanging  on  to  the  street  cars.     The  drivers, 


Sd  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORlROW 

however,  are  more  cultured.  They  wear  trousers  and 
(sometimes)  a  shirt;  but  as  a  rule  few  laborers  add  to 
their  daily  burdens  b}^  wearing  anything  above  the 
black  Stanley  belt  that  holds  up  their  overalls,  no  hat 
and  never  shoes.  The  bakers  who  make  the  daily 
bread  of  Para  by  the  sweat  of  their  brow,  do  nut 
encumber  themselves  with  any  clothes  when  at  Avork. 
The  climate  and  a  hot  oven  are  too  much  for  them. 

The  females  of  the  lower  class  go  about  the  streets 
without  covering  for  the  head  to  protect  them  from  the 
sun.  These  women  usually  do  the  marketing  for  the 
houses  where  they  are  employed,  carrying  their  pur- 
chases in  queer  shaped  baskets  on  the  head.  This 
habit  gives  them  an  erect  and  graceful  carriage  which 
one  can  better  appreciate  when  viewed  at  a  distance 
with  the  person  walking  away.  A  few  of  the  descen- 
dents  of  the  Indian  negroes,  called  Tapansa,  are  rather 
attractive  in  face  and  figure,  but  they  dress  with  little 
or  no  taste  and  resemble  somewhat  the  field-hand  col- 
ored girls  of  the  South.  Their  loud  figured  dresses 
are  brief  at  both  ends,  no  doubt  with  a  view  to 
economy.  Some  young  Englishmen  informed  me  that 
this  outer  dress  is  the  only  garment  worn  by  them  on 
the  street  for  ordinary   occasions. 

In  Amazonia  the  class  distinction  is  clearly  defined, 
there  being  an  upper  and  a  nether  mill-stone  which 
grinds  finely.  This  is  not  a  color  line,  however,  for 
here  is  found  none  of  the  prejudice  against  color  which 
exists  in  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  only  aristoc- 
racy may  perhaps  be  called  a  political,  moneyed 
aristocracy.  It  is  in  no  sense  *' blooded,''  though 
there  is  an  inclination  to  magnify  what  blood  can  be 


BRAZILIAN  ARISTOCRACY  39 

traced  back  as  far  as  two  generations.  Some  of  the 
** bluest"  point  with  great  pride  to  their  Pocahontas 
grandmothers,  whose  oil  portraits  adorn  the  parlor 
walls  of  many  of  the  most  estimable  families,  and  if 
these  pictures  are  true  likenesses,  they  may  well  be 
proud.  One  striking  characteristic,  not  only  of  these 
portraits,  but  of  the  descendents  of  the  higher  class,  is 
the  almost  perfect  symmetry  and  regularity  of  the 
features,  accompanied  by  a  dignified  and  genial  com- 
posure. 

The  provisional  government  of  the  Republic  of 
Brazil  decreed  that  those  of  its  eminent  citizens,  upon 
whom  the  Emporer  Dom  Pedro  II  had  conferred  titles, 
should  continue  to  enjoy  them  in  an  honorable  way, 
under  the  new  Republic  until  their  death,  when  they 
ceased. 

In  Para  there  are  several  resident  Barons,  very  few 
of  whom  have  not  bought  their  titles.  Dom  Pedro 
always  publicly  defended  this  transaction  by  the  char- 
acteristic explanation  that  the  money  received  from 
this  source  was  used  exclusively  for  the  sustenance  of 
lunatic  asylums  in  Brazil. 

The  inauguration  of  the  Republic  separated  the 
Church  and  State,  but  the  country  remains  substanti- 
ally Catholic.  The  greater  proportion  of  church 
attendants  are  the  lower  or  poorer  class.  The  more 
cultivated  resident  is  content  to  allow  his  wife  or 
daughters  represent  the  family  by  attending  service 
occasionally.  The  genial  Governor  of  Para,  with 
whom  I  talked  on  this  subject,  expressed  the  situation 
in  broken  English,  **0h  yes,  I  am  a  good  Catholic.  We 
are  all  Catholics.    I  go  to  church  about  three  times 


40  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

a  year,  to  a  wedding,  then  a  christening  and  then 
maybe  a  funeral;  but  my  wife  she  goes  every  Sunday 
morning  while  I  am  sleeping/' 

The  custom  of  a  noon  breakfast  has  the  advantage 
of  allowing  the  native  to  indulge  in  the  American 
habit  of  a  Sunday  morning  sleep;  but  this  is  inter- 
rupted by  the  early  church  service. 

Sunday  is  ushered  in  with  a  great  ringing  of  church 
bells  and  the  discharging  of  rockets  that  go  up  almost 
simultaneously  from  the  different  churches  throughout 
the  city  and  explode  in  the  air  with  a  loud  report.  The 
new  comer,  impressed  with  the  reputation  for  revolu- 
tions and  imagining  from  the  racket  without  that  he 
is  to  enjoy  this  experience,  hastily  rises  and  upon  inves- 
tigation learns  that  it  is  a  peaceful  religious  custom  of 
the  people.  The  probabilities  are  that  he  goes  back  to 
his  bed  or  hammock  swearing  instead  of  feeling  devout. 

During  the  ceremonials  incident  to  the  service  of 
the  Catholic  church  in  Brazil,  these  rockets  are  fired 
from  the  plaza  in  front  of  each  church.  A  Protestant 
resident  insisted  that  this  is  their  way  of  firing  prayers 
to  heaven ;  but  it  is  probably  the  result  of  a  practice  of 
the  early  missionaries,  who  found  it  politic  to  adopt 
this  noisy  method  of  devotion  to  influence  the  Indian 
worshippers.  It  is  still  practiced  in  certain  parts  as  a 
means  of  expressing  joy  and  glorification.  A  cour- 
teous French  Padre  laughed  heartily  at  the  irreverent 
suggestion  one  evening  as  we  sat  together  watching  the 
fireworks  from  different  churches  sailing  up  into  the 
darkness,that  if  there  were  any  angels  hovering  around 
Para,  the  church  rockets  would  have  the  effect  of  driv- 
ing them  away. 


■^ 


J 


PECULIAR  CHURCH  CUSTOMS  41 

The  church  bells  are  not  "rung"  as  with  us,  but  are 
hammered  by  half-naked  worshippers  who  are  well 
drilled  from  constant  practice.  They  stand  in  the 
towers  armed  with  hammers  in  both  hands  with  which 
they  tap  the  larger  bells,  creating  a  confused  ding-  ^ 
dong-don  accompaniment  of  the  smaller  ones,  quite 
confusing  and  irritating. 

The  devotional  part  of  a  Para  Sunday  does  not 
however,  occupy  much  time,  the  religious  duties  being 
satisfactorily  performed  by  perfunctory  attendance  at 
one  mass,  limited  almost  entirely  to  the  lower  class 
of  females  who  kneel  in  straggling  groups  on  the 
stone  or  earth  floor,  there  being  no  seats  in  the 
churches.  *     


There  is  no  word  in  the  Portuguese  to  express  that 
sweetest  of  all  words  in  our  tongue,  *'home."  The 
Casa,  or  house,  is  suitably  constructed  and  planned  for 
the  half  out  of  door  life  in  that  climate.  No  carpets 
are  used  on  account  of  the  dampness  and  insects. 
There  are  no  door  bells,  and  a  visitor  entering  a  hall 
must  be  careful  not  to  knock  or  stamp  his  foot,  as  that 
would  be  insulting,  the  Oriental  mode  of  clapping  the 
hands,  being  the  only  method  of  calling  attention. 
When  lady  friends  meet  on  the  street  they  kiss  each 
other  first  on  one  cheek  and  then  on  the  other,  and 
when  gentlemen  meet  after  a  short  absence  they  always 
embrace,  giving  each  other  three  pats  on  the  back.  It 
is  the  custom  to  shake  hands  when  meeting  and  part- 
ing, even  if  it  occurs  many  times  during  the  same  day. 
They  also  adhere  to  the  Spanish  custom  forbidding 
any  lady  appearing  on  the  street  or  elsewhere  unless 
accompanied  by  some  member  of  her  family,  and  my 


42  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

own  observation  has  been  that  this  exaction  is  scrupu- 
lously adhered  to.  It  should  not  be  inferred,  how- 
ever,  that  the  custom  precludes  pleasant  social  inter- 
course. In  almost  every  house  of  the  refined  class  may 
be  met  pleasant  society  of  a  hospitable  and  congenial 
character  of  both  sexes. 

In  this  land  of  to-morrow  everything  seems  to  go 
by  contraries.  To  find  a  cool  climate  you  go  south  or 
north.  One  can  only  tell  the  season  by  looking  in  an 
almanac.  The  rule  is  to  pass  to  the  left;  the  street 
car  conductor  takes  your  money  a  ad  gives  you  a 
ticket;  ladies  wait  to  be  first  recognized  by  gentlemen. 
The  stranger  must  be  careful  in  making  advances  as 
such  a  small  thing  as  handing  a  lady  acquaintance  a 
flower  indicates  in  some  circumstances,  the  offering  of 
heart  and  hand,  if  she  accepts  the  flower  the  contract 
is  sealed  in  the  presence  of  witnesses.  Courting  and 
lovemaking  may  seem  somewhat  restricted,  as  com- 
pared with  our  free  and  easy  ways,  but  notwithstand- 
ing the  difficulties,  the  young  and  old  manage  to  get 
along  in  the  good  old  fashioned  way  of  marrying  and 
establishing  homes  and  building  up  the  land  of  to- 
morrow. 

As  illustrating  more  clearly  the  reversal  of  customs 
I  will  add :  An  English  gentleman,  married  to  a  Brazil- 
ian lady,  informed  me  he  never  kissed  his  wife  till 
after  they  were  married.  We  all  know  that  with  us 
that  custom  is  reversed,  the  kissing  favors  before  mar- 
riage and  seldom  after. 


CHAPTER  III. 

T  the  present  time  and  for  some  years 
all  trade  and  transportation  of  the 
Amazon  and  the  business  of  its  cities, 
the  State  governments  of  North 
Brazil  depend  upon  the  natural  pro- 
ducts of  the  forests  of  the  valleys, 
which  is  principally  India-rubber,  or 
as  it  is  known  there,  * '  Borrachio, " 
the  traders'  name  for  the  several 
grades. 
It  is  well  known  that  the  best  quality  of  rubber  and 
the  most  abundant  supply  comes  from  the  Amazon ;  but 
it  is  not  so  well  understood  that  the  finest  grade  known 
botanically  as  **Hevea  Braziliansa"  (or  commercially 
as  ''Para")  is  found  only  in  Amazonia,  while  the 
*' trade"  is  principally  in  the  hands  of  the  native  busi- 
ness men  or  Portuguese  merchants,  the  extensive  trans- 
portation required  for  distributing  the  supplies  and 
collecting  of  rubber  and  sending  to  the  markets  of  the 
world  is  in  control  of  the  English  steamship  and  river 
transportation  companies. 

Though  called  *'Para,"  the  greater  portion  of  the 
supply  now  comes  from  a  district  in  upper  Amazonia 
(in  Peru  and  Bolivia)  which  is  as  far  from  Para  as  it 
is  from  Para  to  New  York. 

The  Hevea  rubber  of  the  finest  grade,  known  as  ''up 
river,"  is  usually  quoted  at  double  the  price  of  the 
inferior  grades  known  as  "Caucho  "  which  is  found 

43 


44  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

more  abundant  in  Peru.  Another  variety  of  second 
quality  is  botanically  ''Castila  Elastiea"  and  commer- 
cially "Central,"  because  it  is  the  rubber  indigenous  to 
Central  America  and  Mexico.  There  is  not  only  a 
difference  in  grade,  but  in  the  matter  of  supply,  the 
tree  of  the  Hevea  yielding  twenty-five  per  cent  more 
without  injury  than  the  Caucho  and  Castila  which  is 
destroyed  in  order  to  make  a  profit. 

It  is  a  trite  saying,  that  the  best  rubber  is  found  in 
localities  where  human  life  does  not  long  exist,  in  the 
swamps  and  steamy  humid  atmosphere  that  produces 
fevers,  a  fit  habitation  for  snakes  and  alligators 
through  w^hich  the  native  or  Indian  rubber  gatherer 
must  wade  knee  deep  in  mud  and  ooze  to  tap  the  hun- 
dred trees  alloted  to  each  man,  covering  an  area  of 
about  a  mile,  known  as  an  * '  Estrada '  ^  or  path. 

The  Hevea  tree  grows  spontaneously  in  the  rich  soil 
of  the  forests  covering  the  low  lands  of  the  rivers, 
known  as  the  flood  plains,  extending  for  unknown  dis- 
tances to  the  south.  These  lands  are  overflowed  at 
certain  seasons  of  each  year  to  which  fact  may  be 
attributed  the  peculiar  qualities  of  the  Hevea  not  ob- 
tained in  other  localities.  The  tree  grows  to  a  height 
of  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet,  a  straight  trunk,  with  a 
rough  bark,  the  foliage  being  principally  quite  near 
the  top.  It  matures  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
years,  reproducing  itself  by  throwing  out  the  nut  or 
seed  which  grow  three  in  a  capsule,  with  a  cracking 
noise  like  the  report  of  a  pistol. 

A  great  many  persons,  even  among  the  rubber  inves- 
tigators, suppose  the  trees  are  tapped  for  their  juice 
as  the  sugar  maples  are  for  the  sap,  but  the  rubber 


RUBBER  TAPPING  45 

milk  is  not  a  sap  of  the  rubber  trees  but  a  **latix" 
that  circulates  in  small  streams  along  the  thin  outer 
layers  of  the  bark  of  the  tree. 

The  native  gatherer  goes  over  his  Estrada  in  the 
early  morning  supplied  with  a  lot  of  small  earthen 
or  tin  cups.  At  the  beginning  of  the  season  he  taps 
as  high  as  he  can  get,  making  little  V  shaped  incisions 
with  his  matchette.  Under  each  he  fastens  one  of  the 
little  cups  with  a  bit  of  soft  gum  into  which  the  thick 
white  milk  slowly  trickles  until  the  wound  in  the  bark 
heals,  which  may  be  in  a  few  hours  in  a  climate  where 
growth  is  so  rapid.  In  the  afternoon  he  collects  the 
milk  in  a  large  jar,  which  is  then  coagulated  on  paddles 
over  the  smoke  of  a  smudge  made  by  the  urucury  palm 
nut.  He  repeats  this  operation  every  day  during  the 
several  months  of  the  rubber  season. 

A  matured  Hevea  tree  in  the  swamp  will  give  an 
average  yield  of  five  gallons  of  milk  during  a  season, 
which  will  coagulate  into  five  pounds  of  rubber,  valued 
at  over  a  dollar  a  pound  in  gold  in  the  markets  of  the 
world. 

If  the  tree  is  carefully  tapped  it  will  give  this  result 
for  forty  years,  without  injury  or  cost  of  cultivation  or 
labor  other  than  the  collecting  of  the  milk  and  pre- 
paring for  the  market.  There  is  nothing  comes  out  of 
the  earth  that  will  yield  the  net  profits  of  the  rubber 
tree  that  flourishes  best  on  land  of  no  value  for  any- 
thing else.  If,  however,  the  hatchet  in  the  hands  of 
the  careless  native  or  Indian  penetrates  the  bark, 
exposing  the  wood,  the  tree  dies.  A  weevil  called 
punhila,  enters  tlie  wound,  as  a  worm  does  the  body, 
which  causes  speedy  decay. 


46  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

It  will  be  seen,  as  first  noted  in  my  Consular  reports, 
how  easy  it  has  been  for  the  army  of  marauding  rubber 
gatherers  to  destroy  the  available  sources  of  supply 
on  the  lower  Amazon. 

This  ruthless  slaughtering  to  gain  increased  output 
was  encouraged  by  the  town  traders,  who  were  eager 
to  get  rich  quickly  by  supplying  the  wonderfully 
increasing  demand  for  rubber  insulation  for  the  elec- 
tric age,  tubing  for  air  brake  tires,  etc. 

This  **  killing  of  the  Brazilian  geese  that  laid  the 
golden  eggs'^  at  home,  made  it  necessary  to  look  for  a 
new  source  of  supply  for  the  increasing  demand.  It 
was  to  exploit  this  new  territory  that  the  exploration 
of  the  upper  Amazon  affluents  was  undertaken  to 
Bolivia  and  Peru,  of  which  the  narrative  is  given  here- 
with. 

Rubber  is  next  to  the  standard  tropical  imports  of 
coffee  and  sugar,  and  the  United  States  consumes  one- 
half  of  the  total  output,  equivalent  to  about  fifty  million 
dollars  annually,  for  which  we  pay  gold,  always 
through  English  exchange,  the  money  being  used  to  buy 
in  Europe  goods  for  Amazonia.  There  is  no  reciprocity 
in  rubber,  but  little  being  imported  from  America, 
except  kerosene,  flour  and  bacon,  which  their  father- 
land Portugal  cannot  supply. 

The  state  governments  of  Para  and  Amazonia  exact 
an  export  duty  of  twenty-five  per  cent  on  rubber, 
which  is  received  in  our  country  free  of  duty  as  a  crude 
material.  It  cannot  therefore  be  charged  that  the 
tariff  is  the  mother  of  the  greatest  of  trusts,  the  rubber 
combine. 

The  business  in  Para  is  conducted  almost  entirely  by 


Indians  Coagulating  Rubber  in  the  Forest 

Facing  Page  46 


RUBBER  BROKERS  47 

the  agents  of  foreign  houses,  and  a  number  of 
''brokers'*  who  gamble  on  the  ''Exchange"  quoted 
over  English  wire  from  London.  All  foreign  business 
being  conducted  on  a  gold  basis,  a  draft  on  London  is 
more  acceptable  in  Para  than  American  gold. 

It  may  be  said  that  our  sister  Republic  of  Brazil  is 
largely  sustained  by  the  export  and  import  duties 
which  are  collected  on  almost  everything  and  to  which 
the  United  States  contributes  a  large  share  on  coffee, 
sugar,  rubber  and  numerous  articles  found  in  the 
forest  on  which  only  the  labor  is  expended  for  col- 
lecting. 

It  is  a  peculiarity  of  that  government  that  in  many 
respects  the  states  are  distinct  sovereignties.  The 
states  of  Para  and  Amazonas  collect  and  apply  to  their 
own  use  all  export  duties,  while  the  general  govern- 
ment at  Rio  de  Janeiro  controls  the  custom  houses  and 
appropriates  all  import  duties.  This  necessitates  two 
sets  of  officials  and  it  goes  without  saying  that  between 
the  two  millstones  the  grist  is  fine  and  the  toll  heavy. 

Rubber  gathering  being  more  profitable  than  all 
other  labor,  the  population  of  working  people  go  into 
the  forests  to  the  neglect  of  the  cultivation  of  their  rich 
soil.  Almost  everything  consumed,  therefore,  is 
brought  from  abroad,  a  heavy  import  duty  being  col- 
lected, and  the  laborer  paid  in  cheap  goods  from  Ger- 
many sold  to  him  at  a  large  profit. 

It  can  readily  be  inferred  that  Para  is  a  most  expen- 
sive place  to  live  in,  resembling  in  this  regard,  and 
also  in  the  speculative  tendencies  of  business,  the  early 
golden  days  of  San  Francisco.  The  retail  merchants  sell 
cheap  goods  at  exaggerated  prices.  The  cash  business  is 


48  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

done  in  five  and  six  figures,  as  represented  by  Brazilian 
paper  money,  reis  and  milreis,  one  thousand  reis  being 
equivalent  to  a  milreis,  which  at  par,  is  equivalent  to 
fifty-four  cents  of  our  money.  It  is  interesting  to  note 
that  during  the  reign  of  Dom  Pedro,  the  milreis,  which 
was  at  par,  has  since  steadily  declined. 

The  cost  of  living  at  a  hotel  is  from  six  to  ten  milreis 
per  day,  equivalent  to  our  two  or  three  dollar  houses 
with  fair  accommodations.  Boarding  houses  are  un- 
known, as  families  do  not  admit  outsiders  into  their 
homes. 

As  illustrating  the  queer  currency,  one  will  be  aston- 
ished at  a  demand  for  four  thousand  five  hundred  reis 
for  a  forty-nine  cent  shirt,  and  as  it  requires  from 
two  to  four  weeks  in  that  damp  climate  for  the  laundry 
women  to  do  what  we  would  consider  a  day's  wasliing 
it  follows  that  a  large  supply  of  linen  is  required.  A 
first  laundry  bill  was  in  four  figures,  but  when  it  is 
considered  that  one  of  the  valuable  looking  greenbacks 
having  engraved  on  each  of  its  corners  and  on  the 
margin  the  gratifying  figures  ''$500"  has  only  a  pur- 
chasing value  of  ten  cents,  the  enormity  of  the  bill  is 
greatly  reduced. 

*        *        * 

Being  situated  directly  on  the  Equator,  the  climate 
of  Para  and  the  lower  Amazon  is  unvarying.  Every 
day  of  the  year  is  alike,  not  only  with  regard  to  its 
length,  but  in  its  excessive  heat.  There  being  no 
change  of  seasons,  one  must  consult  a  calender  to 
know  when  it  is  winter.  There  are  no  sunless  days  in 
Amazonia.  Each  morning  the  sun  rises  out  of  the 
.Atlantic,  and  like  a  great  red  copper  ball,  uninter- 


CLIMATE  49 

ruptedly  discharges  its  fierce  electric  waves  of  glaring 
heat ;  except  when  shaded  by  the  crimson-edged  clouds 
for  a  short  time  in  the  afternoon  when  the  rains  come 
up.  It  is  as  hot  in  December  as  in  August.  The 
nights,  however,  are  alike  damp  and  comparatively 
cool.  The  sleeping  apartments  are  kept  closed  at 
night,  causing  the  tourist  sleeper  a  mouldy  sensation 
that  one  might  experience  from  sleeping  in  a  cellar. 

Clothing  should  not  be  thrown  on  the  floor,  but 
hung  up  high  at  night  and  aired  daily  in  the  sun  to 
prevent  mildew.  Shoes  left  on  the  floor  soon  become 
covered  with  white  mould,  and  one  is  apt  to  find  a 
scorpion  in  one  and  a  centipede  in  the  other.  Most  of 
the  population  sleep  in  hammocks  under  the  mosque- 
tare  as  the  only  covering. 

There  is  a  wet  and  dry  season,  the  former  beginning 
in  November  or  December,  which  they  consider  the 
winter.  But  there  is  no  difference  in  the  mercury;  if 
anything  it  is  a  little  hotter  in  the  mid-day  sun,  the 
sheets  of  rain  being  more  violent  and  frequent.  These 
rains  which  are  preceded  by  wind  storms  are  refresh- 
ing, serving  to  cool  the  parched  atmosphere  like  a 
grateful  shower  bath,  not  only  to  sweltering  humanity, 
but  to  all  inanimate  nature.  Every  one  carries  an 
umbrella  as  a  necessary  part  of  their  outfit  as  a  pro- 
tection during  the  day  from  the  rays  of  an  almost 
vertical  sun  and  in  the  evening  from  the  rains  or 
heavy  dews  which  fall  after  dark. 

Twilight  is  quite  unknown  in  this  latitude.  There 
are  no  romantic  gloamings,  but  instead  the  sable  cur- 
tain of  night  rolls  down  upon  the  bright  sunset  as  sud- 
denly as  that  upon  the  mimic  stage. 


50  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

During  the  year  there  are  innumerable  holidays 
known  as  festas  or  church  fetes,  peculiar  to  each 
locality.  The  anniversary  of  the  Patron  Saint  of  Para, 
known  as  our  Blessed  Lady  of  Nazareth,  is  inaugurated 
by  an  immense  procession,  followed  by  a  week  of  festiv- 
ities in  the  large  Plaza  of  Nazareth.  These  are  the 
only  evenings  in  the  entire  year  that  the  senhoritas 
are  permitted  to  promenade  alone  in  the  company  of 
the  senhors ;  and  it  goes  without  saying  that  the  senhors 
do  not  hesitate  to  ''embrace"  the  opportunities.  They 
are  like  the  rest  of  humanity  that  believe  ''opportuni- 
ties" should  not  be  neglected  but  taken  advantage  of. 

They  have  also  their  days  of  lugubrious  devotion. 
On  Good  Friday,  for  instance,  everybody  wears  black 
as  a  badge  of  mourning.  All  Souls  and  All  Saints  days 
are  devoted  to  tribute  to  their  dead,  the  graves  being 
decorated  during  the  day  with  flowers,  while  at  night 
the  cemeteries  are  made  to  look  like  an  illumination  by 
lighted  candles  placed  about  the  graves,  before  which 
are  silently  kneeling  the  scores  of  friends  of  the  de- 
parted. 

As  the  geographies  of  our  school  days  divide  the 
surface  of  the  earth  into  imaginary  lines  of  latitude 
and  longitude  with  temperate  and  intemperate  zones, 
the  medical  geographers  have  likewise  located  the 
zone  of  unhealthfulness  on  the  Equator,  as  an  endemic 
centre  liable  to  become  epidemic. 

.  As  a  matter  of  statistics,  the  death  rate  in  the  zone 
of  unhealthfulness  is  proportionately  less  than  that  of 
New  York  and  London. 

Malaria,  including  pernicious  fevers  of  all  sorts,  is 


HEALTHFULNEgg  51 

the  disease  which  prevails  in  badly  drained,  heavily 
timbered  locations.  It  is  estimated  that  this  is  the 
cause  of  one-half  the  mortality  of  the  human  kind. 
These  conditions  are  due  on  the  lower  Amazon  largely 
to  the  alternating  heat  and  humidity  of  the  atmosphere 
which  is  augmented  by  the  location  on  the  low  ground 
adjacent  to  the  settlements.  It  is  not  only  hot  every 
day  of  the  year,  but,  on  account  of  the  rains  almost 
every  evening  and  the  fact  of  being  practically  sur- 
rounded by  fresh  water,  is  correspondingly  damp 
every  night.  These  conditions  do  not  exist  on  the 
upper  Amazon. 

For  the  information  of  any  who  may  contemplate 
travel  to  the  Amazon  necessitating  passing  through 
the  valley  of  death  of  the  lower  regions  to  the  better 
land  beyond  or  above,  I  beg  to  reproduce  some  extracts 
from  a  consular  report  on  the  **  Health  of  the  lower 
Amazon,*'  which  it  was  not  considered  good  policy  for 
the  government  to  publish,  as  it  did  not  present  an 
especially  attractive  field  for  the  reciprocity  then  being 
agitated : 

**Febre  Amarella,  or  yellow  fever,  by  its  different 
aliases  is  the  disease  of  the  country.  It  is  caused  no 
doubt,  by  a  germ,  which  more  particularly  affects  the 
white  races,  and  has  for  a  long  time  puzzled  medical 
scientists.  It  was  discovered  by  Columbus,  or  rather 
it  discovered  Columbus  on  his  second  visit  to  the 
West  Indies,  as  historians  describe  the  breaking  out  of 
the  epidemic  during  their  return  to  Barcelona,  yet  in 
all  these  four  hundred  years  medical  scientists  have 
been  unable  to  locate  the  isolated  'baccilla,'  *bactera,' 
or  'microbe,*  or  whatever  it  might  be. 


52  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

*'It  is  said  yellow  fever  does  not  prevail  in  the 
Eastern  tropical  countries  or  in  Europe,  being  practi- 
cally unknown  in  India,  Asia  and  Africa. 

* '  For  information  on  yellow  fever  and  its  treatment  I 
am  under  obligations  to  Doctors  Jose  Paes  de  Cavalhi, 
at  present  Governor  of  Para,  and  Dr.  Jayme  P.  Bricio, 
both  for  many  years  successful  practitioners  in  Para 
where  they  have  handled  cases  every  day  for  years. 
Each  received  his  medical  education  in  Paris,  and 
speaking  English,  they  are  depended  upon  by  the 
foreign  colony  as  experts  in  yellow  fever.  I  am  also 
glad  of  an  opportunity  to  acknowledge,  at  this  late 
date,  the  courtesy  and  kindness  of  my  genial  Brazilian 
friend.  Colonel  Theodosio  Lacerda  Chermont  shown 
during  my  illness,  as  also  the  attendance  of  his  brother 
the  druggist,  and  Sr.  Watrin.  Col.  Chermont  is  a  large 
handsome  gentleman  of  the  best  connections,  his 
brother  formerly  Secretary  of  Legation  at  Washington 
and  later  Governor  and  Brazilian  Secretary  of  State, 
which  I  mention  to  indicate  the  character  of  my 
authority  for  the  following  statements. 

''The  Colonel  was  educated  at  Cornell  and  speaks 
well  the  English  language  and  has  a  warm  heart  for 
Americans. 

*'In  discussing  climatic  conditions  and  the  usual 
weather  salutations,  my  friend  enjoys  reminding 
Americans  that  though  Para  has  the  reputation  of 
being  hot,  the  mercury  does  not  rise  as  high  as  he  has 
seen  it  in  New  York  and  the  attention  of  scientists  is 
called  to  the  fact  that  a  case  of  sunstroke  has  never 
been  known  on  that  part  of  the  Equator.  He  insists 
^Iso  that  proportionately  there  are  more  deaths  from 


YELLOW  FEVER  53 

pneumonia  in  America  than  from  yellow  fever  in 
Brazil. 

**It  is  known  that  if  a  new  comer  exposes  himself  in 
the  sun,  and  should  become  wet  and  chilled  by  the 
evening  rains  and  retires  without  changing  under- 
clothes, omitting  to  take  the  usual  precautionary  bath 
of  cachasa  or  rum,  he  is  almost  certain  to  awaken  at 
daylight  with  dull  pains  in  the  back  of  his  head, 
intense  nausea,  which  are  the  unerring  first  symptoms 
of  the  dread  visit  of  yellow  jack. 

**  Unfortunately  the  attack  is  first  noticed  at  an  hour 
when  the  patient  is  probably  unable  to  get  assistance. 
It  is  understood  that  if  taken  in  time,  the  system 
thoroughly  cleansed  by  vomiting,  purging  and  injec- 
tions and  the  patient  kept  warmly  covered,  the  disease 
can  in  almost  every  case  be  controlled.  The  malady 
seems  to  be  a  complete  cessation  of  the  functions  of 
the  bowels,  kidneys  and  bladder,  resulting  in  rapid 
fermentation,  which  generates  a  poisonous  gas  and 
brings  about  the  convulsions  and  an  agonizing  death. 
As  long  as  the  bowels  and  kidneys  act  no  danger  is 
apprehended,  but  when  these  cease  the  physicians  give 
up  the  case. 

**0n  steamboats  or  in  the  forests  where  medical  aid 
cannot  be  obtained,  it  is  the  custom  to  cause  the  patient 
to  drink  repeated  doses  of  warm  water  as  an  emetic, 
until  the  resulting  vomit  shows  the  stomach  to  be 
thoroughly  rinsed. 

**A  peculiar  feature  or  characteristic  of  yellow  fever 
is  that  it  almost  always  selects  for  its  victims  those 
who  are  sometimes  designated  as  the  *good  young 
men*  that  come  to  Brazil  to  die  early.     It  is  indeed  a 


54  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

striking  coincidence  that  the  young  foreigners  of 
abstemious  habits,  who  live  economically  that  they  may 
send  their  savings  home,  are  sooner  or  later  called 
upon  to  settle  with  yellow  jack,  while  the  'bad  boys,' 
who  are  indifferent,  using  the  wine  of  the  country 
internally  and  spirits  externally,  indulging  freely  in 
the  best  food  the  country  affords,  almost  invariably 
escape  with  a  light  attack. 

''Aged  persons  have  nothing  to  fear,  which  is  at 
least  one  consolation  for  the  few  who  grow  old  in 
that  land.  The  only  time  I  was  pleased  to  be  toid  I 
was  not  a  boy  was  when  sick  in  Para  when  the  French 
proprietor  of  the  hotel  early  one  morning  sent  for  the 
doctor  to  visit  me.  I  could  hear  him  tell  the  doctor 
in  broken  English  '0,  zee  Consul  Americano,  he's 
plenty  sik,  blenty  sik,'  meaning  that  I  was  very  sick. 
When  the  jovial  doctor  came  into  the  room,  looked  at 
my  tongue,  felt  my  pulse  and  in  sympathy  with  my 
appealing  look,  which  meant,  have  I  a  chance  He 
replied  in  broken  English  that  sounded  very  sweet  to 
me  then,  'You  got  notting,  git  up,  you  are  too  old 
to  die.' 

"It  is  the  full  blooded  young  fellow  who  catches  it 
every  time,  a  characteristic  of  the  disease  being  similar 
to  typhoid,  that  whatever  lessens  natural  vigor,  tends 
also  to  immunity  from  yellow  fever.  As  prophylactic 
the  best  physicians  of  Para  actually  prescribe,  'Wine 
and  women,'  iced  champaign  being  used  freely  in  the 
course  of  this  heroic  treatment.  The  moral  is  that  the 
visitor  to  that  land  of  to-morrow  obtain  the  best  that 
he  can  get  as  part  compensation  for  the  danger  of  liv- 
ing there 


BERIBERI  55 

''It  is  not  yellow  fever,  however,  which  causes  the 
greatest  mortality  on  the  coast,  but  a  disease  peculiar 
to  that  part  of  Brazil  and  Equatorial  India  which  is 
known  as  Beri-Beri  (pronounced  Bery  Bery  approxi- 
mately). This  disease  has  baffled  the  skill  of  leading 
physicians  of  Para  and  Paris,  who  have  studied  it 
attentively.  Pasteir,  the  great  Frenchman,  sent  a 
scientist  out  to  make  an  investigation.  The  origin  of 
the  disease  is  unknown.  It  probably  developed  among 
the  lower  classes  by  insufficient  food,  but  frequently 
attacks  those  of  the  better  classes.  The  only  cure  is 
a  change  of  residence  or  an  ocean  voyage,  either  of 
which  taken  in  time  will  effect  a  speedy  recovery,  a 
peculiarity  being  that  the  patient  may  go  but  a  single 
day's  journey  to  a  place  where  the  disease  may  also 
prevail  and  recover. 

**  Beri-Beri  usually  begins  with  a  partial  paralysis  of 
the  lower  extremities  accompanied  by  numbness  and  a 
feeling  technically  called  by  these  physicians,  formica- 
tion. The  paralysis  gradually  extending  upwards  is 
attended  by  adamatous  swelling,  the  flesh  becoming  as 
pliable  as  putty,  leaving  an  indentation  made  by  one's 
finger  as  though  it  were  soft  clay.  At  first  the 
patient  feels  but  little  discomfort  aside  from  the  loss 
of  parts  affected.  His  appetite  and  spirits  continue 
good  but  the  breathing  grows  more  difficult  from  day 
to  day  the  paralysis  surely  advances  until  it  reaches 
the  vital  parts.  If  I'elief  is  not  obtained,  death  is 
caused  by  slow  suffocation.  Though  this  malady 
attacks  all  classes,  a  majority  of  the  victims  appear  to 
be  Africans  of  the  lower  class. 

**  Tubercular   consumption   is   necessarily   extensive 


56  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

with  the  lower  class  owing  to  the  want  of  care  and 
cleanliness  and  the  prevalence  of  venerial  diseases. 

**More  than  one  per  cent  of  the  registered  deaths 
in  Para  are  from  leprosy,  yet  it  is  not  considered  con- 
tagious and  no  efficient  means  are  taken  to  segregate 
the  lepers  from  the  rest  of  the  community,  it  being 
impossible  to  estimate  the  number  of  cases  concealed  by 
the  better  dressed  of  the  population. '  ^ 

As  previously  explained,  our  government  for  reasons 
of  policy,  did  not  care  to  publish  reports  even  though 
accepted  as  ''interesting  and  valuable"  that  might  dis- 
courage the  reciprocity  plans.  I  was  advised  that  the 
Rio  government  also  protested  against  publication, 
though  not  denying  the  facts.  The  British  government 
however,  referred  the  matter  of  leprosy  to  a  select  com- 
mittee for  investigation  in  connection  with  the  health- 
fulness  of  the  English  Equatorial  possessions,  through 
my  esteemed  colleague,  Mr.  Kanthack,  the  British 
Consul. 

The  purpose  in  introducing  the  excerpts  from  a 
health  report  has  been  to  give  a  truthful  story  of  both 
sides  of  life  in  the  land,  but  more  particularly  that  a 
comparison  may  be  made  between  the  unhealthful 
lower  Amazon  and  the  more  desirable  "Land  of  To- 
morrow," or  upper  Amazon,  whither  we  are  bound 
in  this  narrative. 

In  this  connection  I  may  be  permitted  to  quote  the 
concluding  words  of  a  first  official  report: 

*'It  will  be  evident  to  the  Department  that  the  publi- 
cation of  the  health  report  might,  in  a  personal  sense, 
add  to  the   unhealthfulness   of  Para   as   a   Consular 


A  HEALTH  REPORT  57 

residence  and  perhaps  serve  to  increase  the  mortality 
list. 

* '  I  therefore  take  the  opportunity  to  again  call  atten- 
tion to  my  request  for  relief  or  the  approval  of  my 
application  for  a  leave  of  absence,  with  authorization 
to  go  to  the  upper  Amazon  to  look  after  interests  of 
this  Consular  district." 

I  was  not  relieved,  however,  until  after  a  year's 
enforced  residence  and  while  very  ill  was  carried 
aboard  ship  in  a  hammock  bound  for  the  Madeira 
Islands  and  France  for  treatment  and  recuperation." 

Some  months  after,  the  journey  as  originally  planned 
was  resumed  to  **The  Land  of  To-Morrow,"  the  narra- 
tive which  really  begins  at  Para  and  ends  at  its  coun- 
terpart, Lima,  on  the  sunset  side  of  the  continent. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

ESPITE  the  climate  and  the  un- 
heaithful  surroundings,  the  visitor 
who  stays  long  enough  to  become 
acquainted  with  the  "delightfully 
wicked  city"  of  Para  becomes  a 
victim  to  that  peculiar  fascination 
that  attaches  to  tropical  life;  and 
though  the  discomforts  sometime 
cause  the  sojourner  a  sigh  for  a 
change  of  season,  they  leave  with  regret  and  almost 
invariably  experience  a  longing  to  return. 

As  previously  stated  all  travel  to  the  Amazon  is  via 
Para,  where  steamers  delay  a  couple  of  days  or  more, 
affording  a  tourist  sufficient  time  to  see  the  city  before 
proceeding  up  the  river. 

In  addition  to  the  New  York  and  Liverpool  steamers, 
are  the  Lloyd  Brazilerio  ships  that  come  up  from  Rio 
de  Janeiro  about  once  a  week,  and  extend  their  voyage 
a  thousand  miles  up  the  river  to  Manaos. 

Most  passengers  prefer  the  English  boats  because  of 
the  better  accommodations  and  speed,  making  no  stops 
in  Brazilian  territory  until  Manaos  is  reached. 

There  are  a  number  of  local  steamboat  companies 
that  operate  on  the  several  rivers,  some  of  which  go 
up  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  lower  Amazon,  as  local 
trading  boats  of  Para  merchants,  while  others  voyage 
2,000  or  3,000  miles  into  Peru  or  Ecuador  and  ascend 
the  affluents  to  Bolivia  in  the  south,  or  reach  to  the 

58 


AMAZON  STEAM  NAVIGATION  59 

borders   of  Venezuela   and   Colombia   on  the   north. 

The  Amazon  Steam  Navigation  Company,  an  English 
corporation  operating  over  fifty  steamboats,  sailing 
under  the  Brazilian  flag,  practically  controls  the  navi- 
gation of  the  Amazon. 

It  may  surprise  even  practical  shippers  by  water  to 
be  told  that  there  are  fifty  thousand  miles  of  inland 
navigation  comprised  in  the  Amazon  system,  with  its 
numerous  affluents  reaching  throughout  the  great 
Amazon  basin  from  the  Atlantic  to  Peru,  Bolivia, 
Ecuador  and  the  borders  of  Venezuela  and  Columbia. 
The  average  mileage  of  the  English  company  exceeds 
five  hundred  thousand  miles. 

The  local  fare  from  Para,  the  present  head  of  ocean 
going  boats,  to  Iquitos  in  Peru,  is  about  one  hundred 
dollars  of  our  money.  The  time  occupied  in  the  voy- 
age depends  on  the  steamer,  a  steamship  doing  it 
in  eight  or  ten  days,  while  a  steamboat  will  consume  a 
month  because  of  the  stops.  One  may  go  yet  another 
thousand  miles  beyond  Iquitos  in  comfortable  small 
steamboats  and  still  another  thousand  miles  in  steam 
launches  and  canoes. 

In  order  to  better  see  the  country  I  took  passage  on 
one  of  the  regular  river  boats  for  Manaos.  Through 
the  courtesy  of  the  manager  of  the  company  at  Para, 
Captain  Hudson,  the  Portuguese  captain  was  directed 
to  afford  me  all  possible  facilities.  My  ticket  reading 
to  "Sunset,"  was  the  genial  captain's  card  handed 
me  as  I  was  escorted  aboard  by  some  English  and 
Brazilian  friends. 

The  Amazon  boats  are  modeled  quite  similar  to  the 
bay  or  sound  steamers,  but  perhaps  they  show  a  more 


60  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

squatty,  English  model  of  greater  width  than  our 
river  or  bay  craft.  They  are  not  built  for  speed ;  time 
not  being  so  important  a  consideration  in  that  land  of 
repose  as  is  the  consumption  of  coal,  which  is  imported 
from  England  and  Wales  at  a  very  great  cost.  Wood 
fuel  may  be  had  for  the  asking  at  any  point,  the  forests 
crowding  the  shores  every  mile,  but  for  reasons  of 
policy,  coal  is  used  exclusively  and  brought  from  Eng- 
land, none  being  supplied  from  the  more  convenient 
sources  of  the  Mississippi.  Naturally  the  English  com- 
pany patronize  the  home  product 

The  boats  are  admirably  adapted  for  the  handling 
of  the  cargoes,  the  lower  decks  being  arranged  for 
storing  of  the  valuable  rubber  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
pirates,  and  the  carrying  in  bulk  of  Brazil  or  cream 
nuts,  cocoa  (not  cocoanuts)  and  other  solid  freights. 
The  after  decks  are  open  all  around  like  Mississippi 
River  cotton  boats,  where  cattle,  horses,  sheep  and  the 
native  laborers  are  carried.  The  steamers  are  built  in 
England,  fitted  with  Scotch  boilers  and  compound 
engines.  Those  running  on  the  main  streams  are  iron 
or  steel  hulls,  with  twin  screws;  whereas  the  smaller 
boats  that  ply  in  the  numerous  tributaries  are  pro- 
pelled by  patent  feathering  paddle  side  wheels,  that 
are  adapted  to  waters  where  there  is  no  ice.  Though 
the  boats  are  quite  as  large  as  our  river  craft,  the 
smallness  of  the  wheelhouse  and  width  make  them 
resemble  the  ** ducks"  they  are  sometimes  called. 

The  upper  decks  are  well  adapted  for  traffic  under 
the  Equator.  A  few  staterooms  are  located  in  the  centre 
open  on  each  side  to  a  roomy  promenade  deck.  There 
are  no  saloons,  the  tables  being  spread  on  the  after 


STEAMER  SERVICE  61 

deck,  under  awnings.  When  necessary  to  protect  this 
canvas  covered  saloon  from  a  driving  rain  or  wind 
storm,  or  to  shade  from  a  morning  or  evening  sunbeam, 
the  side  curtains  are  let  down. 

On  very  hot  afternoons  the  captain  becomes  a  rain 
maker,  cooling  the  roof  of  canvas  and  decks  by  what 
he  calls  ''ar-tiff-i-cal'^  (with  the  accent  on  the  'Hiff," 
artificial)  rain,  produced  by  the  steam  pump  and  hose. 

The  captain  or  commandante  (kom-man-dantee)  is 
a  very  important  personage.  He  occupies  a  room  for- 
ward adjoining  that  of  the  *'Escrieva"  or  clerk,  and 
convenient  to  the  **Immediato"  or  first  officer.  The 
half  dozen  small  rooms  are  occupied  by  ladies  or  the 
foreigners  who  have  not  learned  to  sleep  in  a  hammock. 

A  Brazilian  is  known  always  as  a  Brazileiro,  while  a 
citizen  of  Para  is  also  a  Paranense  and  a  resident  of  the 
adjoining  state  of  Amazonas  whither  we  are  bound,  is 
an  Amazonense. 

Whenever  a  citizen  of  the  upper  or  lower  class 
travels  he  invariably  packs  with  his  necessary  baggage 
a  hammock,  or  as  it  is  called  there,  a  ''rede,"  and 
never  forgets  the  mosquetare  or  netting  which  is 
arranged  to  spread  over  the  rede  as  a  canopy  for 
protection  from  the  mosquitoes  which  swarm  on  the 
boats  when  not  moving.  Literally  the  people  of  that 
land  take  up  their  beds  and  travel. 

Hooks  are  especially  arranged  on  all  steamboats  as 
in  the  houses,  for  convenient  swinging  of  redes.  The 
first  business  or  concern  of  a  passenger  when  aboard 
is  not  for  a  room  or  a  seat  at  the  captain's  table,  but 
to  select  the  most  desirable  place  to  hang  himself  up. 
They  do  not  wait  till  night,  but  at  once  stretch  their 


62  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

hammocks,  don  slippers  and  pajamas,  or  negligee  trav- 
elling costumes  and  otherwise  settle  themselves  for  a 
comfortable  trip.  During  the  long  days  they  lounge 
gracefully  in  their  redes,  smoking  cigarettes,  laughing 
and  chatting  incessantly  to  one  another  in  the  happy, 
childish  manner  peculiar  to  that  people.  If  it  becomes 
a  little  cool  at  night  or  the  moving  steamer  creates  too 
much  draught  for  their  thin  blood,  they  shiver  and  snug 
themselves  in  more  covering  like  a  bug  in  a  rug,  as  the 
Englishmen  call  the  travelling  shawls.  There  is  never 
any  contention  or  disturbance  in  a  mixed  company  of 
this  people.  All  may  sleep,  rocked  gently  by  the 
boats  swinging  the  hammocks,  or  lulled  by  the  rounds 
of  the  little  paddle  wheels. 

The  pilot  house  and  steering  wheel  are  located  well 
forward  in  the  bow  on  the  cabin  deck.  Each  boat  has 
one  or  two  short  masts  to  which  they  may  rig  a  sail 
when  desired.  There  are  no  coaling  stations  and  if  a 
boat  becomes  disabled  she  must  sail  or  drift  along  until 
a  passing  boat  comes  to  her  assistance. 

A  voyage  on  the  Amazon  is  very  much  like  being  at 
sea,  while  coasting  along  the  green  shores  of  tropical 
islands,  where  the  scenery  becomes  oppressively  beau- 
tiful by  reason  of  the  heat  and  quiet  solitude. 

The  course  of  the  boats  after  leaving  Para  is  through 
the  labryinths  of  cut-offs  and  the  Breves  channel  to 
the  main  river. 

Everj^  hour  of  the  day,  for  a  week,  seated  in  a 
reclining  steamer  chair  with  both  feet  on  the  rails,  one 
can  enjoy  a  beautiful  moving  panorama  of  rich  and 
gorgeous  foliage  in  coloring  and  outline  beyond  power 
of  description.    The  innumerable  tints  of  the  green  and 


SAILING  UP  THE  AMAZON  63 

the  bloom  seem  brighter  on  tropical  trees  than  on  shrub- 
bery. Dense  undergrowth  of  climbing,  clustirijig 
vines,  making  tangled  jungles  that  would  seem  to 
impede  tigers  and  jaguars  and  affording  protection  for 
snakes  and  creeping  things.  Above  it  rises  the  tall 
''castania*'  or  Brazil  nut,  on  which  monkeys  are  always 
to  be  found  feeding  on  the  fruit  that  grows  in  a  capsule. 
When  a  boat  passes  they  chatter  as  only  monkeys  can. 
There  are  always  in  sight  some  of  the  many  varieties  of 
the  palm.  Water  birds  are  plentiful,  especially  the 
crane,  from  which  the  valuable  aigrette  feathers  are 
obtained.  Parrots,  which  are  hunted  as  game,  fly 
high,  always  in  pairs,  while  the  parraquettes  go  in  im- 
mense flocks,  making  more  noise  than  blackbirds. 

The  dullness  is  sometimes  relieved  by  the  pilot  report- 
ing to  the  captain  **jackaree,*'  which  I  imagined  was 
some  sort  of  an  obstruction  as  it  caused  all  hands  some 
stir.  I  could  see  nothing  but  Avhat  appeared  like  a 
floating  log,  which  proved  to  be  an  alligator  which  the 
captain  fired  at  with  the  American  Winchester,  which 
all  pilots  carry  as  part  of  their  equipment.  It  is  no 
reflection  on  this  firearm  to  add  that  I  have  seen  hun- 
dreds of  shots  fired  at  them  but  not  once  did  I  have  the 
satisfaction  of  knowing  they  took  effect. 

There  are  thousands  of  miles  of  this  same  panorama, 
a  truly  moving  picture,  stretched  along  both  sides  of 
the  banks  of  the  great  yellow  river  from  the  ocean  to 
the  Andes,  varied  now  and  then  by  some  cacao  orchards 
that  appear  in  scattered  settlements,  after  the  first  five 
hundred  miles  of  the  lower  flood  plains  have  been 
passed. 

When  the  sun  drives  the  passengers  from  one  side  to 


64  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  other  they  see  precisely  the  same  scenery,  which  in 
a  degree  is  the  same  for  thousands  of  miles. 

Every  year  during  the  months  of  May  and  June  the 
water  is  unusually  high,  overflowing  the  adjoining  low 
lands  for  hundreds  of  miles.  Because  of  this  increased 
current  the  ascending  boat  is  compelled  to  hug  the 
shore  sometimes  so  closely  that  overhanging  branches 
of  the  trees  could  be  reached ;  but  we  were  practically 
out  of  sight  of  land  because  of  the  overflow,  except 
when  stopping  at  some  little  village  situated  on  an 
occasional   elevation. 

The  Amazon  does  not  impress  one  as  being  a  river. 
It  appears  more  like  journeying  on  an  inland  sea  where 
islands  are  as  plentiful  as  water.  Our  boat  seemed 
to  be  always  passing  through  some  short  cut  or 
channel.  The  islands  are  so  numerous  and  the  cut-offs 
so  frequent  that  the  main  land  is  seldom  in  sight.  Each 
time  I  enquired  I  was  told  the  boat  was  passing  an 
island.  Again  we  were  in  a  broad  expanse  of  yellow 
water  with  the  land  in  the  distance  like  a  bay,  and 
the  next  hour  in  a  cut-off  so  narrow  that  it  would  be 
dangerous  to  pass  a  boat  coming  down  the  rapid 
current. 

We  make  a  short  detour  into  one  of  the  rivers  to 
reach  the  town  of  Mt.  Alegre,  an  historic  settlement  on 
the  only  bit  of  high  ground  on  the  lower  Amazon, 
except  the  bluff  at  Santarem,  views  of  which  are 
shown. 

The  voyage  up  is  frequently  covered  in  half  the 
time  occupied  by  the  river  boats,  for  the  ocean  steamers 
with  their  greater  power  and  greater  draught  necessi- 
tating their  keeping  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  where 


AN  INLAND  SEA  65 

the  current  is  greater,  can  not  take  the  risk  of  the 
numerous  short  cuts  that  are  open  to  the  lighter 
draught  paddle-wheel  boats.  When  the  flood  is  at  its 
highest  it  is  possible  for  large  canoes  to  make  cut-offs 
through  the  forests,  or  **capo/*  as  it  is  called,  for  hun- 
dreds of  miles. 

I  repeat  one  mile  on  the  lower  Amazon  is  the  same  as 
a  thousand  and  every  day  is  alike  for  the  entire  voyage. 
It  is  the  same,  sea  of  forest,  dense,  pathless  and  impen- 
etrable and  when  covered  with  water  all  animal  nature 
is  driven  out,  the  solitude  is  as  dense  as  the  steamy 
humid  atmosphere. 

Following  the  bent  for  comparison,  it  may  be  said 
that  like  everything  else  in  the  way  of  customs  and 
climate,  even  the  topographical  features  are  reversed. 
The  forests,  instead  of  water,  cover  three-fourths  an 
area  as  pathless  as  the  ocean.  The  great  Amazon  out- 
lines a  mere  pathway  of  yellow  winding  through  an 
ocean  of  green  waving  foliage  that  seems  to  grow  out 
of  the  water. 

The  Amazon  basin  proper  has  never  been  explored. 
Notwithstanding  the  numerous  books  that  have  been 
published  in  all  languages  on  the  Amazon,  it  is  indis- 
putable that  the  writers  have  been  confined  in  their 
observations  to  what  they  have  been  able  to  discover 
from  the  decks  of  boats  or  obtained  second  hand  at  the 
landings. 

What  lies  beyond,  in  the  thousands  of  miles  of  unat- 
tempted  forest  reaching  to  the  mountainous  interior 
dividing  it  from  the  Plate  Valley  to  the  south,  no  man 
knows.  The  rivers  have  been  traversed  by  canoests, 
but  the  forests  have  been  an  impassible  barrier.    In 


66  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

that  land  of  rapid  growth  it  is  not  possible  to  maintain 
an  open  road.  It  is  said  of  the  hunters  and  naturalists 
that  the  pathway  they  blaze  in  one  day  the  next  day  is 
entirely  grown  up  behind  them.  The  Amazon  forests  to 
the  south  are  therefore  yet  a  sealed  book  whose  pages 
must  be  cut  and  turned  by  the  Stanley  of  "Equatorial 
America." 

The  few  settlements  of  rubber  gatherers  on  the 
lower  Amazon  are  built  upon  piles  to  protect  them  from 
the  annual  floods.  The  water  at  this  time  not  only 
encircles  the  houses  but  is  so  deep  that  the  use  of  a 
boat  is  required  when  the  inmates  want  to  visit  and 
feed  the  stock  which  collects  in  peaceful  droves  with 
wild  animals  on  any  convenient  high  ground.  It  is  this 
peculiar  condition  that  enables  the  native  to  capture 
wild  animals  weakened  by  starvation.  So  it  happens 
that  even  this  inconvenience  of  being  washed  out  of 
home  every  season,  results  in  the  return  of  his  bread 
cast  upon  the  w^aters.  The  floods  last  a  month  or  so 
and  it  is  said  the  waters  always  begin  to  recede  at  the 
same  day  and  hour  each  year,  which  is  known  as  St. 
John's  day. 

Santarem  (pronounced  in  the  Portuguese,  San-ta- 
raim),  is  a  beautifully  located  town  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Rio  Tapijos,  which  flows  from  the  south,  having 
its  source  in  the  mountains  of  Brazil.  The  water  is 
quite  clear  and  cooler  than  the  muddy  Amazon  into 
which  it  is  absorbed.  As  its  name  indicates,  this  is 
considered  a  healthful  location,  there  being  an  absence 
of  the  malaria  that  pervades  the  Amazon  below,  and 
strange  as  it  may  appear,  yellow  fever  is  unknown.  But 
notwithstanding  its  favorable  location  the  American 


ATTEMPTED  AMERICAN  SETTLEMENT      67 

colony  of  Southerners  who  settled  there  after  the  war, 
has  been  altogether  unfortunate.  Mr.  Rhome,  the 
wealthy  Southern  planter  and  leader  of  the  enterprise, 
who  so  hospitably  entertained  the  American  visitors 
on  the  beautiful  hillside  near  Santarem,  became  a  men- 
tal and  physical  wreck  after  several  years'  residence 
there,  as  described  in  an  illustrated  article  in  an 
American  magazine  some  years  ago. 

One  of  the  saddest  features  of  a  residence  on  the 
lower  river  is  that  continuous  residence  without  an 
occasional  change  of  scene,  weakens  mentally  as  well 
as  physically  the  hardiest  Anglo-Saxon. 

The  English  managers  of  the  transportation  and 
other  business,  recognizing  this  condition,  have  wisely 
stipulated  with  those  they  bring  out  from  England, 
that  each  person  shall  be  required  to  visit  his  home  once 
in  every  two  or  three  years,  a  vacation  of  six  months 
being  given  to  all  English  employees  who  serve  in 
Brazil. 

An  exploration  of  the  Tapijos  to  the  south  might  be 
as  interesting  as  that  of  the  rivers  to  the  west.  In  this 
direction  is  a  species  of  Brazilian  ant  more  vicious 
than  the  Indians  and  so  numerous  that  they  actually 
compelled  the  abandonment  of  an  Indian  village,  the 
empty  houses  of  which  are  still  standing.  Though  I 
am  only  vouching  for  the  things  I  have  seen,  I  believe 
this  is  no  exaggeration,  as  I  have  had  experience  with 
ants  which  justifies  this  opinion. 

At  Obidos,  a  point  a  little  beyond  Santarem,  I  have 
been  in  the  old  Spanish  fort,  which  the  mosquitoes 
compelled  the  Brazilian  soldiers  to  evacuate.  This 
work  covering  acres  of  ground  of  massive  masonry  was 


e^  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

abandoned  on  account  of  the  pests,  who  attacked 
viciously,  armed  only  with  the  weapons  provided  by 
nature.  It  is  proper  to  explain  that  there  was  no  mil- 
itary necessity  for  the  garrison  remaining  in  the  fort, 
the  walls  of  which  kept  the  breezes  from  driving  the 
pests  away,  so  they  camped  outside  the  walls,  and  the 
mosquitoes  held  the  fort. 

Obidos  (pronounced  0-bi-doss,  the  accent  on  the 
**doss,"  which  has  become  sort  of  a  pass  word,  the  man- 
ner of  pronunciation  detecting  the  stranger,  who 
accents  the  "bi")  is  the  dividing  line  between  the  States 
of  Para  and  Amazonas,  of  North  Brazil,  each  of  which 
maintain  an  independent  sovereignity.  It  is  five  hun- 
dred miles  above  Para,  but  even  at  this  great  distance, 
the  influence  of  the  Atlantic  tides  is  felt.  It  is  the  only 
point  on  the  big  river  where  both  banks  of  the  Amazon 
may  be  seen  at  the  same  time.  Though  the  river  at 
this  point  is  not  so  wide  as  at  other  places,  there  is 
such  an  immense  depth  that  the  entire  volume  of  water 
flows  rapidly  between  the  banks. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  the  country  below 
Obidos,  including  the  numerous  islands,  tributaries 
and  main  stream,  is  known  as  the  *' Lower  Amazon" 
rubber  territory.  Beyond  Obidos,  including  the  Ma- 
deira and  Purus  Rivers,  extending  to  Bolivia  and  Peru 
is  an  immense  rubber  territory,  but  at,  and  above 
Obidos,  on  the  main  stream  the  rubber  has  been 
exhausted  and  labor  is  being  diverted  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  cocoa,  which  is  becoming  important  and 
may  in  time  replace  the  rubber  industry. 

The  Madeira,  the  principal  river  of  this  section,  flow- 
ing from  the  south,  being  a  continuation  below  the  falls 


MADEIRA  AND  NIGRO  69 

of  Mamore  and  Madre  de  Dios  of  Bolivia,  enters  the 
Amazon  at  a  point  with  the  big  name  Itiocuitara(  pro- 
nounced **Iteo-quat-you  are-a"),  which  means  painted 
rocks. 

It  is  located  a  few  miles  below  the  confluence  of  the 
Nigro  that  has  its  rise  in  Venezuela  and  Columbia, 
making  at  these  junctions  broad  expanse  of  water 
resembling  a  bay. 

A  few  miles  above  the  confluence  of  the  big  rivers 
is  the  inland  city  of  Manaos,  occupying  geographically 
and  otherwise  relatively  the  same  position  to  the 
Amazon  that  St.  Louis  does  to  the  Mississippi. 

On  the  morning  of  the  eighth  day  the  slow  going 
Amazon  boat  enters  the  black  waters  of  the  Rio  Negro 
on  which  Manaos  is  situated,  anchoring  in  the  harbor 
that  is  six  miles  wide,  one  thousand  miles  from  the 
Atlantic. 


CHAPTER  V. 

ANAOS  is  not  a  new  city,  having  been 
founded  by  the  Jesuits  in  1667,  but 
it  did  not  attain  to  the  dignity  of  a 
settlement  until  1755.  It  is  built  upon 
the  gentle  slopes  of  seven  hills  and  is 
well  laid  out.  The  main  street  is  a 
broad,  well  paved  thoroughfare  rising  at  a  moderate 
grade  and  extending  to  a  driveway  which  leads  through 
a  beautiful  suburb  and  park  on  the  surrounding  hills. 
Many  of  the  business  streets  along  the  water  front  are 
conveniently  low  for  the  handling  of  the  heavy  traffic, 
yet  higher  than  the  resident  part  of  Para.  The  busi- 
ness houses  also  in  the  downtown  section,  are  larger 
and  architecturally  superior,  being  generally  of  more 
modern  style.  The  residences  are  modeled  after  the 
European  plan  and  are  more  pleasing  to  the  eye  of  the 
American  visitor  than  the  monotonous  Portuguese 
architecture.  A  number  of  fine  streets  cross  the  main 
thoroughfare  at  right  angles,  forming  the  usual  city 
blocks,  instead  of  the  straggling  crooked  and  narrow 
streets. 

Manaos  is  the  capital  of  the  large  State  of  Amazonas, 
comprising  an  area  greater  than  the  State  of  Para.  It 
is  not  possible  to  give  any  correct  data  as  to  population, 
there  being  no  reliable  census  returns  available,  but  the 
city  is  estimated  to  contain  about  half  the  population  of 
Para,  and  rapidly  growing. 

No  amount  of  enquiry  at  Para  will  develop  anything 
70 


THE  ST.  LOUIS  OF  AMAZONIA  71 

favorable  to  its  rival  city;  in  fact,  correct  information 
cannot  be  obtained  of  the  interiors,  at  any  of  the  coast 
cities  of  Brazil.  The  business  people,  desiring  to  con- 
centrate the  trade  at  Para,  are  exceedingly  jealous  of 
the  rapid  encrouchments  of  the  inland  town  upon  their 
old  time  monopoly  of  the  trade  of  the  valley. 

Like  Para,  its  principal  business  is  in  the  handling 
of  the  rubber  which  comes  down  the  several  rivers  in 
small  boats  or  large  canoes  and  here,  after  paying  the 
export  duty,  municipal  and  other  charges  for  the  State 
of  Amazonas,  it  is  marketed  and  reloaded  into  the 
ocean  steamers,  sailing  directly  to  foreign  ports. 
Articles  from  up-river  districts  do  not  pay  tribute  at 
Manaos  or  Para  unless  handled  on  Brazilian  soil. 

Cacao  (pronounced  ** Cow-cow"),  which  is  being  ex- 
tensively cultivated  along  the  rivers  adjacent  to 
Manaos,  is  brought  to  this  market  in  large  quantities  by 
the  small  boats.  The  business  of  supplying  chocolate 
for  confections  and  as  a  beverage  bids  fair  to  equal  the 
coifee  industry  of  South  Brazil.  Castanhas  or  nuts, 
hides,  balsams,  and  corresponding  natural  tropical  pro- 
ducts are  shipped  directly  to  the  Brooklyn  wharves. 

Though  we  consume  an  enormous  quantity  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  Amazon,  but  little  is  done  to  advance 
American  trade  in  exchange. 

Altogether  Manaos  is  a  pleasant  surprise  to  the  vis- 
itor who  has  heard  it  decried  at  Para,  both  as  regards 
location,  business  and  social  features.  Probably  the 
climate  is  even  hotter  than  at  Para,  if  it  were  possible 
to  get  nearer  the  sun  than  under  the  Equator.  Being 
so  far  interior,  Manaos  does  not  enjoy  the  refreshing 
evening  rains  that  come  up  from  the  ocean  and  cool  the 


72  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

air,  consequently  the  nights  are  hot,  but  not  so  damp. 
Occasionally  they  have  yellow  fever  which  in  most 
cases  is  brought  to  the  city  by  boatmen  who  contract  it 
on  the  low  lands  or  by  exposure  to  the  alternating  heat 
and  dampness. 

Manaos  has  excellent  water,  gas  and  electric  plants, 
telephone  exchange,  several  clubs  and  a  driving  park 
for  horse  racing  after  church  on  Sunday  afternoon, 
instead  of  bull-fighting. 

Unlike  Para,  where  the  English  colony  dominates  the 
business,  the  foreign  traders  and  merchants  are  prin- 
cipally German,  with  a  large  sprinkling  of  Jews.  At 
the  date  of  my  several  visits  there  was  not  a  single 
American  resident. 

Socially  the  Manuense  are  fully  up  to  the  standard  of 
the  Paranense.  In  musical  culture,  they  probably  excel 
them  by  reason  of  the  number  of  educated  Germans, 
most  of  whom  are  accomplished  musicians  and  perhaps 
because  of  their  isolation,  they  devote  more  time  to 
the  practice  of  the  music  of  the  fatherland.  At  Para 
the  music  is  of  the  Italian  school.  The  swell  social  club 
named  the  Club  Limitado,  which  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
visiting  is  quite  on  a  par  with  the  delightful  and  very 
select  Assemblae  Paranense. 

There  is  also  the  inevitable  Cathedral  and  an  Opera 
House,  both  patronized  by  the  people,  and  the  same 
attention  is  given  to  religious  festas. 

It  happened  that  on  July  4th,  the  birthday  of  liberty 
on  the  North  American  continent,  which  has  spread 
over  the  Southern,  I  was  in  Manaos,  where  we  cele- 
brated in  the  genial  society  of  a  Scotch  gentleman  who 
was  the  United  States  Consular  Agent  at  that  point. 


FOURTH  OF  JULY  ON  AMAZON     73 

The  Stars  and  Stripes  floated  languidly  in  the  hot 
sun,  and  in  compliment  to  our  own  and  the  American 
visitor,  the  officials  of  Brazil  displayed  theirs  as  also  did 
the  French  Vice  Consul,  who  was  the  proprietor  of  the 
hotel.  As  an  evidence  of  advanced  civilization  it  may 
be  said  that  one  can  pay  as  large  hotel  bills  per  day 
on  the  European  plan  as  at  the  swellest  American 
hostel  ries. 

Para  has  been  compared  to  New  Orleans  because  of 
its  low  situation  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  its 
surroundings  of  fresh  water.  Comparisons  may  be 
carried  further  and  just  as  appropriately  by  calling 
Manaos  the  St.  Louis  of  this  valley.  Like  the  western 
city  Manaos  is  1,000  miles  from  the  mouth,  being  situate 
in  the  very  heart  of  the  great  Amazon  Valley.  It  is 
the  geographical  centre  of  commence,  admirably 
adapted  by  nature  for  the  collection  and  distribution 
of  the  products  of  the  most  productive  section  of  the 
earth's  surface. 

Ships  may  sail  directly  from  Manaos  to  St.  Louis,  via 
Para  and  New  Orleans  and  vice-versa,  laden  with  the 
different  products  of  each  for  exchange.  Though  the 
Amazon  is  deeper  it  is  entirely  practicable  for  boats 
that  can  go  to  St.  Louis  to  navigate  the  gulf  and  go 
even  a  thousand  miles  beyond  Manaos,  in  several  direc- 
tions. 

It  is  about  one  thousand  miles  due  west  to  the  head 
of  steamship  navigation  at  Iquitos  in  Peru,  another 
thousand  miles  north  by  the  Nigro  to  Venezuela, 
Columbia  and  the  Carribian  Sea  by  canal  over  the 
portage  or  channel  connecting  the  Amazon  and  the 
Orinoco. 


74  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  Madeira,  like  our  Missouri,  enters  the  Amazon  a 
short  distance  below  Manaos.  Steamboat  navigation 
to  the  south,  extends  to  the  Falls  of  Mamore,  500  miles 
distant,  thence  by  canoe  portage  over  and  around  the 
falls,  above  which  there  is  navigation  another  1,000 
miles  on  the  rivers  Beni  and  Madre  de  Dios  throughout 
the  rich  cis-andine  Bolivia,  the  tributaries  reaching  to 
the  southwestern  Andes  and  the  great  divide  which 
separates  the  Amazon  Valley  from  the  unknown  Motto- 
Grosso  land  in  which  arises  the  Plate. 

The  large  river  Purus  (Poo-roos)  emptying  into  the 
Amazon  above  Manaos,  is  navigable  for  large  boats  far 
into  the  southwest  beyond  the  borders  of  Peru. 

Unfortunately  Manaos  is  situated  up  the  Nigro  some 
six  miles,  off  the  Amazon  proper,  which  compels  the 
immense  traffic  down  stream,  from  the  large  affluents 
like  the  Madeira,  Purus  and  Upper  Amazon,  to  ascend 
the  Nigro  for  their  clearing  papers  to  the  custom  house 
for  the  State  of  Amazonas  which  collects  the  tribute 
of  all  rivers  above  Obidos. 

There  has  been  some  agitation  in  favor  of  moving 
the  ancient  capital  of  Manaos  six  miles  below  to  the 
junction  of  the  Amazon,  which  is  the  Cairo  of  the 
valley. 

The  American  traveller  to  those  countries  finds  it 
difficult  to  adapt  himself  to  the  annoyances  resulting 
from  the  visits  of  custom  house  and  health  officials  of 
each  state  and  the  governments  of  Ecuador,  Bolivia 
and  Peru.  The  hungry  officials  swarm  about  every  ship 
like  sharks.  It  is  apparent  that  the  existence  of  the 
several  governments  depend  upon  the  revenues  they 
exact  from  the  export  duty  on  the  indigenous  products 


BRAZILIAN  STATE  RIGHTS  75 

supplied  to  foreign  countries.  The  import  duties  levied 
are  greater  than  are  collected  by  the  most  despotic  of 
governments.  In  order  to  increase  the  income,  the 
petty  officials  resort  to  all  sorts  of  tricks,  imposing 
fines  and  penalties  for  the  most  trivial  violations  of 
their  tyrannical  regulations.  This  is  especially  the 
case  where  ships  of  other  nations  have  contracts  with 
the  Brazilian  government  for  certain  services  for  which 
they  have  a  promise  of  a  subsidy. 

Another  of  the  difficulties  attending  navigation  is 
the  Brazilian  law  requiring  vessels  carrying  their  flag 
to  be  manned  exclusively  by  citizens  of  Brazil.  The 
pilots  as  a  rule  are  half-breed  Indian  Brazileiros  and 
each  boat  carries  two  young  Brazilian  apprentices,  the 
purpose  being  to  keep  the  control  of  the  navigation  in 
the  hands  of  the  natives.  However,  their  patriotism 
does  not  go  deeper  than  their  pocket,  as  the  native 
prefers  service  on  a  foreign  vessel. 

The  Amazon  Steam  Navigation  Company,  with  a  cash 
capital  of  over  seven  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling, 
is  crippled  by  the  whims  and  exasperating  conditions 
imposed  upon  the  management.  A  prominent  official 
told  me  it  would  be  equal  to  an  increase  of  twenty-five 
per  cent  if  they  could  man  their  boats  with  English 
captains. 

Yet  in  the  face  of  these  difficulties  the  company  is 
doing  a  most  profitable  business,  being  able  to  earn 
dividends  in  the  depreciated  currency  sufficient  to 
enable  them  to  remit  gold  to  London,  though  their  con- 
tracts are  on  the  basis  of  the  Brazilian  currency,  the 
rate  of  exchange  having  decreased  to  less  than  half 
that  which  ruled  when  the  contracts  were  made. 


76  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

I  have  mentioned  all  this  business  from  data  gained 
as  Consul,  to  point  the  moral ;  that  there  is  a  very  large 
field  at  home,  as  it  were,  to  advance  American  trade 
and  transportation  from  the  Southern  ports  of  New 
Orleans  and  Mobile  and  that  it  is  better  not  to  depend 
on  subsidies,  which  are  sometimes  an  encumbrance,  ex- 
pressing the  hope  that  the  American  flag  will  someday 
be  welcomed  on  the  Amazon.     It  is  not  seen  there  now. 

Though  the  Amazon  was  ostentatiously  declared  free 
to  all  nations  in  1866,  yet  few  seem  to  know  that  the 
decree  of  Dom  Pedro  II  only  applies  to  that  part  of 
the  river  known  in  Brazil  as  the  Amazon  proper,  with  a 
subsequent  qualification  as  to  the  Madeira  in  favor  of 
Bolivia. 

The  numerous  and  important  tributaries  and  affluents 
which  of  themselves  are  equal  in  size  to  the  main 
stream,  being  far  more  valuable  in  resources  than  the 
main  river,  are  not  free  to  all  nations  and  can  only 
be  navigated  by  ships  carrying  the  Brazilian  flag, 
unless  negotiations  have  been  made  by  treaty,  granting 
privileges  in  certain  directions.  When  one  recalls  that 
of  the  fifty  thousand  miles  of  navigation,  less  than  five 
thousand  of  which  is  included  under  the  name  of  the 
Amazon,  the  importance  of  the  restriction  will  be 
apparent. 

The  Brazilians  have  a  capricious  way  of  changing  the 
names  of  their  rivers,  just  as  they  do  of  their  presidents 
and  emperors.  The  streets  are  also  given  names  of  the 
latest  hero  or  the  date  of  some  political  episode.  Some 
of  the  street  nomenclature  comprise  short  sentences 
and  rivers,  brief  prayers  or  the  elongated  names  of 
patron  saints. 


CHANGE  NAMES  OF  RIVERS  77 

Recent  geographies  and  maps  made  in  Rio  de  Janeiro 
indicate  the  Amazon  as  only  the  thousand  miles  of  river 
between  Manaos  and  the  sea,  flowing  north  of  the 
Island  of  Marajo.  That  part  west  of  the  junction  with 
the  Negro  always  known  as  the  upper  Amazon,  being 
named  by  Brazilian  officials  the  ''Solimoes."  This 
would  place  Manaos  as  well  as  Para  outside  of  the 
limit  of  free  navigation  in  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro's 
decree,  as  Para  is  off  the  main  stream  as  well  as  Manaos. 
Despite  the  makers  of  geographies  in  Rio,  the  mighty 
Amazon  retains  its  name  from  the  Atlantic  to  its  very 
sources  in  the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Andes. 

It  is  a  matter  of  international  law  that  the  govern- 
ments and  people  of  interior  states  are  entitled  to  free 
navigation  to  the  ocean  on  streams  that  have  their  rise 
in  their  country,  which  permits  access  to  Eastern  Peru, 
Bolivia  and  Ecuador  by  the  Amazon,  under  whatever 
name  it  may  be  called. 

It  is  within  the  range  of  probabilities  that  the  north- 
ern mouth  of  the  Amazon,  when  properly  surveyed,  will 
prove  to  be  the  better  outlet  for  the  immense  trade 
from  the  upper  Amazon,  comprising  the  vast  area  of 
Eastern  Peru,  Bolivia  and  Ecuador  and  affording  a 
back  door  for  Venezuela  and  Columbia.  This  would  not 
only  shorten  the  distance  very  considerably  to  New 
York  and  Europe,  but  would  afford  the  advantages  of 
the  outward  currents  leading  to  the  Gulf  Stream.  Para 
and  Manaos,  being  placed  off  the  main  river  by  their 
own  acts,  could  not  object  to  being  shunted.  This 
short  cut  would  not  only  bring  the  Amazon  closer  to 
the  gulf  and  the  Mississippi,  but  would  also  avoid  the 
tutelage  m^  exasperating  delays  at  Manaos  and  Para. 


78  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

There  is  no  friction  or  jealousy  between  the  people 
of  the  lower  and  upper  Amazon,  as  between  the  Brazil- 
ians and  their  neighboring  States  of  Peru,  Bolivia  and 
Ecuador,  except  perhaps  in  the  way  of  rivalry  on  the 
pursuit  of  the  business  of  collecting  and  marketing 
rubber.  Their  interests  are  identical  throughout  the 
entire  valley,  the  natural  outlet  for  all  being  down  the 
stream  to  the  world  and  civilization. 

The  interests  of  North  Brazil,  or  Amazonia,  are 
entirely  distinct  from  those  of  South  Brazil,  from 
which  they  are  separated  by  the  thousands  of  miles  of » 
pathless  forest,  leading  to  the  Matto  Grasso  or  interior^ 
regions.  The  governments  of  Brazil  know  very  little 
about  their  interior,  being  content  with  the  reports 
made  of  explorations  along  the  rivers. 

The  only  communication  between  North  and  South 
Brazil  is  by  the  2,000  miles  of  Atlantic  coast  line,  which 
below  the  Amazon,  runs  due  east  and  west  for  a 
thousand  miles  before  turning  south  at  Pernambuco, 
the  most  easterly  point. 

The  only  communication  is  by  steamer  along  this 
coast  or  by  the  cables  that  follow  the  route  so  that 
the  capital  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  is  practically  in  another 
part  of  the  world. 

The  same  conditions  exist  between  Peru  and  its 
possessions  in  eastern  Amazonia,  the  three  ranges  of 
the  Andes  separating  *' fluvial  Amazonas"  from  the 
home  government  at  Lima. 

Bolivia  is  hemmed  in  the  interior,  being  refused  an 
outlet  on  the  Pacific  by  Chili,  while  parts  of  Ecuador 
and  Venezuela  are  in  the  same  condition. 

The  interests  of  all  this  immense  region  are  quite  dis- 


A  REPUBLIC  OF  AMAZONIA  79 

tinct  from  their  separate  home  governments,  which  are 
of  course  concerned  in  the  collection  of  the  revenues 
only.  The  people  of  this  ''Land  of  To-Morrow"  are 
realizing  that  they  get  but  slight  return  for  the  immense 
sums  collected  in  their  district  by  the  officials  sent 
among  them  from  the  home  government.  Nothing  is 
expended  for  improving  conditions,  the  land  being 
simply  drained  for  the  benefit  of  officials. 

It  was  these  conditions  that  brought  about  the 
"Acre"  dispute,  recently  settled  by  Brazil  paying  a 
large  sum  to  Bolivia  and  granting  concessions  in  the 
way  of  an  outlet  via  the  Amazon. 

There  will  always  be  the  everlasting  boundary  dis- 
putes between  these  several  governments,  that  can  only 
be  settled  by  the  different  States  uniting  in  one  govern- 
ment, combining  the  millions  of  square  miles  that  may 
be  bound  on  the  east  by  the  Atlantic,  the  west  by  the 
Andes  and  north  and  south  by  impassible  forests. 

The  foreign  element  with  that  of  the  native  of  the 
country,  does  not  hesitate  to  discuss  this  matter  openly. 
There  is  considerable  friction  between  the  various  state 
and  general  governments  regarding  the  expenses  as 
well  as  antagonism  between  the  State  volunteers  and 
the  regulars. 

It  is  pointed  out  that  a  single  gunboat  could  blockade 
the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  or  a  few  torpedoes  protect 
the  entrance,  while  a  small  force  on  the  passes  of  the 
Andes  could  defend  themselves  as  long  as  their  ammu- 
nition held  out,  and  thus  a  small  force  could  compel 
recognition  from  the  nations  of  the  earth  who  are 
dependent  upon  the  natural  product  of  rubber,  cacao, 
nuts,  materia  medica,  etc. 


80  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  establishment  of  ''Rubber"  Republic  of  Ama- 
zonia, in  *'The  Land  of  To-Morrow,"  comprising  the 
richest  area  on  the  surface  of  the  earth,  may  be  the 
means  of  realizing  the  dream  of  the  native,  that  they 
are  waiting  for  the  ''Manana"  which  is  to  bring  the 
Anglo-Saxon  to  develop  ''La  tierra  de  Manana." 

•The  reader  who  may  be  interested  in  immigration  to 
the  Amazon,  or  the  agricultural  possibilities  as  well  as  the 
rubber  industry,  is  referred  to  the  Consular  reports  on  these 
subjects,  which  may  be  obtained  from  Department  of  State 
through  application  to  a  Congressman,  it  not  being  advis- 
able to  burden  this  narrative  with  detail  of  official  reports.. 

A  proposed  book,  entitled  in  the  Portuguese,  "O,  Consul 
Americano  Na  Amazonas,"  to  which  this  is  a  sequel,  details 
social  and  ofllcial  life  as  Consul. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

^^"'"'"^"^^^^HE  second  thousand  miles  of  the  alto 
or  upper  does  not  differ  materially 
from  the  first  thousand  miles  of  the 
bajo  or  lower  Amazon.  The  traveller 
along  the  coast  of  Brazil,  who  has 
ascended  the  hundred  miles  from  the 
bocco  or  mouth,  to  Para,  has  seen 
from  the  deck  of  the  moving  ship  pre- 
cisely the  same  panorama  of  low  lying  dense  tropical 
forest  of  green,  fringing  a  broad,  yellowish  band  of 
water,  that  stretches  like  a  ribbon  of  yellow,  through 
nearly  five  thousand  miles  of  forest  to  the  Andes. 

The  one  feature  which  surprises  the  traveller  is  that 
the  farther  he  gets  from  the  mouth  the  wider  the  river 
appears  to  grow.  There  is  considerable  difference  in 
the  speed  of  the  boats  plying  above  and  below.  Those 
on  the  lower  river  can  do  the  thousand  miles  in  half 
the  time  it  takes  to  cover  the  same  mileage  above. 
There  are  less  currents  below,  because  the  tides  from 
the  Atlantic  back  the  water  in  twice  a  day  for  nearly 
five  hundred  miles.  Perhaps,  too,  the  boats  on  the 
upper  river  make  more  frequent  landings  and  the  stop 
of  an  Amazon  steamboat  at  even  the  most  insignificant 
hamlet  means  a  delay  of  at  least  half  a  day  and  per- 
haps twenty-four  hours,  according  to  the  social  inclina- 
tion of  the  officers. 

Most  of  the  settlements  or  landings  seem  to  be  located 
on  the  numerous  affluents,  a  few  miles  off  the  main 

81 


82  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

stream,  originally  as  a  means  of  concealment  or  safety 
perhaps,  but  now  quite  inconvenient  for  the  through 
passenger  anxious  to  get  to  the  journey  ^s  end. 

That  we  are  all  children  of  a  larger  growth,  applies 
distinctively  to  the  Brazileiro.  However  old  or  exper- 
ienced he  may  become  the  Brazilian  remains  a  boy  in  his 
manner  of  conducting  business,  and  when  vested  with  a 
little  brief  authority,  as  for  instance  the  command  of 
an  English  steamboat,  he  makes  a  veritable  Pinafore  of 
it.  They  seem  to  have  but  a  faint  conception  of  the 
rights  of  others.  With  them  a  public  office  is  not  a 
public  trust  but  solely  an  opportunity  for  private  gain. 

There  are  well  authenticated  incidents  to  prove  that 
captains  of  Amazon  steamers  have  throAvn  overboard  or 
landed  in  the  woods,  cargo  shipped  by  an  enemy  or 
consigned  to  a  rival.  They  exercise  absolute  tyranny, 
taking  only  such  passengers  as  are  personally  agreeable 
to  themselves  or  friends.  It  does  not  occur  to  the  old 
time  Amazon  skipper  that  a  passenger  who  has  paid 
his  fare  could  possibly  have  any  rights  which  he  is 
bound  to  respect. 

No  matter  how  urgent  the  business  of  the  passenger, 
if  the  captain  should,  as  frequently  occurs,  be  in  love 
with  a  pretty  half-breed  girl  living  in  a  hut  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  he  will  anchor  the  boat  in  the 
stream  from  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours  while  he  is 
ashore  making  love  to  his  enamorita,  leaving  the  pas- 
sengers on  board  to  fight  mosquitoes.  It  is  not  difficult 
to  find  some  excuse,  like  the  need  of  repairs  or  business 
ashore,  to  quiet  the  mutinous  spirit  of  the  passengers 
who  are  indignant  because  they  are  not  permitted  to 


STEAMER  JOAN  ALFREDO  83 

land  also.  This  is  not  so  much  the  practice  at  the 
present  time  as  formerly. 

I  was  fortunate  in  making  the  voyage  on  the  upper 
Amazon  on  the  steamer  Joan  Alfredo,  with  Captain 
Carlos  Ferrera,  who  by  reason  of  his  efficient  service, 
was  the  commodore  of  the  English  company's  fleet,  to 
whom  the  reader  is  indebted  for  valuable  information 
and  myself  for  numerous  courtesies. 

Our  commandante  in  personal  appearance  may  be 
described  as  a  middle  aged  gentleman  of  military 
bearing,  who  in  few  words  spoken  in  a  mild  tone  of 
voice,  enforced  strictly  naval  discipline  aboard  his  boat. 

The  Joan  Alfredo,  which  came  up  from  Para  on  her 
regular  monthly  voyage  to  Iquitos,  was  an  iron  hull, 
twin  screw  of  English  build,  with  triple  expansion 
engine,  fitted  with  all  modern  appliances,  drawing 
twelve  feet  of  water. 

As  indicating  the  extent  of  this  Amazon  traffic  into 
the  far  interior,  which  this  well  equipped  company's 
fleet  and  other  lines  are  unable  to  handle,  I  noticed 
that  the  Joan  Alfredo  had  in  tow  a  large  hulk  or  barge, 
in  the  capacious  hold  of  which  another  steamboat  load 
of  cargo  was  stored,  with  lighter  freight  on  top.  In 
addition  we  were  towing  by  stern  lines  two  small 
steam  launches,  to  be  used  by  private  parties  in  the 
upper  affluents  for  distributing  goods  and  collecting 
rubber. 

Our  own  upper  decks  were  crowded  with  cargo  to 
the  inconvenience  of  fifty-two  first  class  passengers, 
while  below  were  over  sixtj''  laborers  bound  for  the 
rubber  swamps  who  swung  their  redes  and  took  their 
meals  on  the  same  deck  with  horses,  sheep  and  cattle. 


84  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  captain  ^s  wife  and  four  or  five  children  with 
their  governess,  nurse  and  man  servant,  were  aboard 
en  route  to  the  mountains  of  Peru  for  the  benefit  of 
the  wife's  health.  The  children,  of  whom  the  captain 
was  very  fond,  were  quite  healthy  and  made  themselves 
numerous  over  the  decks.  When  the  captain  was  not 
occupied  he  played  cards  with  the  passengers  or  shot 
at  jackarees  with  his  Winchester. 

On  the  voyage  up  the  lower  river  there  was  not  a 
single  lady  passenger,  while  on  this  trip  above  we 
had  fully  as  many  senhoras  and  senhoritas  as  senhors. 
The  further  up  the  Amazon  the  less  we  saw  of  the 
Portuguese  and  African  type  and  more  of  the  Indian 
and  Spanish.  The  first-class  passengers  generally 
comprise  the  traders  and  their  assistants  who  go  into 
the  tributaries  at  the  opening  of  the  rubber  season  to 
furnish  supplies  to  gatherers  and  later  to  ship  the 
crude  rubber  to  Manaos  and  Para.  Most  of  these  are 
accompanied  hy  women  from  Para  and  Manaos  with 
whom  they  live  until  an  opportunity  occurs  to  trade 
them  off  to  some  half  savage  native.  There  were  a 
number  of  this  class  on  the  Joan  Alfredo,  two  or  three 
quite  pretty,  but  showing  something  of  the  Indian  and 
Portuguese  in  their  features  and  figures.  We  had  also 
one  Peruvian  dona  of  the  better  class,  who  could  talk 
quite  good  English  in  a  sweet  voice  which  sounded 
more  agreeable  than  the  Portuguese. 

The  captains  of  the  river  boats  are  also  the  chief 
cooks  or  caterers  for  the  passengers.  The  steamboat 
company  sells  only  the  transportation,  the  captain  pro- 
viding the  food  and  collecting  for  the  meals.  This  is 
his  perquisite  and  much  depends  on  the  reputation  of 


2,000  MILES  ON  AMAZON  BOAT  85 

a  captain  in  this  direction,  the  best  table  securing  the 
most  passengers.  The  Brazileiros  enjoy  a  good  feed, 
delaying  sometimes  weeks  to  take  passage  with  a 
favorite  captain.  This  accounted  for  our  crowded  list 
on  the  Joan  Alfredo.  As  a  rule  the  table  fare  is 
wretched,  the  cooking  being  of  the  highly  seasoned 
stews,  of  meats  and  gravies  over  which  the  people 
sprinkle  or  shovel  quantities  of  the  mandioca  meal,  the 
bread  of  the  poor,  resembling  corn  meal  in  appearance. 

The  average  Portuguese  captain  who  has  been  reared 
a  sailor  or  a  boatman  is  seldom  capable  of  managing 
the  cuisine  to  suit  foreigners,  and  when  he  entrusts 
it  to  a  steward  of  lower  degree,  the  chances  are  that 
the  sub  makes  a  decided  mess  of  it,  by  adding  to  his 
pay  out  of  the  crumbs  that  are  supposed  to  drop  from 
his  table.  Wine  of  the  so-called  Coloris  or  Portuguese 
claret  is  served  free,  as  is  the  custom,  with  all  meals, 
it  would  be  taking  great  risks  of  fevers  to  drink  the 
river  water. 

The  interior  arrangement  of  the  Joan  Alfredo  was 
similar  to  the  other  first-class  river  boats,  containing  a 
few  rooms  for  first-class  passengers.  Each  of  the  fifty- 
two  passengers  had,  however,  brought  their  hammocks 
along,  which  were  strung  so  thickly  there  was  scarcely 
room  to  pass.  There  was  no  doubling  up  in  hammocks 
even  in  families,  my  observation  being  that  it  was  as 
much  as  a  newcomer  could  do  to  sleep  alone  in  one,  but, 
like  everything  else  in  that  country,  one  gets  used  to 
a  rede  and  can't  rest  in  a  bed. 

The  jovial  captain,  with  a  significant  smile,  kindly 
observed  as  the  rooms  were  hot  and  the  after  deck 
crowded  he  would  have  my  hammock  placed  in  the 


86  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

forward  part  of  the  boat  which  was  usually  alloted  to 
ladies,  a  consideration  that  I  very  highly  appreciated 
by  sleeping  in  it  not  only  at  night,  but  most  of  the 
long  days. 

It  is  only  in  tropical  countries,  and  especially  during 
a  long  voyage  like  this,  that  one  can  appreciate  the 
delight  of  reposing  on  hammocks  in  the  society  of 
pretty  senhoritas  under  the  awnings  of  a  boat  paddling 
along  through  tropical  scenery  with  only  sufficient 
motion  to  create  a  pleasant  breeze  so  that  one  does 
not  even  have  to  wield  a  fan. 

A  hammock  is  not  only  used  as  a  bed,  but  also  as  an 
"American  chair, ^'  as  they  call  our  rockers.  It  is 
used  also  as  a  sofa  and  a  tete-a-tete.  A  native  does  not 
sleep  lengthwise  or  straight,  which  doubles  up  one  who 
gets  into  a  rede  that  is  strung  too  short,  giving  that 
uncomfortable  bow  shape  to  the  body.  They  lay  them- 
selves out  bias,  that  is,  the  head  is  high  on  one  side,  the 
feet  very  little  lower,  the  body  reposing  diagonally 
across  the  hammock  in  an  almost  horizontal  position. 

When  used  as  a  rocker  they  will  sit  in  the  centre, 
raising  the  other  side  for  a  back  or  support,  swinging 
to  and  fro. 

But  the  most  charming  position  is  in  tete-a-tete  in 
a  hammock  with  a  pretty,  brown-eyed  senhorita.  One 
may  not  as  properly  describe  the  situation  perhaps  as 
well  as  it  could  be  demonstrated,  but  it  is  something  like 
this :  Each  sit  back  to  back  but  alongside  of  the  other, 
the  lady  supporting  her  head  and  shoulder  on  that 
part  of  the  rede  back  of  her.  You  do  likewise,  simply 
reversing  position,  which  places  a  couple  in  tete-a- 
tete,   only  there  are  no   arms  in  the  way.    I  mean 


HAMMOCK  TETE-A-TETE  87 

upholstered  arms.  One  is  apt  to  become  a  little 
crowded,  but  like  everything  else  in  that  land  you 
get  used  to  it.  The  feet  of  both  occupants  should 
barely  touch  the  floor,  each  in  turn  is  expected  to 
sustain  the  motion  by  a  gentle  push,  all  the  while 
laughing  or  chatting  in  the  jolly  way  of  that  people. 
Two  girls,  or  perhaps  two  old  ladies,  will  put  in  an 
entire  afternoon  in  this  way,  perhaps  one  will  do  the 
talking  while  the  other  does  the  kicking. 

While  the  Joan  Alfredo  was  slowly  paddling  up  the 
monotonous  yellow  river  bordered  with  green,  an  enter- 
taining story  was  being  developed  aboard,  the  principal 
character  in  which  was  the  governess,  an  innocent 
appearing  girl  of  fifteen,  of  a  neat  figure  peculiar  to 
her  class.  This  olive  complexioned,  dark  eyed,  half 
Portuguese  and  Indian,  was  not  pretty  in  face,  which 
showed  the  indifferent  if  not  defiant  expression  of  the 
girls  on  board.  Though  young  she  was  tall  and  slender, 
her  every  movement  of  that  willowy  character,  grace- 
fully attractive.  Iler  companion,  the  African  nurse 
girl,  was  quite  ugly,  which  by  contrast  added  to  the 
charms  of  the   governess. 

One  night  after  the  passengers  had  all  gone  to  ham- 
mock, one  who  thought  the  deck  was  clear,  ventured 
to  take  some  air  while  arrayed  in  lovely  red  and  white 
striped  pajamas,  dropping  into  a  vacant  hammock  to 
smoke  a  cigarette  and  look  at  the  Southern  moon. 

The  two  girls  having  put  their  charges  to  sleep  also 
quietly  strolled  out  on  the  deck  and  took  possession  of 
the  first  empty  hammock,  arranging  themselves  as 
described  for  a  tete-a-tete.  Supposing  everybody  was 
asleep  they  proceeded  to  enjoy  themselves  in  the  happy 


88  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

way  of  their  race.  The  pretty  governess  sat  in  the 
rede  facing  the  pajamas,  who  was  supposed  to  be 
absorbed  in  the  man  in  the  moon,  but  who  subsequently^ 
explained  that  he  was  through  consideration  obliged 
to  feign  sleep,  while  the  two  girls  swung  high  in  the 
rede.  Of  course  these  children  of  the  forest  though 
fairly  educated  were  accustomed  to  this  sort  of  life 
and  were  innocent  of  any  improprieties,  but  the  sequel 
will  show  that  the  penalty  for  having  a  little  fun  on  an 
Amazon  boat  is  liable  to  be  severe,  in  some  circum- 
stances. 

The  difference  in  the  class  of  passengers  is  marked  by 
the  premero  or  first  being  located  in  the  forward  part 
of  the  boat ;  the  segunda  or  second  aft,  on  same  deck ; 
the  tercera  or" third,  the  steerage  for  Indians  and  rubber 
gatherers  on  the  lower  deck.  There  is  no  inclination  to 
mix,  each  seeming  entirely  content  with  their  lots. 

There  were  on  our  deck  a  few  ''lady''  passengers, 
some  of  whom  were  travelling  on  subsidy  transporta- 
tion given  by  the  officials,  who  kept  themselves  amongst 
congenial  friends  in  the  after  deck. 

The  passengers  naturally  become  tired  on  a  monot- 
onous trip  like  this,  and  any  sort  of  recreation  is  sought 
and  eagerly  pursued.  The  young  pilot  apprentices 
kept  the  more  dignified  and  sedate  in  the  front  portion 
of  the  boat  interested  and  amused  at  their  sly  flirtations 
with  the  pretty  governess  (when  the  captain's  wife  was 
not  around).  Luzi-a  (her  name,  pronounced  softly  as 
if  spelled  '*Loo-see-ah,"  the  accent  strong  on  "see"), 
was  not  averse  to  a  little  fun.  Indeed,  I  may  add,  that 
I  have  never  been  able  to  get  to  any  point  however 
remote  that  the  girls  don't  flirt;  even  Indian  girls  on 


LUZIA  89 

top  of  the  Andes,  who  never  saw  a  white  man  before, 
seem  prepared  to  play  the  Eve  to  the  discomfiture  of 
the  stronger  half. 

Friends  in  Manaos,  as  is  the  custom  when  one  of 
their  number  embarks  for  the  upper  regions,  had  gen- 
erously sent  aboard  to  my  address,  a  case  of  a  better 
quality  of  claret  than  is  dispensed  by  the  caterer,  also 
some  stout,  ginger  ale,  and  my  Scotch  Consular  col- 
league insisted  that  a  bottle  of  Scotch  was  a  necessity, 
in  case  of  illness,  there  being  no  chance  to  get  such 
things  on  board.  As  I  had  no  use  for  so  much  of  the 
stuff  I  availed  of  opportunities  to  distribute  some  of  it 
among  the  lady  passengers  at  our  end.  As  I  do  not 
drink  (ginger  ale)  I  was  glad  to  hand  it  over  to  the 
governess  (for  the  children)  and  through  this  means 
frequently  got  into  conversation.  When  the  ginger 
was  exhausted  we  began  on  the  stout,  but  as  it  was  too 
strong  for  the  children  we  opened  it  at  night,  but 
the  popping  cork  caused  trouble,  not,  however,  on 
account  of  any  temperance  sentiment.  The  captain's 
wife,  though  quite  an  invalid  was  however  able  to  be 
around,  sometimes  unexpectedly,  her  bright,  black 
eyes  always  on  the  alert.  Of  course  she  did  not 
meddle  with  the  passengers  who  paid  more  attention  to 
the  governess  than  to  the  mistress,  but  one  afternoon 
she  detected  the  young  Portuguese  pilot  in  conversation 
with  her  maid  at  which  she  became  as  much  excited  in 
her  denunciation  as  a  maniac,  berating  the  poor  boy  in 
vile  language  loud  enough  to  attract  all  the  passengers. 
The  captain  retreated  to  his  room  and  all  became  very 
meek  for  the  balance  of  the  day. 

After  this  episode  the  governess  disappeared,  being. 


90  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

we  understood,  confined  to  her  room  as  a  prisoner. 
Whatever  happened  to  her  there  we  could  not  tell,  but 
she  had  the  sympathy  of  all  on  board. 

The  morning  after  these  occurrences,  as  the  boat  was 
making  a  landing,  the  captain  and  wife  at  the  girl's 
door  were  in  earnest  conversation,  the  captain  appar- 
ently trying  to  soothe  his  wife  who  was  still  angry.  The 
little  girl  stepped  out  attired  in  her  best,  apparently 
prepared  to  leave.  The  captain  sullenly  motioned  her 
to  move  forward  toward  the  stairway.  It  flashed  upon 
me  at  once  that  the  poor  child  was  being  put  ashore^  as 
is  the  custom  when  a  woman  passenger  behaves  improp- 
erly on  the  boat.  This  most  arbitrary  rule  may  be 
necessary  to  prevent  flagrant  indecency,  but  one  can 
hardly  believe  it  is  enforced  unless  they  have  travelled 
on  these  boats. 

Feeling  that  perhaps  in  some  way  I  might  have 
unwittingly  been  partly  responsible,  I  asked  permission 
to  go  ashore  with  the  landing  party,  hoping  to  have  an 
opportunity  of  remonstrating  with  the  captain  pri- 
vately. Though  courteously  permitted  to  go  ashore 
the  captain  seemed  to  avoid  me,  when  I  boldly  ap- 
proached the  girl  who  was  standing  with  an  old  woman 
in  the  doorway  of  the  only  house  in  the  place,  asking 
her  if  she  was  going  to  stop  there. 

''Yes,  Senhor  Don,"  she  said  with  a  sad  smile,  turn- 
ing to  hide  her  teari^. 

"But,  Luzia,  don't  you  want  to  go  to  Iquitos?" 

*'Si,  Si,  Senhor,"  she  said,  looking  appealingly  into 
my  eyes. 

"Then  you  shall  come  by  the  next  boat,  if  you  can't 
go  on  the  Joan  Alfredo." 


FLIRTING  ON  THE  AMAZON  91 

^'Obrigado,  obrigado/'  the  Portuguese  for  **  thank 
you/'  which  she  uttered  with  the  prayerful  inflexion 
of  one  who  feels  grateful,  adding,  '*I  will  go  to  you." 

*'I  will  send  you  back  to  your  friends  at  Para." 
Stepping  back  of  the  house,  I  gathered  all  the  Brazilian 
money  in  my  pocket,  which  I  made  into  a  small  roll  in 
my  hand  and  offered  it  to  her  in  farewell,  as  is  the 
custom.  She  intuitively  felt  the  money  which  was 
acknowledged  by  a  hearty  pressure  of  the  hand,  when 
with  a  hasty  sob  of  ''Obrigado,  obrigado,"  she  ran 
behind  the  house  crying.  During  this  brief  interview, 
the  captain  was  discussing  with  a  half  breed  Indian  hag 
as  to  the  keeping  of  the  girl,  probably  until  his  return, 
but  all  the  while  in  blissful  ignorance  of  my  providing 
for  her  escape  by  the  next  boat. 

By  way  of  diversion  I  was  shown  by  the  captain  and 
the  hag  an  interesting  curio  that  hung  on  the  walls  of 
the  house — a  sort  of  cat-o-nine-tails  whip,  made  from 
the  withes  of  vines  that  are  as  tough  and  pliable  as 
leather.  These  whips,  the  old  hag  laughingly  gloated 
over,  are  used  on  the  back  of  girls,  while  a  heavy 
paddle  shaped  club  hanging  alongside  is  used  on  the 
tough  backs  of  Indian  boys. 

There  are  a  number  of  such  slave  pens  on  the  Amazon 
where  this  worst  species  of  slave  trade  is  practiced. 
The  boats  carry  to  the  swamps  at  every  trip  young  girls 
and  old  ones  whom  the  officials  know  are  being  taken  to 
the  traders  precisely  as  they  do  cattle,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  hordes  of  poor  laborers  taken  to  the  rubber 
swamps  to  die  like  sheep. 

I  ventured  to  ask  the  captain  if  he  was  leaving  the 


92  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

girl,  to  which  he  answered,  tersely,  ''Yes."  But  I  per- 
sisted.   ''You  will  take  her  up  on  your  return?" 

' '  No,  I  don 't  want  her  no  more. ' ' 

"Why,  captain,  she  seems  like  a  nice  girl." 

**No  good,"  and  the  subject  was  dropped. 

I  wanted  an  opportunity  to  tell  him  that  if  I  were  in 
any  way  responsible,  I  would  make  proper  amends. 
In  fact,  I  intimated  strongly  the  opinion  that  it  was  the 
men  who  caused  the  trouble  that  should  have  been 
punished  instead  of  the  poor  girl,  that  some  surprise 
was  caused  aboard  by  the  people  who  were  accustomed 
to  these  things  and  could  not  understand  my  indigna- 
tion. But  that  is  not  the  way  they  manage  these 
things  in  Amazonia.  A  girl  of  this  caste  counts  for 
nothing;  a  man  may  do  as  he  pleases,  his  victim  only 
suffers  the  consequences. 

The  poor  girl  had  committed  no  wrong,  her  offense 
consisting  only  in  harmless  flirting,  which  in  this  in- 
stance aroused  the  jealousy  of  the  captain's  wife,  who 
was  really  responsible  for  the  severe  punishment  which 
the  captain  might  have  overlooked. 

When  the  boat  pulled  out  I  saw  Luzia,  in  a  suppli- 
cating position  at  the  rear  of  the  house,  looking  wist- 
fully at  the  departing  boat.  After  this  episode  the 
senhoritas  on  board  became  very  reserved. 

This  girl  did  not  escape  and  come  to  Iquitos.  If  she 
was  not  taken  back  to  Para,  she  was  doubtless  carried 
to  the  forest,  as  the  slave  of  some  brutal  rubber  gath- 
erer. A  steamboat  officer  offered  me  the  consolation 
that  she  was  probably  indifferent  to  her  fate,  that  she 
was  reared  to  expect  nothing  better  in  this  life. 

I  venture  to  add  that  this  is  an  absolutely  true  story 


FRONTIER  OF  BRAZIL  AND  PERU  93 

written  from  real  life  as  witnessed  and  not  hearsay. 
The  correct  name  is  given  and  the  landing  was  Santa 
Rita,  Upper  Amazon. 

During  the  second  thousand  miles  on  the  "Solimoes," 
as  the  Brazil ieros  insist  on  calling  the  Upper  Amazon, 
we  pass  the  confluence  of  the  Purus  (Poo-roos),  an  afflu- 
ent from  the  south  almost  as  large  as  our  Mississippi, 
whose  branches  spread  through  Brazil  and  Bolivia  into 
Peru;  also  the  Jurua  (Jew-rewrah),  entering  farther  to 
the  west,  extending  also  into  Peru.  Another  large  river 
with  a  name  similar  to  the  latter,  flowing  from  the 
north,  reaches  to  the  borders  of  Columbia,  as  does  also 
the  Napo  from  Ecuador,  and  numerous  smaller  navi- 
gable  streams. 

On  the  morning  of  the  fifth  day  our  boat  arrived  at 
the  frontier  of  Brazil  and  Peru,  landing  at  the  desolate 
military  outpost  of  Brazil,  at  a  small  place  with  the 
big  name  of  Tabatinga,  on  the  maps,  with  nothing,  how- 
ever, to  mark  the  dreary  spot  but  the  drooping,  yellow 
and  green  Brazilian  flag  on  a  palm  tree  pole,  flanked  by 
a  couple  of  old  brass  cannon,  around  which  the  grass 
had  grown  tall  enough  to  half  conceal  or  make  a 
** masque  battery."  Near  by  was  the  ruins  of  the 
former  government  house,  out  of  openings  for  windows 
and  through  the  holes  in  the  roof,  tropical  vegetation 
was  protruding. 

Close  by  is  another  half  demolished  "government 
house,"  which  was  occupied  by  the  few  Brazilian 
soldiers  and  the  distinguished  political  and  naval 
*'Depordados,"  who  had  been  banished  by  President 
Peixoto  because  of  their  "offensive  partisanship"  as 
new  born  Republicans  who  differed  with  the  successor 


94  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

of  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro.  President  Peixoto  (pro- 
nounced P-show-tah,  accent  on  the  ''show"),  as  the 
histories  will  show,  made  a  decree  banishing  his  politi- 
cal adversaries,  the  event  occurring  during  my  Con- 
sular residence  and  which  is  now  part  of  records  to 
sustain  the  statements  of  this  narrative. 

Certainly  no  more  desolate  spot  could  have  been 
selected  in  which  to  punish  by  slow  torture  those  who 
had  become  troublesome  citizens  by  reason  of  their 
superior  intelligence. 

The  Czar  of  all  the  Russias  in  banishing  his  people 
to  the  cold  regions  of  Siberia  does  not  do  them  so  great 
an  injury  in  the  way  of  personal  discomfort  as  did 
Peixoto,  President  of  all  the  Brazils,  in  banishing  these 
prominent  Republican  citizens  to  the  antipodes  of  Rus- 
sian Siberia,  yet  in  Brazil,  six  thousand  miles  from  their 
homes,  in  an  isolated  region  under  a  sky  so  hot  that 
life  is  a  daily  burden.  There  is  no  rest  at  night  on 
account ,  of  the  mosquito  pests,  the  air  being  moist 
and  always  humid,  the  mosquitoes  swarm  in  myriads. 
Though  the  ''depordados"  are  granted  the  liberty  of 
the  place,  there  being  no  chance  of  escape,  except  into 
the  forests  and  swamps,  they  are  really  imprisoned  in 
their  huts,  even  exercise  being  prevented  by  the 
moqueens,  which  is  an  invisible  tick  that  swarm  on 
every  blade  of  grass  and  which  is  sure  to  get  on  the 
body,  where  they  burrow  and  lay  their  eggs,  which  are 
hatched  under  the  skin  by  the  warmth  of  the  body, 
creating  the  festering  sores  on  the  lower  extremeties 
peculiar  to  that  latitude. 

The  unhealthfulness  of  the  place  actually  compelled 
the  abandonment  of  the  point  as  a  military  post  by  the 


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THE  SIBERIA  OF  BRAZIL  95 

officers  under  Dom  Pedro,  who  evacuated  or  surren- 
dered to  the  snakes,  scorpions,  centipedes  and  other 
creeping  things. 

When  the  Juan  Alfredo  put  into  the  muddy  banks, 
the  captain  courteously  invited  me  to  go  ashore  with 
him.  I  concluded  my  time  had  come,  that  I  was  to 
be  landed  as  an  undesirable  person,  because  of  my 
interest  in  the  banishment  of  the  little  girl  Luzia.  I 
probably  would  not  have  objected  if  it  had  been  pro- 
posed to  put  me  off  at  the  same  place  with  her,  but 
to  be  left  in  this  bleak  region  with  a  party  of  political 
cranks,  who  can  talk  eternally,  as  only  Brazilian  states- 
men out  of  a  job  can,  would  have  been  equal  to  leaving 
me  a  prisoner  in  an  insane  asylum.  The  jovial  captain 
laughed  at  my  apprehensions,  assuring  me  that  he 
would  not  go  off  without  calling  me.  I  stepped  ashore 
into  the  Brazilian  mud,  within  stone  throw  of  Peruvian 
soil. 

The  two  or  three  hours  spent  with  the  exiles  was 
interesting  as  well  as  hot.  I  had  brought  with  me  a 
New  York  paper  containing  severe  criticism  of  the 
President  of  Brazil  in  an  account  of  the  interview  had 
with  the  boat  load  of  these  distinguished  ''depordados'* 
while  anchoring  at  Para  en  route  among  which  were 
some  women  and  children  accompanying  their  parents. 
There  were  old  grey  haired  men  and  boys,  naval  officers 
and  statesmen,  a  full  ship's  complement,  aggregating, 
I  think,  a  hundred  souls,  all  on  board  a  ship  chartered 
by  the  government  and  officered  by  the  military  convey- 
ing these  people  up  2,000  miles  of  Amazon  to  the 
fartherest  border  of  Brazil. 

I  had  talked  with  Captain  Carvalho,  an  ex-naval 


96  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

officer  and  one  of  the  depordados  in  Para,  who  had 
managed  to  escape  over  the  lines  into  Peru  and  not 
knowing  the  others  personally  I  ventured  to  address  a 
pleasant  faced,  elderly  looking  gent,  carelessly  attired 
in  a  woolen  shirt  and  duck  trousers  whose  jolly  bear- 
ing seemed  to  invite  an  approach.  Finding  that  he 
spoke  English,  I  gave  him  the  New  York  paper  con- 
taining the  correspondence  from  Para,  criticizing  the 
government  on  account  of  the  depordados  and  also  con- 
taining the  latest  news  of  the  world.  Incidentally 
mentioning  that  I  would  like  to  see  a  celebrated  admiral 
of  the  Brazilian  navy  who  was  one  of  the  exiles  and 
who  was  well  known  as  a  former  member  of  the 
Emperor  Dom  Pedro's  cabinet  at  Rio,  one  of  the  party 
standing  around  me  smilingly  observed:  ''You  have 
been  talking  with  the  admirante,"  nodding  in  the 
direction  of  the  old  gentlemen  in  shirt  sleeves.  I  lifted 
my  hat  in  salute  and  apologizing,  the  admirante  laugh- 
ing heartily  over  the  incident.  We  had  a  glass  of  warm 
beer  all  around,  which  is  one  of  the  things  they  cannot 
deprive  even  an  exile  from  finding  on  this  outer  edge 
of  civilization. 

Close  by  Tabatinga  is  the  Peruvian  outpost  station, 
the  flags  of  both  nations  waving  languidly  in  the  same 
hot  breeze.  The  boat  lands  to  take  up  the  Peruvian 
customs  and  other  officials;  an  interchange  of  the 
courtesies  consumed  a  half  day  and  unlimited  quanti- 
ties of  warm  beer. 

The  boats  up  and  down  go  out  of  the  Amazon  here 
to  deliver  goods  and  take  up  rubber  and  exchange  mail 
on  the  Rio  Javary  (pronounced  Java-ree),  the  dividing 
line  between  Brazil  and  Peru, 


THE  JAVA— REE  97 

The  Javary  has  been  the  most  valuable  rubber  ter- 
ritory and  probably  for  the  same  reason  it  is  also  most 
productive  of  malignant  types  of  fever  peculiar  to  the 
river.  The  lands  on  either  bank  are  low  lying,  the 
interior  being  almost  covered  with  the  numerous 
swampy  lakes.  During  the  dry  season  the  waters  that 
overflow  the  interiors  rapidly  evaporate  under  the  hot 
sun,  leaving  the  innumerable  fish,  alligators  and  other 
marine  creatures  to  slowly  die  in  the  muddy  swamps. 
The  air  becomes  full  of  this  poison,  but  it  is  said  the 
real  danger  begins  when  the  waters  rise,  when  this 
debris  is  washed  into  the  Javary  which  supplies  the 
inhabitants  with  their  only  drinking  water.  A  cup  of 
water  from  the  Javary  is  almost  as  fatal  as  poison  and 
it  is  equally  as  injurious  when  used  for  bathing.  It  is 
said  the  natives  economize  the  cachasa  and  preserve 
health  by  first  bathing  and,  after,  use  the  cachasa  inter- 
nally. 

The  Javary  has  the  appearance  of  an  important  busi- 
ness stream,  there  being  more  activity  in  the  numbers 
of  steam  launches,  canoes  and  trading  houses  we  had 
seen  on  the  thousand  miles  of  the  main  stream.  Being 
the  dividing  line,  the  rate  of  export  duties  differs  on 
the  opposite  banks;  that  of  Peru  being  considerably 
less  than  Brazil,  causes  some  confusion  and  occasional 
conflicts,  perhaps  considerable  loss  is  sustained  by 
Brazil  through  this  product  being  smuggled  through 
Peruvian  channels  and  maybe  Brazil  gets  credit  for  the 
output  of  the  Peruvian  side.  The  bustle  at  the  numer- 
ous landings  reminds  one  of  the  life  in  the  oil  regions 
or  mining  camps,  where  everybody  seems  contented 
even  in  their  deprivations,  buoyed  with  the  prospect  of 


98  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

getting  rich  quick,  men  and  women  risking  life  in  this 
deadly  fetid  air  for  months  in  pursuit  of  the  liquid 
gold  of  the  rubber.  There  are  but  few  towns  on  the 
main  stream,  the  settlements  being  generally  a  store 
and  barrack  looking  huts,  almost  always  located  on 
some  of  the  little  affluents,  requiring  the  boat  to  leave 
the  river  and  thread  its  way  through  narrow  channels 
from  six.  to  fifteen  miles  to  reach  these  trading  settle- 
ments. 

The  first  town,  or  rather  the  first  sight  for  a  proposed 
town  at  the  mouth  of  the  deadly  Javary,  is  appropri- 
ately named  *'Esperanza"  or  ^'Hope,^'  which  should 
contain  the  legend  also  over  its  portals  *'A11  ye  who 
enter  here  leave  'hope'  behind." 

Another  day  of  this  monotonous  voyage  above  the 
Javary,  in  Peruvian  territory,  we  pass  the  Rio  Napo  in 
Ecuador,  and  the  day  following  are  gladdened  by  the 
steam  whistle  announcing  our  approach  to  Iquitos  in 
Peru,  the  end  of  the  voyage  of  the  Joan  Alfredo. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

QUITOS,  sometimes  spelled  Yquitos,  but 
always  pronounced  E-key-toss,  has  been 
described  as  a  town  without  ice,  where 
warm  beer  sells  for  a  dollar  a  bottle.  It 
is  almost  in  the  same  latitude  as  Para,  but 
some  2,000  miles  due  west,  at  considerable 
elevation. 

At  the  time  of  a  first  visit  about  five 
thousand  nine  hundred  half  breed  Spanish  and  Indian, 
and  one  hundred  foreign  shop-keepers,  made  up  the 
alleged  population  of  six  thousand,  which  has  more 
than  doubled  in  late  years. 

The  stranger  will  be  apt  to  gather  the  impression 
that  a  very  considerable  percentage  of  the  half  breed 
villagers  are  at  least  three-quarter  Indian.  The  small 
proportion  of  whites,  however,  obtain  the  governing 
power. 

Quite  extensive  business  is  done  from  this  point  in 
supplying  the  country  by  means  of  steam  launches  and 
innumerable  canoes,  plying  in  the  many  tributaries, 
with  very  cheap  German  goods  in  change  for  Hevea 
rubber  and  caucho,  which  is  the  principal  trade  of  this 
valley  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Andes. 

Unfortunately  for  its  future  business  expansion,  the 
city  of  Iquitos  is  not  located  on  the  banks  of  the  main 
Amazon,  but  like  Para  and  Manaos,  is  situated  a  short 
distance  off  the  main  river,  which  at  this  point  is  very 
wide,  being  divided  by  a  crescent  shaped  island  twenty 

99 


100  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

or  thirty  miles  long,  and  two  miles  in  width,  forming 
two  channels,  in  the  centre  or  notch  of  the  bow  shaped 
side  stream,  Iquitos  was  built,  the  main  stream  running 
by  on  the  straight  line  representing  the  string  of  the 
bow. 

The  savages  who  founded  the  earlier  settlements  had 
a  proper  motive  in  desiring  to  secure  their  villages 
from  the  marauding  foes  who  navigated  the  main 
stream  with  armed  canoes  but  why  a  distinguished  com- 
mission of  Peruvian  officials  sent  out  in  a  modern  war 
ship,  should  have  decided  upon  this  remote  point  as  a 
suitable  location  for  a  commercial  centre,  is  one  of  the 
many  peculiarities  that  puzzles  the  Anglo-Saxon  man 
of  business.  It  is  said  the  future  city  location  was 
paramount  to  "present"  considerations. 

It  possesses  the  advantage  of  a  high  rolling  bluff  of 
sufficient  area  for  a  small  town,  presenting  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  sites  to  be  found  on  the  river,  but  the 
capricious  currents  of  the  Amazon  are  threatening  to 
leave  the  ambitious  town  still  higher  and  drier  by  the 
forming  of  bars  on  the  side  stream  that  must  strangle 
the  struggling  city  by  cutting  off  its  water  communi- 
cation, when  it  will  die  like  a  fish  out  of  water. 

It  is  possible  that  a  new  settlement  may  be  estab- 
lished at  the  mouth  of  the  Javary,  the  dividing  line,  or 
that  the  development  above  the  present  location  may 
build  up  other  towns  on  the  Peruvian  waters  that  will 
also  be  convenient  to  Ecuador. 

As  may  be  inferred,  Iquitos  is  not  one  of  the  old 
settlements  like  Para  and  Manaos,  but  was  founded  as 
late  as  1864,  when  the  Lima  government  sent  a  com- 
mission of  location  with  a  small  flotilla  of  war  vessels. 


CONFEDERATE  OFFICERS  IN'PER'tJ  NKVY  ibl 

It  was  four  years  later  when  Admiral  Tucker  and  a  few 
other  of  the  ex-Confederate  naval  officers  then  in  the 
employ  of  the  Peruvian  government,  visited  the  port. 
The  commission  located  quite  extensive  machine  shops, 
foundries,  etc.,  at  an  enormous  outlay,  in  which  it  was 
proposed  to  repair  Peruvian  naval  vessels  for  operating 
on  the  extensive  system  of  interior  waterway  in  Peru- 
vian Amazonas,  or  as  it  is  now  known,  "Fluvial 
Amazonas.** 

Railway  tracks  with  steam  connection  were  laid 
down  the  steep  embankment  to  the  water's  edge  for 
the  better  handling  of  heavy  material.  A  large  float- 
ing dock  was  also  included  in  this  extensive  naval 
outfit  as  part  of  the  equipment  to  promote  Peru's 
ascendancy  in  these  waters,  but  unfortunately  it  be- 
came a  most  serious  obstacle  to  navigation.  The  Gov- 
ernor, without  experience  in  such  matters,  desiring  to 
make  an  exhibition  of  the  floating  dock  succeeded  in 
sinking  it  so  well  in  the  channel  that  it  could  not  be 
raised,  but  became  a  neuclus  at  the  bottom  of  the  river, 
around  which  formed  a  sand  bar  that  has  been  accumu- 
lating for  twenty  years  and  is  now  quite  an  island,  to 
mark  the  folly  of  the  Governor.  Much  money  was 
wasted.  The  government  shops  are  now  used  for  saw 
mills,  while  the  incline  comes  handy  in  hauling  rubber 
to  the  custom  house  from  the  canoes  and  launches  as 
also  the  cargo  of  the  steamers. 

Large  ocean  steamers  drawing  fifteen  to  twenty  feet 
can  come  to  Iquitos  during  the  annual  floods  which  pre- 
vail froln  December  to  the  last  of  May  and  steamboats 
of  the  Amazon  type  drawing  ten  to  twelve  feet,  enter 


W2'  '•/ " '' '  THE  LAND  OP  TO-MORROW 

the  port  of  Iquitos  every  month,  even  in  July  and 
August. 

The  English  steamers  that  formerly  made  monthly 
trips  to  Manaos  with  Para  as  the  principal  port,  now 
make  Manaos  the  end  of  all  voyages,  extending  the  ser- 
vice to  Iquitos  bi-monthly  and  it  is  possible  the  lines 
will  be  continued  another  five  hundred  miles  farther 
by  steamers  and  over  a  thousand  by  smaller  boats  and 
launches. 

Upon  the  direct  communication  by  water  with 
America  depends  the  ascendency  of  American  trade  to 
this  wonderfully  favored  Land  of  To-Morrow  and  it 
should  be  kept  in  mind  that  the  Mississippi  and  Gulf 
ports  are  closer  than  any  other  and  the  trade  direct, 
more  desirable  than  to  New  York  and  Europe. 

The  freight  charges  from  New  York  or  Liverpool  to 
Iquitos  are  about  forty  dollars  a  ton.  The  rate  from 
New  York  or  Liverpool  to  Para  being  only  ten  dollars 
a  ton,  leaving  the  thirty  dollars  as  the  proportion  for 
the  river  transportation,  which  is  as  open  and  free  to 
ocean  traffic  as  the  ocean  itself. 

The  government  of  Peru  has  been  much  more  liberal 
in  its  customs  regulation  than  Brazil  because  of  the 
desire  to  encourage  direct  trade,  there  being  but  a 
small  horizontal  duty  on  all  goods  entering  Peru  by 
the  Amazon.  On  the  Pacific  coast  a  more  stringent 
rule  applies  to  imports. 

Peru  exacts  less  export  duties  on  the  indigenous 
products  of  her  Amazon  possessions  than  is  demanded 
by  Brazil. 

The  Caucho,  or  Cauchouc  (which  may  not  be  spelled 
right,  as  the  word  is  never  used  in  the  trade)   but 


CAUCHO  AND  PARA  RUBBER     103 

generally  abbreviated  to  *'Cauch,"  is  the  secona  grade 
of  rubber  found  most  generally  in  southeastern  Peru; 
and  Sernamby  (Ser-nam-bee)  the  residue  or  drippings 
of  the  Hevea,pay  but  five  cents  per  kilo  while  the  better 
grade  is  taxed  at  eight  cents  per  kilo,  while  Brazil 
demands  twenty-five  per  cent  on  all  exports  along 
with  municipal  and  other  charges. 

When  Iquitos  was  yet  a  town  of  but  5,000  Indians 
and  half  breeds,  the  official  figures  show  that  the  rev- 
enue on  the  crude  material  alone  from  an  almost  unde- 
veloped territory,  exceeded  a  quarter  of  a  million  dol- 
lars annually,  the  imports  and  exports  aggregating 
a  million  dollars  each. 

As  noted  in  Consular  reports,  first  calling  attention 
to  the  exhaustion  of  supply  in  the  lower  Amazon,  the 
Para  dealers  endeavored  to  create  a  different  impres- 
sion in  their  own  interest  and  in  behalf  of  Brazil  but, 
notwithstanding  the  proof  of  the  correctness  of  Consu- 
lar reports  is  shown  in  the  rapid  extension  of  the  Para 
dealers'  enterprise  in  the  upper  fields  of  Peru,  Bolivia 
and  Ecuador.  The  Javary,  noted  as  the  boundary  line 
between  Brazil  and  Peru  and  the  most  prolific  source  of 
Hevea  rubber,  is  now  said  to  be  almost  exhausted  be- 
cause of  the  raids  made  by  the  Brazilian  gatherers  in 
order  to  supply  the  wonderful  demand  resulting  from 
the  requirements  for  bicycle  and  other  tires,  in  addition 
to  the  necessities  for  insulation  for  all  kinds  of  electric 
plants,  tubing  for  air  brakes -and  its  uses  in  the  arts, 
as  also  machinery  in  the  way  of  belting  and  steam 
packing,  to  say  nothing  of  shoes,  mackintoshes,  cloth- 
ing, etc. 

The  question  of  the  *' conservation '^  of  the  rubber 


104  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

tree  is  of  primary  importance  to  that  of  ' '  cultivation, ' ' 
it  being  generally  conceded  by  the  more  intelligent  and 
disinterested  Brazilian  and  Peruvian  residents  and 
traders  that  the  destructive  methods  of  collecting  the 
product,  which  has  resulted  in  the  gradual  exhaustion 
of  the  lower  sources  of  supply,  will  within  a  short  time 
destroy  the  entire  plant.  The  fear  of  this  is  furnished 
by  the  Peruvians'  sad  experience  with  the  cinchona  or 
Peruvian  bark  from  which  quinine  is  obtained,  that 
has  been  destroyed  in  the  same  way.  The  English 
anticipating  this,  wisely  transplanted  the  cinchona  to 
India  and  protected  it,  and  now  the  world  gets  its  sup- 
-ply  of  quinine  from  India. 

Will  the  same  thing  occur  with  India  rubber  through 
our  transplanting  the  seed  or  plants  to  our  own  pos- 
sessions, adapted  to  its  growth,  to  be  found  in  the 
Phillippines,  in  the  same  latitude  and  in  similar  envir- 
onment in  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico  ? 

Upper  Amazonia  possesses  all  the  advantages  of  the 
lower  in  its  numerous  indigenous  products,  except  the 
fevers,  which  do  not  prevail  to  the  same  extent  because 
of  the  increasing  altitude. 

In  the  foot  hills  of  Cordilleras  (pronounced  as  if 
spelled  Corde-lay-rows,  the  accent  on  *'lay,"  which  is 
the  name  given  to  the  ''places  where  the  snow  comes," 
the  natives  seeming  to  give  the  name  "Andes"  to  the 
mountains),  the  blue  outlines  of  which  may' almost  be 

*As  the  question  of  cultivation  for  the  future  supply 
and  Brazilian  government's  action  looking  to  protection  and 
conservation,  has  been  outlined  in  Consular  renorts,  which 
may  be  had  on  application  to  Department  of  State,  portions 
of  which  are  contained  in  the  book,  "An  American  Consul 
in  Amazonia,"  it  is  unnecessary  to  burden  the  narrative 
with  these  details. 


GOVERNMENT 


105 


seen  on  the  western  horizon  from  Iquitos,  are  rich  val- 
leys yet  untouched  by  the  white  man  and  it  is  well 
known  that  in  the  streams  forming  the  Amazon  are 
found  sands  of  gold  that  have  been  washed  down  from 
the  mountain  gorges.  Old  prospectors  who  have  exam- 
ined these  washings  are  of  the  opinion  that  they  indi- 
cate the  existence  of  large  deposits  of  gold  in  the 
unexplored  mountains  of  Eastern  Ecuador  and  Peru 
and  the  streams  flowing  from  them  into  the  Amazon. 


The  Prefect's  Palace,  Iquitos. 

The  government  of  Peru  is  a  centralized  Republic, 
the  President  and  Congress  being  elected  by  the  people 
with  a  judiciary  of  life  tenure.  The  constitution  is 
modeled  after  the  American  and  French,  with  adapta- 
tions suitable  to  their  half  civilized  people  of  the 
interior.  Instead  of  local  State  governments  Peru  is 
divided  into  some  twenty  departments  over  which  the 
President  appoints  a  Prefect  who,  as  the  principal 
director,  governs  his  separate  department  according  to 


106  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  laws  as  he  interprets  them.  This  Prefect  nominates 
the  several  sub-Prefects  of  the  different  smaller  dis- 
tricts who  in  turn,  select  the  governors  for  the  villages. 

The  deportment  of  Loretto,  comprising  Amazonia,  is 
the  largest  in  area,  including  all  of  the  rich  territory 
east  of  the  Andes.  It  is  divided  into  five  provinces  each 
of  which  is  equal  to  a  state  or  territory  namely; 
Moyabamba,  Huallagua,  San  Martine,  Bajo  or  lower 
Amazonas,  and  Alto  or  upper  Amazonas.  Moyabamba 
is  the  capital  of  all  the  provinces  while  Iquitos  is  the 
capital  of  Bajo  Amazonas. 

As  is  the  custom  with  visitors  I  had  the  honor  of 
calling  on  the  sub-Prefect  whom  I  found  to  be  a  cour- 
teous young  military  officer  of  a  decidedly  Spanish 
type  and  dignified  bearing.  He  was  from  Lima,  and 
like  a  majority  of  the  officials,  had  no  local  or  patriotic 
interest  in  the  development  of  the  province.  A  promi- 
nent Peruvian  told  me  that  up  to  that  time  not  one 
cent  was  applied  to  the  improvement  of  the  province, 
all  being  absorbed  by  the  salaries  of  the  numerous 
officials.  Of  the  two  million  dollars  received  the  first 
ten  years  following  the  establishment  of  the  custom 
house  at  Iquitos,  not  one  dollar  was  expended  in  the 
development  of  the  country. 

The  universal  complaint  which  is  strongest  with  the 
more  advanced  natives,  is  that  the  entire  energies  of 
the  government  seem  to  be  devoted  to  collecting  rev- 
enues which  are  disbursed  to  prevent  revolutions, 
there  being  no  political  issues  except  the  universal 
contention  between  the  '^ins'*  and  **outs." 

As  the  conditions  are  tacitly  accepted  by  the  resi- 
dents who  are  the  persons  most  concerned,  the  traveller 


APATHY  OF  NATIVE  PERUVIANS         107 

or  the  resident  trader  need  not  concern  himself.  Per- 
haps the  cause  for  their  apathy  may  be  traced  to  pre- 
vious race  conditions.  Certainlj^  a  different  blood  cir- 
culates in  their  veins  from  that  of  the  Anglo-Saxon, 
who  would  scarcely  submit  to  the  arbitrary  bearing  of 
what  seem  like  alien  officials,  who  do  nothing  to 
advance  the  country  but  use  the  resources  of  the  land 
to  promote  their  own  pleasures,  keeping  the  ignorant 
population  in  a  condition  of  serfdom. 

Perhaps,  too,  the  climate  of  the  Equator  produces,  in 
part,  the  causes  which  seem  to  create  a  people  so 
deficient  in  energy  and  indifferent  to  the  ordinary  im- 
pulses of  independence.  The  native  officials  will  defend 
their  position  by  insisting  that  the  Anglo-Saxon,  living 
a  long  time  in  this  climate  and  associating  with  their 
people,  learns  to  adopt  their  mode  of  life,  seeming  to 
absorb  their  indifference  by  contact. 

It  is  true  enough  that  the  heat  coupled  with  the 
silent  solitude  of  these  tropical  forests  primeval,  places 
a  peculiar  spell  over  life.  It  is  a  land  where  nature  has 
seemingly  abolished  labor  by  a  lavish  abundance  which 
reduces  the  struggle  for  life  to  a  minimum.  People 
in  that  Land  of  To-Morrow  where  every  day  is  a  sum- 
mer day,  are  not  obliged  to  work  six  months  of  one 
season  to  lay  up  a  supply  to  last  them  for  six  months  of 
winter,  when  coal  and  heavy  clothing  add  to  the 
burdens  of  civilized  life. 

But  whatever  may  be  the  philosophy  of  the  subject, 
the  concrete  facts  are  that  the  climate  and  the  people 
cannot  be  bulldozed  by  an  American  or  other  foreign 
business  hustler  into  changing  their  daily  life.  To  be 
successful  the  stranger  should  adapt  himself  in  a  cer- 


108  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

tain  degree  to  the  customs  of  the  people,  ''to  do  in 
Peru  as  the  Peruvians  do. ' ' 

Much  time  and  space  might  be  occupied  in  endeavor- 
ing to  show  why  political  theories  and  some  business 
practices,  good  enough  in  our  country,  cannot  be  suc- 
cessfully applied  to  latitude  O  (naught). 

The  orient  or  eastern  Peru  comprising  the  Montana 
or  the  wooded  country,  is  far  richer  in  the  natural  pro- 
ducts of  the  forests  than  were  the  mines  of  the  bleak 
districts  along  the  west  coast.  The  five  immense 
provinces  each  as  large  as  the  State  of  Texas,  comprise 
an  area  of  productive  resource  sufficient  to  sustain  an 
independent  government,  and  as  the  interests  are  not 
at  all  identified  with  Peru  on  the  Pacific,  some  of  the 
more  intelligent  Peruanos  think  the  indifference  of  the 
Lima  government  may  cause  a  separation  as  indicated 
by  the  Acre  incident. 

The  boundaries  between  Peru,  Columbia,  Ecuador 
and  Bolivia  are  always  in  dispute.  The  Lima  commis- 
sioners claiming  that  the  last  decree  of  the  Spanish 
government  gave  to  Peru  the  territory  in  every  direc- 
tion as  far  as  the  different  rivers  are  navigable  towards 
their  sources. 

At  one  time  the  Peruvian  or  Spanish  jurisdiction 
extended  some  five  hundred  miles  farther  east  or  down 
the  Amazon  to  a  Spanish  settlement  still  existing  named 
*'Teffe.''  The  early  Spaniards  being  indifferent  while 
the  Portuguese  advanced  their  frontier  westward. 

When  in  1840  the  last  boundary  treaty  was  negoti- 
ated with  Brazil,  the  Peruanas  found  the  Portuguese 
at  Tabatinga  and  on  the  Javary.  An  agreement  was 
made  wherein  the  Portuguese  Jew  got  decidedly  the 


ACRE  DISPUTE  109 

best  of  the  bargain  with  the  Peruvian  commissioners; 
the  latter  agreeing  to  make  the  Javary  to  the  south  a 
dividing  line,  the  impression  at  the  time  being  that  this 
river  extended  in  a  practically  straight  line  due  south, 
whereas  it  was  subsequently  discovered  that  its  source 
was  more  westerly  than  southerly,  which  gave  Brazil 
an  immense  tract  of  rubber  territory.  A  line  run  from 
a  certain  point  on  the  river  (marked  by  a  stone)  to  a 
place  in  Bolivia  above  the  Falls  of  the  Madeira  marking 
the  boundary  in  that  direction  between  the  three 
republics,  Brazil,  Peru  and  Bolivia,  gave  rise  to  the 
recent  **Acre'^  dispute  in  which  American  capital  was 
interested.  The  Brazil  ieros  being  energetic  and  awake 
to  the  value  of  the  rubber  territory  are  pushing  their 
lines  to  Peru,  some  of  the  ancient  antagonism  of  the 
Spanish  and  Portuguese  may  be  developed. 


CHAPTER  Vin. 

KAVELLERS  whose  interests  lead  them 
into  unfrequented  parts  sometime  en- 
counter cultivated  tourists  en  route 
whose  conversation  leads  one  to  believe 
their  only  object  in  life  is  to  travel 
around  the  world  in  search  of  good 
hotels.  They  talk  with  exclamations  of 
disgust,  generally,  of  the  wretched 
accommodations  at  the  last  stop  and  inquire  eagerly  as 
to  the  prospect  of  a  good  steak  at  the  next  town. 

All  such  travellers  should  avoid  Amazonia.  Tropi- 
cal explorers  must  adapt  themselves  to  the  surround- 
ings. Perhaps  it  may  be  difficult  at  times  but  there  is 
no  use  in  kicking,  and  I  have  long  since  stopped  talking 
or  writing  on  the  subject  of  meals  and  sleeping  accom- 
modations. 

There  are  no  hotels  in  Iquitos  and  as  far  as  my 
observation  extended,  none  in  the  interiors  of  South 
America,  yet  the  traveller  will  find  himself  hospitably 
entertained  wherever  he  may  desire  to  stop.  Every 
house  is  a  hotel.  There  are  sometimes  a  *'fonda"  or 
restaurant  in  the  settlements  usually  kept  by  a  China- 
man in  connection  with  his  smoking  and  gambling 
outfit.  I  have  found  the  Padre  or  priest  of  the  villages 
most  hospitable  and  courteous  and  as  they  have  the 
best  of  the  land,  I  learned  to  hunt  the  Padre  on  arriv- 
ing at  a  stopping  place.  They  are  not  only  the  best 
informed,  but  as  a  rule  are  gentlemen  who  are  glad 

110 


~      NO  HOTELS  111 

to  welcome  a  stranger  from  the  outer  world  regardless 
of  race  or  creed. 

On  arrival  at  Iquitos  an  entire  stranger,  except  for 
the  wicked  endorsement  the  Para  newspapers  had 
given  me  for  writing  ** disrespectfully  of  the  Equator" 
and  criticising  some  of  the  customs  in  our  papers, 
we  were  met  by  a  steam  launch  some  miles  out  on  the 
main  river.  A  handsome  young  gentleman  with  hat 
in  hand  who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  English,  suc- 
ceeded in  introducing  himself  as  *'Senor  Dias,  at  your 
service,"  courteously  saying  he  was  instructed  to  place 
the  house  of  Captain  Jennings  of  the  Amazon  Company" 
at  my  disposal.  My  baggage  was  rushed  through  the 
custom  house  without  the  formality  of  an  examination 
and  with  myself,  placed  in  a  comfortable  room  in  a 
thatched  roof  cottage  with  tiled  floor  which  had  been 
recently  cleaned  up  for  the  expected  guest,  the 
notorious  ''Consul  Americano,"  by  which  name  I  was 
known  across  the  continent,  and  I  may  add  without 
egotism,  that  the  title  carries  very  much  greater  con- 
sideration in  that  land  than  at  home. 

I  was  further  especially  favored  through  being  in- 
dorsed to  Don  Carlos  Mouraille,  a  French  gentleman 
of  education  and  refinement,  who  had  spent  twenty 
years  of  his  life  in  active  business  in  Iquitos,  having 
accumulated  by  thrift  and  good  management  a  large 
fortune.  Don  Carlos  and  his  brother  are  yet  largely 
interested  in  business  on  the  Upper  Amazon,  having 
branches  at  Para  and  in  Paris.  I  am  glad  to  be  able 
to  refer  the  inquirer  for  data  and  information  to  my 
esteemed  friend,  Don  Carlos  Mouraille,  of  Para,  Brazil. 

I  gratefully  accepted  Don  Carlos'  invitation  to  take 


112  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

my  meals  at  his  table  while  in  Iquitos.  Without  any 
breach  of  the  proprieties  I  may  say  that  (though  in  the 
wilds  of  Amazona)  I  have  never  sat  down  to  more 
delightful  breakfasts  and  elegant  and  substantial  din- 
ners than  when  putting  my  legs  under  Don  Carlos' 
mahogany.  He  employs  a  French  cook  and  is  supplied 
with  the  best  of  French  wines.  His  house  is  the  best  in 
the  to\^Ti  modelled  after  the  French  style;  a  square 
building  with  a  gallery  extending  all  around  the  house, 
the  interior  being  furnished  as  becomes  a  wealthy  bach- 
elor of  refined  taste. 

Don  Carlos,  who  was  born  on  the  French  island  of 
Guadaloupe,  but  educated  in  New  York,  has  travelled 
extensively,  even  to  Palestine  and  the  Nile,  which  I 
mention  in  connection  with  the  statement  that  the 
reader,  with  myself,  is  under  obligations  to  this  cul- 
tured gentleman  for  much  valuable  information.  In 
matters  relating  to  the  upper  Amazon  he  is  a  recognized 
authority,  being  consulted  by  scholars  (who  forget  to 
give  credit)  as  well  as  by  the  government  of  Peru  and 
I  may  add  to  his  further  credit,  also  by  the  innumerable 
poor  peons  who  may  be  in  trouble  and  need  assistance, 
who  do  not  forget  to  acknowledge  their  obligations. 

The  Prefect's  palace  is  a  fair  looking  building,  set 
in  a  small  plaza  fronting  on  the  river.  It  is  said  to 
have  cost  a  sole,  or  Peruvian  silver  dollar,  for  each 
brick  in  the  walls. 

The  principal  part  of  the  town  is  composed  of  the 
Indian  huts,  made  of  bamboo  on  end,  tied  together 
with  a  cord  of  a  vine  which  is  as  tough  and  flexible  as 
twine.  The  casas  or  houses  are  always  of  one  story 
topped  with  a  mass  of  overhanging  palm  leaf  thatch, 


SOCIAL  CONDITIOxNS  113 

which  is  supported  on  the  corner  posts  independently 
of  the  bamboo  side  or  end  walls,  leaving  an  open 
space  between  the  roof  and  the  sides  all  around  for 
ventilation  as  well  as  to  allow  smoke  to  escape.  The 
floors  are  of  earth.  Sometimes  there  may  be  a  parti- 
tion of  bright  colored  hand  woven  material  or  a  screen 
of  bamboo,  but  usually  the  occupants  all  sleep  scattered 
over  the  ground  floor,  the  more  favored  using  ham- 
mocks. However  they  make  their  beds,  each  will  be 
sure  to  sleep  under  a  netting  as  protection  from  mos- 
quitoes. More  frequently  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth  is 
used  in  place  of  netting. 

While  the  houses  of  Iquitos  on  the  front  or  business 
street  are  more  pretentious,  the  rows  of  huts  on  the 
back  streets  are  so  numerous  that  they  resemble  long 
lines  of  straw  covered  hay  stacks  that  have  beeu 
standing  in  the  fields  long  enough  to  have  the  tops 
discolored  by  the  weather.  The  business  blocks  are 
constructed  of  ** wattle  and  daub,"  or  adobe,  covered 
sometimes  with  corrugated  iron  roofing  that  has  been 
imported  from  Belgium,  making  a  most  unbearable 
protection  from  a  tropical  sun,  but  the  novelty  of  the 
iron  seems  to  please  the  natives.  - 

There  is  a  curiosity  in  the  way  of  portable  houses  in 
the  town,  in  the  form  of  a  two-story  house  composed  en- 
tirely of  iron,  which  took  the  fancy  of  a  wealthy  native 
when  visiting  the  Paris  Exposition.  Because  he  had 
plenty  of  money  he  bought  it  as  it  stood,  had  it  taken 
down  and  shipped  to  Iquitos.  It  cost  double  its  price 
for  transportation  and  after  it  had  reached  Peru  it 
took  another  small  fortune  to  unpack  and  put  it  to- 
gether.    A  man  was  brought  from  Europe  for  the  pur- 


114  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

pose,  and  now  that  it  is  completed  it  is  untenable, 
except  at  night. 

There  are  a  few  families  of  refinement  living  in 
Iquitos,  but  it  is  quite  difficult  for  strangers  to  make 
their  acquaintance. 

As  illustrating  something  of  the  social  conditions  of 
Iquitos,  I  venture  to  relate  some  actual  occurences  dur- 
ing my  visits.  Soon  after  arrival,  on  this  a  first  visit, 
desiring  to  tell  an  inquiring  friend  and  a  resident, 
where  he  could  find  me,  I  thought  it  easiest  to  locate  my 
lodging  by  the  observation  that  my  house  was  directly 
opposite  the  thatched  cottage  of  the  pretty  little  senora, 
who  lived  with  another  woman's  husband,  and  also 
next  door  neighbor  to  her  husband,  who  was  living 
with  another  man's  wife.  To  this  rather  tangled 
direction  he  indifferently  replied,  "Why  nearly  all  the 
houses  might  answer  to  that  description." 

While  this  looseness  of  the  marriage  relation  is 
openly  practised  amongst  a  large  class  of  the  native 
people  who  may  not  be  able  to  commit  m-atrimony  be- 
cause of  the  expenses  of  the  ceremony  and  the  exactions 
of  the  church,  it  must  not  be  understood  that  these 
senoritas  are  generally  wicked.  As  a  matter  of  fact 
there  is  relatively  more  virtue  in  this  town  of  half 
civilized  people  than  exists  in  the  more  advanced 
civilization  of  Para  and  the  coast  towns.  While  the 
senoras  publicly  live  with  their  lovers,  they  may  not 
be  approached  promiscuously. 

It  is  the  general  belief  that  the  churches  as  con- 
ducted by  some  ignorant  native  priests  are,  to  a  degree, 
responsible  for  the  neglect  of  the  marriage  rites,  it 
being  admitted  that  the  fees  and  requirements  prevent 


SOCIAL  CONDITIONS 


115 


A  Street  In  Iquitos. 


116  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  ceremonial  wedding  amongst  the  poor  classes  as 
also  the  bad  example  and  life  of  the  Padre  amongst 
the   better   classes. 

Some  of  the  churches  in  these  interiors  which  do  not 
have  the  oversight  of  the  bishops,  are  often  controlled 
by  unscrupulous  priests  who  make  no  effort  to  correct 
the  existing  evils  and  the  people  have  become  accus- 
tomed to  the  conditions.  I  am  sure  the  intelligent 
Catholics  of  America  will  understand  that  in  calling 
attention  to  these  abuses,  I  am  prompted  only  by  a 
desire  to  give  facts  without  malice,  not  omitting  to 
tell  also  of  the  good  work  of  the  Catholic  church  in 
that  land  of  to-morrow. 

It  is  quite  well  known  that  in  many  instances  some 
of  the  priests  live  in  open  concubinage  in  their  parishes. 
At  Iquitos  the  young  Padre  lived  openly  with  a  pretty 
dark  eyed  senorita  who  ought  to  be  his  wife,  as  he  is 
the  acknowledged  father  of  her  two  children.  In  an- 
other instance  under  my  own  observation,  a  priest  be- 
came the  father  of  the  children  of  both  the  mother  and* 
daughter  of  the  same  household.  Don  Carlos  told  me 
of  a  jolly  and  popular  priest  who  was  so  proud  of  a 
bright  little  son  that  he  carried  him  about  on  his  pas- 
toral visits.  On  being  remonstrated  with  for  going 
aboard  an  English  vessel  with  his  boy,  he  retorted, 
indignantly,  *'Why  not?  I  want  you  to  understand 
this  is  my  boy.  I  am  a  man  and  a  father  just  as  you 
are.  I  took  an  obligation  never  to  marry,  but  that  is 
all.'^  It  did  not  occur  to  him  that  the  children  of  a 
priest  in  more  civilized  lands  would  have  to  suffer  for 
the  father  *s  sins,  but  in  those  heathen  lands  the  illigiti- 


SOME  UNWORTHY  PADRES  117 

mate  and  innocent  child  is  the  equal  of  all  before  the 
law  and  in  society. 

The  priests  generally  have  pretty  wives.  To  the 
credit  of  the  better  class  of  senoritas,  however,  it  should 
be  said  that  with  the  usual  want  of  woman's  charity 
toward  their  own  sex,  they  resent  and  ostracize  the 
sisters.  They  call  them  * '  mules, ' '  probably  because  the 
mule  is  supposed  to  have  no  offspring. 

The  church  opposite  my  lodging  was  a  deserted,  bam- 
like  looking  structure  of  adobe,  with  a  corrugated  iron 
roof.  The  fence  once  enclosing  the  neglected  grounds 
had  rotted  away,  so  that  pigs  and  goats  pastured  there, 
frequently  straying  inside  the  always  open  church 
doors.  To  my  friend,  Alberto  Bannister,  an  old  resident 
who  was  visiting  me  on  a  Sunday  morning,  I  remarked 
that  Iquitos  was  the  only  place  I  was  ever  in  where 
cows  and  pigs  went  to  church.  To  which  he  replied,  *'0, 
there  are  some  women  who  go  to  church  but  no  men 
attend,  unless  they  are  old  or  going  to  die'*;  adding, 
"When  we  see  an  active  young  fellow  going  to  church 
we  all  wonder  who  it  was  that  he  has  murdered,  the 
inference  being  that  a  man  who  goes  to  church  is  seek- 
ing forgiveness  for  some  crime.'* 

It  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  reach  the  principal 
points  en  route  during  their  religious  festas,  which  are 
the  most  interesting  days  of  the  year,  which  serve  to 
concentrate  all  the  people  of  the  surrounding  country 
in  the  town,  whom  it  may  be  said,  are  on  exhibition 
in  their  gayest  attire  and  on  their  happiest  behavior. 

In  Peru  as  in  Brazil  the  custom  requires  that  the 
senoritas  of  the  more  refined  class  be  restricted  to  mak- 
ing an  appearance  in  public  only  on  the  occasions  of 


118   .  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

these  festas  and  in  the  society  of  members  of  their  own 
families. 

On  Sundays  the  more  devout  attend  the  early  mass, 
confining  their  week  day  devotions  to  the  shrines 
erected  in  their  homes,  but  when  going  to  or  from  the 
church,  they  are  invariably  closely  wrapped  about  the 
head  and  shoulders  with  the  black  mantle  that  per- 
haps only  the  eyes  may  be  seen.  It  is  dangerous  as 
well  as  a  waste  of  time  to  attempt  to  flirt  with  a  pair 
of  these  wicked  eyes  peeping  through  a  black  lace 
mantle,  the  probabilities  being  that  below  the  pretty 
eyes  will  be  found  the  wrinkled  face  of  a  woman  that 
may  have  been  pretty  in  the  last  century. 

These  religious  festas  being  quite  frequent  oppor- 
tunity is  afforded  for  blue  eyed  blondes  to  cultivate 
agreeable  acquaintances,  even  though  unable  to  speak 
much  of  the  language.  The  senoritas  of  Peruvian  in- 
teriors are  adepts  in  telling  it  with  their  eyes. 

Spanish  is  the  language  of  Peru,  but  one  who  has 
come  through  Brazil  and  acquired  a  smattering  of 
Portuguese  can  get  along  fairly  well,  especially  in 
communication  with  a  senorita  (the  student  will  ob- 
serve that  the  Spanish  Senorita  drops  the  **h's"  from 
the  Portuguese  "Senhorita." 

It  is  really  wonderful  how  well  one  can  get  on,  who 
has  an  earnest  desire  for  gathering , information  from 
a  pretty  senorita  with  a  soft,  sweet  voice,  when  an 
effort  to  understand  the  bass  voice  of  a  senor  is  aban- 
doned in  disgust. 

Young  men  contemplating  travel  in  the  Spanish 
American  countries  need  not  bother  with  the  text 
books  or  the  grammars,  not  even  the  numerous  phrase 


.  A  COMPANION  DICTIONARY  119 

books  that  advertise  to  *' teach"  Spanish  in  twenty- 
minutes.  I  would  advise  that  immediately  on  arrival 
they  supply  themselves  with  what  is  known  as  a 
''companion  dictionary,"  usually  an  attractive  young 
person  who  will  also  serve  as  an  interpreter  and  in 
some  respects  act  as  a  guide  (one  who  can  speak  a 
little  English  is  preferred)  and  give  instruction  as 
occasion  or  necessity  requires,  for  using  the  Spanish 
words  with  the  correct  accent  which  the  books  cannot 
give. 

These  interpreters  need  not  necessarily  be  senors. 
One  may  secure  the  advantage  of  the  instructions  from 
a  pretty  senorita  who  may,  in  out  of  the  way  places  in 
the  interior,  keep  house  for  you  where  there  are  no 
hotels.  It  is  not  at  all  a  difficult  task  to  imbibe  a 
knowledge  of  Spanish  ways  when  one  has  a  senorita 
for  an  instructor  and  in  the  isolated  places  it  is  the 
custom  to  employ  these  aids.  Under  some  such  condi- 
tions the  traveller  may  be  aptly  charged  with  becom- 
ing a  ** dictionary  holder."  Some  persons  may  prefer 
a  young  man  who  will  act  as  valet  and  interpreter, 
sleeping  on  the  floor  near  his  master,  which  is  called 
the  ''sleeping  dictionary." 

Peru 's  Fourth  of  July  begins  on  the  twenty-eighth  of 
the  month  and  lasts  three  days,  during  which  the 
entire  population  of  the  surrounding  country  by  com- 
mand of  the  officials,  willingly  enough  abandon  them- 
selves to  pleasure  for  three  days — and  nights.  I  hap- 
pened to  arrive  a  few  days  preceding  while  the  town 
was  apparently  sleeping  all  of  the  hot  days,  a  Sunday- 
like stillness  pervading  in  the  bright  sunshine,  with 
closed  houses  and  deserted  streets  and  could  scarcelv 


120  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

realize  the  sudden  transformation  during  this  political 
holiday. 

The  sub-Prefect,  who  is  certainly  the  ''boss"  of  the 
village,  issues  the  usual  instructions  for  the  national 
observance.  Every  house  is  required  to  display  a 
Peruvian  flag.  One  may  imagine  the  gay  appearance 
of  the  thatched  huts,  from  every  one  of  which  is  sus- 
pended the  three  broad,  vertical  bars  of  red,  white  and 
red,  as  also  profuse  floral  decorations  of  fragrant 
flowers  and  quantities  of  palms  brought  from  the 
woods,  from  which  rustic  arches  and  bowers  are  con- 
structed. 

The  Consul  fromBrazil  displayed  the  ugly  yellow  and 
green  flag  of  his  country  along  with  those  of  the  other 
neighboring  states.  My  friend  and  host's  elegant  house 
was  gaily  decorated  and  at  night  brilliantly  illumi- 
nated, the  beautiful  tricolors  of  his  dear  La  Belle 
France  floating  with  that  of  Peru,  from  his  front  bal- 
conies, his  French  cook  insisting  on  showing  his  colors 
also  from  the  kitchen  portico  in  the  rear. 

As  an  American  visitor  I  regretted  the  conspicuous 
absence  of  our  beautiful  flag,  which  it  was  perhaps 
expected  that  I,  as  the  ''Consul  Americano,"  would 
display,  but  upon  diligent  inquiry  I  could  not  find  the 
Stars  and  Stripes  in  the  town,  or  material  good  enough 
to  make  one  to  suit.  I  called  upon  the  sub-Prefect  to 
explain  and  to  tender  my  services  as  an  "orator," 
which  he  accepted  in  the  jolly  way  it  was  intended.  I 
took  part  in  the  jollifications  as  an  American  citizen. 
The  English  shipping  on  the  river  displayed  all  their 
bunting,  the  officers  joining  with  the  foreign  element 
in  an  earnest  effort  to  encourage  celebrations  of  the 


PERU'S  FOURTH  OP  JULY       121 

sort,  as  we  were  accustomed  to  do  at  home  and  I  think 
we  succeeded  in  making  an  impression. 

On  the  little  plaza  in  front  of  the  Prefecture  or 
palace  where  the  principal  arches  had  been  created, 
the  principal  ceremonies  occurred  and  by  the  way  the 
traveller  in  those  lands  must  be  prepared  to  endure 
'ceremonies"  without  end.  Apparently  the  smaller 
the  place  or  occasion,  the  greater  the  ceremonies. 
After  dark  some  fireworks  were  let  off,  that  I  thought 
was  an  accident,  as  all  seemed  to  go  at  once,  but  was 
told  it  was  considered  a  great  success  for  Iquitos.  Until 
late  in  the  evening  the  senors  lingered  in  groups  or 
following  bevies  of  senoritas  who  straggled  about  where 
there  was  plenty  of  light,  it  being  the  custom  for  the 
girls  to  get  in  groups  and  the  boys  do  likewise,  seldom 
getting  together  in  couples  for  a  promenade.  There 
were  many  senoritas  whose  tasteful  dress  and  ease  of 
bearing  with  a  happy  dignity  of  manner,  that  com- 
manded admiration  and  respect  as  also  numerous  bare 
headed  and  barefooted  Chola  girls  who  seemed  to  be 
entirely  content  and  happy  each  in  her  way. 

Earlier  in  the  evening  I  listened  to  a  little  senorita 
of  ten  or  twelve  with  the  pretty  name  of  Madena,  skill- 
fully execute  on  a  German  piano  the  well  known  waltz, 
'"Sobra  Las  Olas,"  or  "Over  the  Waves,"  her  young 
friends  dancing  gracefully  on  the  'tiled  floor  of  her 
courteous  father's  cottage,  adjoining  Don  Carlos'.  As 
a  rule  they  do  not  waltz  or  polka  in  this  Land  of 
To-morrow,  the  favorite  dance  being  the  fandango,, a 
sort  of  rag  time  quadrille,  quite  graceful  and  fascinat- 
ing in  its  peculiar  abandon.  Each  of  the  dancers 
in   the   fandango   held   in   the   hand   a   handkerchief, 


122  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

gracefully  waving  it  over  the  partner  as  they  glide  over 
the  floor  to  the  torn  torn  music  accompanying  the  man- 
dolin or  guitar,  supplemented  sometimes  by  a  flute 
made  from  a  bit  of  bamboo  or  reed.  Though  the  fan- 
dango is  considered  a  sensuous  dance,  the  undulations 
of  the  dancers  and  some  of  the  gyrations  distractingly 
suggestive,  it  is  a  peculiarity  that  the  dancers  may  not 
touch  their  partners,  the  object  or  effort  of  the  couples 
seeming  to  be  an  effort  to  try  to  see  how  close  they 
can  pjay  a  game  of  "never  touched  me.'* 

The  Indians  of  whom  there  are  a  number  in  society 
in  Iquitos,  participate  in  these  affairs  with  zest  in 
their  own  wild  and  reckless  manner,  wholly  abandoning 
themselves  for  the  time  being  to  drinking  rum  all 
day  and  dancing  all  night.  They  have  no  conception 
of  the  purpose  or  object  of  the  holiday  and  are  not 
impressed  by  the  flow  of  oratory  as  they  are  of  the 
rum,  and  their  poetry  is  expressed  in  the  motion  of  the 
dance  at  night.  They  look  upon  the  white  man's 
display  of  flags,  fireworks  and  brass  bands  with  open- 
mouth  wonder,  their  faces  wearing  all  the  while  that 
stolid  expression  peculiar  to  the  Indian  everywhere. 
While  the  ceremonies  are  going  on  they  assemble  in 
the  huts  in  the  rear  of  the  town  and  drink  cachasa 
which  in  Peru  changes  its  name  to  "aguadiente"  in 
sufficient  quantities  to  kill  hard  drinking  white  men, 
but  under  its  influence  will  execute  dances  in  their 
naked  feet  on  earthen  floors  to  the  torn  tom  drums  that 
are  indeed  wildly  wonderful. 

Guided  by  the  drums,  I  left  the  crowd  on  the  front 
street  and  wandered  alone  to  the  Indian  quarters  that 


CHOLO  GIRLS  OF  PERU  123 

I  might  peer  through  the  bamboo  slats  or  walls  of  their 
huts. 

While  it  cannot  be  said  the  young  Indian  girls  are 
pretty,  their  faces  showing  some  of  the  best  features  of 
the  Indian,  many  of  them  reproducing  the  best  char- 
acteristics of  the  Spanish  which  give  them  a  graceful 
and  dignified  bearing  that  is  especially  noticeable  in 
the  dances.  The  absence  of  facial  beauty  is  further 
compensated  by  their  almost  uniform  good  figures.  I 
do  not  exaggerate  in  the  statement  that  the  Chola  girl 
of  Peru  possesses  types  of  the  human  form  divine  that 
for  perfect  symmetry  is  not  excelled  in  any  land,  per- 
haps I  should  qualify  that  statement  by  adding — as 
far  as  I  have  been  able  to  observe.  A  Chola,  which 
by  the  way,  are  the  descendents  of  the  original  Spanish 
conqueror  and  the  Inca,  is  of  a  different  mould  than 
the  squatty  savage  of  the  lower  Amazon,  at  the  age  of 
ten  to  fifteen  are  living  models  in  bronze,  of  perfectly 
formed  young  women.  Girls  living  the  out  of  door 
life  of  that  climate  mature  early,  being  fully  developed 
from  eight  to  ten  and  often  wives  and  mothers  at 
twelve.  It  is  also  true  that  the  old  women  of  this 
race  who  have  reared  children,  preserve  good  forms  to 
a  greater  degree  than  is  generally  believed  of  the 
middle  aged  or  old  persons  in  tropical  lands. 

The  habit  of  the  women,  carrying  water  on  their 
heads  almost  constantly  from  early  childhood,  in  their 
peculiar  shaped  jars,  tends  to  create  an  erectness  of 
bearing  and  an  easy  and  gliding  carriage  that  would 
be  the  envy  of  the  girls  in  our  more  favored  lands, 
where  it  is  a  profession  to  teach  and  a  fad  to  practice, 


124  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  graces  which  the  wild  Indian  girl  possesses  natur- 
ally. 

Seldom  wearing  shoes  the  Indian  and  the  Chola  girl 
glide  smoothly  over  the  ground  carpeted  only  by 
nature,  with  a  peculiar  softness  of  step  which,  with  the 
willowy  forms  and  well  developed  figures  as  elastic  as 
rubber,  gives  to  their  dances  a  charm,  heightened  by 
the  weird  music  and  clapping  accompaniment  of 
friends  and  with  the  natural  decoration  of  the  palms 
and  tropical  foliage,  becomes  truly  aboriginal  or  Indian 
poetry  expressed  in  motion. 

On  the  evening  of  this  festa  the  Indian  girls  in  their 
gorgeous  costumes,  dance  along  at  the  head  of  the 
procession,  kicking  up  the  dust  of  the  middle  of  the 
road  as  they  moved  along,  followed  by  the  tom  tom 
music  and  the  entire  Indian  population  of  the  place  of 
all  ages  and  sizes,  a  grotesque  procession  that  could 
hardly  be  equalled  by  our  burlesque  parades  in  masks. 
The  way  is  always  cleared  for  the  Indian  processions, 
which  are  conducted  without  a  word  being  spoken,  the 
movements  being  directed  by  the  taps  of  the  drum. 
But  if  interfered  with,  while  performing  their  rites 
when  under  the  influence  of  aguadiente,  they  are  liable 
to  become  truly  savage. 

On  another  evening  I  was  invite4  to  attend  one  of 
the  more  select  affairs  in  one  of  the  more  pretentious 
houses — with  a  brick  floor — where  the  dancers  wore 
shoes.  The  hostess,  a  middle  aged  half  breed,  wel- 
comed the  blonde  Americano  with  a  pressure  of  the 
hand  that  made  the  guest  fairly  wince.  She  said  she 
was  glad  to  see  an  Englishman  because  her  late  dear 


A  FANDANGO  125 

departed  "husband'*  was  an  Englishman.  He  had 
recently  ** departed''  down  the  river. 

Around  the  room  were  seated  a  number  of  well 
dressed  senoras,  married  ladies  or  widows,  as  distin- 
guished from  senoritas,  or  the  unmarried  miss,  with  a 
sprinkling  of  senors,  as  all  grades  of  men  are  called, 
who  can  wear  a  moustache  and  look  wicked  out  of 
black  eyes,  amongst  whom  I  noticed  the  officers  of  the 
Joan  Alfredo  which  was  yet  in  port. 

The  music  for  this  occasion  was  mandolins  and 
guitars.  The  first  dance  was  the  fandango  with  the 
variegated  handkerchief  accompaniment,  the  move- 
ment being  perhaps  a  bit  restrained  because  of  the 
presence  of  several  foreigners.  Wine  was  passed  in 
one  glass,  from  which  each  person  was  supposed  to 
take  one  sip  and  but  for  a  vigorous  nudge  of  my 
American  escort  I  would  have  made  the  mistake  of 
swallowing  the  entire  contents  of  the  loving  cup.  We 
talked  or  tried  to  be  agreeable  to  every  one,  even  to 
attempting  to  teach  senoritas  something  we  did  not 
know  about  an  American  waltz. 

I  had  noticed  a  table  in  one  corner  covered  with  a 
cloth  containing  some  holy  ornaments  and  lighted 
candles,  that  are  common  in  that  country  among  the 
very  devout. 

There  was  also  a  small  red  box  on  the  table  which 
I  thought  might  contain  refreshments  to  be  served 
later,  but  not  wishing  to  appear  too  anxious  or  curious 
I  asked  no  questions.  But  an  hour  after  I  learned 
incidentally  that  the  little  red  looking  jewel  casket 
surrounded  by  candles,  contained  the  body  of  a  baby. 
The  mother,  nursing  another  child,  sat  near  her  dead 


126  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

infant  apparently  as  happy  as  the  other  people",  who 
had  assembled  in  this  way  to  express  their  sympathy 
and  sorrow. 

My  companion  declared  it  was  the  usual  custom  to 
have  a  dance  when  any  one  died,  which  I  found  to  be 
correct. 

A  distinguished  resident,  who  was  much  amused  at 
my. surprise,  assured  me  that  the  three  principal  events 
in  a  woman's  life  there,  are  those  that  afford  oppor- 
tunity for  a  dance.  First,  when  she  is  married ;  second, 
when  her  baby  is  christened;  and  third,  when  it  dies. 
She  is  equally  happy  on  each  occasion,  every  addition 
to  her  family  affording  an  opportunity  for  a  dance. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

HE  Amazon,  which  retains  the  name  in 
Peru,  flows  from  the  several  large 
affluents  from  the  north  in  Ecuador, 
and  the  west  and  south  of  Peru,  all 
of  which  claim  to  be  the  true  source. 
It  is  generally  conceded,  however, 
that  the  stream  from  the  most  west- 
erly direction  known  as  the  Maranon, 
deserves  the  honor  by  reason  of 
first  discovery.  The  largest  river  and  the  longest 
in  the  world,  however,  is  the  Ucayali  (pro- 
nounced as  if  spelled  **You-kay-yally*')  which  enters 
the  Amazon  a  few  hours'  steamboating  above  Iquitos. 
It  is  also  the  most  important  in  the  way  of  affording 
opportunities  for  extensive  steam  navigation  in  Eastern 
Peru,  being  navigable  for  the  larger  vessels  for  a 
thousand  miles  southerly  to  the  junction  of  the  Tambo 
and  Urubamba,  paralleling  the  Cordilleras,  which  are 
in  sight  to  the  west,  while  beyond  this  junction,  the 
Urubamba  extends  another  thousand  miles  of  canoe 
navigation  to  almost  its  source  in  the  last  range  of  the 
Andes,  beyond  the  ancient  city  of  Cuzco. 

The  Tambo  and  tributaries,  Perene  and  Pichis,  com- 
ing from  the  west,  are  navigable  for  small  boats  and 
canoes  to  a  point  farthest  west,  within  a  few  days' 
travel  on  mules  of  the  end  of  Oroyo  Railway,  reaching 
Lima  on  the  Pacific. 

The  lower  Ucayali  is  prolific  in  fine  rubber  forests 
127 


128  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

which  are  being  developed  by  Brazilians  who  find  it 
a  far  richer  district  than  the  ''Javary,'*  which  it 
almost  parallels. 

As  it  is  proposed  to  make  the  return  journey  by  the 
Ucayali,  the  detailed  description  is  left  fo-r  a  second 
volume. 

This  narrative  follows  the  more  westerly  route,  by 
four  days  steam  boating  on  the  main  Amazon,  to  its 
junction  with  the  Maranon  and  Huallugua,  which  form 
the  Amazon  proper.  The  Huallagua  (pronounced 
*'Waal-yag-ah")  has  its  source  in  the  southwesterly 
Andes  near  Cerro  de  Pasco  and  is  only  navigable  for 
a  short  distance.  The  Maranon  is  navigable  for  a  few 
days,  as  distance  is  reckoned,  to  a  point  known  as  the 
Pongo  Mansierriche,  meaning  the  gateway  or  the  be- 
ginning and  ending  of  the  hills,  a  wonderful  canyon  or 
gorge  in  the  Andes  through  which  the  river  in  the  ages 
has  carved  its  passage.  This  gateway  is  closed  to  all 
access  in  the  direction  of  the  west,  the  ascent  of  the 
river  through  the  narrow  channel  has  never  been 
attempted  on  account  of  the  cachioura  or  falls,  which 
in  volume  and  torrent  exceed  those  of  the  Colorado 
canyons. 

The  Maranon,  as  it  is  called  above  and  below  this 
point,  is 'said  to  have  derived  the  name  from  the  words 
of  exclamation  of  some  of  the  early  explorers  of 
Pizarros*  time,  who  were  miraculously  carried  through 
the  Pongo  on  their  rafts  and  being  dumped  into  the 
broad  expanse  of  water  which  spreads  like  a  lake 
below  the  mountain  gorge,  exclaimed  ' '  Mar-o-non, " 
which  may  be  roughly  interpreted,  "  Sea-or-not. " 

Histories  and  school  books  tell  different  stories  of  the 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  NAME  AMAZON  129 

origin  of  the  name  Amazon.  The  legend  gathered  from 
tradition  in  that  region  gives  these  same  wonderful 
Spanish  explorers  the  credit  of  naming  the  river  they 
discovered.  They  were  educated  men  of  the  age  in 
which  they  lived,  being  familiar  with  the  ancient  his- 
tory, wherein  the  warrior  women  of  certain  Eastern 
princes,  described  as  the  body  guard  of  Dahomey,  were 
on  account  of  their  masculine  appearance  known  as 
''Amazons.** 

When  the  Spaniards  who  had  been  launched  through 
the  Pongo  into  the  * '  Mar-o-non  * '  found  they  could  not 
return  by  that  route,  they  attempted  to  go  on  down 
stream  on  their  rafts  when  they  were  attacked  by  half- 
naked  Indians  from  the  forests  whom  they  believed 
were  women  because  they  were  without  beards  and 
wore  long  hair,  and  they  called  them  Amazons.  They 
probably  soon  learned  of  their  mistake,  but  the  name 
remains. 

Not  being  able  to  get  over  the  Andes  by  this  gateway 
of  the  Pongo  Mansierriche,  which  is  the  most  direct 
route  due  west  we  followed  the  Rio  Huallagua,  south- 
west, for  another  day  from  its  junction  with  Maranon, 
to  the  head  of  navigation  in  that  direction  at  a  place 
called  Yurrimaguas,  which  is  four  days  steamboating 
west  of  Iquitos.  Distances  are  calculated  by  the  time 
occupied  in  getting  there  by  canoe  or  boat. 

Our  ugly  looking  little  steamboat  bears  the  pretty 
name  of  "Sabia"  (pronounced  ''Sabe-ah")  after  a  very 
small  bird  with  a  long  tail  which  sings  beautifully  at 
night  from  the  forests  when  disturbed  by  the  passing 
boat. 

Our  captain  was  a  young  English  sailor  known  famil- 


130  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOKROW 

iarly  as  * '  Tommy  Jennings. ' '  The  Sabia  is  the  Amazon 
auxiliary,  or  feeder  for  the  larger  boats  that  come 
only  to  Iquitos.  She  is  called  an  American  boat  be- 
cause of  her  flat  bottom  and  stern  wheel,  though  she 
was  built  in  England  of  light  steel  hull  and  wooden 
upper  deck,  as  one  of  the  special  boats  for  the  famous 
Nile  expedition  and  .subsequently  sent  out  to  the  Ama- 
zon in  sections,  where  she  has  done  excellent  service. 
The  Amazon  officials  as. well  as  the  business  people 
along  the  upper  rivers,  are  being  shown  by  this  illus- 
tration the  superiority  of  the  American  style  of  boat 
for  the  navigation  of  the  numerous  small  rivers  over 
the  regulation  deep  keel  wedge  shaped  English  hull 
which  draws  too  much  water  during  the  dry  season. 
The  English  officers,  in  spite  of  their  prejudice  against 
everything  American,  admit  that  their  light  stern  wheel 
Sabia  travels  as  fast  and  carries  as  much  cargo,  at  less 
expense  and  accommodates  more  passengers  than  the 
yacht  shaped  hulls  that  are  forever  giving  trouble 
by  grounding  on  the  bars  of  the  ever  changing  channel 
of  the  smaller  rivers. 

It  will  be  apparent  that  there  are  wonderful  oppor- 
tunities on  the  numerous  rivers  of  the  alto  or  upper 
Amazon  for  the  profitable  introduction  of  American 
trade,  through  the  means  of  transportation  facilities. 

There  are  thousands  of  miles  of  good  steam  naviga- 
tion in  Peruvian  waters,  free  to  all  nations,  adapted  to 
vessels  drawing  from  four  to  ten  feet.  .  The  forests 
that  are  penetrated  only  by  the  rivers  are  rich  in  untold 
figures  in  rubber,  caucho,  cabinet  woods,  dyes,  nuts, 
hides,  etc.,  which  may  be  had  at  comparatively  trifling 
expense.     There   are   millions   of   dollars   of  valuable 


c  ^ 


CQ 


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Vi 

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AMERICAN  BOATS  FOR  AM.iZON         131 

products  decaying  in  the  forests  for  want  of  the  trans- 
portation to  get  them  to  the  markets. 

As  already  stated  a  rubber  forest  is  as  valuable  as 
a  developed  gold  mine  and  it  may  be  added  that  the 
forests  of  the  Equator  are  as  rich  as  the  most  profitable 
silver  and  gold  mining.  The  natural  productions  in 
the  form  of  remedies  for  the  ills  of  mankind,  in  the 
materia  medica,  which  the  wealth  of  the  forests  pro- 
duce, alone  are  of  value  and  indispensible  for  our  civi- 
lization. 

There  are  some  disadvantages  connected  with  rubber 
gathering  on  the  lower  Amazon  that  have  not  to  be 
contended  with  in  the  upper  Amazon,  more  particu- 
larly the  yellow  fever. 

There  are  some  eighteen  or  twenty  steam  launches 
owned  by  private  business  houses  in  Iquitos  that  are 
doing  a  considerable  business  in  trading  in  the  adjacent 
rivers.  Each  of  these  little  boats  is  a  floating  shop  on 
which  all  sorts  of  cheap  goods  are  carried  for  supplying 
the  rubber  gatherers  or  the  native  trader.  On  some  of 
the  boats  the  goods  are  gaudily  displayed  over  the 
decks  giving  the  craft  a  sort  of  gala  day  appearance 
which  attracts  the  natives  on  board. 

On  some  boats  the  goods  are  arranged  on  shelves  as 
in  the  shops  of  the  towns.  The  principal  stock  in  trade 
consists  of  such  provisions  as  the  rubber  gatherer 
requires  including  a  large  supply  of  rum  or  cachasa, 
blue  shirts  and  overalls,  cheap  guns  and  ammunition 
and  a  collection  of  Yankee  notions  made  in  Germany  for 
the  Indian  women. 

These  boats,  navigating  the  numerous  tributaries, 
use  wood  for  fuel  at  the  cost  for  the  gathering  from  the 


132  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

banks.  They  go  and  come  as  they  please,  ascending 
all  the  small  rivers  and  creeks,  stopping  at  all  points 
desired  to  dispose  of  their  cheap  goods  at  enormous 
profits,  for  which  they  receive  in  payment  the  gath- 
erer's crude  rubber  or  his  collection  of  sarsaparilla 
copiba  and  other  valuable  products  which  are  weighed 
in  the  trader's  doctored  scales  and  paid  for  at  lowest 
possible  figure  to  be  conveyed  by  their  own  boats  to 
Iquitos  where  it  will  turn  into  gold  coin  at  sight.  The 
owners  live  on  their  boats,  pay  no  house  rents,  but  few 
taxes  and  a  trifling  license,  and  are  at  no  expense  for 
freighting,  storage,  hauling  or  commissions.  The  goods 
come  to  the  Amazon  via  Para,  Manaos  and  Iquitos. 
Money  is  of  little  value  to  the  Indian  rubber  gatherer 
whose  necessities  are  few  and  easily  supplied.  I  would 
rather  go  into  the  forests  with  a  boat  load  of  gew  gaws, 
than  with  gold  coin.  A  red  bandana  handkerchief  will 
obtain  a^lmost  everything  that  an  Indian  woman 
possesses,  while  a  hand  mirror  and  a  supply  of  five 
cent  jewelry  will  secure  the  affections  of  the  Indian 
maidens.  For  the  old  Indians,  cheap  prints  of  the 
Saints  or  brass  crucifixes  are  good  missionary  contri- 
butions. 

The  English  built  boats  are  not  adapted  to  this  trade, 
being  usually  second  hand  harbor  tugs  that  are  con- 
structed for  a  cold  climate  and  are  unbearable  in  the 
tropics,  their  machinery  occupying  most  of  the  space. 

It  is  perfectly  safe  to  suggest  to  any  Americans  who 
m.^y  be  interested  in  the  subject,  that  the  introduction 
of  these  boats  will  be  welcomed  and  substantially  en- 
couraged by  the  government  and  the  people  of  Peru. 
The  government  of  Peru  is  not  only  ready  but  anxious 


PERUVIAN  SUBSIDY  133 

to  extend  a  helping  hand  in  way  of  liberal  subsidies  to 
encourage  American  commerce  to  the  Amazon.  The 
money  will  be  paid  in  cash  at  Iquitos  on  the  separate 
account  of  the  department  of  Eastern  Peru. 

The  field  in  Peru,  Ecuador  and  Bolivia  is  equally 
as  good  as  that  of  Brazil.  < 

The  **dry  season"  begins  on  the  same  date  each 
year,  the  24th  of  June  or  St.  John's  day,  when  the 
Amazon  floods  begin  to  recede,  but  it  never  gets  too  low 
for  ocean  vessels  to  come  to  Iquitos.  Fortunately  the 
summer  months  are  the  dull  season,  during  which  the 
rubber  is  not  tapped,  but  the  local  trader  occupies  the 
time  in  preparation  for  work. 

The  "Sabia"  paddles  along  slowly  stopping  at  every 
landing  for  several  hours  and  tying  up  every  night. 
There  are  a  number  of  passengers  en  route  to  river 
landings  and  Yurrimaguas,  nearly  all  of  whom  are 
engaged  in  the  rubber  gathering.  There  is  also  the 
usual  complement  of  senoritas,  a  couple  of  whom  are 
bound  over  the  mountains  to  one  of  the  interior  towns 
of  Peru.  A  young  girl  in  the  last  stages  of  consump- 
tion is  being  conveyed  by  her  brother  to  the  drier 
altitudes  of  the  Cordilleras,  in  hopes  of  prolonging  her 
life.  We  had  also  as  a  companion  du  voyage  the 
Iquitos  Padre,  who  having  left  his  family  at  home  was 
quite  attentive  to  the  ladies  on  board.  The  general 
characteristics  of  the  passengers  resemble  those  on  the 
lower  rivers,  except  that  these  are  Peruanas  and  speak 
in  the  Spanish  instead  of  the  Portuguese. 

We  put  in  the  time  eating,  lounging  in  hammocks, 
smoking  cigarettes,  ending  each  day  with  the  fan- 
dango, which  attracts  all  hands  to  the  rear  deck,  even 


134  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  Indians  from  the  decks  below,  who  stand  around  the 
guards  with  open  mouth  enjoyment. 

As  we  go  west  toward  the  interior  the  type  of  the 
Spanish  Indian  predominates.  They  are  known  as  the 
"Christiano"  Indians,  so  called  because  they  have  em- 
braced the  Catholic  faith. 

The  Indian  of  the  Amazon  inhabiting  the  tropical 
forest  that  fringe  the  numerous  affluents  in  Peru,  are 
not  as  savage  and  war  like  as  were  the  Indians  of 
our  wild  west.  While  they  are  more  tracticable  they 
are  perhaps  more  treacherous  and  degraded.  This  may 
be  attributed  to  the  climatic  influences  of  the  Equator 
which  affects  similarly  the  wild  beasts  of  the  forests, 
not  having  that  ferocious  instinct  of  the  wild  animals 
of  the  temperate  zones. 

The  comparison  may  be  carried  further  and  applied 
appropriately  to  the  mass  of  humanity  living  under 
the  Equator.  But  this  opens  a  broad  field  for  scientific 
discussion  of  the  climatic  influences,  not  only  regard- 
ing the  healthfulness  of  the  body,  but  its  influence  upon 
the  mental  and  moral  conditions,  which  I  have  only 
ventured  to  illustrate  from  personal  observation. 

When  I  say  that  ''there  are  'white'  Indians  in  upper 
Amazonia, ' '  the  casual  reader  may  think  this  fiction, 
instead  of  a  narrative  of  fact  and  observation.  I  am 
endeavoring  to  tell  only  of  the  things  seen,  not  the 
thousand  and  one  more  wonderful  things  heard  about. 
That  there  are  white  Indians  may  be  believed  because 
the  writer  has  seen  and  talked  to  one  who  wears  the  dis- 
tinctive mark  of  a  strong  beard  with  a  white  skin  who 
is  white  in  the  same  sense  that  the  ordinary  Spaniard 
is  a  white  man.     This  white  Indian  with  whom  I  talked, 


WHITE  INDIANS  135 

however,  was  about  as  dumb  and  stupid  a  specimen  of 
humanity  as  one  may  see  in  an  asylum    for  imbeciles. 

But  this  does  not  apply  generally  to  the  white  Indian 
or  the  wild  white  man.  On  the  contrary  one  of  the 
prettiest — in  truth  the  belle  of  Iquitos,  a  most  accom- 
plished senorita,  is  a  lineal  descendent  of  this  remark- 
able white  tribe. 

The  Senorita  Clemencia  may  be  described  as  a  rare 
and  beautiful  orchid  which  blooms  in  the  wilderness  of 
the  Amazon.  She  is  rather  below  the  medium  in  height 
and  weight,  of  a  decided  light  complexion,  as  compared 
with  the  native  Spanish  type,  dark  brown  eyes,  and  a 
wealth  of  dark  hair,  which  would  almost  envelope 
her  perfectly  formed  body.  One  of  those  straight  out 
girls,  whose  every  movement  is  gracefully  bewitching, 
and  the  dignified  easy  bearing  that  proves  the  saying 
that  "blood  will  tell"  even  in  the  forests.  Though 
more  reserved  than  the  ordinary  senorita,  Clemencia 
wears  a  fascinating  smile  and  returns  a  pleasant  nod 
of  recognition  with  the  softly  accentuated  *'buenos 
dias,  senor"  to  all  who  may  be  so  fortunate  as  to  catch 
her  eye  at  her  balcony  window. 

The  story  of  the  white  Indians,  as  I  gathered  it,  would 
make  a  most  interesting  romance.  Briefly  summarized 
it  is: 

**The  party  of  Spanish  explorers  who  came  through 
the  Pongo  Mansierriche  comprised  a  number  of  dis- 
tinguished men  who  had  incurred  the  hostility  of 
Pizarro  in  his  warfare  on  the  Incas  and  managed  to 
escape  by  shooting  the  rapids  and  cascades  in  the  rafts 
on  which  they  risked  themselves  on  the  river  Maranon 
which  has  its  rise  near  the  Inca  city  of  Cajamarca, 


136  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

where  Pizarro  murdered  the  Atahualpa,  the  last  of  the 
Inca  dynasty.  Amongst  the  disaffected  was  a  young 
Spanish  nobleman  who  with  his  associates  had  the  usual 
measure  of  trouble  in  his  own  land,  either  through 
political  or  love  affairs,  and  not  desiring  to  return  to 
Spain  or  remain  with  Pizarro,  took  this  means  of 
exiling  himself  to  this  most  inaccessible  part  of  the  new 
world. 

Perhaps,  too,  they  may  have  been  influenced  some- 
what by  the  prevailing  fever  for  gold  and  were  led  into 
this  fastness  by  the  Indians  who  were  aware  of  its 
existence  in  the  region  above  the  Pongo. 

This  party  formed  a  settlement  just  below  the  Pongo 
on  the  banks  of  the  Maranon,  perhaps  the  most  beauti- 
ful location  to  be  found  on  a  thousand  miles  of  river. 
They  named  the  romantic  place  ^'Borjo"  situated  so 
close  to  the  Pongo  that  the  rush  of  the  water  over  the 
falls  is  heard. 

This  exclusive  colony  was  also  better  able  to  conduct 
its  prospecting  for  gold  by  washings,  which  is  yet 
found  in  abundance  in  .these  rivers. 

They  did  not  marry  promiscuously  with  the  Indian 
women,  but  probably  brought  with  them  some  of  the 
Inca  woman,  whom  all  historians  will  recognize  as  of  a 
cast  superior  to  the  ordinary  native  of  whom  Clemencia 
is  a  descendent. 

In  time  they  were  dispersed  by  savage  tribes  or 
satisfied  with  the  gold  they  had  gathered,  returned  to 
Spain  by  the  Amazon  and  the  Atlantic.  From  the 
remnant  remaining  on  the  Maranon  springs  the  white 
Indian  tribe,  of  which  the  fair  Clemencia  is  a  type 
whose  every  movement  betrays  superior  breeding.  This 


FIRST  SETTLEMENT  137 

little  senorita  is  recognized  among  her  very  few  asso- 
ciates as  a  little  princess.  She  lives  alone  with  her 
mother  like  a  recluse,  or  when  on  the  street  on  her 
way  to  church,  resembling  a  nun,  attired  in  the  black 
mantilla,  covering  all  but  her  expressive,  down  cast 
eyes.  Her  house  is  like  a  convent,  into  which  men  are 
never  admitted,  and  it  is  said  the  little  descendent 
declines  all  overtures  from  the  dark-eyed  Don  lovers. 

The  ruins  of  the  early  settlement  only  remain  like 
crumbling  tombstones  to  mark  the  spot  where  this 
most  daring  of  enterprises  was  long  since  attempted 
and  abandoned.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  other  set- 
tlements have  not  been  affected  in  this  desirable 
locality,  probably  because  of  the  recognized  hostility 
of  the  Indians  who  are  also  the  descendents  of  the 
first  settlers,  and  who  taught  their  children  the  value 
of  their  location  and  the  desirability  of  keeping  the 
secret  of  its  deposits  to  themselves.  It  is  quite  well 
known,  however,  that  the  rivers  above  and  below  the 
Pongo  are  rich  in  the  gold  washings,  indicating  greater 
deposits  in  the  mountains  above  which  have  never  been 
prospected  on  account  of  the  hostility  of  the  Indians 
and  the  difficulty  of  access. 

The  Maranon  leading  to  the  west  is  only  navigable 
as  far  as  the  Pongo  or  gateway,  a  couple  of  days' 
canoeing  or  boating  above  the  confluence  with  the  Hual- 
lagua,  which  the  narrative  follows  in  a  southwesterly 
direction  for  another  day  to  the  town  of  Yurrimaguas 
where  substantially  all  steam  navigation  to  the  west 
ends,  the  rapids  and  numerous  rocky  obstructions 
above  Yurrimaguas  making  steam  navigation  haz- 
ardous. 


138  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

A  number  of  important  affluents  enter  the  Huallagua 
and  Maranon,  any  one  of  which  may  be  navigated 
by  small  boats,  almost  as  distant  or  as  far  as  on  the 
main  stream,  the  peculiarity  of  the  small  rivers  being 
that  they  are  almost  as  deep  and  long  a&  the  main 
streams.  At  the  time  of  my  first  visit  all  of  these  side 
streams  v^ere  rich  in  rubber  or  caucho  forests.  The 
most  important  are  not  indicated  on  any  maps,  being 
scarcely  known  except  by  the  Indian  canoeists.  Among 
these  may  be  named  the  '^Chiparianna,"  which  comes 
from  the  east,  being  navigable  to  within  a  few  hours 
of  the  Ucayali,  a  channel  may  easily  be  cut  through 
the  low  ground  connecting  the  two  rivers.  There  is 
also  the  ' '  Yamyuca, ' " '  Straunuse, "  ' '  Paranapura ' '  and 
the  large  lake  ''Cuiperi."  The  ''Cainarachi"  is  the 
most  important  perhaps,  coming  as  it  does  from  the 
west,  making  a  more  direct  route  by  canoe  towards  the 
valleys  of  Tarapota  and  Moyabamba,  whither  this  nar- 
rative leads. 

I  was  particularly  fortunate  in  making  the  acquain- 
tance during  the  voyage  on  the  ''Sabia,"  of  Sr.  Don 
Juan  Morey,  the  principal  merchant  of  Yurrimaguas, 
to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  many  courtesies,  anvl  the 
reader  for  reliable  information.  On  arrival  at  Yurri- 
maguas the  Americano  was  hospitably  entertained  at 
Don  Juan's  house,  the  senora  with  her  beautiful  sis- 
ters vieing  with  each  other  in  kind  attention  to  the 
only  Americano   seen  in  that  village. 

Yurrimaguas  has  been  described  as  a  collection  of 
mud  huts,  situated  on  a  high  bluff  near  the  junction  of 
a  small  river  with  the  Huallagua,  a  beautiful  location 
for  an  ugly  town,  the  hills  sloping  gradually  to  the 


YURRIJMAGUAS 


139 


!^'^r 


YuRRiMAGUAS— Don  Juan's  Home. 


140  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

river.  In  the  distant  background  are  the  blue  outlines 
of  the  Andes.  This  blue  streak  across  the  horizon,  even 
though  it  has  the  appearance  of  an  obstacle  across  the 
path  we  are  following,  is  most  inspiriting,  especially  to 
a  traveller,  who  has  for  weeks  and  months  been  sloAvly 
moving  through  a  monotonous  density  of  low  lying 
forest  with  only  the  sky,  water  and  forest  visible. 

There  are  a  number  of  large  adobe  brick  houses  on 
the  river  front  occupied  as  shops  or  trading  posts,  as 
also  the  always  present  Catholic  church,  fronting  one 
part  of  an  apology  for  a  plaza. 

The  residence  of  Sr.  Don  Juan  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  in  which  I  was  made  to  feel  quite  at  home,  though 
far  away  and  a  stranger  indeed  in  a  strange  land,  was 
picturesque  and  very  comfortable,  during  the  days  I 
was  delayed  there  in  getting  fitted  out  for  the  canoe 
voyage  beyond,  in  which  Don  Juan  rendered  good 
service. 


CHAPTER  X. 

NVESTIGATION  along  the  main  river  and 
the   numerous   tributaries   up   to   Yurri- 
maguas    (the   head   of  steam  navigation 
in   this  direction   and   the  beginning   of 
the  extensive  canoe  traffic)  developed  the 
existence  of  immense  virgin  rubber  ter- 
ritory  on   the   upper  rivers   in  Peru   as 
well  as  in  Bolivia  and  Ecuador,  sufficient 
in  extent  or  area,  if  properly  conserved,  not  only  to 
supply  the  future  requirements  of  the  earth,  but  for 
the  entire  planetary  system  as  well. 

But  it  may  be  said  there  may  also  be  rubber  forests 
in  the  moon?  The  practicable  business  proposition  of 
its  accessibility  with  that  of  the  expensive  handling  and 
tedious  canoe  and  long  distance  river  transportation  to 
a  sea  port,  made  necessary  because  of  the  ruthless 
destruction  of  the  trees  along  the  available  streams, 
added  to  the  greater  difficulty  and  uncertainty  of  the 
labor  for  collecting  and  handling,  renders  this  large 
undeveloped  territory  practically  unavailable  under 
the  existing  conditions. 

The  remedy  seems  to  be  in  the  establishment  of  direct 
American  transportation  to  the  ports  of  Peru,  Bolivia 
and  Ecuador,  and  the  introduction  of  American  steam- 
boats on  the  smaller  affluents. 

The  governments  of  those  countries  stand  ready  to 
encourage  this  by  the  granting  of  exclusive  privileges 
and  generous  concessions,  and  guaranteeing  to  protect 


142  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  trees  from  marauders  and  in  addition  will  also  more 
than  meet  the  United  States  government  half  way  in 
the  matter  of  subsidies. 

Perhaps  the  introduction  of  the  Chinese  or  coolie 
labor  which  is  well  adapted  to  that  region  and  climate 
would  solve  the  labor  question,  the  government  of 
Brazil  being  now  in  negotiation  looking  to  Chinese 
immigration  to  the  Amazon. 

In  this  connection  it  will  be  well  for  any  prospective 
investigator  to  note,  that  the  rubber  obtained  on  the 
uppermost  rivers  of  Peru  and  Ecuador  is  of  the  second 
grade  known  as  ''caucho,"  as  distinct  from  the 
*'hevea"  or  Para  found  principally-  on  the  streams 
below,  though  some  of  the  best  rubber  is  found  quite 
a  ways  up  the  Ucayali. 

There  are  many  peculiarities  about  rubber  aside  from 
its  elastic  and  non-conducting  properties  both  of  water 
and  heat  (electricity),  one  of  which  is  that  it  is  found 
to  be  indigenous  only  within  a  few  degrees  of  the 
Equator  (on  swamp)  and  nearly  all  comes  from  the 
south  side  of  the  line.  There  is  but  little  rubber 
shipped  from  the  northern  tributaries  of  the  Amazon. 
Probably  the  cold  water  of  the  streams  nearest  the 
mountains  has  an  influence  on  the  quality  of  the  pro- 
duct. 

The  narrative  has  reached  the  limit  of  the  principal 
rubber  territory  in  this  direction,  which  had  taken  me 
so  far  into  the  interior  that  I  concluded  it  would  be 
about  as  easy  and  quite  as  comfortable  to  go  on  west 
over  the  A^des  to  the  Pacific  as  to  undertake  the  long 
and  tedious  return  voyage  down  thi'ee  thousand  mile^ 
of  the  moflotoiious  Amazon, 


HEAD  OF  STEAMBOAT  NAVIGATION      143 

Being  advised  also  that  there  were  several  species  of 
gum  or  rubber  in  the  foot  hills  beyond  that  resembled 
gutta  percha,  I  decided  to  **go  west  young  man,'*  risk- 
ing the  dangers  unseen  rather  than  those  that  I  had 
passed  through. 


Yurrimaguas  is  the  trading  centre  or  depot  for  the 
adjacent  country.  Innumerable  canoes  bring  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  forests  by  the  little  streams  to  this  point 
where  it  is  transferred  monthly  to  the  ''Sabia."  It  is 
also  the  port  for  the  extensive  and  beautiful  Moya- 
bamba  and  Tarapota  valleys  which  are  reached  by  over- 
land journeys  over  the  first  range  of  the  Andes  in  four 
to  eight  days. 

The  usual  route  from  Yurrimaguas  to  Moyabamba  is 
by  four  days  canoeing  to  Balsaporte  on  the  small  afflu- 
ent and  thence  three  days  tramp  over  the  mountain 
into  the  valley  of  Moyabamba. 

On  account  of  some  rumors  of  small-pox  among  the 
Indians  along  that  route  I  was  advised  to  take  the 
longer  journey,  up  the  Iluallagua  to  the  head  of  canoe- 
ing at  the  Indian  village  of  Chasuta,  thence  on  foot 
over  the  mountain  to  the  valley  of  Tarapota,  a  two 
days'  tramp,  after  which  mules  were  to  be  had  to 
Moyabamba. 

Though  the  social  opportunities  of  that  part  of 
Eastern  Peru  are  quite  limited,  being  confined  to  the 
families  of  the  few  traders  who  constitute  the  select 
class  and  the  natives  and  civilized  Indians  the  lower 
element,  I  am  glad  to  be  able  to  record  that  in  the 
household  of  Don  Juan,  I  found  quite  as  much  refine- 


144  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

ment  as  we  will  meet  in  the  same  conditions  in  our  own 
land.  Mrs.  or  Donna  Morey,  with  her  sister,  Antoin- 
nette,  busied  themselves  kindly  in  looking  after  com- 
forts during  our  stay  and  prepared  some  delicacies  for 
our  trip  in  the  way  of  provisions  which  we  should  enjoy 
when  beyond  the  reach  of  civilization. 

The  traveller  from  this  point  on  must  expect  to 
make  all  contracts  for  canoes,  mules  or  Indian  guides 
with  a  *'Don,"  or  principal  man  of  a  village,  or  with 
the  sub-Prefect,  if  there  be  one,  if  not  there  will  always 
be  found  a  ''Governador"  of  the  village,  who  is  usually 
the  chief  of  the  tribe  of  the  Indians  inhabiting  the  dis- 
trict you  happen  to  be  in. 

While  slavery  is  not  recognized  in  Peru,  there  exists 
a  system  of  peonage  which  in  effect  is  quite  as  binding 
as  a  condition  of  actual  slavery,  through  the  severe  law 
of  Peru  against  the  debtor,  which  happily  is  seldom 
enforced  to  the  extent  of  imprisonment  for  debt,  yet 
any  one  who  may  owe  ever  so  small  a  sum,  becomes 
practically  a  prisoner,  as  the  debtor  may  be  prevented 
leaving  the  place  where  it  has  been  incurred  without 
the  consent  of  the  creditor. 

This  law  affects  all  classes  and  conditions  alike, 
from  the  trader  who  sells  on  credit  to  the  half  breed 
rubber  gatherer,  who  with  the  expectation  of  being 
repaid  by  supplying  the  products  of  his  labor  in  the 
forests,  finds  it  advantageous  to  keep  his  customer 
always  in  his  debt.  There  are  many  ways  of  securing 
this  end;  the  poor  native  whose  wants  are  few,  is  yet 
always  under  obligations  to  his  dealer.  He  may  not 
change  to  another  dealer  as  his  first  creditor  holds 
the  lien  on  his  labor,  which  may,  however,  be  trans- 


PEONAGE  ON  PERUVIAN  SLAVERY      145 

ferred  from  one  dealer  to  another,  without  the  consent 
of  the  debtor. 

The  same  conditions  exist  on  the  haciendas  or  farms, 
where  the  owners  or  Dons,  supply  their  hands  with 
all  their  wants,  thereby  securing  their  labor  continu- 
ously, the  only  contract  being  the  law  of  the  govern- 
ment which  the  officials  and  military  enforce  in  favor 
of  the  creditor. 

When  one  goes  into  that  country  and  desires  laborers 
to  clear  or  farm  land  which  may  be  had  for  the  asking, 
he  cannot  advertise  for  laborers,  or  expect  volunteers  to 
offer,  as  usually  all  are  peons,  but  he  must  apply  to  the 
Don  of  some  established  hacienda  or  a  trader  and 
negotiate  through  them  and  the  officials  for  the  trans- 
fer of  some  of  their  laborers. 

The  new  employer  may  secure  the  men  he  wants,  by 
paying  their  debts,  which  is  in  effect  a  mere  selling  of 
human  labor. 

It  is  the  same  with  regard  to  securing  canoes  or  mules 
or  guides  for  the  trip  westward.  The  traveller  must 
apply  to  a  Don  who  will  contract  to  furnish  canoes 
and  Indian  paddlers. 

In  arranging  for  my  canoe  voyage  to  Chasuta,  the 
head  of  even  canoe  traffic  on  that  branch  of  the  Ama- 
zon, I  was  fortunate  in  enlisting  Don  Juan's  friendly 
interest  in  completing  the  details. 

The  contract  price  for  canoes,  which  includes  a  quota 
of  from  four  to  six  Indian  paddlers,  is  at  the  rate  of 
of  five  soles  per  day,  or  about  two  and  a  half  dollars 
in  American  silver  or  gold.  The  Indians  furnish 
their  own  provisions  and  cook  that  which  the  traveller 
has  brought  along,  attending  to  his  every  want,  the 


146  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

handing  of  a  drink  of  water,  and  the  putting  in  his 
little  camp  bed  at  night,  and  where  necessary  the 
carrying  of  the  passenger  on  their  backs  from  the  canoe 
to  the  shore. 

It  is  better  to  secure  an  outfit  at  Iquitos  though  it 
may  be  supplied  at  Yurrimaguas.  This  should  con- 
sist of  a  folding  camp  bed  or  net  hammock  with  mos- 
quito netting,  a  rubber  poncho  for  protection  from 
rains,  and  other  blankets,  a  few  cooking  utensils,  for 
a  stew,  fry,  and  making  of  coffee,  and  if  the  canoeist 
is  a  sportman,  a  Winchester  rifle,  shot  gun,  a  supply  of 
well  secured  ammunition  and  fishing  lines  and  nets.  It 
might  be  better  to  have  a  muzzle  loading  gun,  in  case 
fixed  ammunition  becomes  damaged  by  moisture  and 
a  supply  cannot  be  obtained  after  leaving  the  last 
point.  The  fishing  tackle  is  not  of  so  much  conse- 
quence, as  the  Indian  will  catch  all  that  are  needed  with 
the  spear  and  simple  appliances  he  has  learned  to  use. 
It  is  well  to  note  that  beyond  this  point  there  is  no 
bread  or  flour.  Bananas  which  are  plentiful  are  the 
bread  of  the  country  and  fish  the  meat.  The  Win- 
chester and  shot  guns  may  be  useful  in  practicing  on 
alligators  in  the  rivers  or  the  hunting  of  wild  turkeys 
and  other  game  in  the  forest. 

As  a  veteran  somewhat  familiar  with  roughing  it  in 
the  war,  as  a  cavalryman,  and  later  in  our  west,  I  con- 
tented myself  with  the  fewest  possible  articles.  Most 
campers  and  travellers  in  out  of  the  way  places  en- 
cumber themselves  with  all  sorts  of  useless  things  that 
are  generally  thrown  away  after  the  first  day  or  so  out. 
It  is  on  the  mountain  trails  after  the  canoes  have  been 
abandoned^  when  everything  portable  goes  on  the  back 


CANOEING  OUTFIT  147 

of  an  Indian  that  the  **Carga'*  is  reduced  to  the  min- 
imum. 

Recently  a  gentleman  of  an  English  scientific  society, 
desiring  to  make  this  trip  wrote  me  for  information 
on  this  point,  saying  he  desired  to  complete  his  outfit 
before  leaving  London.  My  reply  was  to  the  effect 
that  it  was  not  a  question  as  to  what  he  required,  but 
rather  as  to  what  he  could  do  without,  that  all  neces- 
sary equipment  could  be  obtained  on  the  ground. 

From  Yurrimaguas  the  journey  across  the  continent 
may  be  reduced  to  a  question  of  sixtj^  to  ninety  days, 
at  ten  dollars  a  day.  It  may  be  accomplished  at  less, 
but  I  would  not  undertake  it  without  expecting  to 
spend  this  amount  on  numerous  incidental  delays. 

From  an  experience  I  would  say,  that  any  person 
possessed  of  a  good  constitution  and  a  disposition  to 
adapt  himself  to  circumstances,  willing  to  try  to  cir- 
cumvent, rather  than  to  overide  obstacles,  can  make  the 
journey  in  safety  and  take  away  curios  and  experience 
worth  the  outlay,  with  plenty  of  incident  and  adven- 
ture thrown  in  without  extra  cost. 

Since  Humboldt  quite  a  number  of  scientists  have 
crossed  the  continent  at  this  point  publishing  their 
observations,  among  the  most  interesting  being  that  of 
Prof.  Orton,  of  Cornell  and  Columbia.  This  is  also  a 
favorite  field  for  the  *'naturalista,"  as  the  bug  hunter 
and  butterfly  chaser  are  called. 

Don  Juan  secured  for  me  a  quota  of  the  best  Indian 
canoeists,  the  chief  or  steersman  being  an  old  weather 
beaten  chap  who  took  quite  a  fancy  to  me,  probably 
because  I  had  supplied  him  well  with  ''cachasa,*'  or 
Don  Juan  had  filled  him  up  with  exaggerated  notions 


148  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

of  my  importance  as  ''Consul  Americano."  He  was 
always  around  me,  ready  to  jump  to  do  my  bidding  and 
as  he  was  also  a  good  cook,  I  was  well  supplied. 

I  was  induced  to  take  along  as  an  Indian  interpreter, 
a  half  breed  Ecuadorian  from  the  River  Napo,  whose 
father  had  been  an  Englishman  and  his  mother  an 
Indian.  "When  a  boy  he  learned  something  of  his 
father's  tongue,  but  preserved  all  the  stupidity  and 
treachery  of  the  Indian.  Like  most  of  the  half  breeds 
he  was  conceited  and  overbearing  with  the  Indians, 
his  knowledge  of  pigeon  English  being  considered  quite 
an  accomplishment  that  admitted  him  into  closer  rela- 
tions with  the  white.  He  was  quite  large  and  lubberly 
with  stooped  shoulders,  round  face,  expressionless 
eyes,  a  hook  nose,  high  cheek  bones,  never  speaking 
without  a  grin  that  exposed  great  tusks  for  teeth. 
This  description  is  made  because  from  this  out  he 
appears  as  one  of  the  characters  of  the  narrative,  who 
caused  me  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  some  amusement. 
An  Indian  interpreter  is  an  expensive  encumbrance  and 
not  at  all  necessary  where  one  can  speak  a  little  Spanish. 
One  does  not  need  or  care  to  do  much  talking  on  a 
trip  of  this  kind.  The  Indians  all  seem  to  understand 
ones  wants  by  the  simplest  signs.  They  do  not  speak 
the  Spanish,  each  tribe  having  a  distinct  dialect,  but 
all  Indians  know  their  universal  language  of  the  Inca, 
the  ''Queecha"  which  is  recognized  from  Atlantic  to 
Pacific  and  from  Mexico  to  Chili. 

Amazonian  canoeing  is  perhaps  as  nearly  complete 
as  the  necessities  and  the  experience  of  centuries  can 
make  it.  In  what  is  known  as  ''Fluvial  Amazonas" 
or  bajo  Amazonas,  the  low  lands  below  the  Cordilleras, 


INDIAN  PADDLERS 


149 


150  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

within  an  area  of  a  thousand  miles,  everything  goes 
by  canoe  and  in  the  mountain  region  by  mule.  There 
is  not  a  wagon  wheel  in  all  that  country.  The  natives 
have  never  seen  a  cart  or  vehicle  of  any  description. 
I  imagine  a  man  on  a  bicycle  would  be  dreaded  as  a 
supernatural  being  from  another  world,  while  an  auto- 
mobile would  stampede  the  wild  animals.  All  trans- 
portation goes  by  canoes,  or  the  backs  of  the  Indians  or 
mules  each  carrying  about  the  same  *'carga,"  and 
there  is  not  much  choice  between  the  two.  Most  of  the 
well-to-do  Dons  have  their  fancy  canoes  fitted  up  for 
private  use  as  gondolas,  as  buggies  and  carriages  in 
which  they  are  propelled  rapidly  by  Indians  on  business 
or  social  visits. 

The  canoes,  or  as  they  sound  it ' '  kan-oah, ' '  are  made 
from  the  large  trunks  of  the  red  cedar  tree  (pronounced 
*'see-dra"),  a  very  hard  wood  abounding  in  the  forests, 
almost  as  valuable  as  West  India  mahogany.  In  general 
appearance  they  are  alike  except  that  some  are  longer 
than  others  and  of  course-  some  are  newer,  but  all  are 
constructed  after  the  same  model  of  the  great  grand- 
father Indian,  who  with  his  little  hatchet  cut  the  first 
tree  and  dug  out  his  little  boat. 

The  canoe  selected  for  me  was  forty  feet  in  length 
and  about  three  feet  in  width  at  the  widest  part.  The 
bow  or  ''proa"  for  about  four  feet,  rises  or  slopes  up 
from  the  water's  edge  to  a  point,  which  like  the  stern 
is  solid  in  the  making.  An  Indian  canoe  has  the  one 
advantage  over  our  modern  boats,  they  never  leak,  the 
floor  being  dry  except  from  rains  or  the  drippings  of 
the  paddles  or  poles.  For  the  long  journey  the  Indians 
rigged  my  canoe  with  a  cabin  in  the  after  part  leaving 


PULLMAN  CANOES  151 

space  for  the  steersman  to  stand  to  pole  or  steer  by 
looking  over  the  ''rameda"  as  it  is  called,  which  was 
say  eight  feet  long  and  sufficiently  high  to  admit  of 
sitting  on  the  floor  in  an  upright  position.  It  was  in- 
tended more  as  a  protection  from  the  sun,  during  the 
naps  or  sleeps,  of  the  long  hot  hours  when  the 
Indians  paddled  monotonously  or  rocked  to  sleep  with 
their  poles,  in  shallow  water. 

A  *'rameda"  is  a  picturesque  part  of  a  canoe,  being 
constructed  of  the  bent  withes  which  give  a  round  top 
or  oval  shaped  roof.  It  is  covered  with  thatched  mat- 
ting made  from  the  long  green  leaves  of  the  pretty 
palm,  called  by  the  Indians  "shipace"  or  in  the  Spanish 
•'tagua,"  the  same  from  which  vegetable  ivory  is 
obtained.  These  leaves  are  so  closely  woven  together 
that  they  afford  protection  from  rain  and  also  are  a 
good  non-conductor  from  the  fierce  rays  of  a  tropical 
sun.  Inside  of  the  rameda  a  floor  of  bamboo  slats  were 
laid  on  cross  pieces  making  quite  a  springy  dry  surface 
a  little  above  the  bottom.  Over  this  was  spread  a 
mat  of  camphor  leaves  making  not  only  a  comfortable 
but  a  sweet  smelling  bed,  using  my  blankets  for  a 
pillow. 

In  front  of  the  rameda,  leaving  just  enough  room 
to  stand  upright  and  stretch  my  legs  and  look  around, 
the  Indians  had  placed  my  trunk,  an  encumbrance  I 
would  advise  no  follower  to  bring  to  that  region.  Mine 
was  a  tin  or  covered  box,  such  as  are  necessary  in  some 
cases,  for  preservation  of  the  contents  from  the  insects 
that  would  soon  eat  through  an  ordinary  American 
trunk.  It  fitted  snugly  inside  the  middle  of  the  canoe, 
the  oval  or  round  top  reaching  above  the  sides  making 


152  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

a  comfortable  seat  to  straddle  with  the  edges  of  the 
canoe  for  stirrups. 

The  usual  complement  of  Indians  for  a  canoe  of  forty 
feet  is  four  to  six,  according  to  the  speed  required. 
These  are  always  in  the  front  as  close  to  the  bow  as 
they  can  get  and  when  paddling  sit  on  the  edge  of  each 
side  of  the  canoe  bare  headed  and  bare  legged,  perfectly 
content,  either  in  a  broiling  sun  or  a  torrent  of  rain. 
The  steersman  stands  erect  in  the  stern,  paddling  or 
polling  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  shouting 
his  directions  to  the  chattering  paddlers  in  front  in 
terse  language  that  might  be  interesting  if  it  w^ere 
possible  to  translate  literally. 

The  paddles  are  always  short  and  in  various  shapes, 
but  all  resembling  the  palm  leaf;  the  broader  part  or 
blade  perhaps  eighteen  inches  long  and  six  to  eight 
inches  in  width,  tapering  to  a  point  that  enters  the 
water.  The  handle  is  just  long  enough  to  admit  of  the 
Indian  putting  one  hand  on  top,  thrusting  the  blade 
straight  into  the  water,  which  he  draws  back  with  a 
quick  stroke,  lifting  it  with  a  sudden  twirl  for  another 
thrust.  They  repeat  these  short  quick  strokes  all  day 
long,  from  their  uncomfortable  seats  on  the  edge  of  the 
canoe  without  any  perceptible  alteration  in  the  stroke 
or  a  change  in  the  expression  of  their  stolid  counten- 
ances, except  when  their  sharp  eyes  detect  wild  game 
on  the  edges  of  the  forest  or  the  sands  on  the  shore 
show  some  trail. 

It  is  possible  to  tell  the  location  and  tribe  of  an 
Indian  by  the  shape  of  the  paddles.  There  are  numer- 
ous paddles  that  are  of  value  to  collectors  because  of 
the  story  cut  or  figured  on  them  by  the  owners.     It  has 


A  STUDY  IN  PADDLES  153 

been  a  fad  with  me  to  collect  paddles  from  all  the 
canoeists  of  the  rivers  I  have  visited. 

When  starting  from  Yurrimaguas,  we  were  escorted 
to  the  river  bank  by  the  principal  citizens  of  the  town 
headed  by  the  Prefect,  the  Padre  being  along  to  extend 
his  blessing,  while  all  united  with  hearty  good  will  to 
"speed  the  parting  guest."  As  the  canoe  shot  into  the 
stream  each  lifted  his  hat  in  a  salute  that  I  gratefully 
and  sorrowfully  acknowledged,  from  my  standing  posi- 
tion in  the  canoe.  Just  before  we  disappeared  in  a 
bend  of  the  river  a  last  view  of  the  town  showed  the 
waving  handkerchiefs  of  the  ladies  of  Don  Juan's 
house. 

Canoeing  on  the  upper  Amazon  with  only  Indian 
boatmen  for  companions  is  a  more  delightful  experience 
than  may  be  imagined  or  described.  We  paddled  along 
in  the  quiet  solitudes  on  the  shady  side  of  the  clear 
waters  of  the  Huallagua.  The  canoe,  except  for  the 
paddles,  glided  almost  noiselessly  along  under  the  over- 
hanging tropical  forest  trees,  our  appearance  scarcely 
disturbing  the  numerous  birds,  but  seemingly  to  agitate 
the  monkeys  that  chatter  in  the  trees. 

We  camp  early  in  the  evening  on  the  sandy  shores, 
or  on  a  bar  which  the  Indians  select,  because  it  may 
be  a  good  place  for  fishing.  After  the  preparing  of  a 
supper  and  putting  the  passenger  in  his  little  bed  under 
the  three  forked  sticks  over  and  around  which  the 
mosquito  netting  is  spread,  the  Indians  mysteriously 
disappear,  which  caused  me  some  uneasiness  until  the 
Napo  told  me  they  were  out  fishing.  We  sleep  sweetly 
by  the  sound  of  the  rippling  water  over  the  rocky 
bed,  accompanied  by  the  shriek  of  the  wild  night  birds 


154  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

in  the  forest,  or  the  howl  of  a  jaguar  coming  down  to 
the  water  to  drink  and  finding  his  track  obstructed  by 
a  smouldering  fire;  but  perhaps  the  most  disagreeable 
of  the  noises  is  the  grunt  of  an  alligator  who  has  been 
attracted  to  the  spot  by  the  scent  of  provisions.  My 
slumbers  were  disturbed  more  by  the  horrible  snoring 
of  the  Napo  interpreter  who  persisted  in  sleeping  near 
me,  to  which  I  did  not  object  as  long  as  the  noises  in 
the  forest  caused  me  nervousness. 

The  Amazon  mosquito  is  altogether  more  trouble- 
some than  the  tigers,  one  will  attack  fearlessly  and 
relentlessly  and  make  the  flesh  sore,  while  the  tiger 
runs  away  at  the  sight  of  a  man.  Mosquitoes  on  cer- 
tain parts  of  the  rivers  are  a  terror  even  to  the  Indians. 
In  later  experiences  I  have  known  of  strong  men  crying 
like  children  in  the  night,  because  they  will  disobey 
instructions  and  bring  punishment  on  themselves  by 
uncovering. 

It  is  comforting  to  know  that  after  a  few  days  of 
canoeing  we  get  to  the  altitudes  of  the  upper  Amazon 
where  mosquitoes  are  unknown. 

During  the  days  my  favorite  position  en  route  was 
astride  my  trunk,  rocking  along  as  if  riding  an  immense 
marine  animal  up  the  Amazon.  To  the  consternation 
of  the  steersman  who  stood  in  the  stern,  I  came  near 
falling  off  my  sea-horse,  several  times,  when  he  would 
give  the  canoe  a  sudden  lurch  with  his  pole  or  paddle. 
To  his  pantomimic  gestures  to  get  inside  the  rameda,  I 
laughed,  braced  myself,  and  with  an  umbrella  in  one 
hand  and  a  fan  in  the  other,  told  him  to  drive  on. 

It  may  seem  ludicrous  but  it  is  a  fact  that  I  rode 
during  the  first  days  on  this  marine  mount,  not  only 


A  MARINE  MOUNT  155 

with  an  umbrella  and  a  fan,  but  wearing  a  pair  of  fine 
kid  gloves.  One  was  required  as  protection  from  the 
Sim,  the  fan  being  necessary  to  keep  away  a  great  pest 
of  that  particular  part  of  the  river  in  the  summer 
season,  known  as  **monte  blanca"  or  sand  flies.  These 
move  about,  not  like  mosquitoes,  but  in  clouds  by  day 
in  encountering  which  the  little  pests  would  penetrate 
nostrils,  mouth,  ears  and  eyes.  They  are  little,  but  O, 
so  numerous  and  nasty,  each  leaving  a  sore  as  large  as 
their  body.  As  a  protection  from  these  pests  I  wore 
the  gloves  and  vigorously  waved  my  fan.  Later  I  im- 
provised a  havelock  of  mosquito  netting  which  I  wore 
as  a  curtain  to  the  rim  of  a  straw  hat,  a  negligee  shirt 
with  a  red  cord  and  tassel,  a  Stanley  belt,  worn  in  those 
lands  as  a  protection  from  dysentery  and  bowel 
troubles,  and  a  pair  of  white  trousers  all  the  way  across 
without  change,  but  a  full  supply  of  underwear  and 
change  of  shoes  is  necessary  in  case  of  rain.  I  found  a 
pair  of  English  field  boots  that  lace  over  the  ankle  to 
be  very  useful  as  a  protection  from  the  innumerable 
ticks  or  insects  of  the  forests,  especially  the  pest  known 
as  "moqueen,"  an  invisible  tick  that  swarms  on  every 
blade  of  grass  and  that  gets  on  to  the  ankle  where  it 
deposits  eggs  which  the  warmth  of  the  body  brings  to 
life  under  the  skin,  causing  festering  sores  that  are  very 
troublesome  and  sometimes  dangerous. 

I  have  been  careful  to  mention  all  the  disadvantages 
and  discomforts  that  may  be  expected  on  the  trip, 
which  are  confined  to  the  region  below  the  altitudes  of 
the  Cordilleras.  The  usual  remedy  or  preventive  is  a 
simple  wash  or  bath  of  cachasa,  or  the  rum  of  the 
country. 


156  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

In  general  terms  it  may  be  stated  that  the  healthful- 
ness  of  this  upper  Amazon  is  decidedly  better  than  the 
lower,  there  being  no  yellow  fever  and  it  may  be 
added  that  the  forests  produce  in  the  greatest  abun- 
dance the  remedies  that  may  be  required,  the  proper 
use  of  which  even  the  Indians  understand  and  practice. 

There  started  on  the  same  day  with  us  a  canoe  con- 
taining the  young  girl  consumptive  passenger  on  the 
''Sabia"  whose  brother  was  taking  her  in  this  tedious 
way  to  the  mountains  with  a  view  of  prolonging  her 
life.  On  the  second  day  out  he  passed  us,  being  in 
greater  haste,  but  as  is  the  custom  we  were  courteously 
hailed,  the  two  canoes  coming  alongside  while  the 
young  Spaniard  and  the  Americano  shook  hands,  the 
sick  girl  lying  in  her  rameda  scarcely  able  to  lift  her 
head,  in  a  cheerful  way  whispered  ''salute  senor"  as  we 
took  a  sip  of  wine,  offered  by  the  brother  to  her  better 
health,  it  being  the  universal  ''custombre"  as  they  say, 
to  pass  this  loving  cup  to  strangers. 

That  evening  as  our  canoeists  were  paddling  along 
after  dark,  in  order  to  reach  a  certain  bar  on  which  to 
camp  where  the  fishing  would  be  good,  our  Spanish 
friend  being  ahead,  had  located  his  camp  in  a  hut  on  a 
little  bluff  on  the  edge  of  the  forest  hailed  me  cour- 
teously urging  me  to  camp  with  him.  I  accepted  the 
invitation,  ordering  the  Indians  much  against  their  will, 
to  stop,  and  I  would  observe  in  passing  that  it  is 
always  best  to  allow  the  Indians  to  select  the  camps.  I 
slept  in  the  house  near  the  sick  girl  and  by  her  labored 
breathing  and  coughing,  I  feared  she  would  die  before 
morning. 

The  luggage  and  provisions  amongst  which  were  some 


ALLIGATORS  157 

live  chickens,  being  left  in  the  canoe,  the  steersman, 
Lucus,  was  directed  to  sleep  there  to  protect  them  from 
the  other  canoeists,  who  were  moored  alongside.  In 
the  morning,  Lucas  told  in  his  serious  way  that  was 
really  comical,  how  a  big  alligator  smelling  the  pro- 
visions or  attracted  by  the  fluttering  of  the  live  chick- 
ens, had  tried  to  get  into  the  canoe,  but  he  remarked 
in  his  broken  English  and  Spanish  with  gestures 
to  fit,  "there  was  not  big  nuf  place  for  jackree  and  me 
hit  im  bad  with  paddle.''  Later  in  the  night  his  rest 
was  further  disturbed  by  an  owl  that  was  determined 
to  get  at  the  chickens,  so  he  sat  up  and  fought  **zan- 
gudas"  as  the  mosquito  is  called,  until  almost  daybreak 
when  he  made  our  early  coffee  a  little  earlier  than 
usual,  serving  first  the  sick  girl  as  tenderly  as  a  woman. 
Indian  canoeists  are  of  a  child-like  nature  performing 
their  tedious  and  laborious  tasks  all  day  in  the  hot  sun 
in  a  cheerful  and  as  happy  a  way  as  boys  on  a  picnic, 
and  instead  of  seeking  rest  they  will  go  into  the  water 
waist  deep  to  catch  fish,  which  with  bananas  seem  to 
be  their  only  food.  It  was  a  pleasure  to  me  to  divide 
with  them  from  my  abundant  stores,  which  is  one  of 
the  kindnesses  an  Indian  appreciates  more  than  money. 
An  Indian  will  excel  the  whites  in  many  things  peculiar 
to  forest  life  but  in  nothing  more  than  the  skill  of  kind- 
ling a  fire  quickly,  even  out  of  wet  wood  on  a  wet  bar 
or  a  rocky  shore.  As  soon  as  the  canoe  puts  its  nose 
on  the  banks  the  Indians  scatter  like  a  lot  of  pheasants 
but  soon  return,  each  with  a  bundle  of  sticks.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  give  any  directions,  they  perform  this 
task  as  a  matter  of  course  and  they  have  a  small  fire 
started  while  the  white  man  is  standing  around  wonder- 


158  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

ing  what  is  to  be  done,  when  it  rains  and  the  wood  is 
all  wet.  An  Indian  always  makes  a  little  fire  that  he 
can  almost  sit  over,  as  they  say,  ''White  man  dam  fool, 
make  heap  big  fire  and  can 't  get  near  him. ' ' 

They  also  kill  and  prepare  and  cook  a  chicken 
quickly,  make  a  good  cup  of  coffee  or  cacao  and  serve 
it  to  the  ''Padrone"  who  sits  gloomily  on  a  log, 
probably  cussing  the  natives  because  there  is  not  a 
menu  card  and  napkins.  They  also  prepare  the  camp 
beds,  spreading  the  mosquito  netting  over  the  three- 
forked  sticks  and  while  the  traveller  rests  the  Indians 
are  fishing,  lying  down  on  a  few  leaves  under  a  blanket 
to  sleep,  but  jump  up  with  alacrity  when  the  wild 
turkeys  call  them  at  five  o^clock,  when  they  make 
early  coffee,  pack  up  and  are  ready  to  start  at  daylight 
as  fresh  on  the  last  day  as  on  the  first.  Just  how 
Indians  thrive  so  well,  performing  such  laborious  tasks 
daily  on  a  diet  of  plantain  and  fish  for  less  than  fifty 
cents  a  day  each  is  one  of  the  curious  things  of  the 
Land  of  To-Morrow,  but  they  accomplish  their  tasks 
cheerfully  and  with  more  alacrity  than  the  Spaniard 
or  half  breed.  The  reader  who  may  follow  the  narra- 
tive will  find  that  this  has  been  the  experience  all 
the  way  across,'  there  being  less  to  contend  with  in  the 
far  interiors  than  on  the  edge  of  civilization. 

During  the  days  of  the  canoeing  up  stream  my  favor- 
ite position  was  astride  of  my  trunk  amidships,  where 
under  the  protection  of  an  umbrella,  gloves  and  have- 
lock,  I  rode  the  Amazon  monster  like  a  sea-horse.  A 
canoe  is  like  a  log  in  more  ways  than  one,  and  it  is 
quite  easy  to  practice  "rolling  off  a  log"  that  is  float- 
ing in  the  water.     To  maintain  the  centre  of  gravity,  I 


WILD  TURKEYS  AND  TURTLE  EGGS       159 

parted  my  hair  in  the  middle  which  with  the  kid 
gloves,  silk  umbrella  and  eye  glasses,  gave  the  **  Pa- 
drone'* quite  a  ludicrous  appearance.  The  paddlers 
glanced  back  at  me  curiously  grunting  their  comments 
when  a  sudden  lurch  would  compel  the  imitation  of 
some  tight  rope  balancing  act  with  the  umbrella  in 
air  as  a  balance. 

It  was  my  habit  where  the  shore  was  hard  or  sandy 
to  jump  out  of  the  canoe,  when  close  to  the  shore,  to 
the  consternation  of  the  Indians  who  were  suddenly 
shaken  up  by  the  spring  that  rocked  the  canoe  vio- 
lently, looking  at  my  running  ahead  along  the  shore  for 
exercise  as  if  I  were  attempting  to  escape  from  them. 
Sometimes  one  of  the  paddlers,  discovering  the  tracks 
indicating  a  deposit  of  turtle  eggs,  would  also  take  to 
the  bank  suddenly  running  along  with  his  paddle  as  if 
after  an  imaginary  enemy,  at  which  exhibition  of 
agility  it  was  my  turn  to  be  surprised,  until  he  would 
as  suddenly  stop  in  his  track  and  begin  to  dig  with  his 
paddle  and  paw  with  his  hands,  like  a  dog  that  had 
run  a  rat  into  a  hole,  and  unearth  a  peck  or  so  of 
turtle  eggs.  The  Amazon  turtle  is  one  of  the  numerous 
big  things  that  inhabit  the  waters,  but  like  the  Amazon 
porpoise  or  hog  fish  and  alligator,  is  not  good  food. 
The  turtle  eggs,  however,  are  used  by  the  natives. 
They  are  about  the  size  of  duck  eggs  having  a  tough 
skin  instead  of  a  shell,  which  must  be  carefully  removed 
before  eating.  They  are  quite  tough,  but  we  managed 
to  digest  them  by  the  free  use  of  salt.  The  Indian  can 
detect  the  ''signs"  in  the  sand  as  easily  as  the  trails 
in  the  forest.  After  a  first  experience  in  hunting  for 
turtle  eggs,  it  was  my  habit  to  keep  a  lookout  too  and 


160  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

on  discovering  a  sign,  leap  ashore  and  have  a  lively  foot 
race  up  the  bank  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  old 
steersman  who  seemed  to  pick  the  padrone  as  the 
favorite. 

I  was  fond  of  visiting  all  the  huts  *in  the  several 
villages  of  the  Indians  located  on  the  banks  of  the 
rivers,  usually  contiguous  to  a  banana  plantation,  from 
whom  we  could  get  a  supply  of  hen  eggs  or  chickens, 
in  exchange  for  some  trifling  novelty.  The  appearance 
of  a  white  man  in  the  dress  of  our  choice  seemed  to 
afford  the  younger  Indians  considerable  amusement, 
the  older  being  anxious  to  barter  for  our  soiled  linen 
and  colored  handkerchiefs  and  especially  neckties  and 
the  more  practical  things  like  ammunition,  knives, 
scissors,  and  five  cent  jewelry,  small  mirrors  and  gaudy 
prints. 

If  I  had  been  coming  home  instead  of  going  the  other 
direction,  I  might  have  bought  a  canoe  load  of  the  rare 
curios  offered  me  in  exchange  for  novelties.  There 
were  bows  and  arrows  of  various  sizes  and  makes 
intended  for  small  boy  Indians  and  the  strong  brave, 
but  the  most  interesting  was  the  blow  gun,  a  long  tube 
of  bamboo,  through  which  they  can  send  a  dart,  made 
from  a  sharp  brier  trimmed  with  small  pin  feathers  or 
a  species  of  wild  cotton  which  give  it  force  and  direc- 
tion. These  are  accompanied  with  a  *' poison  bag" 
into  which  they  can  dip  the  points  of  a  dart  just  before 
or  as  they  may  desire  to  use  it.  This  poison  is  so 
deadly  in  its  effects  that  it  is  said  it  will  kill  an  ox  in 
half  an  hour  and  is  always  fatal  where  the  dart  pene- 
trates a  living  thing.  I  saw  one  used  on  a  venturesome 
monkey  that  was  about  to  spring  from  one  limb  to 


INDIAN  CURIOS  161 

another,  but  dropped  dead  almost  in  the  position  he 
was  struck  by  the  quiet  but  effective  little  missile.  One 
naturally  wonders  that  assassins  or  scientific  murderers 
do  not  avail  of  these  sudden  and  quiet  methods  of  put- 
ting objectionable  people  out  of  the  way,  without  in- 
curring the  inconvenient  noise  and  ugly  wounds  of  a 
gunshot.  There  are  also  numerous  articles  for  prepar- 
ing food,  with  innumerable  stone  and  other  implements 
of  the  men,  while  the  women  have  in  use  curious  appli- 
ances for  spinning  and  weaving  the  wool  of  the  wild 
goat  out  of  which  they  make  clothing  and  blankets  of 
appropriate  design,  and  colored  from  dyewoods  of  the 
forests. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

ANOEING  just  before  the  dawn  of  an 
Equatorial  sunrise  on  the  upper  Amazon 
is  an  exhiliarating  delight  only  to  be 
realized  in  that  latitude.  All  the  days 
are  alike,  warm,  and  at  times  rather 
too  oppressive  for  comfort  in  this 
respect  and  from  the  luxuriant  foliage 
may  be  compared  to  an  imaginary  existence  in  a 
glass  conservatory  in  our  climate,  that  is  warmed  and 
watered  artificially  to  create  the  same  growth  on  a 
diminutive  scale  that  is  enjoyed  by  all  out  of  doors  in 
the  Land  of  To-Morrow,  where  the  only  covering  for 
an  area  of  thousands  of  miles  is  the  clear  blue  sky, 
warmed  by  the  sun,  which  like  a  fierce  electrical  ball, 
seems  to  be  quite  too  close  to  that  part  of  the  earth  at 
midday,  and  but  for  the  frequent  and  grateful  rains, 
would  burn  the  surface  into  a  desert  land.  Like  the 
conservatories  when  the  fires  are  allowed  to  get  low,  it 
is  rather  humid  and  cool  at  night. 

When  the  sun  dips  behind  the  Andes,  it  soon  becomes 
dark  in  Amazonia,  there  being  no  twilights.  Even  if 
there  were  opportunities  the  tired  canoeist  would  not 
feel  disposed  towards  sky-larking  ''in  the  gloaming"  of 
an  Equatorial  forest  with  tigers,  boas  and  all  sorts  of 
queer  life.  He  allows  his  Indian  guides  to  "put  him 
in  his  little  bed,"  where  he  may  sleep  sweetly  under  the 
canopy  of  overhanging  palm  trees,  the  night  birds 
shrieking  their   alarm,   w^hile   the   wild   animals   that 

162 


CAMPING  ON  THE  BANKS  163 

come  down  to  drink,  scenting  the  camp,  run  off  grunt- 
ing their  indignation  at  the  intrusion  into  their  quiet 
solitude. 

It  is  in  the  early  morning  after  such  refreshing  sleep, 
when  tired  nature  is  completely  restored,  that  the 
explorer  may  properly  enjoy  a  canoe  ride  on  the 
upper  Amazon,  gliding  along  by  the  dawn's  early  light, 
so  smoothly  and  noiselessly  that  the  dip  of  the  Indian 
paddlers  or  the  clatter  of  the  steersman's  pole  as  he 
changes  from  side  to  side,  scarcely  disturbs  the  hun- 
dreds of  birds  of  rich  plumage  on  the  edge  of  the 
water  catching  the  early  fish,  or  drowns  the  songs  and 
screeches  of  parrots  that  come  from  the  branches  of 
trees  hanging  over  the  banks. 

At  this  early  hour  all  animal  life  is  awake,  and  the 
senses  keener  than  at  other  times,  none  more  so  than 
that  of  sight,  even  in  the  dim  daylight. 

The  monotonous  foliage  of  the  lower  rivers  is  not 
met  with  to  such  an  extent  on  the  upper  rivers  where 
the  growth  is  more  variegated,  but  equally  as  dense. 
The  muddy  banks  about  Yurrimaguas  change  to  un- 
dulating green  hills  with  more  agreeable  gravelly  and 
sometimes  rocky  shores,  the  muddy  water  gradually 
becoming  clearer,  because  of  the  numerous  clear 
streams  from  the  mountains  that  enter  the  main  river. 

The  air  is  clear  and  at  times  so  rarified  as  to  create 
optical  illusions.  We  were  for  five  days  within  sight 
of  the  first  range  or  foot  hills  of  the  Andes,  and 
though  a  canoe  paddles  along  up  stream  from  daylight 
until  almost  twilight  or  sundown,  making  very  good 
time,  the  distance  covered  depending  upon  the  cur- 
rents, apparently  this  blue  mountain  was  as  far  off 


164  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

each  day  as  it'  had  been  the  preceding.  The  rivers 
are  very  crooked,  some  days  we  paddled  along  for 
hours  with  the  mountain  directly  behind  us,  as  if  we 
were  going  in  a  direction  directly  opposite,  though 
we  realized  that  our  objective  point  was  the  gap 
pointed  out  by  the  steersman,  as  the  Pongo  or  gateway 
in  the  mountain,  through  which  we  must  go  to  reach 
our  destination. 

The  custom  of  the  Indian  canoeist  is  to  make  a  start 
as  soon  after  daybreak  begins  to  appear  as  possible, 
going  an  hour  or  two  before  a  stop  is  made  for  coffee. 
Several  times,  the  currents  or  other  difficulties  delayed 
our  reaching  a  good  place  for  coffee  until  so  late  in  the 
morning  that  my  stomach  rebelled  against  their  sub- 
stitute of  a  calabash  of  the  aguadiente  cocktail,  and 
thereafter  that  I  might  more  fully  enjoy  the  early  ride 
under  the  stimulating  influence  of  a  cup  of  coffee,  I 
ordered  it  prepared  before  we  should  leave  the  night's 
camp. 

It  is  difficult  to  make  an  Indian  understand  that  it 
is  possible  to  change  any  of  their  customs.  My  mis- 
sionary efforts  to  convince  them  that  it  was  easier, 
saving  both  time  and  labor,  to  collect  from  the  pre- 
vious evening's  camp  fire,  sufficient  dry  wood  to  start 
another  in  the  same  place,  was  not  appreciated.  They 
would  rather  go  off  leaving  smouldering  coals  to  some 
other  point  miles  distant,  and  start  a  fire  of  damp 
wood,  simply  because  it  was  their  custom.  They  cheer- 
fully obey  orders  of  one  whom  they  think  a  superior, 
but  looked  askance  at  me  in  this  matter  and  humored 
me  because  I  did  not  know  any  better.  The  ''Ameri- 
cano" was  a  continual  source  of  surprise  to  old  Lucas, 


INDIAN  CUSTOMS  165 

the  steersman  and  guide.  One  morning  while  blowing 
a  previous  night's  coals  into  life  as  I  had  directed, 
he  watched  me  curiously  as  I  was  pacing  up  and  down 
the  bank,  muttering  between  every  breath  in  his  own 
tongue,  his  terse  comments  which  my  lazy  Napo  inter- 
preter from  his  blankets  heard  and  translated  to  me 
later. 

** That's  the  funniest  white  man  ever  heard."  Blow, 
blow,  blow,  punching  up  the  embers  with  his  fingers. 

**Gits  up  in  the  night  to  drink  coffee"  (referring  to 
my  early  rising).  Here  he  burnt  his  fingers  while 
watching  me,  and  swearing  in  Indian  tongue  with  his 
fingers  in  his  mouth,  continued:  **And  he  eats  eggs 
before  the  turkeys  are  awake." 

Indians  tell  the  hour  of  the  night  by  the  songs  of 
certain  birds.  The  wild  turkeys,  which  are  very  numer- 
ous in  that  land,  with  unerring  accuracy  announce  the 
approach  of  daylight  at  half  past  five  as  reliably  as  a 
chronometre.  Probably  the  fact  that  the  sun  rises  and 
sets  at  precisely  the  same  hour  every  day  of  the  year 
under  the  Equator  enables  the  natives  to  have  certain 
signs  and  the  birds  regular  habits. 

The  guides  act  as  personal  servants,  waiting  upon  the 
traveller  in  a  cheerful  manner.  At  the  slightest  inti- 
mation they  will  take  a  cup  and  dart  through  the 
bushes  to  find  a  drink  of  clear  water  in  places  where 
the  stranger  would  not  be  able  to  find  it.  While  I  was 
eating  they  would  disappear  or  busy  themselves  with 
their  own  food.  I  could  never  induce  them  to  take 
coffee  with  me,  but  after  finishing  they  would  thank- 
fully take  anything  offered.  These  trifling  matter  are 
of  importance  to  travellers  through  that  region. 


166  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

• 
I  was  tempted  to  teach  Lucas  an  imitation  of  the 
*'pusse  cafe,"  which  I  had  picked  up  in  Paris  cafes, 
where  it  is  the  custom  to  put  a  bit  of  cognac  in 
coffee.  In  this  case  substituting  cachasa,  or  native 
rum,  for  French  brandy  which  is  at  least  purer  and 
inexpensive,  Lucas  thought  the  mixture  of  hot  black 
coffee,  sugar  and  cachasa  or  ''cassy"  as  they  call  it, 
was  the  best  thing  he  ever  tasted.  I  felt  guilty  of 
having  taught  my  Indians  a  bad  habit,  that  might  in 
the  end  be  as  disastrous  as  that  of  the  dutiful  nephews 
who  taught  their  uncle  to  make  mint  julips,  which  was 
the  cause  of  his  death,  the  grave  being  kept  green  by 
spontaneous  growth  of  mint,  only  in  this  case  the 
warm  climate  and  soil  would  germinate  cane  and 
coffee  whenever  an  Indian  was  planted. 

The  custom  is  to  stop  in  the  midday  for  a  few  hours 
to  rest  and  prepare  breakfast,  which  even  with  the 
savages  is  a  noon  meal.  We  usually  halted  under  the 
shade  of  overhanging  trees  from  ten  till  two,  during 
the  hot  hours.  While  I  enjoyed  a  siesta  on  the  grass 
or  a  blanket  spread  on  the  ground,  the  entire  crowd 
of  Indians,  undressed  and  plunged  into  the  water,  their 
copper  colored  skins  and  perfectly  formed  bodies  ex- 
posed to  a  sun  that  would  have  blistered  the  cheek 
of  an  American  newspaper  man  and  caused  a  model 
artist  blushes. 

I  carried  but  three  cooking  utensils,  a  small  porce- 
lain lined  pan  for  frying  eggs  and  fish,  a  two  gallon 
pot  for  boiling  rice  and  stewing  chickens  or  game,  and 
a  small  tin  coffee  pot,  and  as  a  special  favor  to  myself, 
a  silver  fork.  On  starting  my  larder  consisted  of  a 
bag  of  biscuit,  the  size  of  a  roll,  calculating  one  for 


BANANAS  FOR  BREAD 


167 


each  meal  for  self  and  Napo,  plenty  of  coffee  and 
sugar,  and  the  only  tinned  or  canned  article  that  is 
desirable,  a  dozen  or  so  of  sardines,  a  bag  of  salt  and  a 
bottle  of  lard.  The  oil  from  the  sardines  is  good  dress- 
ing for  boiled  plantains  or  bananas.  I  had  also  some 
claret  for  my  own  use  which  may  be  considered  as 
much  of  a  necessity  as  anything  else,  especially  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  river  where  the  drinking  water  may 
be  unpalatable  and  dangerous.    After  the  mountain 


A  Banana  Plantation  on  the  Upper  Amazon 


streams  are  reached  the  water  is  of  the  best  quality. 
The  Indians  will  get  along  on  anything.  As  pre- 
viously stated  their  principal  diet  is  fish  and  plantains 
or  the  red  skin  bananas,  which  are  used  for  cooking 
instead  of  the  yellow  skin  banana,  on  which  they 
thrive  wonderfully.  There  is  no  cost  for  these  articles 
of  diet  to  which  the  native  may  help  himself  in  the 
forest  or  stream. 


168  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  plantain  is  ''cultivated''  in  about  the  same  way 
that  a  neglected  or  abandoned  orchard  may  be  said 
to  be  cultivated.  A  rough  clearing  is  made  anywhere, 
each  about  two  acres  in  extent,  over  which  the  plants 
are  roughly  ''set  out"  from  the  stock  found  all  over 
the  land.  They  grow  rapidly  without  any  care  or 
attention  whatever,  bearing  abundantly  and  repro- 
ducing themselves.  These  banana  plantations  or 
"chacras"  as  they  are  called,  are  scattered  along  the 
banks  of  all  the  rivers,  frequently  far  from  the  habita- 
tions of  Indian  or  native.  The  rule  or  law  of  the 
river  is,  that  anybody  may  help  themselves,  there  being 
always  sufficient  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  Indian 
canoeist  who  go  up  and  down,  knowing  where  to  find 
the  supply.  The  monkeys  and  tigers  and  numerous 
wild  beasts  also  know  where  to  come  for  their  daily 
bread,  which  fact  enables  the  Indian  to  also  add  some 
meat  to  his  supplies,  by  trapping  or  killing  the  game 
that  is  attracted  to  the  feeding  grounds. 

At  long  intervals  places  are  reached  where  the  chacra 
is  protected  by  a  few  Indian  families  living  in  huts  of 
bamboo,  where  chickens,  ducks,  pigs  or  eggs  may  be 
had.  We  stopped  at  many  such  huts  to  be  innocently 
told  that  they  had  no  chickens  "because  the  tigers 
had  come  for  them  first:" 

Of  bread  made  from  wheat  flour,  there  is  none  to  be 
had  in  all  the  region  beyond  steam  navigation,  which 
brings  the  American  flour  to  the  trading  centres  at 
Iquitos  and  Yurrimagas. 

The  bread  of  the  country  is  the  plantain  and  the 
yucca,  which  is  a  root  from  the  pulp  or  inside  of 
which  tapioca  and  mandioca  meals  are  made.    It  is 


EATING  MONKEY  FLESH  169 

more  generally  used  as  we  use  the  potato,  which  it 
resembles  somewhat  in  mellowness  and  sweet  flavor 
that  the  plantain  does  not  possess.  A  flour  or  paste  is 
made  from  the  yucca  root  from  which  bread  or  cakes 
are  baked  in  the  ashes,  which  for  solidity  resembles 
a  German  pretzel  of  mature  age. 

Some  of  the  Indians  may  be  called  ''dirt  eaters,'* 
as  they  use  certain  kinds  of  earth  which  they  mix  with 
fish  and  fry  in  the  fat  of  the  alligator,  making  a  johnny 
cake  which  I  imagine  to  be  as  unpalatable  as  a. dog 
biscuit. 

I  have  eaten  of  monkey  flesh,  merely  tasted  it  once 
and  perhaps  for  the  horrible  smell  I  might  have  en- 
joyed more  of  it,  being  hungry,  but  it  partook  too 
much  of  cannibalism.  The  flesh  of  the  monkey  is 
quite  dark,  indeed  the  blood  of  the  one  I  saw  before 
it  was  peeled  and  cooked  looked  so  black  that  I  thought 
it  had  been  too  long  killed,  but  being  assured  it  was 
quite  fresh,  I  allowed  myself  to  be  helped  to  a  part  of 
the  forearm. 

There  are  many  kinds  of  monkeys,  the  only  kind 
being  desirable  as  food  has  long  forearms  which  is  the 
only  part  that  even  an  Indian  will  gnaw.  This  is  an 
actual  experience  and  I  have  talked  with  others  who 
substantiate  the  statement  that  monkeys  are  regularly 
used  for  food  in  certain  sections,  and  parrots  are  com- 
mon game  birds. 

Of  course,  one  would  not  select  ''monkey  legs''  from 
a  menu  card  from  preference,  most  persons  preferring 
animal  life  not  so  closely  related  to  the  human  form 
divine,  but  the  difficulties  are  great,  there  being  no 
butcher  shops  or  corner  grocers  in  Amazonian  forests. 


170  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  fastidious  traveller  in  ''The  Land  of  To-Morrow'* 
who  may  be  a  chronic  growler  at  home,  may  be  glad 
to  try  a  bit  of  monkey  with  a  banana  fritter  fried  in 
alligator  fat  to  brace  himself  for  a  day's  travel  in 
search  of  game. 

There  are  cannibal  Indians  on  some  of  the  upper 
tributaries  of  the  Amazon.  On  the  Ucayali  is  a  tribe 
known  as  the  Cashibos  or  Cassibos,  who  inherit  the 
bad  taste  of  their  ancestors  of  eating  their  enemies. 
Official  reports  of  the  Peruvian  government  just  pre- 
vious to  my  visit,  will  show  a  recent  instance  of  the 
practice.  A  young  Frenchman  who  had  become  an 
officer  in  their  army,  being  one  of  an  expedition  sent 
out  on  the  Ucayali,  was  with  a  companion  inveigled 
from  their  boat  into  the  forest  and  murdered.  The 
pursuit  developed  the  fact  that  their  bodies  had  been 
mutilated  and  the  captive  Cassibos  admitted  that  parts 
of  the  bodies  had  been  eaten  by  them. 

I  interviewed  a  descendent  of  a  Cassibo  who  admitted 
to  me  that  he  had  partaken  of  the  flesh  of  enemies  while 
he  was  with  his  tribe,  but  had  since  reformed  and  cul- 
tivated a  taste  for  young  monkeys  and  alligators. 
Closer  questioning .  revealed  the  information  that  the 
choice  morsel  of  a  white  man  was  his  hands,  probably 
on  the  hypothesis  that  pigs  feet  are  the  dainty  part  of 
swine.  This  is  one  phase  of  the  newspaper  inter- 
viewer's enterprise  that  has  the  merit  of  original 
research,  but  one  can  scarcely  hold  the  pen  steady  while 
writing  an  interview  with  a  real  cannibal  who  pre- 
fers picking  finger  bones  to  beefsteak. 

My  Indians  were  content  with  picking  fish  bones. 
They  carry  along  a  large  earthen  pot  which  they  fill 


CANNIBAL  INDIANS  171 

with  peeled  bananas  or  plantains,  placing  on  the  top 
a  half  peck  of  uncleaned  fish.  When  the  plantains  are 
boiled  soft,  and  the  fish  warmed  up,  all  squat  in  a 
circle  about  the  fire,  keeping  the  pot  boiling  by  punch- 
ing up  the  embers  with  their  fingers.  In  the  darkness 
of  a  tropical  night  this  scene  under  a  palm  tree  over- 
hanging the  dark  water,  the  savage  features  of  the 
Indians  lighted  by  the  fire  and  the  effect  heightened 
by  the  smoke  becomes  weirdly  dramatic,  reminding 
one  of  the  witch  scene  in  Macbeth,  and  is  scarcely 
conducive  to  sweet  repose  when  one  realizes  that 
under  provocation  or  in  other  conditions  the  Indians 
might  conclude  to  make  a  meal  of  their  Padrone  and 
in  that  case  the  last  resting  place  would  not  even 
be  marked. 

A  plantain  roasted  is  like  a  last  year's  sweet  potato 
that  has  lost  its  substance  through  a  drying  process, 
and  a  banana  is  good  enough  for  dessert  at  home,  but 
sitting  down  to  a  bushel  of  them  boiled  causes  the 
stomach  to  rebel.  I  was  frequently  reminded  of  a 
comic  character  in  the  play,  whose  sole  business  was  to 
come  on  with  both  hands  pressed  to  his  stomach,  mak- 
ing wry  faces  while  repeating  in  a  voice  half  choked 
with  an  imaginary  banana,  "Oh,  oh,  I'll  never  eat 
another  banana,"  after  a  gulp  continuing  in  a  drawl- 
ing tone,  * '  never  as-long-as-I-live,  n-e-v-e-r. ' ' 

I  never  partake  of  ** monkey  food"  when  in  civi- 
lized countries.  Through  mistaken  kindness  to  my 
Indians  I  was  early  initiated  into  the  use  of  bananas 
and  monkeys  as  food,  by  being  too  liberal,  forgetting 
that  each  day  I  was  going  further  from  my  base  of 
supplies  and  should  have  economized.     I  think,  too, 


172  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  big  Indian  interpreter  who  had  been  entrusted 
with  the  care  of  the  provisions,  appropriated  more 
than  his  share.  He  had  a  tremendous  appetite  and  was 
always  nibbling  at  the  bread  that  he  carried  in  his 
pockets.  He  blamed  the  Indians  for  stealing,  but  I 
think  this  was  provoked  by  jealousy  of  Lucas  and  a 
cunning  desire  to  protect  himself. 

It  may  be  recorded  to  the  credit  of  these  Peruvian 
Indians  that  they  do  not  steal  from  the  traveller,  in 
their  care,  whatever  they  may  do  amongst  themselves. 
Valuable  cargoes  are  entrusted  to  them  alone  by  the 
traders,  who  say  they  have  never  lost  anything  en- 
trusted to  the  pure  blood  Indian.  It  is  admitted  that 
those  who  have  the  white  blood  in  their  veins  are  the 
black  sheep  of  their  flocks.  It  is  conceded  also  that 
there  is  relatively  more  virtue  among  the  wild  women 
of  the  forest  than  exists  among  the  half  breeds  of 

civilized  life. 

#        *        * 

In  four  days  paddling  up  the  stream  we  reached  the 
beginning  of  the  ''rocks"  as  they  call  the  rapids,  from 
whence  the  Indians  propelled  our  canoe  along  the 
eddies  by  the  use  of  long  poles,  which  they  used  stand- 
ing, handling  them  as  dextriously  as  they  did  paddles. 

A  half  dozen  Indians  in  their  semi-dress,  standing 
in  the  front  of  a  canoe,  gracefully  poling  in  exact 
cadence  on  both  sides,  the  tall  steersman  in  the  stern, 
looking  sharply  ahead,  forms  a  very  picturesque  scene, 
reminding  one  of  the  old  fashioned  pictures  of  the 
Sunday  school  books  illustrating  a  fleet  of  cannibal 
savages  attacking  a  visiting  or  stranded  ship. 

The  water  becomes  clearer  and  though  the  current  is 


TIGERS'  LAIRS  173 

greater  we  get  along  more  rapidly  than  when  paddling, 
as  the  long  poles  grinding  on  the  gravelly  bottom 
seems  to  give  us  greater  propelling  power  than  paddles. 

In  the  early  evening  the  Indians  being  tired  I  con- 
sented to  an  early  stop  at  a  point  indicated  by  them 
as  desirable  for  fishing.  In  looking  for  turtle  eggs 
on  the  bar,  we  found  tracks  that  showed  it  was  the  path 
of  the  large  wild  beasts  who  came  down  from  the 
forest  at  night  to  drink.  It  was  not  exactly  comfort- 
ing to  place  one's  bed  across  tigers'  tracks,  but  as 
navigation  was  considered  more  dangeroils  at  night 
than  tigers'  lairs,  I  submitted  and  slept  quite  peace- 
fully. I  heard  tigers  often  but  want  to  record  that  I 
never  saw  any.  I  did  not  want  to  see  any.  I  was 
not  hunting  tigers  or  other  big  game.  If  desired  we 
might  have  seen  them,  though  the  Indians  say  they  are 
difficult  to  find  as  they  run  off  at  the  approach  of  man. 

Desiring  to  reach  a  relay  point  on  another  evening, 
where  we  were  to  get  another  canoe,  the  Indians 
poled  hard  against  the  current  all  day.  I  did  not 
understand  till  afterwards  that  I  had  misplaced  my 
sympathy,  learning  when  ashore  that  the  incentive  was 
not  so  much  a  desire  to  please  me  as  to  reach  a  point 
where  there  was  a  distillery  of  the  native  rum  of  the 
country.  Our  supply  had  been  exhausted  for  two 
days  and  they  made  me  believe  'they  were  getting 
weak.  They  can  get  on  without  bananas  or  fish,  but 
a  supply  of  "cassy"  or  aguadiente  is  a  prime  necessity. 

We  stopped  close  to  a  bunch  of  thatch  covered  huts 
which  resembled  the  usual  Indian  village  near  which 
would  be  found  the  casa  of  the  Spanish  or  half  breed 
Don    as   the    manager    and   boss.      Strolling   up    the 


174  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

gravelly  beach,  sunburnt,  tired  and  partly  ragged, 
expecting  to  find  only  the  usual  surroundings  of  an 
Amazon  gin  mill,  I  was  quite  taken  aback  by  the 
appearance  of  a  couple  of  young  senoritas,  neatly 
attired  in  white  gowns,  lounging  in  hammocks  on  the 
porch  of  a  large  straggling  casa  facing  the  water,  the 
cabins  in  the  rear  forming  quite  a  little  settlement. 
Though  it  was  a  surprise  to  me,  we  had  evidently  been 
expected,  there  being  some  methods  of  communica- 
tion amongst  Indians  in  the  forest,  that  is  quite  as 
efi^ective  as  wireless  telegraphy,  the  approach  of  a 
stranger  being  always  known,  no  matter  how  carefully 
it  may  be  guarded. 

Approaching  the  house,  tipping  a  fifty  cent  straw  hat, 
an  exposing  uncombed  hair,  with  an  embarrassed  grin 
spread  over  an  unshaven  face  and  some  nervousness 
about  mud  stains  on  my  white  trousers,  I  was  welcomed 
in  Spanish  by  the  Don,  xirievalo,  and  the  Donna 
Mercedes,  his  wife,  and  introduced  to  the  two  charm- 
ing daughters,  Dolores  and  Hercilar,  as  the  ''Consul 
Americano,"  which  designation  they  certainly  did  not 
learn  from  me.  I  have  given  the  proper  names  of  all 
I  have  mentioned  in  this  narrative  with  a  view  to 
reference  as  well  as  to  acknowledge  my  obligations  for 
courtesies  and  kindly  hospitality. 

I  had  intended  going  on  three  hours  beyond  and 
though  it  was  early  in  the  afternoon,  I  suddenly  suc- 
cumbed to  exhaustion  and  meekly  asked  permission  to 
camp  on  their  bar.  All  joined  in  a  vigorous  protest, 
the  Don  commanding  that  I  make  his  house  my  own  for 
the  time  being,  the  donna  and  senoritas  uniting  in  their 
happy  way  of  offering  hospitality. 


SENORITAS  DOLORES  AND  HERCILAR    175 

As  it  was  a  distillery  famed  for  good  cachasa  the 
Indians  were  glad  to  see  I  had  dropped  into  their 
trap  and  prepared  for  a  night  of  jollification.  I  did 
the  honors  for  them  by  buying  a  liberal  quantity  of 
rum  which  they  at  once  drank,  becoming  gloriously 
drunk.  I  was  afraid  they  might  go  off  with  my  canoe 
and  valuables,  but  the  Don  assured  me  there  was  no 
danger  as  the  drunken  Indian  is  an  honest  Indian,  and 
though  acting  very  wild  when  full  of  rum,  they  do  not 
disturb  property  in  their  care. 

The  Indians  associated  with  those  of  the  place  and 
had  a  jolly  good  time  to  themselves  on  the  bar,  without 
at  all  disturbing  a  delightful  evening  on  the  porch  in 
the  society  of  the  ladies  and  the  Don.  The  younger 
senorita  Dolores  had  but  recently  returned  to  this  her 
home,  from  a  school  in  Para,  and  was  cheerfully 
occupying  the  dull  hours  in  teaching  the  numerous 
half  naked  children  of  her  father's  twenty-five  families 
of  peons  the  rudiments  from  the  Spanish  text  books. 
The  elder  sister  busied  herself  in  instructing  the  older 
women  in  weaving  and  the  making  of  clothing. 

Nearly  the  entire  village  was  engaged  during  certain 
hours  in  the  work  connected  with  the  gin  mill,  a  crude 
affair  roughly  constructed  for  pressing  the  juice  from 
the  cane  that  grows  wild  in  that  land.  The  operation 
of  the  mill  required  the  use  of  considerable  water  and 
as  there  was  no  higher  source  of  supply  convenient,  and 
no  pipes  or  means  of  forcing  it,  the  supply  was  obtained 
by  making  a  line  of  children  from  the  river  to  the  mill 
which  passed  water  in  gourds  in  a  constant  stream 
from  the  river  up  several  hundred  feet  to  the  mill. 
Some  of  the  young  girls  who  carried  water  on  thqir 


176  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

heads  in  the  earthen  jars  were  quite  pretty  and  all 
were  graceful  and  well  formed. 

We  enjoyed  a  comfortable  dinner  of  fish  and  game, 
seated  around  the  table  with  the  family,  waited  upon 
by  young  half  breed  girls  w^ho  were  too  well  bred  to 
exhibit  any  curiosity  about  the  guest,  a  white  face 
they  had  never  seen  before,  accepting  gracefully  the 
little  trinkets  offered  them.  Later  in  the  evening 
the  two  sisters  sang  for  us  to  the  guitar  accompani- 
ment a  sweet  good-bj^e  song,  with  their  black  eyes 
adding  expression  to  the  music. 

We  were  urged  to  stay  for  a  fortnight,  the  donna 
promising  to  accompany  us  at  that  time,  with  Dolores, 
as  far  as  the  donna's  former  home  in  the  village  of 
Moyabamba,  several  days'  travel  whence  we  were 
bound.  In  early  morning  I  reluctantly  bade  them 
adios,  hoping  to  meet  them  later  in  Moyabamba,  our 
Indians  none  the  less  active  after  their  jamboree  were 
ready  to  proceed  at  daylight  as  usual. 

We  took  our  coffee  on  the  fifth  day  at  Quillocaca, 
the  relay  point,  where  there  is  another  extensive 
hacienda  and  a  large  distillery,  the  property  of  Don 
Delgado,  of  Yurrimaguas,  from  whom  I  had  letters  of 
introduction  addressed  to  "Donna  Maria,"  requesting 
a  renewal  of  canoes  and  Indians  with  supplies  for  a  con- 
tinuance of  our  journey;  also  an  endorsement  of  myself 
to  the  hospitalities  of  her  establishment.  From  the 
business  tone  of  this  letter  I  had  pictured  Donna  Maria 
as  of  the  regulation  Spanish  type  of  the  donna,  a  robust 
woman  of  fifty  or  sixty  in  a  shiny  black  dress,  an 
imposing  personage,  who  would  be  bristling  with  in- 
terrogation points  as  to  .what  I  was  after  in  this  part 


QUILLOCACA  177 

of  her  country  anyway,  and  who  would  in  a  strictly 
business  like  way  charge  me  liberally  for  all  she 
gave  up. 

The  casa  or  house  of  Quillocaca  is  situate  on  a  bluff 
in  a  grove  of  tropical  trees,  the  vines  from  the  under- 
growth reaching  down  over  the  bank  to  the  edge  of 
the  clear  fast  running  water  of  the  Huallagua,  so  close 
to  the  mountain  that  we  can  feel  the  coolness  from  the 
shadows  when  the  sun  gets  over  to  the  west.  Winding 
indifferently  up  the  crooked  path  toward  the  house, 
determining  in  my  o^vn  mind  to  hurry  up  the  old  donna 
that  I  might  get  started  further  on  my  way  without 
delay  perhaps  with  a  lingering  regret  at  having  left 
Dolores  so  soon,  I  approached  the  boss  Indian  of  the 
place  giving  him  my  letters  for  the  donna,  with  a 
demand  to  hurry  up.  Sitting  down  resignedly  to  await 
the  usual  delay  which  every  one  must  experience  in 
the  Land  of  To-Morrow,  I  had  opportunity  to  observe 
that  of  the  numerous  haciendas  I  had  visited,  this  one 
appeared  to  be  the  cleanest  and  best  and  looked  as  if 
managed  with  order  and  system.  The  Napo  inter- 
preter who  always  insisted  on  accompanying  me  on 
these  visits  of  inspection,  but  whose  presence  I  some- 
times resented,  was  at  my  side  and  not  feeling  kindly 
I  was  expressing  my  views  in  a  loud  voice  to  the 
effect  that  the  principal  business  or  product  of  the 
country  was  cachsa  and  babies. 

At  every  stopping  place  I  found  the  gin  mill,  and 
clustered  around  chewing  on  the  refuse  or  pressed  cane 
were  the  dozens  of  nude  copper  colored  youngsters. 
The  interpreter  with  that  exasperating  grin,  that 
always  made  me  feel  like  throwing  something  at  him, 


178  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

signified  that  there  was  someone  listening.  .On  glanc- 
ing around  I  was  astonished  to  see  an  apparition  in 
black  standing  in  the  doorway  in  the  form  of  a  pretty 
lady  smiling  at  my  embarrassment,  as  I  rose  stammer- 
ing that  I  hoped  to  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  her 
mother  the  Donno  Maria.  The  stupid  interpreter 
failed  to  read  my  mind  and  had  not  thought  it  worth 
while  to  say  that  this  was  ''Donna  Maria"  until  he  had 
heard  me  address  the  young  looking  lady  as  the  daugh- 
ter. The  incident  was  an  unintentional  compliment  to 
the  hostess  which  she  enjoyed  with  a  laugh  at  my 
expense  putting  us  all  on  good  footing  at  once. 

I  found  the  little  donna  to  be  an  accomplished  lady 
of  the  land,  the  wife  of  a  wealthy  gentleman  who  hap- 
pened to  be  at  the  time  in  Yurrimaguas,  and  hearing  of 
our  trip  had  kindly  offered  the  hospitality  of  his  place, 
which  was  being  managed  by  his  wife.  She  was  not 
at  all  business  like,  but  moved  about  in  a  quiet  lady- 
like way  accomplishing  the  difficult  task  of  managing 
the  Indian  laborers  and  their  numerous  children  like 
a  little  queen,  with  a  pleasant  smile  for  every  one, 
seldom  speaking  to  any  of  the  numerous  peons  who 
went  about  their  tasks  mechanically. 

In  a  short  time  coffee  was  served  under  the  trees, 
and  later  in  the  day  an  elegant  breakfast  of  fried 
chicken,  jellies  and  a  homemade  wine,  made  from  the 
cane  juice,  not  so  strong  as  rum,  mildly  flavored  with 
oranges,  a  most  insidious  decoction  of  which  I  partook 
rather  freely,  with  the  charming  donna  at  my  side. 

The  Indians  who  had  brought  me  thus  far  returned 
to  Yurrimaguas,  old  Lucas  showing  considerable  feel- 
ing at  parting,  embracing  me  vigorously  to  the  great 


DONNA  MARIA  179 

amusement  of  the  donna,  and  groups  of  Indians  who 
had  gathered  to  see  us  depart,  one  party  going  down 
while  we  started  up,  in  the  early  eve  of  the  same 
day  of  arrival,  the  donna  having  arranged  everything 
for  our  comfort  in  the  way  of  supplies  of  chickens, 
etc.,  for  which  nothing  would  be  accepted  because  I 
had  made  some  trifling  gifts  of  linens,  clothing  and 
ribbons  from  the  abundance  in  my  trunk. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

HE  river  above  Quillocaca  to  Chasuta, 
the  head  of  all  canoe  navigation,  a 
distance  measured  by  two  days' 
canoeing  up  stream  and  five  hours 
down,  pours  its  great  volume  of  water 
through  a  deep  gorge,  like  the  Pongo 
Mansierriche,  which  the  rushing  tor- 
rents of  the  ages  have  worn  in  or  through  the  moun- 
tains. 

In  the  way  of  wild  and  picturesque  beauty,  this 
section  of  the  Land  of  To-Morrow  probably  surpasses 
anything  we  have  in  the  way  of  scenery  on  exhibition 
in  the  canyons  of  the  Colorado  or  mayhap  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone. The  mountain  tops  are  usually  as  high 
and  the  sides  as  precipitous,  the  canyon  frequently 
so  narrow  and  tortuous  that  a  foot  trail  for  even  an 
Indian  to  leap  over  the  rocks  and  boulders  along  the 
shores,  has  been  found  impracticable,  except  with  the 
aid  of  well  manned  canoes  and  the  use  of  ropes  that  are 
necessary  for  protection  as  well  as  to  overcome  the 
current  and  rapids  at  some  points. 

In  addition  to  the  overreaching  height  the  moun- 
tains of  this  region  are  surpassingly  beautiful  in  their 
dressing  of  rich  foliage,  much  unlike  the  ashy  heaps 
and  barren  rocks  of  some  parts  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
or  the  desolate  heights  of  the  Andes  on  the  west 
coast  of  Peru. 

The  sides  of  the  hills  seem  to  be  covered  with  the 
180 


CANYONS  OF  CORDILLERAS  181 

growth  of  all  zones,  from  that  of  the  tropics  in  the 
valleys  up  the  hillsides  through  a  temperate  zone, 
beyond  a  line  of  vegetation  almost  to  the  snow  capped 
peaks  where  underneath  the  tall  trees  is  a  mass  of 
luxuriant  undergrowth,  completely  covering  the  rocky 
hillsides,  which  with  the  vines  show  clusters  of  rich 
colored  trumpet  shaped  flowers  the  dense  growth 
seeming  to  aid  the  rushing  water  in  making  the  pass 
difficult. 

For  two  days  our  relay  of  canoeists  perseveringly 
poled  the  canoe  along  the  shore  under  the  shadow  of 
these  mountains,  not  daring  to  venture  into  the  middle 
of  the  stream.  In  the  portage  over  what  they  con- 
sidered dangerous  places,  two  of  the  paddlers  were  sent 
ashore  with  a  strong  wide  rope  some  forty  or  fifty 
feet  long,  by  hanging  to  which  they  managed  to  tow 
their  little  canoe  over  the  rapids  or  around  rocky 
whirlpools  that  were  impassible  in  the  ordinary  way, 
and  dangerous  without  this  safeguard.  At  places  the 
canoe  would  not  advance  its  own  length  for  half  an 
hour  at  a  time  the  strong  current  resisting  fiercely  the 
vigorous  efforts  of  both  poles,  paddles  and  tow  line  to 
forge  ahead.  As  may  be  assumed,  I  did  not  repose  con- 
tentedly in  the  rameda  while  the  rushing  water  fairly 
foamed  with  rage  in  an  apparent  effort  to  keep  us 
back,  but  was  compelled  to  kneel  on  the  bottom  clutch- 
ing the  sides  of  the  trembling  canoe  in  dread  antici- 
pation of  the  current  swinging  us  around,  when  we 
would  have  been  dashed  on  the  rocky  rapids.  To 
add  to  the  terror  of  the  hour,  the  waters  made  so  much 
of  a  roar  that  even  shouts  of  the  Indian  steersman 
were  fairly  drowned,  but  the  Indians  bravely  hang  to 


182  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

it  and  almost  exhausted,  drop  on  the  shore  to  rest, 
after  a  bad  piece  had  been  passed.  Though  all  seem 
to  get  through  safely,  it  is  an  experience  the  white 
man  does  not  care  to  repeat,  though  it  is  said  the  dash 
down  stream  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  with  a  compe- 
tent Indian  pilot,  is  a  glorious  five  hours'  running  of 
rapids  and  cascades. 

At  a  point  in  the  gorge  or  canyon,  we  halted  under 
the  lee  of  some  tremendous  boulders,  the  Indians  pan- 
tomimically  calling  attention  to  the  cascade  of  foaming 
water  dashing  over  the  rocky  hillside,  apparently  com- 
ing from  a  considerable  height  in  volume  and  appear- 
ance resembling  somewhat  the  falls  in  the  Yosemite. 
On  approaching  I  discovered  to  my  astonishment  that 
the  considerable  body  of  water  being  discharged  into 
a  rocky  basin  was  quite  hot.  I  have  seen  a  number  of 
so-called  hot  springs,  where  luke  warm  water  in  limited 
quantities  ekes  from  a  muddy  level  at  the  base-  of  a 
barren  mountain,  the  environment  of  hot  springs  being 
usually  desolate,  but  here  was  a  stream  of  real  hot 
water  tumbling  over  a  mountain  side  through  dense 
tropical  foliage  in  a  succession  of  cascades,  emptying 
into  a  rocky  basin  on  the  level  of  the  river,  the  waters 
of  which  were  cool  as  the  ordinary  mountain  stream. 

The  water  in  the  basin  or  rocky  eddy  is  made  com- 
fortably warm  for  bathing  by  the  river  water  affording 
an  excellent  natural  hot  and  cold  water  bathing  pool 
in  which  the  Indians  and  white  men  washed  comfort- 
ably— the  white  flesh  of  the  padrone  seeming  to  be  a 
never  ending  source  of  interest  to  the  copper  skinned 
compodres. 

This  water  has  never  been  properly  analyzed,  but  it 


HOT  WATER  CASCADE  183 

is  well  known  as  a  sure  cure  for  all  sorts  of  sores,  or 
skin  affections  and  it  is  claimed  to  cure  cancers  of  the 
stomach. 

My  hands  and  wrists  that  had  been  made  sore  by  the 
troublesome  fly  and  mosquito  bites  were  bathed  in 
the  hot  water  before  it  mixed,  the  immediate  effect 
being  somewhat  like  that  of  thrusting  the  hand  into 
a  pot  of  hot  brine  or  vinegar.  Though  it  was  rather 
severe  I  can  bear  truthful  testimony  to  efficacy  of  the 
cure.  On  the  following  morning  nearly  every  trace 
of  the  poison  that  had  so  persistently  held  on,  had 
disappeared. 

This  hot  water  falls  is  located  at  a  point  called 
''Puco"  or  as  near  as  I  could  get  the  Indian  sound 
*'Yaquillo."  Just  beyond,  a  stream  of  very  clear  cool 
water  is  reached,  so  pure  and  crystal  like  that  it 
clarifies  even  the  clear  water  of  the  main  river.  It  is 
known  as  *  *  Curiyaca,  * '  a  stream  that  heads  in  the  tall 
sugar  loaf  shaped  mountain  some  distance  beyond  of 
the  same  name,  on  the  head  waters  of  which  it  is  said 
are  unusually  rich  gold  deposits.  The  Indians  desired 
to  impress  me  with  their  story,  that  it  was  the  home  of 
the  devil,  that  no  person  who  went  there  ever  returned, 
which  I  knew  to  be  one  of  their  little  fictions  to  keep 
white  men  away  from  a  good  thing. 

I  had  no  desire  to  venture  alone,  but  should  like  very 
much  to  lead  a  party  of  men  with  Winchester  rifles  to 
make  a  call  on  this  devil.  On  a  tremendous  boulder 
near  by  are  some  curious  hieroglyphics  which  the 
Indians  say  have  always  been  there.  I  failed  to  get  a 
correct  photo  of  them  because  of  the  position  of 
the  rock,  that  may  only  be  moved  by  dynamite.     The 


184  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Indians  look  upon  these  carved  picture  writings  as  a 
posted  notice  from  the  devil  against  trespassing  on  his 
domain.  They  believe  implicitly  in  a  personal  devil, 
and  if  any  white  man  ventures  up  this  stream  it  will  be 
without  an  Indian  guide. 

In  the  canyon  are  also  located  the  celebrated  salt 
mines  of  Peru,  which  is  in  reality  a  mountain  of  salt,  to 
which  the  natives  have  for  centuries  journeyed  from  all 
over  the  upper  Amazon,  even  to  upper  Ecuador,  requir- 
ing almost  a  year  for  the  voyage  both  ways,  to  obtain 
their  supply  of  salt.  We  passed  numerous  ''balsa's," 
as  the  rafts  are  called,  floating  down  stream  laden  with 
salt.  One  of  the  striking  and  weird  experiences  of 
this  lonely  voyage  is  created  by  the  plaintive  calls  or 
signals  exchanged  between  the  Indians  passing  at  some 
distance  in  canoes,  the  curious  sounds  of  their  words 
and  highly  pitched  voices  being  echoed  and  re-echoed 
from  the  walls  of  rocky  covered  forest  on  either  side 
of  the  canyon. 

On  every  descending  canoe  or  balsa  laden  with  salt 
there  was  conspicuously  displayed  a  rude  cross.  The 
sight  of  the  emblem  floating  down  the  rapid  river  in 
the  twilight  or  shadow  of  silent  hills,  served  to  heighten 
the  solemnity  of  the  surroundings.  When  asked  if  I 
were  not  afraid  to  be  alone  amongst  savages  in  the 
solitude  of  the  forests,  I  recall  these  scenes  of  the 
cross,  which  in  effect  serves  to  allay  any  apprehension 
from  those  who  held  my  life  entirely  at  their  mercy. 

We  halted  at  the  salt  mines  long  enough  to  observe 
their  method  of  working.  The  rock  salt  in  the  hill- 
side or  mountain  crops  out  like  an  immense  sand  stone 
quarry,  the  salt  being  taken  out  in  blocks  as  stone  is 


INDIANS  POISON  FISH  185 

quarried,  in  any  shape  or  size  as  happens  to  come  to 
their  hands.  It  is  hard  and  crystal  like  as  at  first 
obtained. 

Though  they  may  obtain  modern  implements  for  cut- 
ting out  the  blocks  of  salt,  these  people  Indian  like 
adhere  to  the  original  method  of  using  running  water 
instead  of  iron  tools.  I  regret  I  failed  to  preserve  the 
name  applied  to  this  process.  The  squaws  and  men,  big 
and  little,  form  a  line  to  the  river  or  nearest  water, 
conveying  in  their  earthen  vessels  water  which  is 
poured  by  an  expert  in  a  way  that  leads  the  stream  in 
the  little  channels  they  have  outlined,  the  constant 
running  water  wears  the  channels  deep  enough  to  admit 
of  their  being  split  or  broken  off  on  blocks,  which  are 
loaded  on  the  balsas  and  floated  to  the  entire  country 
below.  This  method  is  not  as  much  practiced  as 
formerly  as  the  advance  of  commerce  has  brought 
with  it  the  supplies  of  salt,  etc. 

While  still  in  the  shadow  of  this  canyon,  we  came 
across  the  camps  of  some  fishermen  comprising  men, 
women  and  children  of  a  tribe  that  had  come  down 
from  the  mountains  to  lay  in  their  annual  supply.  Their 
method  of  fishing  would  not  be  tolerated  in  any  other 
land.  The  Moyabamba  and  Tarapota  Indians  cultivate 
a  plant  in  their  gardens  which  is  called  the  **  deadly 
Liana  Timpaca,"  the  Peruvian  officials  know  of  it,  and 
collect  a  tax  on  it.  The  root  of  this  plant  is  pounded 
between  stones  and  thrown  into  the  pools  of  still  water 
or  eddies  where  fish  are  known  to  collect,  giving  the 
water  a  creamy  appearance.  In  a  few  moments  the 
fish  begin  to  appear  on  the  surface  in  a  helpless  condi- 
tion from  the  effects  of  the  poison.     They  are  hastily 


186  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

gathered  in  baskets  and  nets  and  thrown  on  the  shore 
where  the  women  at  once  clean  them,  to  prevent  the 
poison  saturating  the  flesh,  when  they  are  packed  and 
salted  in  the  baskets,  ready  to  be  carried  on  the  backs 
of  the  women  and  children  to  the  interiors  for  use  or 
for  trade.  Of  course  this  poisoning  of  the  pools  has  the 
effect  of  destroying  all  the  young  fish  and  spawn  in 
order  that  a  comparatively  few  fish  are  obtained  for 
the  present  use  of  some  reckless  Indians. 

Subsequently  when  pressed  by  the  Peruvian  officials 
atMoyabamba  for  some  impressions  of  my  trip  I  availed 
myself  of  the  opportunity  to  show  that  the  food  fish  of 
the  entire  region  was  being  destroyed  by  a  few  Indians 
who  unfortunately  were  able  to  operate  in  one  of  the 
main  sources  of  supply  and  thereby  able  to  do  much 
injury  to  all  the  region  below.  Then  I  explained  to 
the  Prefect,  that  in  our  country  the  government  and 
laws  not  only  prohibited  such  destruction  but  spent 
much  money  in  studying  the  best  methods  of  protection 
and  of  keeping  up  the  supply  of  food  fish  or  restocking 
the  head  waters  or  breeding  places.  The  discussion 
disclosed  that  the  poisonous  shrub  was  being  largely 
cultivated,  but  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  that 
my  voluntary  missionary  efforts  would  bear  fruit  of 
not  only  placing  a  ban  against  poisoning  fish,  but  also 
prohibit  the  growing  of  the  poison. 

In  this  land  of  everlasting  summer  and  occasional 
hurricanes  the  atmospheric  changes  are  oftentimes  sud- 
denly appalling.  During  the  evening  of  the  last  day  in 
the  canyon  we  were  afforded  an  exhibition  of  fireworks 
in  the  way  of  lightning  accompanied  by  thunder  that  in 
its  suddenness  and  fierceness  resembled  an  earthquake 


CLOUDBURST  IN  CANYON  187 

and  hurricane  combined  with  a  cloudburst.  The  pad- 
dlers  had  detected  its  approach  from  the  lowering 
clouds  which  made  it  almost  dark  in  the  canyon. 
Chattering  among  themselves,  they  pulled  the  canoe 
inshore  behind  a  big  rock  and  immediately  began 
undressing  as  if  for  a  bath,  motioning  for  me  to  get 
inside  the  rameda,  pointing  significantly  at  the  sky. 
As  each  took  off  his  shirt  and  apology  for  trousers 
they  rolled  them  into  bundles  deliberately  sitting  on 
them  as  if  intended  for  cushions  on  which  to  smoke 
previous  to  a  plunge  bath.  While  wondering  and 
watching  to  see  what  they  were  going  to  do  next  (as 
they  were  always  a  curiosity  to  me)  the  big  drops 
admonished  me  that  it  was  going  to  rain  and  I  had 
scarcely  scrambled  inside  the  rameda  when  the  storm 
broke  loose  and  rain  fell  in  torrents,  half  filling  my 
rameda  and  drenching  me  through  the  palm  thatch. 
At  a  favorable  opportunity  I  crawled  out  like  a  drown- 
ing rat,  wondering  if  the  blast  had  carried  the  Indians 
off,  but  they  were  each  sitting  complacently  on  the 
rock,  on  their  clothing,  each  having  enjoyed  a  shower 
bath  instead  of  a  plunge,  and  all  had  dry  clothes  to  put 
on,  which  was  the  object  of  disrobing  and  sitting  on 
them  during  a  rain  as  is  the  custom,  another  evidence 
of  the  superior  intelligence  of  the  Indian. 

We  have  passed  through  thousands  of  miles  of  the 
Brazils  where  only  Portuguese  is  spoken,  and  an  equal 
distance  through  the  montana  of  Peru,  where  Spanish 
is  the  language.  Now  we  have  reached  a  region  where 
neither  is  understood,  and  the  natives  **go  a  fishing'* 
in  the  dialect  of  the  different  tribes. 

Chasuta  is  an  ugly  Indian  village  situated  on  the 


188  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

only  bit  of  level  ground  there  is  in  the  canyon,  between 
the  two  big  mountains  through  which  we  have  passed. 
Fishing  and  canoeing  are  the  only  objects  in  the  life 
of  this  tribe,  who  are  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the 
river.  They  are  famous  canoeists,  known  far  and  wide 
for  their  skill,  acquired  through  constant  practice 
amongst  the  rocks  and  rapids.  When  the  Peruvian 
government  officials  at  Lima  undertake  explorations  on 
the  numerous  rivers  of  the  region  known  as  ''Fluvial 
Amazonas'*  they  send  to  Chasuta  for  Indian  canoeists. 
Such  is  their  reputation  all  over  the  land. 

The  old  steersman  who  brought  me  safely  up  over 
the  lower  rapids  was  a  wrinkled  specimen  who  might 
have  been  a  hundred  years  old,  yet  with  a  glance  at  a 
dangerous  place  his  wicked  eye  would  brighten  sav- 
agely, as  he  wielded  the  paddle  dextriously,  guiding 
the  canoe  as  deftly  as  a  dude  would  punch  a  billiard 
ball  in  a  comfortable  room.  The  Indian  women  are 
almost  as  skillful  as  the  men  in  the  handling  of  canoes, 
which  may  be  called  the  ''cradle"  of  the  Chasuta.  the 
young  of  both  sexes  being  literally  rocked  in  the  cradle 
of  the  canoe.  The  climate  being  mild,  but  little  cloth- 
ing is  required,  usually  comprising  one  home  spun  gar- 
ment for  the  grown,  while  with  the  younger  it  is  a 
case  of  nature  unadorned. 

These  river  Indians  have  one  point  of  attraction 
greater  than  those  of  the  interior.  They  are  usually 
clean,  which  they  can 't  help,  as  the  plunge  bath  is  their 
sole  exercise.  The  young  of  both  sexes  disport  in  the 
clear  water,  indiscriminately,  and  recklessly  exposing 
nude  figures  of  which  they  would  be  vain,  if  they  were 
more  civilized.     The  symmetrical  figures,  grace  of  bear- 


INDIAN  BATHING  PLACE  189 

ing,  due  to  their  untrammelled  dressing,  amply  com- 
pensate for  the  lack  of  facial  beauty. 

The  inevitable  delay  at  Chasuta  is  compensated  for 
by  the  entertainment  afforded  by  the  Indian  perform- 
ances in  the  water.  A  favorite  bathing  place  for  the 
more  exclusive  Indian  girls  is  a  part  of  the  gravelly 
shore  shaded  by  the  tall  moimtains,  located  a  little 
below  the  town.  While  fishing  from  a  little  canoe, 
using  a  pole  and  line  instead  of  the  paddle,  the  boat 
unconsciously  drifted  toward  the  bathing  resort.  The 
bathers  were  not  disposed  to  resent  our  intrusion. 
We  were  welcomed  with  shouts  of  laughter  and 
hilarious  gestures,  exhibiting  a  rollicking  disregard  of 
conventionalities  that  would  have  entertained  an 
Atlantic  City  crowd.  Our  canoe  was  surrounded,  the 
young  imps  diving  like  porpoises,  rising  with  mouths 
full  of  water  which  they  would  squirt  over  us  like 
young  whales.  We  were  entirely  at  their  mercy,  and 
glad  to  get  away  without  being  upset,  and  treated  to 
a  ducking,  for  our  temerity. 

There  not  being  sufficient  level  ground  in  their 
country  to  do  much  farming,  the  principal  diet  of  this 
tribe  is  fish,  which  they  take  in  large  quantities  by  the 
use  of  poison,  or  the  crude  appliances  for  netting  and 
spearing.  There  is  also  an  abundance  of  game  which 
the  young  Indians  secure,  the  principal  dependency 
being  the  wild  hog  or  boars  which  roam  over  the  steep 
mountain  sides  with  the  wild  goats  and  bears.  Wild 
turkeys  and  smaller  game  helps  to  make  a  plentiful 
supply  of  meat,  while  the  wild  growth  of  the  Yucca, 
and  the  plantain  furnish  the  substitute  for  bread. 

As  is  the   custom  on  arrival   at  a  new  village,   I 


190  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

reported  at  once  to  the  Governador  or  Spanish  Alcalde, 
Senor  Sandoval,  to  whom  I  was  endorsed  and  who  wel- 
comed the  stranger  courteously,  as  is  the  habit,  insisting 
on  my  making  his  house  my  own  during  my  stay  in  his 
village.  His  wife  and  son  with  two  charming  daughters 
united  in  their  efforts  to  make  an  agreeable  stay  in  a 
disagreeable  town.  The  eldest  senorita,  Adalina  Auroro 
Sandoval,  whose  pretty  name  I  copy  from  her  own 
graceful  handwriting  in  m}^  note  book,  which  I  cherish 
with  that  of  Senorita  Dolores  Arievalo  and  many  others, 
was  a  tall  slender  and  graceful  senorita  of  fifteen. 

The  reader  who  might  see  the  writing  in  my  note 
book  of  the  several  young  girls  and  men  would  be  sur- 
prised to  know  that  so  much  intelligence  pervaded  the 
wilds  of  that  far  off  land.  It  became  a  fad  with  me 
to  have  a  number  of  these  people  write  their  own 
names  in  my  note  book,  and  while  I  write  out  these 
notes  in  widely  different  surroundings,  I  am  glad  to 
be  able  to  bear  testimony  to  their  goodness  and  the 
fact  that  though  living  among  savages  they  are  not  con- 
taminated by  contact. 

One  of  the  pleasant  features  about  the  ugly  town  is 
that  the  altitude  (though  in  the  tropics)  is  so  great 
that  mosquitoes  are  not  numerous  at  night  and  sand 
flies  are  not  known  in  day  time.  It  is  satisfactory  to 
note  that  after  leaving  the  river  at  this  point,  the 
tourist  will  not  again  be  troubled  with  the  pests  until 
he  reaches  civilization  on  the  Pacific  coast,  but  there 
are  others  to  contend  with  in  the  interiors. 

Strolling  through  the  Indian  village  with  the  Napo 
as  an  interpreter,  with  a  view  of  learning  something  of 
their  life,  and  a  newspaper  explorer's  nose  for  novelty. 


GLOVES  ASTONISH  NATIVES  191 

I  put  on  my  eye  glasses  and  gloves  and  with  bated 
breath,  as  if  inspecting  a  small-pox  camp,  peered  into 
their  huts,  but  at  sight  of  my  eye  glasses,  every  young 
Indian  would  scamper  out  of  a  hol6  in  the  hut,  hiding 
themselves  in  the  thick  brush  as  completely  as  young 
quail  or  chickens  from  a  hawk.  After  some  diplomacy 
we  prevailed  on  a  couple  of  old  men  and  women  to 
talk  with  us.  Soon  there  gathered  about  us  in  a 
cautious  way  a  number  of  the  younger,  men  and  women. 
The  Indian  in  his  hut  is  a  different  animal  from  the 
same  in  his  canoe,  liable  to  be  suspicious  and  dis- 
agreeable, in  more  than  one  way.  Instead  of  a  vinai- 
grette I  carried  in  my  pocket  a  bottle  of  rum.  The 
old  kid  gloves  I  wore  for  protection  from  fly  bites 
excited  the  curiosity  of  an  old  fellow  who  took  my 
hand  and  pulled  down  the  glove  from  my  wrist,  ex- 
posing some  skin,  considerably  whiter  thati  my  sun- 
burned hands  and  face.  With  a  grunt  he  called  atten- 
tion to  it,  the  whole  crowd  coming  closer  than  I  desired, 
to  gratify  their  curiosity.  The  removal  of  the  glove 
was  as  much  of  an  amusement  as  would  have  been  the 
peeling  of  the  skin  from  my  hands. 

To  amuse  them  one  of  the  gloves  was  taken  off  and 
passed  around  among  them  with  as  much  curiosity  as 
if  it  were  a  part  of  my  anatomy.  The  youngsters  be- 
coming more  confident  approached  close  enough  to  pull 
up  my  sleeves  to  see  if  the  skin  was  really  white  all  the 
way,  some  of  the  younger  urchins  had  the  audacity  to 
turn  up  my  trousers  looking  for  white  skin  in  that 
direction. 

Noticing  a  young  girl  with  a  baby  strapped  to  her 
back,  I  made  a  motion  toward  caressing  it,  at  which 


192  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  cute  little  bit  of  humanity  looked  into  my  face 
and  laughed,  which  put  the  entire  crowd  in  great  good 
humor  with  me.  Babies  are  very  discriminating  and 
I  am  glad  to  know  they  always  laugh  at  me. 

The  incident  served  to  bring  to  the  front  its  father, 
quite  a  young  looking  boy,  who  was  thrust  before  me 
as  a  hero.  It  was  my  turn  to  be  surprised.  I  supposed 
the  little  girl  carrying  the  baby  was  its  nurse  and  could 
scarcely  believe  she  was  the  mother  and  this  cub  of 
a  boy  the  father,  but  it  was  so.  Noticing  a  number  of 
other  young  girls  in  the  crowd  (the  entire  village  hav- 
ing come  around  us)  I  selected  the  best  looking  of  the 
lot,  and  putting  my  hand  in  my  pocket  for  a  small 
silver  coin,  indicated  to  her  mother  that  I  wanted  to 
buy  the  girl,  the  old  woman  taking  up  the  joke  at 
once,  took  the  money  at  which  the  girl  disappeared  as 
quickly  as  if  she  had  fallen  through  the  earth. 

There  was  a  bamboo  Catholic  church  in  the  village 
and  the  usual  Spanish  or  native  Priest,  who  as  the  prin- 
cipal citizen  of  the  town  was  invited  to  dine  with  the 
stranger  at  the  Governador 's.  We  sat  down  to  an 
ample  spread,  comprising  wild  hog,  turkey,  fish,  with 
the  vegetables  of  the  country  and  delightful  water 
cress. 

The  presence  of  the  charming  senorita,  Adelina,  and 
her  younger  sister,  did  not  deter  the  jolly  old  Padre 
from  relating  some  spicy  gossip  and  pungent  stories 
that  one  would  hardly  expect  to  hear  from  a  clergyman, 
though  it  may  have  been  more  appreciated  because  of 
its  apparent  authenticity. 


CHAPTER  Xm. 

HOUGH  we  are  at  the  head  of  canoeing 
on  the  Huallagua  it  is  possible  to 
ascend  an  affluent  called  the  Mayo, 
which  leads  through  the  canyon  to 
the  valley  of  Tarapota  and  Moya- 
bamba,  to  which  we  are  bound.  The 
Alcalde  Sandoval  rather  preferred 
that  route  to  the  tramp  over  the  mountain,  but  as  I 
had  enough  canoeing,  especially  in  canyons,  I  decided 
to  climb  the  mountains  to  Taropota,  a  distance  of 
seven  leagues  as  it  is  reckoned  in  Spanish,  equivalent 
to  fifteen  or  twenty  miles;  but  on  account  of  the  road 
leading  directly  over  the  mountain  it  required  two 
days'  time.  In  the  entire  trip  across  the  continent 
from  this  point,  this  is  the  only  part  of  the  mountain 
trails  that  must  be  done  afoot.  In  many  other  sec- 
tions, the  mountain  mules  will  climb  steeps  where  one 
would  suppose  a  human  being  would  not  venture,  but 
on  the  trail  at  the  start  and  for  two  days,  not  even  a 
goat  can  find  footing  on  the  almost  precipitous  sides 
of  the  mountain,  some  places  having  to  be  gained  by 
climbing  the  ladders  made  from  the  hanging  vines. 

In  reply  to  inquiries  of  officials  and  reference  to  the 
books  published  regarding  travel  in  those  lands,  one 
will  be  told  that  certain  journeys  can  be  accomplished 
in  so  many  days.  It  is  always  best  to  double  on  this 
time  given  by  the  Spaniard,  but  on  the  other  hand 
the  Indians  wil  always  exaggerate  time  and  distance, 

193 


194  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

their  conception  of  both  being  in  the  nature  of  the 
unknown  quantity.  As  a  rule  no  allowance  is  made  for 
the  inevitable  delays  all  along  the  route. 

As  is  the  custom,  I  applied  to  the  Alcalde  Sandoval 
for  the  quota  of  Indians  to  convey  myself  and  inter- 
preter with  bed  and  baggage  over  the  tops  of  the  moun- 
tain to  Tarapota.  He  in  turn  must  select  from  his  vil- 
lage or  district  those  he  desires  to  act  as  the  escort, 
the  choice  being  in  the  nature  of  a  conscription  to  which 
there  can  be  no  refusal,  but  the  Indian  will  be  sure  to 
demand  time  to  prepare  food  for  the  journey,  which 
usually  takes  more  time  than  the  travelling.  I  found 
this  to  be  the  case  not  only  in  the  first,  but  in  every  stop 
or  relay  I  made  across  the  continent,  in  this  instance 
the  Alcalde  making  the  delay  agreeable  by  his  hospi- 
tality. 

An  outfit  of  four  Indians  was  provided  at  a  cost  of 
one  sole,  or  fifty  cents  each,  to  Tarapota,  including  the 
carrying  of  the  luggage,  bed  and  provisions  neces- 
sary for  camping. 

In  the  matter  of  luggage  the  least  the  best,  care  being 
taken  to  make  packages  of  leather  bags,  each  holding 
seventy-five  to  one  hundred  pounds,  arranged  that  they 
may  be  put  across  the  mule's  back  and  carried  as  sad- 
dlebags. 

An  Indian  or  a  mule  will  carry  from  one  hundred  to 
two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  the  amount  being  regu- 
lated on  the  same  principal  as  that  of  a  loaded  wagon, 
depending  on  the  condition  of  the  roads  or  the  grades 
that  have  to  be  overcome. 

It  is  a  mere  matter  of  personal  preference,  whether 
one  selects  an  Indian  or  a  mule,  both  carry  aboiit  the 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  TRAMPING  195 

same  burdens  and  on  general  principles  are  treated 
alike.  Perhaps  the  mule  gets  a  little  more  considera- 
tion than  the  Indian  because  he  will  kick  while  the 
Indian  is  quite  docile,  unless  he  gets  drunk,  which  is 
one  point  in  favor  of  the  mule. 

The  Indians  will  pack  a  cargo  comprising  camp  beds, 
cooking  utensils,  photograph  outfits,  provisions  and  all 
sorts  of  goods,  in  a  package  adapted  to  his  back,  in  a 
quiet  manner  that  cannot  be  equalled  by  the  noisy, 
swearing  mule  driver,  and  will  trot  off  cheerfully  under 
a  load  that  almost  conceals  them,  giving  an  appearance 
of  the  ants  that  carry  burdens  three  times  larger  than 
themselves. 

I  had  brought  with  me  thus  far  the  zinc  covered  box 
which  was  quite  full  of  goods  and  unwieldy,  weighing 
over  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  which  I  intended 
to  abandon  and  divide  the  contents  into  two  packages, 
but  at  the  urgent  remonstrance  of  the  Alcalde  and  the 
willingness  of  the  boss  Indian  to  *'tote"  it  I  consented 
to  take  it  as  far  as  it  would  go,  expecting  to  have  a 
break  down  and  a  division  of  load  any  day.  I  may  say 
at  the  start,  that  that  large  unwieldy  trunk  was 
carried  over  three  ranges  of  the  Andes  on  the  backs 
of  Indians  and  mules  and  deposited  in  the  hotel  in 
Lima  in  more  perfect  order  than  if  it  had  been  handled 
by  American  railroad  baggage  smashers  for  a  short 
day's  trip. 

From  the  start  to  the  finish  the  traveller  over  the 
Andes  must  depend  entirely  on  his  own  resources  for 
provisions  and  shelter  as  well  as  transportation.  There 
are  a  number  of  small  villages  en  route  at  which  sup- 


196  THE  LAND  OP  TO-MORROW 

plies  may  be  obtained,  but  even  these  are  usually  five 
to  ten  days  apart. 

On  the  established  eamino  or  trail,  there  are  occas- 
ionally houses  or  huts  known  as  *'tambos"  which  are 
intended  to  shelter  at  night  for  the  travellers  over  the 
eamino,  who  plan  their  journeys  to  reach  them  early 
in  the  evenings.  The  tambo  in  the  valleys  is  only  a 
thatched  roof  supported  by  bamboo  poles.  I  slept  in 
a  number  of  such  places,  but  if  I  were  making  the  trip 
again,  I'd  carry  along  a  small  well  oiled  dog  tent  or  as 
we  called  them  in  the  army  "pup  tent,"  used  only 
for  shelter. 

The  Indians  loaded  with  the  baggage  left  a  few  nours 
ahead  of  us,  leaving  one  to  act  as  guide.  Before  mak- 
ing our  adios  to  the  Alcalde's  family,  senorita 
presented  me  with  an  Indian  basket  in  which  she  had 
put  a  nicely  roasted  chicken,  with  some  of  the  water 
cress,  in  return  for  which  I  gave  her  a  red  silk  hand- 
kerchief and  a  mouth  organ,  the  latter  I  had  previously 
confiscated  from  the  Napo  interpreter  as  a  means  of 
relieving  myself  of  a  nuisance. 

The  Alcalde  accompanied  us  to  the  edge  of  the  vil- 
lage. As  I  walked  away  from  the  group  waving  their 
adios,  the  pang  of  parting  was  increased  hy  the  appre- 
hension that  my  white  trousers  might  have 
become  soiled,  which  is  one  reason  for  walking  back- 
wards while  we  shouted  adios. 

At  the  edge  of  the  village  we  reached  a  stream  of 
rushing  water  that  formed  our  first  obstacle.  Here 
the  Alcalde  embraced  me  at  parting  and  I  embraced  a 
big  Indian  by  getting  on  his  back  that  he  might  ferry 
me  over  the  stream.     The  interpreter  wanted  to  be 


STORM  ON  MOUNTAIN  TOP  197 

carried  too,  but  the  Chasutas  would  not  demean  them- 
selves by  carrying  a  Napo  of  Ecuador  and  he  had  to 
pull  off  his  shoes  and  apologies  for  trousers  and  wade 
to  the  Avaist  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  Chasutas  on 
both  banks. 

The  ascent  of  the  mountain  began  immediately. 
There  was  no  semblance  of  a  road ;  scarcely  a  pathway 
through  the  dense  growth  of  underbrush  and  rocks, 
through  which  our  guide  led.  At  several  places  we 
had  to  climb  up  rocky  precipices  assisted  by  the  hang- 
ing  ladders  made  from  the  vines  that  nature  seems  to 
provide  so  abundantly  at  the  right  places. 

After  the  several  days'  rest  at  Chasuta,  I  was  feeling 
quite  refreshed  and  rather  enjoyed  an  occasional  race 
with  our  guide  to  the  discomfiture  of  the  big  Napo 
who  could  not  keep  up,  but  came  along  behind  puflSng 
like  a  porpoise.  But  this  spurting  resulted  disastrously 
to  me.  After  several  hours  of  climbing,  when  near  the 
top  of  one  peak,  we  were  suddenly  enveloped  in  a 
drenching  rain,  from  which  I  was  compelled  to  seek 
shelter  under  the  broad  leaves  of  some  palms.  The 
exertion  in  that  altitude  and  heat  of  the  midday  sun 
had  warmed  me  up  and  the  cold  rain  which  I  was 
obliged  to  stand  and  take  like  a  cold  shower  bath  had 
the  effect  of  causing  a  severe  chill,  which  I  endeavored 
to  wear  off  by  rapid  running  down  the  other  side. 
Early  in  the  evening  we  were  compelled  to  take  shelter 
in  one  of  the  open  tambos  located  in  an  elevated  val- 
ley between  the  two  mountains,  which  our  pack  Indians 
had  reached  ahead  of  us  and  already  made  a  fire,  upon 
which  coffee  was  being  prepared.  I  sat  down  in  my 
wet  clothes  and  drank  coffee  and  devoured  the  best 


198  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

of  the  chicken  Adalina  had  given  wishing  that  I  were 
back  to  enjoy  a  comfortable  bed,  instead  of  having  to 
go  and  lie  down  wet  to  sleep  with  a  lot  of  bad 
smelling  Indians. 

A  squad  of  belated  Indians  coming  from  the  opposite 
direction  and  going  towards  Tarapota,  strayed  into 
the  tambo,  the  hospitalities  being  extended  to  them  by 
their  companions  of  our  outfit,  which  I  confess  I  did  not 
share  as  it  rather  crowded  our  accommodations.  I 
turned  in  early  in  order  to  become  dried  and  warmed 
under  blankets,  watching  the  different  moods  of  the 
Indians,  comprising  men,  women  and  children,  amongst 
whom  I  was  practically  alone,  flanked  on  one  side  by 
the  slumbering  embers  of  a  dying  fire,  and  on  the 
other  by  the  soundly  sleeping  and  snoring  Napo,  whose 
presence  the  Chasutas  did  not  like,  but  put  up  with 
on  account  of  the  white  faced  man. 

While  on  my  back  looking  upward  I  noticed  a  little 
loft  or  balcony  under  the  roof,  which  I  thought  might 
be  a  more  exclusive  berth  for  me,  but  I  abandoned  the 
idea,  after  our  guide  made  me  understand  that  this 
upper  berth  was  only  intended  for  solitary  travellers 
who  were  compelled  to  seek  its  seclusion  as  protection 
from  straying  tigers,  he  assuring  me  by  his  panto- 
mimic gestures  that  there  was  no  danger  to  be  appre- 
hended where  there  were  so  many  together,  I  gathered 
further  comfort  from  the  reflection  that  they  would 
have  to  take  the  interpreter  before  they  reached  my 
bunk. 

There  were  in  the  tambo  also  a  rubber  gatherer  and 
his  young  wife,  who  were  returning  to  the  interior  of 
Peru,  from  the  rubber  forests,  with  the  accumulation 


SLEEPING  IN  TAMBO  199 

of  their  labor,  in  silver  coin,  which  everybody  in  the 
tambo  knew  they  possessed  in  large  quantities,  the 
safety  of  which  was  unquestioned  in  these  wilds  with 
only  savages  for  companions,  and  to  whom  we  send 
missionaries. 

The  young  wife  was  quite  kind  to  me,  realizing  that 
I  should  suffer  from  the  exposure  and  chill.  She  was 
very  solicitous  about  my  condition,  offering  remedies 
from  her  supply,  the  use  of  which  she  no  doubt  learned 
from  her  season  in  the  rubber  swamps.  While  the  Napo 
slept  she  volunteered  to  rub  me  with  cachasa,  an  atten- 
tion which  it  is  not  considered  improper  for  a  married 
woman  to  extend  to  a  stranger,  who  requires  it. 

The  squaw  of  one  of  my  Indians  accompanied  our 
party,  carrying  on  her  back  a  large  basket  filled  with 
unique  pottery  they  make  in  Chasuta,  which  she  was 
taking  to  Tarapota  to  trade.  Though  her  load  was  as 
heavy  as  any  of  the  rest,  she  came  into  camp  briskly 
and  after  relieving  herself  of  the  burden,  at  once 
began  to  prepare  food  for  the  rest. 

After  dark  the  men,  women  and  children  turned  in 
together  literally  all  under  the  same  blanket,  the  sexes 
huddled  as  indiscriminately  as  animals.  A  young  girl 
of  five  or  six,  a  boy  of  seven  and  a  baby  were  under 
one  blanket  outside  of  the  tambo,  and  though  it  rained, 
their  rest  was  not  disturbed.  I  slept  very  little,  put- 
ting in  the  drearj'^  hours  meditating  on  the  future. 

In  the  early  morning  the  Indians  were  around, 
stretching  themselves,  rubbing  their  eyes  and  growl- 
ing, just  like  white  men,  poking  up  the  fire  with  their 
fingers  as  only  Indians  do,  the  women  prepare  coffee 
while  the  bucks  gather  up  the  packs  for  a  start. 


200  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

On  attempting  to  get  from  under  my  warm  blanket, 
I  was  painfully  reminded  of  one  of  my  several  war 
relics  I  carry  around  in  my  anatomy,  in  the  nature  of 
rheumatic  complaint  in  the  knee,  which  asserts  itself 
when  exposed  to  cold  and  dampness. 

My  limb  was  so  swollen  and  stiff  with  the  familiar  old 
trouble  that  I  could  scarcely  dress.  Hardly  able  to 
stand  and  realizing  the  danger  of  delay  in  such  sur- 
roundings I  made  a  feint  of  a  start  to  walk,  hoping  that, 
like  an  old  war  horse,  the  stiffened  joints  would  limber 
up  after  a  little  exercise.  I  limped  along  for  a  couple 
of  hours,  but  being  unable  to  bend  the  knee,  it  was  im- 
possible to  climb  over  the  rocky  places  that  were 
like  steps  and  in  encountering  an  obstruction  in  my 
path  I  was  unable  to  surmount  it,  but  compelled  to 
swing  my  leg  around.  My  persistence  excited  the  ad- 
miration of  the  Indians  and  the  sympathy  of  the 
squaws,  but  my  only  desire  was  to  get  out  of  the  woods. 
I  was  compelled  to  succumb,  and  accepted  the  challenge 
of  our  boss  Indian,  that  he  would  carry  me,  but  the 
Napo  must  take  his  load  into  town. 

I  climbed  on  the  willing  Indian's  back,  folding  my 
arms  across  his  breast,  while  he  grabbed  my  limbs, 
trotted  off  with  his  load,  his  body  leaning  forward  at  an 
angle  of  forty-five,  carrying  me  for  hours  without  a 
rest,  up  the  steep  hills  and  down  through  luxuriant 
valleys,  as  tenderly  as  a  papoose  on  a  squaw's  back. 

The  first  sight  of  the  beautiful  valley  as  seen  from 
the  back  of  a  bad  smelling  Indian,  stretching  like  a 
panorama  of  exquisite  freshness,  was  indeed  the  sight 
of  fields  elysian. 

At  noon  of  the  second  day  we  crossed  the  ''Aguesha" 


CARRIED  ON  INDIAN'S  BACK  201 

river,  a  clear  cool  stream  of  water  rushing  down  in 
torrents  from  the  mountains.  As  the  big  Indian 
waded  across  with  the  load,  I  could  not  help  but  think, 
Yankee  like,  that  there  was  power  enough  wasted  in 
the  fall  of  that  stream  to  operate  a  narrow  gauge 
electric  railway  across  the  mountain,  connecting  this 
wonderful  valley  with  the  world  by  uniting  the  thou- 
sands of  miles  of  river  navigation  with  the  interior, 
which  is  the  one  thing  needful  for  the  advancement 
of  that  locked-up  region.  There  is  not  only  power 
sufficient  in  these  rivers  to  operate  railways,  but  more 
than  enough  is  wasted  every  hour  to  run  acres  of 
machinery  to  manufacture  the  immense  products  of  the 
wonderful  valley. 

An  hour  later  we  reached  the  river  ''Hoocayack,'* 
which  is  as  near  as  I  could  get  the  phonetic  sound 
from  the  Indians,  the  red  water  from  which  flows  by 
the  edge  of  the  town  of  Tarapota.  The  big  Indian  with 
myself  on  his  back,  jumped  from  one  of  the  slippery 
stones  to  another  in  an  indifferent  way  that  was  cal- 
culated to  make  a  well  man  nervous,  but  we  got  over 
easier  than  the  lubberly  Napo  who  had  not  sand  to 
carry  his  own  bundle  over.  Climbing  the  steep  bank 
we  were  in  our  haven  of  rest,  Tarapota.  Going  at  once 
to  the  house  of  Don  Delgado,  the  father  of  Donna 
Maria,  of  Quillocaca,  from  whom  I  brought  letters,  we 
were  made  welcome.  A  convenient  room  was  found,  a 
hammock  hastily  strung  into  which  the  big  Indian 
placed  me  as  if  I  were  a  baby,  muttering  something  that 
I  knew  was  prompted  by  sympathy,  I  gave  him  my 
hand  and  a  present,  as  I  said  good  bye,  turning  to 


202 


THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 


seek  ease,  realizing  that  I  was  a  very  sick  man  in  a 
strange  land. 

The  officials  of  the  village  to  whose  care  I  had  been 
entrusted,  evidently  thought  the  stranger  was  going  to 
die  on  their  hands.  I  suffered  intensely  from  pains  of 
rheumatism  which  with  the  nervous  prostration  from 
over  exertion  and  my  rambling  talk  caused  them  to 
send  at  once  for  the  Padre,  who  is  also  the  village 


Sick  in  the  Tarapota  Hammock 

physician   that   ministers   alike   to   the   spiritual   and 
mortal  body. 

A  benevolent  faced  old  man  in  cassocks,  soon  ap- 
peared at  the  side  of  the  hammock  and  taking  the  hot 
hand  of  the  stranger  looked  up  as  he  muttered  a  prayer 
in  Latin,  which  I  interpreted  "Lord  receive  this  de- 
parting spirit.'^    His  gentle  manner  served  to  soothe 


PADRE  AND  PATRIARCH  203 

me,  as  he  spoke  in  Spanish  in  a  pleasant  and  encourag- 
ing tone,  all  the  while  feeling  my  pulse.  Turning  to 
a  patriarchal  looking  old  man  with  long  white  beard 
who  had  accompanied  him,  who  I  thought  was  a  friar 
or  monk,  they  discussed  or  consulted  in  an  undertone 
not  intended  for  me  to  hear,  but  that  I  knew  related 
to  my  condition. 

To  my  amazement  the  patriarchal  looking  monk, 
coming  closer  to  my  side,  addressed  me  in  English  in 
a  kind  and  fatherly  tone  that  by  its  sudden  familiarity 
dazed  me  for  a  moment  staring  about  wildly  as  if  just 
awakened  from  a  troubled  dream,  by  a  voice  I  recog- 
nized but  could  not  see  the  speaker. 

I  had  not  heard  my  own  tongue  spoken  except  in 
the  broken  English  of  the  interpreter  for  many  many 
days  and  weeks  rolling  into  months.  Upon  realizing 
the  situation,  I  was  so  delighted  that  I  attempted  to 
rise  that  I  could  embrace  him.  The  old  man  laid  me 
back  tenderly,  taking  my  hand  in  his  while  he  assured 
me  that  I  was  amongst  friends  and  would  be  cared  for. 

The  visit  had  a  most  salutary  effect,  seeming  to  bring 
to  mind  the  kindly  words  of  a  father  to  a  prodigal  son, 
whose  love  had  followed  to  the  under  side  of  the 
earth,  recalling  home,  the  weary  hearted,  wandering, 
tired  boy. 

After  some  inquiries  about  myself,  such  as  would  be 
addressed  to  a  dying  stranger,  this  old  man  feeble  and 
tremulous  with  age  told  me  his  name  was  '"Adolpho 
Page,"  the  son  of  an  Americano,  who  long  since  came 
to  Peru,  as  he  said  ''from  Columbus  in  Massachusetts 
or  Massachusetts  in  Ohio,  it  being  so  long  ago,  he  could 
not  remember  which." 


204  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOKROW 

Subsequently  he  told  me  something  of  his  own  sad 
life,  which  I  am  sure  may  interest  the  reader  someday, 
because  of  its  strange  truthfulness,  the  correct  names 
being  given,  it  is  quite  easy  to  investigate  the  facts. 
This  son  had  been  educated  in  England  and  subse- 
quently became  the  Minister  from  Peru  to  the  Argen- 
tines, living  in  the  gay  society  of  Buenos  Ayres,  but  for 
some  years  had  exiled  himself  in  this  inaccessible  and 
beautiful  valley,  where  he  had  earned  the  love  and 
respect  of  all  the  people  by  his  kindly  and  generous 
disposition,  being  the  right  hand  man  of  the  Padre  in 
all  missionary  work. 

While  chatting  with  the  old  patriarch,  the  Padre 
had  sent  for  some  old  woman  to  whom  he  gave  direc- 
tions about  myself.  I  was  required  to  take  a  medicine 
which  the  Padre  ordered  the  woman  to  prepare.  Though 
there  are  oio  drug  shops  in  that  part  of  the  land  of  to- 
morrow, all  out"  of  doors  is  in  a  sense,  a  great  apothe- 
cary's garden,  where  prescriptions  may  be  filled  from 
the  best  of  the  materia  medica,  ingredients  .gathered 
fresh  from  the  leaves  and  roots  of  the  forest. 

The  old  Jesuit  missionaries  obtained  from  the  Indian 
medicine  men  during  the  centuries  they  have  been  among 
them  the  secrets  of  the  natives'  same  wonderful  reme- 
dies, which  the  present  Padres  practice  and  preserve. 
The  principal  article  or  that  which  we  hear  most  about 
is  ''cinchona,"  the  plant  from  which  Peruvian  bark 
is  obtained  from  which  quinine  is  made,  known  all  over 
the  world  as  the  remedy  for  malaria.  There  are  other 
wonderful  remedies  which  we  do  not  perhaps  give 
proper  credit  to  the  forests  of  the  land  of  to-morrow 
for  producing,  in  addition  to  the  balsams,  sarsaparilla, 


CHU-CHU-WASSA  CURE  205 

copaiba,  coco,  from  which  cocaine  is  produced.  In  this 
case  the  treatment  was  for  inflammatory  rheumatism, 
the  details  of  which  I  give  without  any  expectation  of 
return,  but  simply  in  acknowledgment  of  the  benefit 
afforded  to  myself,  with  perhaps  the  effect  of  saving 
my  life. 

The  Padre  ordered  the  woman  to  go  to  the  adjacent 
forest  to  collect  some  of  the  bark  of  a  certain  tree,  the 
name  of  which  I  did  not  record  but  the  bark  is  generally 
known  as  ''chu-chu-wassa"  as  it  is  spelled  and  pro- 
nounced, being  recognized  as  an  article  of  commerce 
in  the  villages.  I  could  not  obtain  any  definition  of  the 
name,  but  I  found  that  every  place  I  went  from 
Atlantic  to  Pacific,  chu-chu-wassa  was  known  and  val- 
ued as  highly  as  the  **Quinia-quinia"  or  bark  of  barks. 

The  attendants  peeled  the  inner  bark  off  in  strips  or 
chips,  which  were  put  into  the  pure  rum  of  the  sugar 
cane  in  proper  quantities  to  secure  a  strong  solution. 
In  that  land  where  rum  and  bark  are  so  plentiful,  no 
provision  is  made  for  extracting  by  pressure,  it  is 
sufficient  for  their  needs  to  have  the  rum  reach  a  deep 
red  color. 

This  is  taken  in  gulps  or  swallows  of  a  gill  as  often 
as  the  patient  desires,  but  his  wants  are  not  urgent  as 
it  is  about  as  bitter  a  dose  as  can  be  concocted.  As 
a  regular  morning  toddy  or  bitters  chu-chu-wassa 
would  delight  an  old  toper,  and  I  imagine  cause  a 
cowboy  to  jump  four  feet  high,  clap  his  heels  and 
yell  with  delight. 

Further  on  I  was  compelled  to  take  the  ''Andes  cock- 
tail'* in  the  early  morning  as  a  preventive  of  fevers, 
which  is  composed  of  quinine  bark  in  gin,  considered 


206  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

hard  to  take  as  it  is  both  bitter  and  nasty,  but  the 
chu-chu-wassa  has  a  bitter  taste  peculiarly  its  own 
and  once  tasted  is  never  forgotten.  Any  one  who  sips 
the  Indian  rheumatic  cure  has  drained  their  cup  of 
bitterness  to  the  bitter  dregs,  but  they  are  surely 
relieved  of  the  rheumatism.  I  drank  deeply  of  the 
stuff  in  a  reckless  way  to  get  relief  from  pain.  I  told 
the  Padre  the  rum  went  to  my  head  and  the  red  stuff 
to  my  feet,  and  certainly  reached  the  right  spot. 

I  was  cured  of  the  inflammatory  rheumatism  so 
quickly  as  to  be  surprised,  and  in  a  short  time  so  thor- 
oughly built  up  that  I  was  ready  to  proceed  with  the 
journey  before  the  Padre  thought  advisable.  The  rem- 
edy is  also  a  tonic,  while  the  leaves  are  used  as  poul- 
tices or  applications  for  sores  caused  by  poison  vines  or 
bites  of  snakes. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

^  N  official  passport  is  not  at  all  a  neces- 
sity; a  stranger  may  travel  in  perfect 
security  throughout  the  land  of  to- 
morrow even  as  a  tramp,  without  a 
letter  and  be  well  treated  everywhere. 
A  simple  letter  of  introduction,  how- 
ever, written  on  a  large  sheet  of  stiff 
paper,  with  display  letter  head  and  a  red  seal  at  the 
bottom  addressed  to  an  official,  will  secure  more  con- 
sideration than  a  letter  of  credit,  or  a  treasury  bond, 
a  statement  of  fact  that  is  not  as  much  a  reflection 
upon  these  people  as  on  our  civilization.  It  is  not  to  be 
inferred,  however,  that  the  people  do  not  want  money. 
They  all  do,  but  the  business  part  of  a  visit  is  alwaj^s  an 
after  consideration,  settled  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
guest. 

I  had  been  well  supplied  with  letters  which  a  number 
of  Spanish  friends  along  the  route  volunteered  to  give 
me  to  others  at  the  next  stop.  These  became  so  numer- 
ous that  the  little  hand  grip  I  carried  for  toilet  articles, 
became  a  mail  bag.  On  arrival  at  a  stopping  place  I 
simply  handed  over  my  bag  of  mail  for  the  officials  to 
pick  out  their  own.  As  they  handled  some  fat  letters 
addressed  to  officials  in  Lima,  the  mail  bag  became  of 
itself  a  strong  endorsement. 

Amongst  my  mail  for  Tarapota  was  a  letter  addressed 
to  a  young  business  man  or  planter  in  the  nature  of  a 
letter  of  credit,  or  an  order  from  his  correspondent  in 

207 


208  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Yurrimaguas  to  supply  me  with  mules  and  provisions 
to  continue  the  journey.  I  thought  this  the  most  im- 
portant of  the  lot,  but  so  little  attention  was  paid  to  it 
by  the  recipient  that  I  thought  my  endorser  was  dis- 
credited. 

The  principal  obstacle  to  travel,  the  hustler  will  en- 
counter, is  not  the  bad  trails  or  lack  of  facilities  but  the 
apparent  indifference  towards  matters  that  we  may 
consider  pressing  business.  The  officials  retain  the  old 
Spanish  feeling  of  dignity,  which  is  always  coupled 
with  kindly  courtesy,  and  the  natives  have  learned  the 
lesson  by  contact  and  are  never  in  a  hurry  about  any- 
thing, absolutely  never.  It  is  a  delicate  matter  to  press 
the  officials  and  maybe  dangerous  to  crowd  the  Indians. 

I  had  intended  going  through  Tarapota  in  a  day  but 
the  illness  disconcerted  my  plans.  When  able  to  walk 
about  the  town  I  felt  it  was  time  to  move  on  to  the 
next  stop,  at  Lamas,  a  day's  ride,  and  gave  the  neces- 
sary order  for  the  Napo  to  interpret.  But  the  Napo 
had  the  Spanish  laziness  and  the  native  stupidity,  and 
during  my  illness  was  having  a  good  time,  posing  as 
an  ''interpreter"  amongst  the  other  Indians  and  was 
in  no  hurry  to  leave.  I  learned  also  that  the  officials 
had  concluded  that  my  illness  would  result  in  my 
abandoning  the  trip  over  the  Andes,  in  this  they 
reckoned  without  their  host. 

In  order  to  add  to  his  own  dignity  and  importance, 
the  Napo  abused  the  privileges  given  him  as  interpreter, 
by  exaggerating  to  the  natives  the  position  of  the 
''Americano."  I  had  no  means  of  knowing  the  nature 
of  the  yarns  he  told  in  his  Indian  dialect,  but  I  could 
see  from  the  curiosity  and  actions  of  the  Indians  and 


LETTERS  OF  RECOMMENDATION  209 

his  behavior  toward  them  that  I  was  being  represented 
as  a  character  entitled  to  as  much  consideration  as  the 
President.  There  was  certainly  a  different  bearing 
when  we  were  together  in  the  company  of  those  to 
whom  I  was  able  to  make  myself  understood. 

The  Indians  do  not  often  speak  Spanish,  each  tribe 
using  a  separate  dialect,  but  all  seem  to  know  the 
Indian  universal  tongue  called  the  ''Keecha"  as  it 
is  pronounced,  but  sometimes  spelled  **Quincha," 
learned  from  the  Inca,  to  which  I  have  referred  and 
may  have  occasion  to  mention  again  as  we  reach  the 
land  of  the  Inca.  Though  the  Spaniards  conquered  and 
made  Christians  of  them,  he  has  failed  to  make  Span- 
iards of  them. 

Tarapota  may  be  described  as  representing  in  reality 
one  of  those  hidden  valleys  of  rare  loveliness  that  one 
sometimes  reads  about  in  the  novels  as  the  abode  of  the 
fanciful  characters  depicted  by  romantic  writers.  It 
is  only  one  of  the  many  beautiful  valleys  that  may  be 
found  in  the  Land  of  To-Morrow.  The  traveller 
wearied  and  sore  from  the  tiresome  toiling  over  the 
mountains,  who  may  be  carried  into  its  restful  shades, 
as  I  was,  would  be  excused  for  imagining  that  this 
region,  near  the  centre  of  the  earth  may  have  been  part 
of  the  original  Garden  of  Eden. 

The  valleys  are  doubly  secluded,  in  the  sense  that 
they  are  in  the  very  heart  of  the  South  American  con- 
tinent, being  hemmed  in  from  the  outside  world  by 
immense  mountain  barriers  rising  on  all  sides  like 
rugged,  precipitous  stone  walls,  covered  by  a  prickly 
cacti  hedge,  forming  natural  obstacles  that  may  only  be 


210  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

overcome  by  perilous  climbing  or  the  creeping  around 
and  cutting  a  path  through  the  bush. 

The  valley  immediately  around  Tarapota  in  outline 
is  crescent  shaped,  probably  three  leagues  across  and 
in  length  as  far  as  the  eye  reaches,  toward  Moyabamba 
valley.  On  either  side  are  the  mountains,  spurs  of  the 
Andes,  known  as  the  ''Cordilleras"  or  foot  hills,  their 
sides  covered  with  the  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  tropics. 
Through  the  valley  the  beautiful  Mayo  river  flows 
toward  theHuallagua  by  a  long  tortuous  course  through 
mountain  gorges,  and  rapids  almost  impassible  for 
even  a  Chasuta  canoeist  to  navigate  in  safety.  Few 
go  down  and  none  attempt  to  ascend  the  rapids.  The 
Mayo  receives  a  number  of  smaller  streams  from  the 
mountains  of  clear  cold  water,  tumbling  down  over  the 
rocks  in  sufficient  volume  to  drive  machinery  to  con- 
sume the  innumerable  products  of  the  rich  soil. 

While  I  cannot  give  the  exact  altitude,  in  figures,  it 
will  probably  be  sufficient  to  explain  that  it  is  the 
first  step  or  terrace  up  into  the  garden  of  the  Gods  as 
it  were,  that  are  formed  by  the  many  valleys  of  the 
Equator  where  everything  grows  in  luxurious  abun- 
dance. The  last  or  highest  step  into  valleys  beyond 
reaching  an  elevation  of  two  to  four  miles  and  above 
the  line  of  vegetation,  where  the  only  animal  life  that 
exists  is  that  of  the  solitary  condor.  The  reader  will 
note  that  though  the  narrative  practically  follows  the 
line  of  the  Equator  westward,  the  changing  altitudes 
(since  leaving  the  rivers)  gives  the  varying  climates  of 
the  necessarily  widely  separated  sections  of  our  land. 
It  is  possible  to  find  three  or  four  climates  in  these 
Equatorial  valleys  and  mountains  all  within  the  same 


LATITUDE  AND  ALTITUDE  211 

latitude  and  longitude  the  deep  valleys  blooming 
eternally  with  the  rich  growth  of  the  tropics,  while  the 
table  lands  near  the  base  of  the  mountains  approach 
our  temperate  zone,  reaching  to  the  limit  of  vegeta- 
tion and  over  all  the  snow-capped  peaks.  There  are 
no  uncertain  changes  in  climate  in  this  latitude  from 
day  to  day  or  month  to  month,  all  the  days  being  alike 
near  the  Equator. 

In  the  rich  soil  of  Tarapota  pine  apples  grow  wild.  I 
have  seen  them  in  the  cultivated  gardens  of  the  natives 
reaching  ten  pounds  in  weight  and  have  heard  of  them 
weighing  twenty  pounds.  When  allowed  to  ripen  on 
the  plant,  they  furnish  a  fruit  that  for  luciousness  may 
not  be  equalled  anywhere  else  on  the  earth's  surface. 
They  become  mellow  and  rich  and  are  eaten  with  a 
wooden  spoon  or  cut  in  two  and  held  to  the  mouth 
while  the  juice  is  pressed  out  furnishing  a  delicious 
drink  of  cool  nectar  fit  for  the  gods. 

It  is  not  only  famous  for  the  pine  apples,  or  *'pee- 
neys,''  as  they  are  called,  but  every  miserable  mud 
hovel  may  be  surrounded  by  groves  of  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  the  delightful  fragrance  from  which  serves 
to  make  life  endurable,  even  in  an  Indian  village,  and 
that  is  saying  a  good  deal  for  the  climate. 

Tobacco  of  a  very  strong  quality  and  fine  flavor  is 
grown  in  Tarapota  and  if  cultivated  might  excel  in 
reputation  that  from  certain  districts  of  Cuba.  They 
have  a  peculiar  way  of  preparing  tobacco  for  market 
by  wrapping  the  natural  leaf  tightly  with  split  bamboo 
similar  to  the  withes  we  see  tea  boxes  wrapped  with. 
These  take  the  form  of  cigars  four,  five  or  six  feet  long 
and  about  three  inches  in  circumference,  a  form  that 


212  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

seems  to  preserve  the  weed  and  make  it  handy  for 
market,  the  tobacco  being  sold  by  the  foot  or  yard. 

Cotton  grows  wild  all  the  year  round,  the  plants  be- 
coming young  trees  upon  which  the  young  Indians 
climb  to  pick  the  boll  which  the  women  spin  and 
weave  into  a  coarse  cloth  used  for  clothing. 

Practically  everything  may  be  grown  on  one  farm 
or  hacinda  of  this  wonderful  valley,  fruits  of  the  tropics 
in  the  valley,  cotton  and  sugar  and  tobacco  on  the  low 
lands  as  also  coffee,  with  potatoes,  corn  and  wheat  on 
the  foot  hills  of  the  mountains,  while  the  everlasting 
snow-capped  peaks  supply  cold  water,  and  if  desired 
cold  storage  and  power  from  the  overflow  to  make  use 
of  products  that  cannot  be  consumed. 

Yet  practically  nothing  is  cultivated  except  the  few 
articles  necessary  to  sustain  the  straggling  natives. 
Though  they  could  raise  in  this  valley  sufficient  to  sup- 
ply the  lower  Amazon  with  bread  stuffs  as  well  as  mut- 
ton and  beef,  it  is  not  attempted  because  of  the  inac- 
cessibility and  difficulty  of  getting  over  the  mountains 
to  the  river,  a  day's  portage  to  reach  navigation  and 
the  market  beyond. 

There  is  sufficient  water  power  wasted  every  hour,  in 
the  numerous  mountain  torrents,  to  generate  electricity 
sufficient  to  operate  double  track  systems  of  narrow 
gauge  railways  to  carry  all  produce  to  navigation  in 
a  Couple  of  hours. 

The  town  of  Tarappta  is  a  dilapidated,  deserted 
village  nearly  all  the  available  male  population  having 
gone  to  the  rubber  forests  where  they  find  profitable 
employment  for  a  few  months,  abandoning  their  health- 
ful homes  because  of  the  temptation  offered  for  making 


CAUCHO  VS.  RUBBER  213 

a  little  money  rapidly  in  the  iinhealthful  rubber 
swamps.  They  are  generally  disappointed  in  the 
realization  of  their  hopes,  though  the  earnings  are  con- 
siderable they  are  induced  to  part  with  it  readily  for 
cachasa  or  rum.  Instead  of  sudden  wealth  and  inde- 
pendence, they  become  the  slaves  of  the  traders  by 
reason  of  their  debts  brought  on  by  riotous  living. 
Many  of  them  perish  from  the  fevers  always  prevailing 
in  the  low  lands,  which  are  fatal  to  the  native  who 
comes  down  from  his  mountain  home. 

There  has  probably  been  an  army  of  five  thousand  of 
the  bone  and  sinew,  of  the  young  men  out  of  this 
vicinity  of  the  valley  of  Tarapota  alone  who  have  gone 
to  the  forests,  armed  with  their  matchettes,  becoming 
enemies  of  their  country,  ruthless  invaders  and  de- 
stroyers of  the  caucho  tree  of  Peruvian  forests. 

The  caucho,  though  a  species  of  the  rubber,  is 
different  from  that  which  is  found  on  the  lower  part 
of  the  rivers,  known  as  Para  or  Hevea,  which  is  more 
gregarious  in  habit  usually  found  in  groups  enabling 
the  gatherer  to  collect  the  milk  at  certain  seasons.  The 
Brazilian  gatherers  pursue  a  method  which  does  not 
destroy  the  rubber  tree.  The  Peruvian  native  treats 
alike  the  rubber  and  the  caucho. 

The  caucho  being  widely  separated  in  the  forest,  the 
trees  when  found  are  felled,  from  the  bleeding  trunk 
of  which  its  blood  or  milk  is  drained  into  pools  in  the 
earth  prepared  for  it,  where  it  is  allowed  to  coagulate 
by  evaporation,  or  it  may  be  facilitated  by  adding  alum 
or  common  soap,  which  makes  a  vile  smelling  compound 
worth  about  fifty  cents  which  represents  the  value 
of  a  tree.    There  is  a  refuse  or  dripping  mixed  with  an 


214  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

earth,  leaves  or  other  foreign  matter  that  is  called  Sern- 
amby  (pronounced  "Surnam-bee")  which  is  a  third 
grade  of  rubber.  There  is  a  sernamby  of  both  rubber 
and  caucho.  Crude  caucho  is  formed  in  slabs  resem- 
bling in  appearance  thick  black  hides  from  which  the 
fur  has  been  taken.  Sernamby  is  usually  in  the  shape 
of  strippings  formed  by  the  gutters  or  channels  carry- 
ing the  milk  from  the  tree  to  the  pools. 

The  Peruvian  government  which  is  paternal  in  its 
character,  claiming  to  exercise  authority  over  the  in- 
dividual in  all  relations  of  life  has  been  singularly 
remiss  in  its  want  of  care  and  foresight  in  permitting 
the  destruction  of  caucho,  which  was  one  source  of 
future  wealth,  by  these  armies  of  half  breeds  who  go 
into  the  forests,  leaving  their  old  men  and  women  at 
home  to  cultivate  a  poison  to  destroy  another  great 
source  of  wealth  in  the  supply  of  fish  foods. 

As  this  subject  was  fully  outlined  in  Consular  reports 
and  personally  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  Peruvian 
authorities,  it  is  perhaps  unnecessary  to  burden  the 
narrative  with  it. 

In  a  romantic  vein,  I  would  say  to  any  enquiring 
friend  as  to  the  opportunities  for  immigration  or  the 
inauguration  of  business  enterprises,  that  in  extensive 
travel  all  over  South  America,  I  have  not  seen  a  more 
inviting  field  than  is  afforded  in  the  delightful  valleys 
of  the  upper  Amazon  provided  always  that  the  emi- 
grant makes  up  his  mind  to  be  content  with  practical 
isolation  from  the  world.  Being  hemmed  in  the  in- 
terior by  three  ranges  of  the  Andes  on  one  side  and 
five  thousand  m'iles  of  Amazonian  forests  on  the  other, 
is  worse  than  being  isolated  on  an  island  of  the  Pacific. 


EXPLOITING  OF  FORESTS 


Caucho  Gatherers  in  Peru. 


216  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

A  party  of  young  farmers  and  meclianics  might  fol- 
low the  route  of  this  narrative  and  if  well  provided  with 
implements  and  energy,  take  up  large  tracts  of  land, 
which  may  be  had  for  the  asking,  upon  which  they 
could  live  comfortably  in  a  glorious  climate  while 
awaiting  the  development  of  the  land  of  to-morrow, 
which  must  come. 

I  might  add  parenthetically,  that  American  boys — 
blondes  preferred — if  possessed  of  blue  eyes  and  a 
vigorous  constitution,  will  have  no  difficulty  in  finding 
helpmates  from  among  the  many  beautiful  senoritas 
who  have  been  left  alone  in  that  paradise  by  reason  of 
the  exodus  of  the  male  population  to  the  rubber  forests. 
(It  will  be  noticed  I  do  not  recommend  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  to  stop  in  the  rubber  forests.) 

There  are  senoritas  and  senoritas,  even  in  that  out 
of  the  way  region,  and  the  American  accustomed  to 
good  society  at  home  might  be  surprised  to  find  some 
families  in  this  remote  land  who  are  quite  exclusive 
and  aristocratic  in  bearing  and  as  exacting  in  their 
intercourse  as  are  some  of  our  own  people  who  probably 
have  not  as  much  to  stand  on. 

The  settler  need  not  be  a  pioneer  woodsman  com- 
pelled to  fell  trees,  he  will  find  miles  upon  miles  of  the 
richest  pampa  or  prairie  soil  in  the  valleys  waiting  for 
the  agricultural  machinery  to  replace  the  ridiculously 
crude  implements  of  the  natives,  which  have  been  used 
for  centuries  to  good  advantage,  but  the  increase  would 
be  doubled  by  modern  appliance  with  the  expenditure 
of  less  labor. 

There  are  no  frosts,  no  droughts,  no  grasshopper  and 
other  insect  plagues  at  that  altitude,  and  no  uncertainty 


AGRICULTURAL  POSSIBILITIES  217 

as  to  returns,  because  there  are  two  and  sometimes  three 
crops  in  a  year.  The  settler  will  grow  his  own  corn 
and  potatoes  and  while  resting  from  his  daily  toil,  he 
may  literally,  smoke  in  his  pipe  of  peace,  his  own 
tobacco,  and  sip  delicious  coffee  made  fresh  from  the 
berries  grown  on  the  plants  in  his  own  yard.  Or  if 
he  prefers,  his  dark-eyed  senorita  will  serve  her  lord 
with  a  cup  of  the  richest  cocoa  grown  on  his  own  land, 
and  sweetened  with  sugar  crystalized  from  the  cane 
which  grows  so  wildly  abundant,  that  it  is  not  culti- 
vated or  gathered  except  for  the  manufacture  of  the 
pure  rum  of  the  country. 

Milk,  which  does  not  seem  to  be  used  much  in  those 
lands,  may  be  obtained  from  the  herds  of  goats,  or 
cows  could  be  bred  for  milk,  as  with  us. 

There  are  disadvantages,  aside  from  isolation,  that 
are  in  a  way  as  great  obstacles  to  American  colonization 
and  as  difficult  to  overcome  as  are  the  mountains 
themselves. 

The  Peruvian  government  is  most  liberal  in  its  con- 
cessions or  grants  of  land  and  homes  to  actual  set- 
tlers from  all  countries,  Americans  being  especially 
welcomed,  ostensibly,  without  regard  to  race,  color  or 
creed.  Yet  it  would  be  impolitic  to  attempt  to  locate 
anywhere  in  that  country,  a  class  of  people  who  desired 
to  be  recognized  as  antagonistic  to  the  established 
religion  of  that  country,  which  is  that  of  the  Roman 
Catholic.  Neither  should  foreigners  go  there,  and 
insist  upon  the  natives  adopting  their  manners  and  cus- 
toms, nor  to  criticize  and  reverse  conditions  that  have 
existed  for  the  centuries.  Substantially  the  church  and 
the  state  are  one  and  the  same  in  Peru.    As  the  exis- 


218  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

tence  of  each  depends  upon  the  other,  they  may  ue 
relied  upon  to  stand  firmly  together,  not  only  in  Peru, 
but  in  all  that  land.  The  state  officials  are  not  at  all 
zealous  in  defence  of  their  church,  in  fact  I  do  not  recall 
overhearing  an  official  express  an  opinion  on  the  sub- 
ject, beyond  an  admission  of  his  Catholicism,  when 
questioned. 

The  Padres  or  priests  are  seldom  bigoted  but  as  a 
rule  are  most  courteous  to  travellers  offering  without 
question  the  hospitalities  of  their  houses,  and  as  they 
are  of  the  best  and  well  stocked  for  good  living,  I  made 
it  a  point  to  look  up  the  Padre  at  every  stopping  place. 
The  masses  of  some  of  the  interior  villages  are  fanat- 
ical and  disposed  to  excesses  but  are  easily  controlled 
by  the  Padres. 

It  should  not  b6  inferred  that  one  reared  a  Protestant 
is  inclined  to  eulogize  the  Catholic  religion,  especially 
the  practice  as  I  have  seen  it  in  the  lives  of  some  of  the 
priests  of  those  countries,  but,  as  a  disinterested  journ- 
alist, who  has  enjoyed  their  hospitality  and  lived  safely 
amongst  these  once  savage  cannibal  Indians,  I  am  glad 
of  an  opportunity  to  record  my  testimony  to  the  facts, 
that  to  the  missionary  efforts  of  these  Padres,  during 
the  centuries,  has  resulted  in  the  redeeming  of  this 
beautiful  land  and  the  people  from  barbarism  to  a  con- 
dition of  civilization  which  may  be  incomplete  but  in 
many  respects  equals  that  of  our  own  boasted  civiliza- 
tion. 

In  discussions  of  this  subject,  I  have  frequently  been 
reminded  by  friends,  that  the  teachings  of  the  Catholic 
church  does  not  develop  or  advance  a  country  remain- 
ing under  its  influence ;  perhaps  this  is  more  largely  a 


IMMIGRATION  219 

question  of  latitude  or  climate  and  of  previous  race  con- 
ditions, than  of  religious  influence.  The  Spanish  peo- 
ple will  answer  that  if  the  Anglo-Saxon  had  occupied 
this  southern  continent  and  they  the  north  the  condi- 
tions would  be  in  their  favor,  they  claim  that  we  do  not 
give  our  superior  climate  the  proper  credit  for  its  influ- 
ence on  our  lives.  These  people  claim  that  they  have  done 
better  for  the  Indians  of  this  continent  than  we  have ; 
that  they  were  not  killed  off  to  make  room  for  our  ad- 
vancing civilization.  They  say  the  Jesuits  did  not 
kill,  but  through  centuries  of  patient  self  sacrificing 
toil,  unassisted  by  home  missionary  societies,  they  have 
labored  successfully  and  disinterestedly  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  Indians.  Under  the  circumstances, 
liberal  Christians  of  other  sects,  can  scarcely  censure 
these  people  for  protesting  against  the  importing  of 
over-zealous  missionaries  who  tell  the  Indian  that  their 
previous  religious  training  has  been  false. 

During  my  illness  I  was  visited  by  a  number  of  the 
good  people  of  the  village.  In  looking  over  my  note- 
book, which  I  sometimes  used  as  an  autograph  album, 
I  find  among  the  names  inscribed  that  of  the  good  old 
curate  or  the  Padre  of  Tarapota,  Avho  was  also  the 
kind  physician  to  minister  to  the  body,  in  clear  char- 
acters remarkably  Avell  done  for  his  great  age,  Jose 
Eusobie  Cuipal,  Cura  de  Tarapota,  and  also  that  of  a 
colleague  from  a  neighboring  village,  whom  he  brought 
in  to  see  the  sick  Americano,  Amadeo  Chumbo,  Cura, 
Pachiza. 

A  frequent  caller  was  the  sub-Prefect  of  the  district, 
middle  aged  Spanish  Don,  well  posted  on  the  doings  of 
the  outside  world  whom  I  found  most  congenial.    He 


220  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

supplied  me  with  a  good  bit  of  valuable  information 
about  the  mineral  wealth  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 
But  this  not  being  in  sight,  like  the  natural  products 
of  the  forests  and  the  agricultural  possibilities,  I  can 
only  recite  the  testimony  of  these  gentlemen  of  repute, 
who  insist  that  the  gold  and  copper  ores,  which  they 
exhibited,  are  more  valuable  than  can  be  estimated, 
and  the  location  possesses  the  advantage  of  being  easily 
accessible  with  good  natural  drainage  and  abundant 
water  power  to  operate.  It  is  certainly  an  extra 
bonanza  to  find  gold  in  a  country  that  supplies  every- 
thing else  that  is  needed  to  make  life  happy.  I  record 
the  sub-Prefect's  note  from  my  note  book,  in  his  own 
hand  writing,  referring  to  the  location : ' '  Sinami  Pampa 
situada  ol  Cerro  de  Santa  Domingo."  Also  the  names 
and  addresses  of  two  Spanish  miners,  in  their  own 
writing  namely,  Elias  Linares  and  Luis  Felipe  Del 
Castello  Cerro  de  Francona. 

During  the  pleasant  evenings,  while  recuperating,  it 
was  my  habit  to  sit  on  a  bench  outside  of  my  door,  with 
note  book  in  hand  at  times,  or  a  pad  of  paper  whiling 
away  the  tedious  waiting  hours  writing  out  matters 
just  as  they  occurred,  which  are  reproduced  in  this 
narrative  in  the  same  spirit  in  which  they  were  set 
down  at  the  time. 

The  Indians  were  always  curious  about  my  writing 
and  frequently  came  close  enough  to  look  at  the  pencil 
marks;  to  amuse  them  I  would  make  rough  sketches, 
which  they  could  understand  well  enough  to  laugh. 
They  called. me  ''The  white  man  who  talks  with  his 
liands."     They  could  not  be  made  to  comprehend  how 


TALKING  BY  A  BOOK  221 

it  was  possible  for  any  one  to  read  out  loud  what  I 
would  put  on  paper. 

The  Napo  afforded  me  a  good  bit  of  amusement  by 
his  absurd  attempts  at  imitating  the  Americano.  When 
I  would  take  a  seat  on  the  bench  to  fill  up  my  journal, 
he  would  squat  on  the  ground  on  the  other  side  of  the 
doorway,  with  a  piece  of  soiled  paper  and  a  pencil,  he 
begged  from  me,  which  he  kept  most  of  the  time 
between  his  lips  wetting  it  so  it  would  make  a  blacker 
mark  on  his  paper.  He  could  not  form  a  letter  but  he 
made  the  Indians  think  he  could.  It  afforded  me  lots 
of  fun  to  see  him  scratch  his  head,  look  wise  at  the 
gaping  Indians  standing  around  and  with  a  sigh  as  if 
something  was  hurting  him,  begin  to  make  pot  hooks 
on  the  paper. 

I  humored  his  conceit  by  pretending  that  he  should 
keep  an  account  of  the  change  he  got  to  buy  supplies, 
from  which  I  think  he  was  making  enough  percent  to 
buy  his  rum  besides. 

He  could  not  make  the  figures,  but  had  a  system  of 
markings  that  I  think  lied  as  easily  as  himself.  It  will 
seem  incredible  to  even  a  small  school  boy  or  girl  that 
a  big  Indian,  man  in  statue  and  strength  cannot  count 
beyond  five.  They  all  do  their  transactions  in  copper 
coins  of  one  cent  denomination,  and  it  sometimes 
requires  a  shopkeeper  to  use  barrels  for  money  drawers. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

ECOMING  impatient  at  the  indifference 
shown  about  preparations  for  continu- 
ing the  journey,  I  ventured  to  intimate 
to  the  young  business  man,  to  whom  I 
was  endorsed  for  an  outfit,  that  I 
wanted  to  go  forward,  to  which  he 
replied  smilingly,  ''Oh,  no,  no,  senor, 
we  cannot  allow  you  to  leave  us  for 
some  weeks  yet. ' '  To  my  look  of  surprise  he  continued, 
*'You  must  first  ride  with  me  over  the  valley,  as  there 
are  many  people  who  desire  to  see  the  Americano." 
I  protested  and  insisted  that  I  must  go  west,  he  bowed 
himself  off,  jumped  on  his  pony,  leaving  me  standing 
there  in  distressing  uncertainty.  His  neglect  of  busi- 
ness was  explained  by  the  sub-Prefect,  as  resulting  from 
his  being  in  love  with  the  prettiest  and  richest  senorita 
in  the  valley.  He  closed  his  shop  every  morning, 
riding  off  to  visit  the  lady,  returning  late  at  night. 

The  Napo  also  confided  to  me  the  gossip  that  the 
people  would  like  to  have  me  remain  among  them 
indefinitely,  intimating  that  I  could  have  a  choice  of 
senoritas,  which  I  think  was  a  lie,  in  his  own  interest. 
The  Padre  and  other  friends  thought  I  might  not  be 
able  to  stand  the  hardships  of  the  trip  until  I  should 
recuperate,  and  some  of  the  friends  thought  it  would 
be  better  for  me  to  return  from  that  point  to  the 
Amazon.  These  contingencies  did  not  occur  to  me,  I 
concluded  that  neither  a  love-sick  Don,  or  a  genuinely 

222 


ENFORCED  HOSPITALITY  223 

sick  American,  should  deter  me  from  going  forward,  as 
intended. 

On  making  known  to  the  sub-Prefect  my  determina- 
tion and  the  business  delays,  he  at  once  arranged  for 
my  departure,  the  experience  proving  the  statement 
made  previously,  that  it  is  always  best  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  progress  with  an  official  duly  authorized.  Any 
plans  looking  to  dependence  upon  private  contracts 
with  individuals  however  reliable  in  themselves,  are 
almost  sure  to  cause  trouble  and  embarrassment.  Con- 
tracts of  every  kind  should  have  the  approval  of  an 
official. 

It  happened  that  the  sub-Prefect's  Indians,  of  the 
Tarapota  tribe,  were  at  the  time  **in  festa,"  that  means 
they  were  celebrating  one  of  the  numerous  ** feasts" 
known  as  San  Christoval.  On  these  occasions  all  take 
part.  The  women  for  days  in  advance  occupy  their 
time  in  preparations,  especially  in  making  the  curious 
cakes  that  are  baked  in  queer  ovens,  located  in  palm 
tree  groves,  where  they  assemble  to  do  this  work.  For 
the  week  or  during  these  ''festas"  it  is  out  of  the 
question  to  get  one  of  the  tribe  to  do  any  work.  The 
Peruvian  officials  wisely  avoid  interfering  with  these 
customs,  making  no  attempt  to  coerce,  but  rather 
humor  the  practices. 

It  became  necessary,  therefore,  for  the  Prefect  of 
Tarapota  to  send  ahead  to  the  village  of  Lamas  for  a 
draft  of  the  Indians  of  that  tribe  to  come  to  Tarapota 
to  carry  my  luggage  out  of  Tarapota  to  their  town, 
which  was  not  '*in  festa." 

The  morning  after  the  interview  with  the  Prefect  I 
was  awakened  from  a  troubled  dream  early  by  the 


224  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Napo,  announcing  that  a  party  of  Indians  were  out- 
side ''demanding"  as  he  interpreted  ''eager'"  to  see 
me.  I  opened  my  sleepy  eyes  in  a  half  frightened  way, 
on  seeing  a  half  dozen  bare  headed  and  bare  legged 
Indians,  staring  in  their  stolid  way,  not  one  making  any 
effort  to  speak  or  by  gesture  indicate  their  wants.  The 
Napo  explained  that  they  had  come  to  "carry  me 
away,"  which  I  found  meant  that  they  were  there  in 
obedience  to  the  Prefect's  order  to  take  myself  and  be- 
longings on  to  Lamas.  They  asked  me  but  one  question, 
"How  much  cargo?"  or  "show  the  carga"  as  the  load 
is  called.  They  don't  contract  by  weight,  but  rather 
on  the  convenience  of  handling.  My  stuff  was  scattered 
over  the  earthen  floor  of  the  room  and  looked  as  if  it 
would  take  a  good  bit  of  packing,  but  in  a  short  time 
everything  was  in  bundles  on  their  backs  with  which 
they  trotted  off  as  silently  as  if  they  were  stealing. 

The  Indians  of  one  tribe  do  not  care  to  remain  long 
in  the  country  of  another,  especially  when  a  festa  is 
in  progress,  therefore  the  festa  of  Tarapota,  instead  of 
delaying,  served  to  facilitate  my  departure,  because  the 
Lamas  Indians  were  anxious  to  give  their  neighbor's 
festa  a  wide  berth. 

After  morning  coffee,  I  mounted  a  saddle  mule  in 
front  of  the  casa,  which  a  rich  senora  had  kindly  loaned 
for  my  use  and  a  pack  mule  was  supplied  for  the  Napo. 
The  sub-Prefect,  Don  Delgado,  and  the  citizens  gen- 
erally, came  around  to  have  a  farewell  "salute  senor" 
and  to  express  their  well  wishes  over  a  parting  cup  of 
"  chu-chu-wassa, "  I  rode  out  of  the  old  town  gaily, 
for  a  sick  man,  followed  by  the  grinning  Napo. 

The  "camino"  as  the  trail  is  called,  and  the  only 


ON  THE  MOVE  225 

highway  of  all  that  land,  is  nothing  more  than  a  path, 
such  as  a  line  of  mules  at  single  file  will  make.  The 
mules  and  the  files  of  Indians  that  are  constantly  using 
it,  are  the  only  road  builders,  there  being  scarcely  any 
work  done  on  the  camino  by  the  authorities,  beyond  the 
necessity  of  keeping  down  the  rapid  growth  of  under- 
brush, that  would  conceal  the  trail  in  a  few  days,  if 
not  used  constantly. 

Our  camino  led  through  the  upper  part  of  the  valley, 
a  mere  swath  cut  through  a  thick  growth  of  immense 
cane  and  bamboo  so  tall  that  I  could  not  touch  the  top 
with  my  riding  stick.  About  noon  we  forded  the  river 
Mayo,  resting  in  a  grove  on  the  other  bank  for  the 
coffee  and  mutton  breakfast  that  had  been  prepared  in 
advance.  My  note  book  says  the  afternoon  was  in- 
tensely hot  because  of  our  route  being  through  this 
dense  thicket  of  cane  and  bamboo  that  excluded  the 
air.  We  met  a  family  comprising  husband,  wife,  boy, 
girl  and  a  baby  en  route  to  Chasuta,  with  whom  we 
exchanged  the  usual  greetings,  taking  the  opportunity 
to  send  regards  to  Senor  Sandoval  and  Adelina.  Toward 
evening  we  cross  the  divide  by  the  rocky  trail  into 
another  valley.  Along  the  edge  of  one  of  the  hillsides 
were  a  group  of  Indians  in  camp  along  the  trail,  com- 
prising old  and  young  men,  women  and  numerous  chil- 
dren. The  males  stare  indifferently  at  our  approach, 
while  some  of  the  old  women  offer  gourds,  containing 
a  drink,  which  the  Napo  recognizes  as  "guirapa,"  a 
decoction  of  half  fermented  cane  juice,  that  for  pun- 
gent, delicate  flavor  nearly  approaches  champagne  and 
equals  Jersey  cider.  On  his  urgent  representation  that 
it  was  not  real  rum,  but  only  the  juice  fresh  from  the 


226  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

press,  I  first  tasted  sparingly  and  then  drank  all  there 
was  in  the  gourd.  I  advise  any  travellers  through 
that  wilderness  to  make  a  note  of  the  name  ''guirapa" 
that  they  may  avoid  this  insidious,  devilish,  Indian 
compound  or  fire  water  which  caused  the  first  trouble 
I  had  on  the  camino. 

Soon  after  we  separated  ourselves  from  the  hos- 
pitalities of  the  Indians,  the  Napo  and  his  mule  began 
to  have  trouble,  causing  me  some  apprehension  and 
delay  because  they  did  not  seem  to  know  the  road  as 
the  rest  of  us.  He  was  violently  drunk,  and  of  all 
drunken  persons  that  I  have  seen  in  many  lands,  this 
half  wild  Napo  on  a  mule  on  the  Andes  made  the 
greatest  exhibition  of  himself  and  the  effects  of  guirapa. 
We  were  in  a  narrow  defile,  and  perhaps  the  altitude 
increased  the  light  headedness,  the  rum  bringing  the 
worst  nature  of  the  Indian  out.  Luckily  for  me  per- 
haps, the  rum  exaggerated  his  respect  for  the  "Ameri- 
cano," his  admiration  being  increased  to  an  offensive 
absurdity.  He  insisted  on  making  speeches,  demon- 
strating the  greatness  and  glory  of  America,  of  which 
he  was  really  proud  when  sober.  I  could  do  nothing 
with  him,  and  as  the  Indians  from  the  camp  were 
attracted  by  his  ferocious  bellowing  I  anticipated 
trouble  and  rode  off  with  my  escort  of  Lamas. 

A  little  way  ahead  I  unconsciously  ran  into  another 
scene,  an  Amazonian  forest  fire,  that  for  terrific  and 
superlative  fierceness  and  surpassing  grandeur  in  de- 
structive effects  cannot  be  portrayed  by  pen,  and 
scarcely  excelled  by  Dore  in  his  conception  of  the  in- 
ferno. While  yet  some  distance  from  the  scene,  we  saw 
great  volumes  of  smoke,  with  occasional  spits  of  flame 


A  FOREST  FIRE  227 

darting  from  behind  the  hills.  My  Indians  hesitated, 
but  being  anxious  to  investigate  I  rode  ahead  alone, 
when  I  was  halted  suddenly  by  a  blast  of  hot  air  that 
caused  the  mules  to  swing  around  so  quickly  as  to 
almost  unseat  me  into  what  seemed  like  the  crater  of  an 
active  volcano. 

"We  could  see  through  the  dense  smoke  of  burning 
green  leaves,  the  half  naked  forms  of  a  lot  of  Indians, 
their  copper  bodies  blackened,  running  about  yelling 
like  imps  of  the  hell  they  had  made  of  that  part  of  the 
earth.  The  great  flames  fanned  by  the  drafts  passing 
through  the  narrow  defile  attacked  tall  green  trees 
causing  them  to  blaze  up  as  suddenly  as  if  they  had 
been  paper,  the  green  leaves  crackling  from  the  heat 
and  the  flame  like  fireworks  or  continuous  musketry 
fire. 

Riding  back  hastily,  I  found  my  Napo  in  a  heated 
controversy  with  a  lot  of  the  Indians  who  were  follow- 
ing him  up.  I  realized  at  that  moment  that  I  was 
literally  between  two  fires  and  figuratively  on  the  very 
edge  of  hell. 

The  Napo,  wholly  indifferent  to  the  fire  in  our  front, 
turned  to  meet  me,  his  wild  eyes  actually  fiery  and  red 
with  insane  rage,  declared  in  a  loud  voice  that  "these 
Indian  dogs  had  insulted  you  and  America,  and  he 
would  kill  them  and  die  himself  for  me,"  for  which  I 
should  have  been  profoundly  grateful  at  that  moment. 
But  on  the  principle  of  taking  the  bull  by  the  horns,  I 
rode  up  to  him  and  in  plain  English,  in  a  loud  voice, 
mixed  with  disgust,  anger  and  guirapa,  gave  him  to 
understand  we  had  other  business  on  hand  and  he  must 
shut  up. 


228  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  Indians  who  had  collected  evidently  concluded 
from  my  animated  conversation  that  I  did  not  appre- 
ciate the  Napo's  efforts  to  boom  America,  and  passed 
the  matter  off,  as  the  effect  of  too  much  fire  water,  and 
turned  in  to  fight  the  fire  in  our  path,  while  the  Napo 
slunk  to  the  rear  completely  cowed. 

The  fire  was  caused  by  a  squad  of  Indians  who  had 
been  sent  out  to  clear  the  trail,  through  the  thicket, 
and  in  burning  a  swath,  the  flames  had  gotten  beyond 
their  control. 

After  the  fire  had  burned  itself  out  we  rode  safely 
over  the  blackened  earth  and  before  the  day's  sun  had 
set,  arrived  in.  the  town  of  Lama's,  the  destination  for 
that  convoy. 

We  slept  in  the  ''Government  House"  in  Lamas, 
which  is  considered  the  best  house  in  the  town,  which  in 
severe  plainness  resembles  an  adobe  prison,  or  a  dug- 
out to  protect  cattle  or  sheep  from  wolves  at  night. 
The  four  walls  covering  some  twenty  feet  square,  are 
constructed  of  the  mud  or  dark  clay  blocks,  molded 
into  the  shape  of  immense  bricks,  composed  of  a 
mixture  of  clay  and  dark  earth,  giving  them  the  same 
uniformly  dark  color  throughout  the  country.  Straws 
or  the  tough  fibre  of  some  kinds  of  grass,  are  mixed 
in  the  clay  along  with  pebbles  and  sometimes  quite 
large  stones.  There  is  said  to  be  a  remarkable  simi- 
larity to  the  material  used  for  building  in  Egypt, 
There  does  not  appear  to  be  any  cement  or  lime 
required  to  give  it  adhesive  properties,  yet  these  build- 
ings have  withstood  the  weather  for  hundreds  of  years, 
in  all  this  land,  due  in  part  to  the  fact  that  there  are 


ADOBE  AND  BAMBOO  ARCHITECTURE    229 

no  frosts  and  but  few  changes  in  the  weather,  except 
to  the  wet  and  dry  seasons. 

The  material  is  mixed  on  the  ground  near  the  pro- 
posed buildings,  as  we  do  for  mortar.  The  blocks  are 
moulded  separately  on  the  walls,  the  pressure  necessary 
to  exude  the  moisture  being  applied  by  the  stamping 
of  the  Indians'  feet  or  the  blunt  end  of  a  stick  of  wood. 
They  are  altogether  sun-dried,  the  rapid  evaporation 
in  those  altitudes  facilitating  the  work. 

As  each  brick  or  layer  on  the  wall  must  be  hardened 
before  the  next  course  can  be  added,  the  problem  of 
the  construction  of  a  building  of  several  rooms,  always 
of  a  single  story  in  height,  becomes  as  much  a  question 
of  time,  as  that  of  some  of  our  tall  government  build- 
ings of  granite  blocks.  The  work  only  progresses 
when  the  sun  shines;  when  the  rainy  season  comes  all 
building  operations  cease.  There  are,  however,  no 
labor  unions  or  strikes  to  interfere  with  progress.  The 
roofs  of  even  the  mud  huts  are  always  of  the  palm 
thatch,  which  is  woven  in  graceful  outline  on  rustic 
rafters  extending  three  or  four  feet  over  the  walls, 
forming  a  style  of  well  balanced  irregularity  in  crude 
architecture  that  the  modern  builders  do  not  seem 
to  approach  in  lines  of  beauty 

The  capping  or  topping  off  of  the  roofs  seem  to  com- 
pensate largely  for  the  uniform  ugliness  of  four  square 
walls  of  mud.  If  any  fire  is  required  the  smoke  must 
find  its  way  out  through  the  roof,  which  also  preserves 
the  thatch  and  answers  to  prevent  the  numerous  insects 
from  making  it  their  homes. 

For  light  and  incidentally  ventilation,  a  hole  in  the 
wall  of  the  dimensions  of  a  prison  window,  is  left,  in 


230  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOKROW 

the  shape  of  a  peep  hole,  long  and  narrow,  so  that 
neither  a  man's  head  may  be  put  inside,  nor  a  woman's 
look  out. 

The  adobe  is  usually  occupied  by  the  Spaniard  or  de- 
scendent  who  settles  in  the  towns  and  constructs  blocks 
or  rows  of  these  adobe  walls,  usually  in  the  form  of  a 
hollow  square,  all  opening  into  the  court  or  plaza.  This 
formation  gives  better  protection,  as  well  as  more 
sociability.  The  Spaniards  separate  casa  or  house  is 
always  constructed  on  the  same  lines,  opening  into 
the  ''patio"  or  inner  court. 

The  Indians'  bamboo  and  thatch  is  more  picturesque 
and  for  that  climate  more  comfortable  than  the  heavy 
walled  adobe  that  is  liable  to  be  damp  in  the  rainy 
season. 

There  are  none  of  the  annoyances  that  our  house- 
keepers experience  from  broken  or  soiled  window 
panes.  In  all  that  interior  of  the  land  of  to-morrow 
the  use  of  window  glass  is  unknown,  and  I  may  add, 
unnecessary.  The  weather  is  usually  so  balmy  that 
an  open  window  is  a  daily  comfort.  Neither  are 
there  any  doors  such  as  we  know.  The  plan 
of  each  house  provides  for  a  single  entrance. 
As  there  are  no  boards  or  lumber  in  all  the 
hundreds  of  miles  of  forests  of  mahogany  and  cedar, 
except  perhaps  some  short  lengths  that  have  been 
brought  on  mules  or  the  backs  of  Indians  from  the 
coast,  for  making  of  rude  table  tops  or  shelves. 

The  door  space  of  the  Government  House  was  a 
wicket,  made  of  a  number  of  heavy  sticks  of  bamboo 
held  together  by  withes  of  vine-like  fibre  as  tough  and 
flexible  as  wire.      Though  pliable  it  was  strong,  the 


A  DISTRESSING  INCIDENT  231 

uprights  of  bamboo  added  to  the  prison-like  appearance 
of  the  house.  At  night  it  was  closed  with  a  cross  bar, 
a  necessary  protection  from  any  straying  wild  animals 
that  might  have  been  attracted  to  the  place  by  the 
scent  of  the  provisions. 

A  sad  incident  occurred  at  this  place  which  will 
illustrate  the  need  of  missionary  enterprise  that  will 
introduce  some  practical  appliances  with  their  teach- 
ings. The  reader  will  recall  the  young  girl  dying  with 
consumption  who  started  with  us  on  the  *'Sabia,"  and 
whom  we  afterwards  met  and  saluted  in  the  canoe. 
In  walking  about  the  village  of  Lamas  in  the  early 
morning  I  was  surprised  and  gratified  to  meet  her 
brother,  the  courteous  young  Spaniard,  who  had 
brought  her  over  the  mountains,  strapped  to  a  chair 
carried  gently  on  the  backs  of  the  Indians  to  this  sani- 
tarium in  hopes  of  prolonging  her  life. 

To  my  cordial  greeting  and  inquiries  as  to  his  sister's 
condition,  he  responded  in  the  Spanish,  which  seems  to 
express  more  fully  than  the  English,  the  spirit  of 
devotion  and  love  existing  between  brother  and  sister. 
He  said  ''every  pulsation  of  his  heart  was  a  pang  of 
grief  and  regret  that  he  had  so  long  delayed  the  coming 
to  Lamas."  He  could  not  give  further  expression  to 
his  feelings,  but  one  could  see  through  the  film  of  the 
tear  down  into  the  solemn  depths  of  his  large  black 
eyes,  that  he  realized  that  he  must  soon  go  with  his 
sister  to  the  world  beyond.  His  words  emphasized  by 
the  deep  hectic  flush  on  his  dark  cheek,  indicating  that 
the  grim  monster  had  touched  him  with  his  pink  brush. 

Feeling  sure  of  his  sister's  death,  he  was  at  that 
moment  making  the  preliminary  preparations,  express- 


232  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

ing  his  distress  to  me  that  in  all  that  land,  he  could  not 
find  enough  plain  boards  to  make  a  rude  casket  for  the 
reception  of  her  body. 

Lamas  is  a  well-known  sanitarium,  where  the  afflicted 
from  all  over  Peru  are  in  the  habit  of  isolating  them- 
selves, and  to  arrest  dissolution  from  consumption. 
That  but  few  deaths  occur  at  Lamas,  may  account  for 
the  lack  of  facilities  for  caring  for  the  dead.  It  is  a 
town  where  there  are  but  few  burials,  but  which  may 
be  called  a  living  grave  yard.  Perhaps  the  peculiar 
location  has  something  to  do  with  the  remarkable  san- 
itary conditions.  The  town  or  camp  is  built  on  the 
point  of  an  isolated  bench  of  land,  which  juts  out  from 
the  mountain,  like  a  peninsula,  into  a  valley  of  waving 
green  foliage.  The  point  is  of  reddish  clay,  entirely 
destitute  of  vegetation,  several  miles  in  area. 

From  the  earliest  recollection  the  plac6  has  main- 
tained a  remarkable  reputation,  as  being  the  one  place 
on  earth  where  consumptives  may  live  to  old  age,  which 
probably  accounts  for  the  name  given  by  the  people  as 
"The  consumptives'  paradise  or  heaven."  It  is  not 
denied  that  they  do  die  here  sometimes,  but  only  such  as 
come  to  the  place  in  a  dying  condition,  the  only  claim 
of  the  Peruvian  physicians  is  that  the  progress  of  the 
disease  is  arrested  by  a  residence.  The  altitude  is  con- 
siderable above  that  of  Tarapota,  but  not  so  great  as 
Moyabamba,  the  temperature  uniformly  the  same  every 
day  of  the  entire  year.  The  nights  are  cool  and  pleas- 
ant, the  air  dry  and  warm,  permitting  the  people  to 
move  about  in  the  sunshine  of  the  days,  that  are  unusu- 
ally dry,  as  but  little  rain  falls,  which  fact  accounts  for 
the  barrenness  of  the  knoll.  On  all  sides  throughout  the 


CONSUMPTIVES'  SANITARIUM  233 

valley  a  species  of  palm  is  indigenous  not  unlike  some  of 
our  pines,  through  which  the  breezes  come  tempered 
and  perfumed. 

As  Lamas  was  not  a  particularly  attractive  stopping 
place  for  me,  and  desiring  to  get  away  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble, I  enlisted  the  Napo's  aid  through  exciting  his  dull 
comprehension  into  a  scare  of  contagion  from  consump- 
tion, which  I  made  him  believe  was  as  infectious  as 
small-pox,  one  thing  of  which  every  Indian  entertains  a 
holy  horror,  and  at  an  appearance  of  which  he  will 
abandon  wife,  child  and  all  he  has. 

On  account  of  the  escapade  on  the  trail,  the  day 
previous,  I  had,  by  way  of  disciplining  him,  assumed  a 
severe  attitude  towards  him,  the  dignified  silence  and 
uncertainty  of  my  action  had  a  more  subduing  effect 
than  the  threats  of  turning  him  over  to  the  Governador. 
He  considered  it  a  privilege  to  eat  his  rations  alongside 
of  or  with  me,  to  deny  him  this  or  to  withhold  recogni- 
tion of  himself  as  ''interpreter"  humiliated  him  before 
the  other  Indians.  After  breakfasting  alone  in  sullen 
silence,  he  approached  with  his  old  hat  in  hand,  in 
supplicating  voice,  ridiculous  by  his  absurd  words  and 
manner,  began  his  apology:  "I  salute  you,  Major?" 
Then  followed  an  awkward  pause,  as  I  declined  to 
notice  him.  He  continued  abjectly,  as  he  twirled  his 
sombrero  in  his  hands  hesitatingly,  muttering,  "I  am 
ashamed  of  you.  Major,"  he  meant  ''ashamed  of  him- 
self," or  ashamed  on  my  account,  which  break  in  the 
interpreter's  English  caused  me  to  part  with  my 
assumed  dignity  and  laugh,  which  served  to  re-establish 
the  entente  cordial.  He  gave  me  his  hand,  promising 
faithfully  never  to  touch  another  drop  of  "guirapa," 


234  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

which  I  think  he  meant  at  the  time,  but  we  will  see  what 
happened  the  next  day.  I  made  good  use  of  his  peni- 
tence for  the  time  by  enlisting  his  interest  in  whooping 
up  the  departure,  sending  him  out  on  the  trail  to  deliver 
letters  to  the  Governador,  and  to  make  representations 
on  his  own  account,  of  the  necessity  for  haste. 

The  next  relay  covered  a  journey  of  seven  or  eight 
days  over  the  principal  range  of  the  Andes  chain,  to 
Moyabamba,  and  it  was  necessary  that  we  should  be 
well  equipped  at  Lamas.  As  usual,  we  encountered  the 
Governador 's  plea  for  a  few  days'  delay,  in  order  that 
the  Indians  might  prepare  their  food,  etc. 

I  took  the  Governador  to  one  side,  tendering  him  a 
fee  in  the  way  of  a  few  silver  soles,  explaining  my 
anxiety  to  get  to  Lima  on  official  business,  but  really 
nervous  to  get  out  of  the  consumptives'  heaven,  no 
matter  where  or  how  we  got  away.  The  Napo  assisted 
in  this,  urged  by  the  same  motive,  telling  the  Governa- 
dor a  number  of  lies  about  the  exalted  character  of  the 
Consul  Americano  for  whom  he  was  interpreter  and 
guide.  I  think  that  old  Governador  believed  I  was  an 
Ambassador  from  the  President  of  the  United  States  to 
the  President  of  Peru,  and  feared  that  I  would  make 
complaint  about  his  unpreparedness.  I  assured  him 
that  I  should  speak  a  good  word  for  him  to  the  Presi- 
dent on  reaching  Lima.  I  volunteered  to  buy  provis- 
ions for. the  Indians  to  avoid  the  delay  of  preparation, 
all  of  which  served  to  clear  the  way  for  our  departure 
the  next  morning. 

The  Governador  kindly  offered  the  loan  of  his  own 
horse  and  saddle  for  my  use,  for  the  first  stage  of  the 
journey,  a  small  Indian  pony  being  also  provided  for 


DIFFERENT  TRIBES  235 

the  big  Napo,  though  it  is  the  custom  for  Indians  to 
walk  and  carry  carga,  while  the  traveller  rides,  the 
Napo  provided  for  himself  as  my  *' interpreter"  entitled 
to  consideration  over  the  ordinary  Indian. 

Four  peons  or  Indians  of  the  Lamas  brand  were  de- 
tailed as  my  escort  through  to  Moyabamba,  some  six 
days'  journey  afoot,  at  the  usual  rate  of  less  than  one 
sole  or  half  dollar  per  day  for  each  Indian  or  pony,  both 
being  rated  the  same  as  beasts  of  burden.  All  agree- 
ments are  scrupulously  carried  out  by  the  Indians,  there 
being  in  my  experience  no  cause  for  complaint,  except 
from  over  indulgence  towards  the  peons,  who,  however 
hard  it  may  seem  to  put  on  paper,  should  be  treated 
with  the  same  consideration  and  kindness  an  owner 
shows  to  an  animal  who  serves  him  faithfully.  As  a 
rule  they  do  not  resent  what  may  seem  like  harshness 
and  some  of  them  seem  to  show  as  little  sense  of  appre- 
ciation as  a  mule.  There  are,  however,  many  excep- 
tions. 

In  general  the  tribes  look  alike  though  each  have 
some  distinguishing  characteristics,  in  the  way  of  their 
make  up,  that  marks  their  tribe. 

The  Lamas  do  not  wear  hats  or  shoes,  and  have  a 
peculiar  daub  of  paint  or  tatoo,  as  well  as  of  dialect. 
One  of  my  escorts  of  Lamas  was  a  stalwart  young  fel- 
low, whose  sinewy  well  knit  frame  shown  by  the  half- 
nude  dress,  his  body  inclining  forward  under  the  bur- 
den on  his  back  constantly  reminded  me  of  the  pictures 
or  statuettes  representing  Atlas  carrying  the  world 
around  on  his  shoulders. 

In  conveying  the  heavy  packs  and  bulky  burdens  on 
their  backs,  the  Indian  inclines  the  upper  part  of  the 


236  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

body  forward  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five,  that  he 
may  more  easily  maintain  the  centre  of  gravity.  If  the 
load  is  cumbersome,  or  bulky,  he  may  guy  it  by  passing 
straps  around  his  forehead  to  help  hold  in  place.  How- 
ever weighty  or  bulky  the  loaded  Indian  trots  along  the 
rough  camino  all  day  cheerfully,  and  lays  down  his 
burden  in  camp  and  goes  off  fishing  or  hunting  half  the 
night. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

NLY  three  Indians  reporting  in  the 
morning,  the  Governador  ascertaining 
that  the  fourth  was  too  drunk  to 
travel,  settled  the  impending  delay  by 
deciding  that  the  three  assume  the 
burden  of  four,  offering  to  divide  the 
pay  of  the  four  amongst  the  three. 
After  lifting,  to  test  the  weight  of  the  carga,  it  was 
agreed  to  and  the  bundles  assorted  and  strapped  to  suit 
themselves  were  quickly  gathered  up,  they  started  off, 
leaving  the  fourth  to  be  dealt  with  by  the  Governador. 
The  chief  of  our  squad  was  an  elder  brother  of 
Atlas,  rather  short  in  statue  but  quite  muscular,  who 
had  brought  along  on  his  own  account  his  two  boys, 
bright  little  fellows  of  eight  and  ten  years,  each  of 
whom  carried  on  their  backs  packs,  composed  princi- 
pally of  the  provisions  of  the  Indians.  As  soon  as  the 
papoose  begins  to  walk  their  training  begins  by  putting 
packs  on  them.  There  was  also  an  old  grandfather 
Indian,  who  joined  the  party,  probably  as  a  means  of 
keeping  his  joints  loosened  by  a  tramp  of  eight  days, 
with  his  two  sons  and  grandsons.  He  was  consid- 
ered too  feeble  to  pack  anj^thing  but  a  gun. 

As  usual,  the  entire  village,  including  the  Governador 
and  the  squaws  of  the  escorts,  assembled  to  see  us  off. 
The  gayly  caparisoned  horse  of  the  Governador, 
recognizing  a  stranger  on  his  back,  began  to  cut  capers 
on  the  village  square  to  the  entertainment  of  the  crowd. 

237 


238  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

My  early  training  in  Western  Texas  and  later  expe- 
rience as  a  rough  rider  with  Custer  as  an  officer  of  the 
Second  Cavalry,  easily  gave  me  the  victory.  The  per- 
formance, however,  seemed  to  add  to  my  importance  in 
the  estimation  of  the  Indians.  With  many  adios  to 
the  Governador  and  the  crowd,  we  rode  gladly  away 
from  the  consumptives'  heaven  over  the  hill  and  down 
into  a  valley  that  came  near  to  being  an  Indians'  hell. 

We  followed  the  Indians  along  the  trail  or  camino 
westward  through  a  narrow  valley  for  several  hours 
before  reaching  our  first  halt  for  rest,  and  the  noonday 
breakfast.  Here  the  first  and  only  serious  trouble  I 
had  with  Indians  was  fermented,  I  may  say,  by  my  own 
indiscretion.  I  had  given  the  Napo  some  money  to  dis- 
tribute among  our  quota,  as  a  further  inducement  to 
hasten  our  departure,  intending  that  the  money  would 
be  used  to  buy  provisions.  But  they  had  spent  the 
money  instead  for  rum,  one  having  succumbed  inglor- 
iously  before  we  started,  but  the  rest  had  cunningly 
concealed  their  supply  till  they  got  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  Governador.  At  this  the  first  stop  gourds  and 
skin  bottles  were  produced  from  hidden  recesses  that 
would  have  puzzled  an  old  soldier  accustomed  to  smug- 
gling whiskey  into  camp. 

It  was  no  use  to  threaten  and  order  them  to  stop 
drinking.  The  Napo,  speaking  from  experience,  said 
the  only  thing  was  to  let  them  finish  their  supply,  and 
then  wait  till  they  should  sleep  or  fight  its  effects  off. 

I  was  rather  alarmed  to  see  they  did  not  have  enough 
to  cause  them  to  become  stupid  and  sleepy.  After  a 
lot  of  parleying  and  pow-wowing  they  started  off. 
Atlas,  with  my  box  on  his  back,  staggered  along  yelling 


DRUNKEN  INDIANS  239 

like  a  wild  man  on  the  war  path,  though  the  road  was 
rough  and  in  some  places  dangerous,  he  never  hesitated 
in  his  dog  trot.  To  my  expressed  apprehensions  about 
my  trunk  he  would  go  faster  as  if  to  convince  me  of  its 
safety,  and  reaching  a  defile  or  ditch,  leap  nimbly  over 
or  recklessly  skip  from  rock  to  rock  across  rushing 
streams  that  of  themselves  made  me  dizzy. 

For  some  reason,  not  easily  explained,  the  Indians  as 
a  rule  treated  me  with  more  consideration  than  they 
usually  gave  to  a  stranger.  They  really  disliked  the 
Napo,  because  he  was  of  another  nation  and  disposed  to 
to  put  on  airs,  on  account  of  his  association  with  the 
white  man,  as  interpreter.  They  always  addressed  me 
respectfully,  as  ''padrone"  or  patron,  as  they  sound  it, 
which  means  father  or  superior.  In  my  protests  to  Atlas, 
he  would  stop  his  chatter,  and  in  a  drunken  gutteral  try 
to  let  me  see  it  was  all  right  and  no  harm  would 
come  to  my  box  or  to  me,  and  in  an  humble  appeal  beg 
for  more  "cassy"  padrone,  ''More  cassy,  padrone." 
The  only  English  word  he  knew  was  "cassy,"  for  rum. 
His  brother  was  less  sedate  in  his  drunkenness,  occupy- 
ing himself  in  absurd  antics  for  the  amusement  of  his 
two  young  boys.  They  had  also  tasted  of  the  cup,  and 
capered  around  like  a  pair  of  Peck^s  bad  boys.  The  old 
grandfather  was  a  boy  again. 

The  other  fellow  was  inclined  to  be  sullen,  and 
wanted  to  sleep,  which  exasperated  the  Napo,  who  had 
imbibed  enough  to  make  him  ugly,  notwithstanding  his 
promise  of  the  day  previous. 

The  maudling  lot  of  drunken  Indians  disgusted  me 
so  that  I  rode  ahead,  leaving  the  Napo  to  bring  them 
up.     I  had  probably  gotten  only  half  a  mile  ahead, 


240  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

when  I  was  halted  by  hearing  a  terrific  yelling  followed 
by  a  gunshot.  On  the  spur  of  the  moment  I  wheeled 
suddenly,  intuitively  drawing  my  revolver,  galloped 
back  without  stopping  to  consider  what  would  be  best. 
On  the  top  of  the  hill  were  clustered  the  Indians  shout- 
ing and  gesticulating  threateningly  at  the  Napo,  who 
sat  trembling  on  his  pony,  bare  headed  and  cowed,  or 
begging  for  mercy.  The  old  grandad,  with  gun  cocked, 
and  pointed  towards  the  Napo,  on  seeing  me  rushing 
towards  them,  turned  and  pointed  threateningly  at  me. 

In  moments  of  sudden  danger  or  excitement  I  have 
been  fortunately  able  to  remain  cooler  than  when 
anticipating  trouble.  My  good  luck  served  me  in  this 
emergency.  I  did  not  attempt  to  check  my  horse,  but 
in  pure  desperation,  whipped  up  to  a  charge,  feeling 
that  it  was  safer  at  close  range,  rode  my  horse  right 
over  the  old  man,  knocking  the  staggering  fool  over. 
Realizing  that  I  was  the  only  one  armed,  the  gun  not 
having  been  reloaded  after  the  shot  that  had  called  me 
back.  But  I  also  realized  that  five  barrels  of  a  smal] 
revolver  against  six  drunken  and  frenzied  savages 
would  not  avail  me  alone  on  the  top  of  the  Andes.  Some 
good  angel  whispered  into  my  ear  as  I  hesitated  for  a 
moment,  ''It's  your  fault;  rum  and  the  Napo  is  the 
cause  of  the  trouble.'*  Turning  to  the  Napo,  pointing 
my  pistol  in  his  face,  with  an  anger  born  of  desperation, 
demanded  that  he  make  amends  or  I  would  sacrifice 
him. 

I  could  not  talk  to  the  Indians,  but  they  saw  from  my 
action  that  I  was  not  of  the  same  mind  as  the  Napo. 
The  old  man  had  gathered  himself  up  and  with  reloaded 
gun  at  a  support,  wildly  savage  towards  me,  would  have 


A  FRACAS  WITH  INDIANS  241 

fired  but  Atlas,  who  had  thrown  off  his  load,  seeing  his 
father's  fury,  sprang  towards  him,  snatching  the  gun 
from  his  hands  and  fired  into  the  air  the  load  intended 
for  me. 

I  owe  my  life  to  the  Indian  Atlas.  Though  this  is 
described  as  only  a  row  with  drunken  Indians,  who 
were  harmless  when  sober,  it  was  an  experience  that  I 
would  go  a  long  ways  around  to  avoid. 

The  balance  of  the  day  I  rode  behind  the  Indians,  the 
better  to  protect  myself  by  a  retreat  if  necessary.  The 
old  grandad  who  was  hard  to  appease,  carried  all  after- 
noon in  a  threatening  way,  the  matchette,  or  long  sword 
knife.  Realizing  that  he  was  being  driven  as  a  dis- 
armed prisoner  to  the  next  town,  he  attempted  once  or 
twice  to  slip  back  to  Lamas,  but  for  reasons  of  policy 
I  preferred  to  take  him  along.  The  Napo  was  so  com- 
pletely cowed  that  he  would  have  been  of  no  use  to  me 
in  a  fight. 

This  affair  served  to  detain  us  on  the  trail  until 
after  dark,  when  we  groped  our  way  down  the  side  of 
a  mountain  and  entered  the  village  of  Chenoa,  located 
in  a  little  valley  alongside  of  the  river  Mayo.  Here  we 
again  reported  to  a  Governador,  simply  requesting 
shelter  for  the  night.  I  felt  apprehensive  about  our 
safety  during  the  night,  if  the  treacherous  old  Indian 
could  get  at  enough  cassy  to  make  him  ugly  or  induce 
others  to  help  him  to  seek  revenge,  and  was  careful  to 
have  the  Governador  give  me  a  house  in  which  we  could 
secure  ourselves. 

We  spread  our  blankets  on  some  rude  benches  of  a 
large  room  used  as  a  house  for  meetings  or  festas.  The 
Governador  did  all  he  could  for  our  comfort,  but  I  con- 


242  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

fess  to  a  feeling  of  nervousness  lest  the  entire  village 
might  be  fired  by  rum  to  rise  against  us.  Though  we 
laid  down  to  sleep  lulled  by  the  peaceful  ripple  of  the 
river  that  tumbled  over  the  rocks,  we  passed  a  night  of 
horror  never  to  be  forgotten. 

Though  rolled  in  blankets  above  the  floor,  the  discom- 
fort was  increased  by  the  knowledge  of  dampness  by 
the  foul  air  of  the  place;  to  some  observation  about  its 
unhealthfulness,  the  Governador  indifferently  observed 
that  a  recent  freshet  in  the  river  had  made  all  the  level 
ground  thereabout  alike  swampy,  and  he  could  do  no 
better  for  us.  The  nervousness  was  increased  by  the 
bats,  darting  about  the  light,  which  we  put  out  as  a 
matter  of  protection,  but  the  silence  broken  by  the 
crawling  or  running  of  lizzards  over  the  walls,  was 
increased.  They  are  small  objects,  but  able  to  impress 
themselves  very  forcibly  on  one's  presence  even  in  the 
dark  when  on  the  walls  or  ceilings  imagining  they  move 
their  heads  about  as  if  to  see  whether  it  would  be  safe 
to  jump  on  the  object  below. 

The  river's  overflow  had  also  the  effect  of  driving  the 
snakes  from  the  lower  levels  to  the  higher  points,  on 
one  of  which  the  hut  we  occupied  was  located.  I  was 
aroused  from  a  restless  half  doze  by  feeling  something 
cold  on  my  forehead,  which  I  thought  was  a  bat  of  the 
vampire  sort,  that  bite  the  sleeping  animals,  sometimes 
causing  death  from  the  exhaustion  of  the  blood  of  the 
victim.  Covering  my  head  with  the  blanket  for  pro- 
tection was  equal  to  slow  suffocation.  In  despair  I 
determined  to  sit  up  the  balance  of  the  night.  Groping 
about  in  my  bare  feet  on  the  damp  earthen  floor  in 
search  of  a  match  and  candle  from  our  luggage  which 


A  NIGHT  OF  TERROR  243 

was  piled  on  the  floor,  I  imagined  I  frightened  some  rats 
that  had  been  attracted  to  our  provisions.  They  scam- 
pered off,  as  I  accidentally  upset  some  of  the  luggage. 
I  found  the  match,  after  the  usual  hunt  for  such  things, 
and  striking  it  on  the  box  with  a  crackling  noise,  the 
sudden  light  revealed  to  my  already  strained  nervous- 
ness the  horrible  fact  that  there  were  snakes  on  our 
bed  room  floor. 

I  had  not  been  drinking  any  guirapa,  not  even  chu- 
chu-wassa.  The  snakes  I  saw  were  genuine,  crawling, 
wiggling,  lively  squirming  objects  of  terror.  The  light 
had  the  effect  of  scattering  them  and  me  too.  I  dropped 
the  burning  match  as  if  it  were  a  bomb,  and  in  my 
frantic  efforts  to  reach  the  bench  I  fell  over  the  sleep- 
ing Napo.  Gathering  myself  up  I  jumped  on  his  bench, 
wakening  him  rather  suddenly.  But  he  did  not  seem 
to  mind  snakes  or  my  kicks,  declaring  reassuringly  that 
they  would  not  hurt  me — wanted  to  lie  down  to  sleep 
again — but  on  the  principle  that  misery  loves  company, 
I  insisted  upon  his  sitting  up  with  me.  I  was  afraid  to 
get  down  on  the  floor  myself,  so  made  him  bring  me  my 
riding  boots,  which  I  only  ventured  to  draw  on  after 
being  assured  by  the  grinning  Napo  that  there  were  no 
snakes  in  them.  I  spent  the  balance  of  the  night  stand- 
ing on  the  bench,  striking  matches  to  the  amusement  of 
the  Napo,  and  the  astonishment  of  snakes,  to  which  I 
''said  things'^  in  English  that  would  not  look  well  in 
cold  type. 

The  grey  light  of  early  dawn  revealed  the  ugly 
Indian  village  of  Chenoa,  located  like  Chasuta,  in  the 
mud.     It  is  a  ''balsa"  or  ferrying  point  over  the  river 


244  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Mayo  at  a  point  above  a  natural  dam  of  rocks  which 
makes  a  pool  suited  for  ferrying. 

The  Governador  at  the  head  of  an  Indian  file  proces- 
sion, came  to  our  hut,  I  wondered  what  was  going  to 
happen  next.  I  listened  to  a  long  harangue,  not  one 
word  of  which  I  understood,  but  inferred  from  the  sup- 
plicating attitude  of  the  Indians  that  they  meant  to 
apologize  for  their  conduct  of  the  previous  day.  I 
pretended  to  be  reluctant  to  grant  the  favor — though 
really  most  eager  to  make  any  terms  at  all — as  they 
had  the  advantage  of  possession  and  resources.  Atlas 
advanced  with  extended  hand  muttering  over  and  over 
the  salutation,  ''Patron,"  or  padrone,  expressing  also 
his  "thankfulness"  as  the  interpreter  put  it,  ''because 
you  did  not  shoot  his  father."  I  gave  each  a  gloved 
hand,  adding  later  a  trifling  present  to  the  two  little 
boys. 

The  balsa  or  ferriage  considered  to  be  dangerous  at 
this  point  was  made  more  hazardous  because  of  the 
recent  high  water.  Like  everything  else  ferrying  be- 
comes a  matter  of  contract  with  a  Governador.  I  paid 
in  advance  for  putting  two  head  of  horses  and  six  head 
of  Indians  and  myself  on  the  other  bank.  The  Indians 
were  piled  into  one  canoe,  which  it  was  arranged  should 
make  the  first  attempt,  leading  the  swimming  horses  by 
ropes.  The  Napo  stood  on  the  bank  finding  fault  with 
the  Governador 's  plans,  declaring  the  attempt  to  swim 
two  horses  together  would  result  in  drowning  both.  It 
looked  a  little  that  way  to  me,  and  as  better  securing 
their  safety,  I  told  the  Napo  to  get  in  the  canoe  and 
give  them  the  benefit  of  his  Ecuadorian  skill,  he  de- 
murred with  the  observation,  "No,  sir,  it  is  dangerous 


BALSA— OR  FERRY  245 

to  die,"  meaning  that  it  was  dangerous  and  might 
result  in  the  drowning  of  himself.  I  let  him  off  with  a 
laugh  at  his  interpretation. 

In  obedience  to  the  orders  and  threats  of  the  Gov- 
ernador,  the  canoe  load  of  chattering  Indians  was 
shoved  out,  and  caught  in  the  rushing  current  before 
they  were  ready,  the  two  horses  plunging  wildly  in 
the  water  over  the  rocky  bottoms  were  liable  to  injure 
themselves  or  upset  the  canoe.  The  current  took  them 
down  so  rapidly  that  scarcely  any  headway  was  being 
made  across  though  the  Indians  paddled  vigorously.  We 
followed  them  down  the  bank  shouting  and  perhaps  say- 
ing things  in  English  they  did  not  understand,  urging 
them  to  keep  the  horses'  heads  above  water,  one  of  the 
Chenoas,  thinking  the  canoe  was  going  over  the  falls 
below,  jumped  and  swam  to  shore.  After  a  struggle 
which  took  them  almost  out  of  sight  I  was  glad  to  see 
that  my  horse's  feet  had  touched  bottom  and  he  was 
staggering  to  the  other  shore.  The  other  horse  had 
completely  collapsed,  lodging  on  the  rocks  some  dis- 
tance below,  no  effort  being  made  to  revive  him.  The 
Governador,  with  myself  and  the  Napo,  crossed  without 
adventure  in  a  separate  canoe  that  the  Napo  skillfully 
managed. 

With  a  correct  sense  of  justice  and  fair  play,  the  Gov- 
ernador deducted  a  proportion  of  the  ferriage  on 
account  of  the  drowned  horse,  that  had  not  been  de- 
livered on  the  far  bank,  according  to  the  contract. 

This  left  the  Napo  afoot  with  the  Lamas,  which  I  did 
not  regret,  feeling  that  it  was  his  lubberly  body  and 
rough  riding  that  had  so  exhausted  the  pony  that  he 
easily  succumbed   to   the   fording.    Believing  that   a 


246  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

merciful  man  should  be  merciful  to  his  beast,  and 
realizing  that  my  pony  too  had  been  roughly  handled 
in  the  ferriage,  when  we  reached  a  steep  hill  with  a 
rocky  trail  I  dismounted  to  lead  him.  The  effort  was 
not  appreciated,  perhaps  because  he  had  never  before 
experienced  such  consideration.  He  resisted  viciously, 
tried  to  jump  on  me,  upsetting. my  dignity  and  the 
saddle  packs,  and  breaking  a  bottle  of  chu-chu-wassa. 

While  the  Indians  and  the  Napo  stopped  to  rest  and 
make  coffee  I  rode  ahead  on  the  well  defined  trail 
through  a  fertile  valley  leading  to  the  larger  village  df 
Tabalosa,  which  we  should  have  reached  the  previous 
night,  except  for  the  fracas  that  landed  us  in  Chenoa. 

The  town  of  Tabalosa,  like  all  the  Spanish  or  half- 
civilized  native  villages,  is  situated  on  a  barren  hill  top. 
In  its  architectural  appearance  and  filthiness  it  resem- 
bles all  the  rest,  my  observation  seeming  to  prove  true 
the  statement  that  a  Spaniard  hates  a  tree  and  suc- 
ceeds in  making  the  natives  feel  likewise,  as  none  are 
cultivated  near  their  dwellings. 

On  reaching  the  outskirts  of  this  town  I  became 
demoralized  on  seeing  that  the  inhabitants  were  wildly 
celebrating  one  of  their  festas.  The  usual  procession 
with  the  holy  emblems,  and  Peruvian  flags  and  loud  tom 
tom  music  was  emerging  from  the  church,  causing  me 
to  rein  up  as  suddenly  as  if  I  had  run  into  a  detachment 
of  the  enemies  we  used  to  be  always  on  the  lookout 
for  when- we  had  rides  through  Virginia  a  few  years 
ago.  In  this  instance  if  I  had  been  leading  an  invasion 
I  should  not  have  been  more  disturbed,  if  I  had  encoun- 
tered an  armed  force  instead  of  this  religious  proces- 
sion.    If  one  wants  to  get  through  that  land  pleasantly 


ENCOUNTERING  A  FESTA  247 

they  should  cultivate  first  the  clergy  and  after  that  the 
army  officials. 

Though  some  distance  from  the  crowd,  I  hastily 
doffed  my  sombrero,  as  is  required  of  every  one  who 
wears  a  hat,  when  one  of  these  priestly  marshals  are 
on  exhibition. 

Realizing  that  it  was  of  no  use  to  attempt  to  pass 
through  the  village  until  the  tedious  ceremonies  were 
over,  and  fearful  that  the  break-up  or  aftermath  would 
so  demoralize  the  Indians  of  the  town,  that  we  would 
have  trouble  in  getting  our  Indians  through,  there 
being  always  some  ill  feeling  and  jealousy  between  the 
different  tribes.  I  waited  till  my  procession  came  up, 
intending  to  try  and  create  a  good  impression  by  mak- 
ing a  grand  entree  into  the  village,  to  take  part  in  the 
festa,  as  distinguished  visitors  or  travellers,  which  I 
knew  would  have  the  effect  of  pleasing  the  officials  and 
the  Indians. 

It  was  arranged  that  the  Napo  as  an  interpreter 
should  do  all  the  lying  to  the  Governador,  while  I'd 
play  the  role  of  Poo-bah,  or  that  of  a  distinguished 
Ambassador  en  route  to  Lima  to  see  the  President  of 
Peru.  The  Napo  entered  heartily  into  the  plans,  I 
impressed  on  him  the  necessity  of  first  securing  the 
local  Governador 's  influence  to  enable  us  to  pass 
through  the  village  without  allowing  our  Indians  to 
come  in  contact  with  theirs. 

When  all  ready,  I  took  the  head  of  the  column,  the 
only  mounted  personage,  the  interpreter  following  at 
my  side,  while  the  half  dozen  of  ragged  and  dirty 
Indians  and  the  two  boys  followed  in  single  file, 
making  the  grand  entree  in  a  style  not  excelled  by 


248  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Coxey's  army  into  Washington.  When  I  deigned  to 
address  the  Napo,  or  he  would  venture  to  speak  to  me, 
he  would  take  off  his  excuse  for  a  hat,  and  bow  obse- 
quiously. As  the  rest  did  not  wear  hats  they  were  ex- 
cused from  this  formality.  We  solemnly  marched  up 
the  street,  without  noticing  the  gaping  villagers,  halting 
in  front  of  the  Governador's  hut,  where  the  principal 
beggars  of  the  place  were  having  some  sort  of  a  pow- 
wow that  always  follows  a  f esta.  This  gathering  was  to 
our  advantage. 

As  previously  stated,  a  passport  is  not  at  all  a 
necessity  and  seldom  offered  in  any  of  these  lands, 
except  perhaps  for  the  identification  of  an  official. 

Before  starting  on  this  overland  trip  I  had  communi- 
cated with  the  Brazilian  government  at  Rio  de  Janeiro 
and  Lima  stating  my  desire  of  travelling  alone  through 
the  interiors  of  their  country,  asking  a  passport.  A 
pleasant  reply  was  sent  stating  that  ' '  My  exequator  as 
a  United  States  Consul,  in  their  country,  was  recog- 
nized all  over  Brazil  and  Peru,  and  it  was  only  neces- 
sary to  make  myself  known  to  ensure  consideration.'^ 

I  had  been  supplied,  some  years  previous,  with  the 
** special  passport"  from  our  Department  of  State, 
given  to  each  Consul  with  his  appointment.  I  never 
had  occasion  to  present  it.  It  was  a  large  official  docu- 
ment on  parchment,  with  the  usual  spread  eagle  head- 
ing, the  text  in  copper  plate  chirography,  endorsing  me 
by  name  to  the  care  of  the  officials  of  the  countries  to 
which  I  was  accredited  or  visited  en  route  to  my  post 
of  duty,  stating  that  I  was  entitled  to  the  courtesies 
and  safe  conduct  that  would  be  extended  to  citizens  of 
their   countries   who   were   travelling   in   the   United 


USE  OF  A  PASSPORT  249 

States.     A  large  red  seal  emphasized  the  signature  of 
the  Secretary  of  State,  James  G.  Blaine. 

I  prized  the  document  as  an  autograph  as  I  do  that 
of  my  army  commission  bearing  the  signatures  of  Lin- 
coln and  Stanton. 

Happily  it  occurred  to  me  that  I  should  take  this 
official  parchment  along  on  this  trip,  with  a. view  of 
having  it  vised  by  each  official  as  I  passed  through 
the  different  states  and  countries,  which  I  thought 
would  make  an  interesting  collection  of  autographs, 
but  would  serve  also  to  preserve  in  an  official  way,  with 
stamped  seal  and  dates,  the  evidence  that  I  had  really 
visited  the  places  named  first. 

On  the  reverse  side  of  this  parchment  I  had  obtained 
the  official  signature  of  Deodora  Fonseca,  First  Presi- 
dent of  Brazil,  with  that  of  Justo  Chermont,  the  Gov- 
ernor of  the  State  of  Para,  and  Roberto,  Governor  of 
the  State  of  Amazonas,  (all  in  Brazil),  the  sub-Prefect 
of  the  provinces  of  Peru,  at  Iquitos,  Yurrimaguas,  Tara- 
pota,  each  of  whom  had  placed  their  official  seal  upon 
the  paper  up  to  that  time.  Subsequently  the  list  was  in- 
creased as  we  advanced  to  Moyabamba,  Chachapoyas 
and  Cajamarca  on  this  route,  and  finally  by  the  United 
States  Minister  at  Lima. 

An  official  passport  is  probably  printed  on  stiffer 
paper  and  perhaps  worded  a  little  stronger  than  the 
ordinary  document,  enclosed  in  a  large  blue  envelope, 
covered  with  addresses  and  several  ounces  of  red  seal- 
ing wax.  This  was  handed  to  the  Napo  to  present  to 
the  Governador,  which  part  of  the  trick  he  played  with 
considerable  style  and  dignity,  and  an  Indian  can  be 
dignified,  handing  it  in  before  the  assembled  natives, 


250  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

and  at  request  of  the  Governador,  translating  that  part 
I  had  indicated  about  safe  conduct.  It  had  the  desired 
effect.  The  Governador  came  out  to  meet  me,  courte- 
ously offering  to  do  all  he  could  for  me.  Subsequently 
I  had  the  Napo  emphasize  the  translating  of  other 
papers  which  secured  us  all  we  required.  So  it  hap- 
pened that  the  passport  was  useful  amongst  a  lot  of 
drunken  fanatics. 

The  Napo,  as  usual,  got  in  his  little  work  on  the 
Indians  by  relating  the  incident  of  the  old  grandad 
shooting  over  his  head.  He  made  out,  as  I  afterwards 
learned,  that  the  old  Indian  had  attempted  to  kill  me, 
and  as  the  passport  had  magnified  my  importance,  the 
Governador  had  the  old  man  carried  off  to  the  town 
jail.  The  Napo  explained  that  it  would  not  hurt  the 
old  man  but  would  scare  the  sons  and  the  rest  of  the 
Indians  who  would  get  to  know  of  it.  On  this  plea  I 
let  it  pass,  but  before  leaving  made  peace  and  friends 
with  all  by  interceding  for  the  release  of  the  old  man, 
on  condition  that  he  return  to  Lamas. 

My  horse  was  to  be  returned  to  Lamas  from  this 
point,  it  being  understood  that  I  would  get  a  remount 
at  Tabalosa,  to  Moyabamba,  but  we  were  told  no 
horses  could  be  obtained  for  some  days,  and  rather 
than  stay  over  night  in  the  village,  I  determined  to  go 
ahead  on  foot,  a  tramp  of  five  or  six  days  over  the  first 
real  Andes  to  the  valley  and  town  of  Moyabamba. 

The  Governador  kindly  sent  as  escort  out  of  town 
one  of  his  *' judges,"  as  the  old  men  are  called,  who 
carry  staffs  as  a  mace  of  authority,  who  took  us  beyond 
the  town,  not,  however,  without  a  most  bewailing  ap- 
peal to  me  from  Atlas — to  be  allowed  to  take  one — just 


A  TABALOSA  TEMPTER  251 

one  drink  from  a  tempter  in  the  form  of  a  girl  that 
followed  us  out  of  the  village. 


CKAPTEE  XVn. 


HE  natives  of  certain  portions  of  fluvial 
Amazonas,  better  known  as  the  Mon- 
tana or  wooded  country  of  Peru,  do 
not  know  the  immense  blue  moun- 
tains eternally  in  their  sight,  by  our 
familiar  geographical  name  of  the 
Andes. 
In  reply  to  numerous  inquiries  as  to  the  Andes,  the 
better  informed  of  all  the  people  gave  the  same  answer, 
as  they  pointed  toward  the  distant,  snow-capped  peaks, 
*' Cordilleras, "  pronouncing  the  word  with  a  rever- 
ential emphasis  of  astonishment  at  my  ignorance — • 
*'Cor-de-lay-ras" — with  the  accent  on  the  syllable 
*'lay."  This,  I  believe,  means  ''The  place  where  the 
snow  comes,"  and  does  not  refer  to  the  "foothills  of 
the  Andes,"  as  is  popularly  supposed. 

Each  of  the  innumerable  points,  or  round  tops,  have 
distinct  Indian  names,  significantly  descriptive  of  their 
appearance,  but  a  knowledge  of  phonetics  would  not 
enable  one  to  get  them  down  in  a  shorthand  notebook. 
There  are  three  distinct  great  mountain  ranges  par- 
alleling this  portion  of  South  America  nearest  to  the 
Pacific,  similar  to  our  Sierra  Nevada  or  Coast  Range, 
and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  figuratively  speaking, 
seem  to  have  been  gathered  in  at  the  Isthmus  like  a 
string  tied  to  the  centre  of  several  bags  that  spread 
themselves  out  again  at  both  ends,  forming  three  im- 
jnense  chains  of  high  peaks,  each  range  being  separated 

253 


THE  THREE  RANGES  OF  ANDES    253 

by  great  valleys  or  plateaus,  which  are  miles  upon 
miles,  or  weeks  of  travel,  distant  from  mountain  to 
mountain. 

The  ranges  are  farthest  apart  nearest  to  the  Equator, 
along  on  the  latitude  or  line  of  our  journey  across  the 
continent,  which  it  will  be  observed,  was  undertaken  at 
the  widest  part. 

All  the  climates  of  the  earth  are  to  be  found  in  this 
Land  of  To-Morrow,  with  the  modifying  influences  of 
latitude  and  difference  in  elevation  from  the  Montana 
to  the  Sierra,  4,000  to  9,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  to  the 
Puna  between  the  Central  and  Eastern  Cordilleras,  at  an 
altitude  of  10,000  to  14,000  feet,  too  high  and  cold  for 
any  dense  vegetation,  a  dreary  region  with  a  cheerless 
atmosphere.  The  Sierra,  on  the  contrary,  possesses  a 
charming  climate. 

The  first  evening  of  the  tramp  from  Tabalosa  we 
found  our  camp  on  a  tangled,  wooded  hillside,  over- 
looking a  stream  of  water  running  at  the  base  of  the 
first  of  the  three  Andes. 

At  the  time  it  was  felt  to  be  a  misfortune  that  we 
were  unable  to  secure  a  relay  or  remount  of  horses  or 
mules  at  Tabalosa,  but  in  the  sense  of  looking  back- 
ward, it  turned  out  for  the  best,  as  the  walk  afforded 
an  experience  and  opportunity  for  observation  during 
a  five  days'  tramp  over  the  first  range,  that  we  would 
not  have  appreciated  so  highly  from  the  backs  of  mules. 

The  trail  across  the  continent  is  divided  into  the 
several  sections  suitable  for  tramping,  riding  on  the 
back  of  an  Indian  or  mule,  and  in  some  few  places 
nearer  the  Pacific,  mountain  ponies  or  native  horses 
may  be  used. 


254  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

After  an  experience  with  all  of  these,  the  conclusion 
was  that  one  could  make  as  good  time  on  the  rough 
trail  on  foot  as  when  mounted.  The  Indians  never 
ride,  and  with  immense  packs  on  their  backs,  will  keep 
pace  all  day  with  riding  mules.  Horses  are  a  little 
quicker,  perhaps,  but  not  so  reliable  and  sure  of  foot 
as  are  Indians  and  mules. 

After  the  affair  of  the  first  day,  and  the  scare  at 
Tabalosa,  my  quota  of  Indians  improved  every  day  of 
our  acquaintance.  But  the  heavy,  lubberly  guide  on 
foot,  became  a  drag.  He  had  loafed  so  much  in  civi- 
lized towns,  without  exercise,  that  he  became  fat  and 
lazy  as  well  as  saucy. 

The  two  little  boys,  each  with  a  pack  on  his  back  like 
their  father,  got  along  lively,  chattering  and  laughing 
as  they  ran  like  a  couple  of  school  boys  out  for  a  day's 
picnicking  in  the  woods.  They  kept  close  by  me  dur- 
ing the  day's  tramp,  probably  because  the  ''padrone" 
entered  with  boyish  zest  into  their  fun. 

Their  company  was  a  pleasant  relief,  and  to  enter- 
tain them  it  was  my  habit  to  fire  my  revolver  at  a 
mark  which  they  would  indicate,  and  being  a  fair 
shot,  they  would  jump  with  delight  at  the  execution. 
One  boy  usually  walked  ahead  and  one  behind,  so  that 
every  movement  attracted  their  attention.  One  day 
the  larger  boy,  bj  his  pantomimic  g^estures^  dir6<3t€d  my 
gaze  to  a  hanging  nest  resembling  that  of  a  |arg«  bird. 
"Whipping  out  my  pistol,  I  fired  into  the  nest  to  gratify 
them.  They  laughed  and  shouted  with  delight  on  see- 
ing from  the  commotion  that  I  had  made  a  hit ;  but  in 
a  moment  both  of  them,  with  wild  gesticulations,  urged 
me  to  shoot  some  more.     We  had  stirred  up  a  hornet  '§ 


TWO  LITTLE  INDIAN  BOYS  255 

nest  and  the  boys  expected  my  pistol  balls  to  kill  each 
one  of  the  pestiferous  things.  On  refusing  to  waste  my 
ammunition  on  hundreds  of  individual  hornets,  each 
little  Indian  threw  a  blanket  over  his  head,  and  motion- 
ing for  me  to  do  likewise,  they  started  to  run.  Although 
very  tired,  we  three  hooded  boys  ran  up  the  hill  as 
lively  as  if  just  starting  out. 

We  were  received  into  camp  by  the  father  of  the 
little  fellows,  who,  while  swearing  at  me  in  Indian, 
used  a  brush  of  leaves  to  drive  off  our  pursuers, 
and  then — while  his  hand  was  in — vigorously  thrashed 
the  boys  with  the  same  twigs.  Being  half-naked, 
they  suffered  from  the  escapade  more  than  I  did,  but 
the  affair  made  lots  of  fun  for  the  boys — and  me  too — 
when  it  was  over. 

While  the  father  and  brother  prepared  supper  the 
Indian  boys  gathered  wood  for  the  all-night  fire  neces- 
sary for  comfort  in  that  altitude,  and  also  for  protec- 
tion against  lurking  wild  beasts. 

The  odor  of  the  baked  or  roasted  chicken — which  we 
had  been  carrying  for  a  few  days — indicated  that  it 
was  spoiling.  Instead  of  throwing  it  away,  the  Indians 
insisted  upon  stewing  the  tainted  chicken  with  onions, 
or  sa-bo-lios,  as  they  are  called,  which  absorbed  the 
bad  flavor,  and  the  stew  was  served  hot  with  the  appe- 
tizing fragrance  of  the  onions. 

While  enjoying,  in  a  retired  plaoe,  a  bath  m  the  fcool 
water  of  a  stream  running  below  the  hill— so  gratefuJ 
to  the  tired  tramp — the  curious  boys,  discovering  my 
retreat  unceremoniously  joined  me.  They  were  so 
amazed  at  beholding  my  white  skin  that  they  seemed 
to   forget   their   own   brown-skinned   nakedness  ajad 


256  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

showed  an  irresistible  inclination  to  get  close  enough 
to  see  and  feel  if  it  were  really  flesh  and  blood.  One 
would  poke  me  in  the  ribs  with  his  fingers  and  then 
rub  his  hands  over  my  skin.  Being  very  ticklish,  and 
as  ridiculously  sensative  in  a  bath  as  a  girl — and  per- 
haps somewhat  modest  for  a  veteran — I  nervously  at- 
tempted to  defend  myself  from  their  exaggerated  cur- 
iosity, but  this  exhibition  of  nervousness  on  my  part 
caused  them  to  laugh  hilariously  and  excited  them  to 
even  greater  interest  in  my  appearance.  The  face  and 
hands  being  the  only  parts  of  my  body  previously 
exposed,  they  had  become  quite  as  tanned  or  sunburned 
as  their  own,  and  the  Indians  no  doubt  supposed  that 
all  of  my  body  would  be  similarly  reddened. 

As  usual,  the  location  for  our  camp  had  been  cleared 
of  any  underbrush  that  might  afford  concealment  for 
snakes  or  other  creeping  things,  attracted  to  such  spots 
by  the  scent  of  provisions.  The  place  was  also  burnt 
over  to  destroy  insects. 

My  camp  bed  had  been  made  up  a  little  apart  from 
the  rest,  a  compliment  which  I  did  not  appreciate,  but 
I  easily  prevailed  upon  the  Indian  boys  to  lie  on  the 
ground  on  each  side  of  me,  feeling  that  under  such  con- 
ditions misery  loves  company,  and  incidentally  pro- 
tection. 

On  account  of  the  yellow  tropical  moonlight  I  slept 
little  until  morning.  All  was  quiet,  so  oppressively 
quiet  the  odor  of  the  forest  was  heavy  as  we  lay 
wrapped  in  our  blankets,  dreaming  of  home  on  the 
other  side  of  the  world  or  gazing  into  the  starry  sky, 
phosphorescently  lighted  by  the  moon,  its  beams — as 
it  sailed  along — seemed  to  fairly  rustle  the  leaves  of  the 


MOONLIGHT  ON  THE  ANDES  257 

trees  as  if  in  an  effort  to  peer  through  the  dense  foliage 
in  search  of  us. 

Next  morning,  bright  and  early,  finding  that  I  slept, 
the  Indians  were  around  piling  on  more  fuel,  and  I 
therefore  enjoyed  a  final  ''forty  winks."  These  logs 
burned  down  and  left  the  glowing  coals  on  which  our 
coffee  was  made.  The  Indian  will  sit  alongside  of  a 
smoking  fire,  with  his  head  between  his  knees,  and 
at  once  drop  into  a  sound  sleep,  remaining  in  a  sitting 
posture  until  the  cold  awakens  him  to  renewed  exertion. 

We  began  the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  which  was  a 
continuous  climb  over  a  narrow,  rocky  camino  or  trail ; 
up  one  hill  and  down  another,  into  valleys  at  the  bot- 
tom of  which  were  running  streams  so  large  as  to  be 
forded  with  difficulty. 

Although  it  was  pleasantly  cool  at  night,  we  found 
it  quite  hot  at  mid-day,  even  on  the  mountains. 

As  we  reached  the  tops  of  several  spurs  we  expected 
to  look  beyond  into  the  valley,  into  which  we  would 
descend;  but  each  of  these  smaller  summits  when 
reached  became  a  sore  disappointment,  for  we  realized 
that  our  climb  had  only  been  one  step  toward  gaining 
the  grand  summit. 

With  a  feeling  of  discouragement  we  pressed  for- 
ward, each  descent  being  a  little  less,  and  then  crossing 
another  stream,  we  would  begin  another  almost  perpen- 
dicular climb  of  the  adjoining  hills. 

Atlas,  who  carried  the  trunk,  was  usually  in  the 
lead  of  our  caravan.  Laboriously  reaching  a  summit, 
I  would  find  my  trunk  on  the  ground  and  Atlas  lying 
somewhere  near  fast  asleep ;  but  he  was  alwaj^s  willing 
to  start  off  cheerfully  when  the  others  were  ready. 


258  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

During  the  first  day's  ascent  we  did  not  reach  an 
elevation  sufficiently  high  to  admit  of  our  obtaining  the 
grand  views  that  we  had  had  before  and  that  so  gen- 
erously compensated  us  for  our  exhaustion  by  the  cor- 
responding elevation  of  our  drooping  spirits. 

The  Indian  boys  stuck  to  my  heels  like  affectionate 
hunting  dogs.  When  we  would  stop  under  the  shade 
for  a  rest  they  would  disappear  into  the  thickets, 
returning  in  a  short  time  with  gourds  filled  with  cold 
water.  One  of  the  pleasant  features  of  that  country  is 
the  great  abundance  of  clear,  pure  water  that  one  may 
find  almost  everywhere. 

The  little  fellows  seemed  to  think  that  the  white  man 
was  always  tired  and  needed  a  drink  of  water  every 
time  he  sat  down  and  they  invariably  scampered  away 
to  bring  it. 

When  very  warm  from  exertion  it  was  my  custom  to 
bare  my  arms  and  pour  cold  water  over  the  wrists 
before  drinking.  They  would  look  on  in  surprise,  the 
sight  of  blue  veins  throbbing  through  the  white  skin  of 
my  wrists  seemed  to  fascinate  them. 

In  going  down  the  camino  through  one  of  the 
numerous  valleys,  we  had  a  little  fun  with  a  party  of 
six  or  eight  Indians,  accompanied  by  women,  whom  we 
encountered  coming  from  the  opposite  direction.  This 
trail  was  simply  a  cow  path  scarcely  a  foot  in  width, 
with  a  mountain  on  one  side  and  a  precipice  on  the 
other.  A  long  discussion  as  to  which  party  should 
have  the  right  of  way  ended  in  both  companies  sitting 
down  to  hold  their  own. 

The  party  of  Indians  was  preceded  by  a  mule 
.almost  concealed  beneath   a  pack  that   would  have 


CLEARING  AN  OBSTRUCTION  259 

crowded  anyone  attempting  to  dispute  his  passage  over 
the  precipice. 

The  Indian  boys  proposed  a  settlement  of  the  diffi- 
culty by  pantomiming  to  me  to  shoot  the  mule.  This, 
of  course,  I  would  not  dare  do,  and  I  soon  found  out 
from  their  grinning  and  comical  gesticulations  that 
^ey  meant  for  me  merely  to  frighten  the  Indians  by 
firing  the  gun.  Entering  into  their  humor,  and  not  in- 
tending to  do  any  damage,  I  stood  close  by  the  mule's 
ears  and  fired  into  the  air.  If  I  had  bored  a  hole 
through  his  big  ear  I  could  not  have  caused  a  more  suc- 
cessful stampede.  He  jumped  and  ran  straight  up  a 
bank  that  I  could  not  possibly  have  climbed,  scattering 
his  pack  through  the  thicket  as  he  ran  and  closely  fol- 
lowed by  the  whole  party  of  badly  scared  Indians. 

We  at  once  took  advantage  of  the  excitement  and  the 
clear  track  and  hurried  along,  the  young  scamps  laugh- 
ing uproariously  at  the  success  of  their  idea,  which 
also  met  with  the  smiling  approval  of  the  big  Indians. 

Toward  evening  we  reached  the  smouldering  fires  of 
the  deserted  camp  of  this  same  band.  Our  Indians 
wanted  to  stop,  but  if  there  is  anything  an  old  veteran 
cordially  dislikes  it  is  to  be  compelled  to  occupy  a 
deserted  camp;  and  when  it  comes  to  an  Indian  camp, 
the  objections  increase  a  thousand  fold.  I  therefore 
insisted  on  going  forward  until  nightfall,  when^  we 
camped  alongside  of  a  roaring  stream  of  water,  to  the 
music  of  which  we  all  slept  so  soundly  that  the  moon 
could  not  disturb  our  slumbers. 

The  morning  sun  revealed  a  lovely  valley,  blooming 
in  purple  and  orange.  We  had  unconsciously  slept  in 
a  garden  of  the  most  beautiful  wild  flowers. 


260  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

During  these  days  of  toilsome  tramping  I  saw  but 
little  of  the  Napo,  who  invariably  brought  up  the  rear, 
while  I  was  in  advance  with  the  boys. 

Atlas,  who  carried  the  heaviest  burdens,  never  seemed 
to  tire.  Indians  bend  their  bodies  forward  at  an 
angle  that  seems  to  balance  the  load  on  their  backs. 
To  steady  themselves  they  use  a  stick  like  an  Alpine 
stock.  I  cut  one  for  myself,  but  after  using  it  just 
one  day  my  hand  was  so  blistered  by  the  perspiration 
and  the  friction  that  I  was  compelled  to  dress  it  with  a 
handkerchief  for  protection. 

We  reached  at  last  a  summit  so  elevated  that  we 
could  look  backward  over  the  tops  of  the  smaller  spurs 
over  which  we  had  been  climbing,  and  forward  to  those 
we  knew  we  must  cross  before  we  could  reach  the  great 
valley  that  lay  just  beyond. 

From  this  point  there  is  a  wonderful  backbone — as 
it  were — that  connected  the  mountain  top  we  were  on 
with  another  peak  and  it  was  not  necessary  to  make 
a  long  descent  into  the  valley  and  ascend  the  other  side. 

The  hunchback  is  in  appearance  quite  like  an  im- 
mense fill  of  earth,  such  as  would  have  been  made  by  a 
good  railway  to  cross  a  great  valley.  The  roadway,  a 
trail  on  the  top,  is  quite  level  but  somewhat  tortuous, 
being  several  miles  in  length.  We  could  see  far  ahead 
of  us  the  trail  outlined  through  the  rather  sparse 
growth  of  pines  and  palms  of  this  altitude. 

On  reaching  this  summit  of  the  first  of  the  three 
Andes,  tired,  footsore  and  almost  exhausted  from  the 
tedious  tramp,  I  became  so  exhilarated  with-  the 
grandeur  and  magnitude  of  the  scene  spread  out  before 
my  tired  eyes,  and  so  invigorated  with  the  ozone  in 


ON  THE  SUMMIT  261 

the  pure  air,  that  my  inclination  was  to  shout  or  yell 
like  an  Indian  on  the  war  path.  An  occasional  exhibi- 
tion of  pent-up  enthusiasm  reached  the  ears  of  Atlas 
and  the  two  boys,  who  came  running  towards  me  as 
though  they  thought  I  needed  help,  I  could  not 
explain  to  them  my  feelings,  but  contented  myself  with 
pointing  in  the  direction  of  the  lovely  green  valleys  in 
the  distance  to  which  we  were  bound.  But  they,  poor, 
dense,  stolid  souls  could  not  appreciate  the  beautiful 
picture,  the  sight  of  which  in  its  grandeur  would  have 
inspired  any  sensitive  being  with  admiration  and 
rapture. 

Perhaps  the  rarefied  atmosphere  may  exert  an  influ- 
ence in  this  direction  upon  the  human  temperament, 
but  certain  it  is,  that  if  a  man  with  a  soul  almost  dead- 
ened were  placed  amid  such  surroundings  and  breathed 
this,  the  very  purest  air, while  feasting  his  eyes  upon  the 
glories  of  nature  as  seen  here,  he  would  be  brought 
back  to  the  point  where  he  would  again  take  a  lively 
interest  in  life. 

Under  such  influences  and  amid  such  environments 
one  does  not  care  to  speak,  neither  can  the  feelings  of 
awe  be  described,  but  reverently  lifting  my  hat  in 
acknowledgment  of  the  great  Creator,  I  breathed  a 
silent  prayer  of  gratitude  and  moved  forward  greatly 
revived  and  strengthened. 

(Turning  to  my  notebook,  I  find  these  words  under 
date  of  September  9th :  '  *  What  a  wonderful  picture  on 
all  sides.  The  Yosemite,  the  Yellowstone,  and  the 
Alps  combined!  The  traveller  should  come  to  the 
Andes  to  get  proof  of  the  existence  of  a  great  Creator, 


262  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

instead  of  going  to  the  Holy  Land.  Great  God!  what 
a  view!") 

On  these  mountain  tops  the  vegetation  assumes  a 
different  form  to  that  of  the  tropical  valleys  or  lower 
altitudes.  We  passed  quantities  of  small  pineapples 
growing  on  their  cactas  like  plants.  As  we  got  higher 
the  palm  gave  way  to  a  species  of  pine  tree ;  but  we  did 
not  get  above  vegetation  on  this  range.  There  are 
points  or  peaks  still  higher  than  this  trail  that  are 
inaccessible.  On  these  higher  places  there  is  no  vegeta- 
tion, and  snow  lies  perpetually  in  the  deep  valleys.  It 
is  the  melting  of  this  snow  that  supplies  the  abundance 
of  clear,  cold  water  always  found  on  the  adjoining 
mountains. 

After  crossing  the  switchback  we  looked  beyond  and 
saw,  apparently  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  the  won- 
derfully beautiful  IVfoyabamba  valley. 

It  was  yet  over  a  day's  travel  in  distance.  If  we 
might  have  taken  wings  we  could  have  dropped  down 
into  its  welcoming  loveliness  in  an  hour,  but  it  was 
necessary  to  suffer  another  day's  penance  and  a  night 
at  the  gates  before  we  could  enter  the  sequestered  city. 

W^e  descended  gradually  into  a  small  valley  and 
crossed  on  a  foot-log  a  babbling  brook  of  clear  water. 
There  were  speckled  trout  beauties  in  the  brook  that 
were  not  afraid  to  be  seen  by  man.  We  bathed  our 
swollen  feet,  and  in  the  exuberance  of  our  gratitude 
and  joy  that  we  were  so  soon  to  rest  at  Moyabamba, 
gave  each  of  the  Indians  a  grog  of  cachasa.  They  told 
us  me  must  go  faster  if  we  wished  to  reach  the  village 
the  day  following. 

We  accordingly  started  off  at  a  good  gait  through 


A  VISTA  OP  ARCADIA  263 

the  valleys,  traversing  a  narrow,  sandy  path  cut  like 
a  swath  in  a  corn  field,  through  miles  and  miles  of 
bamboo  and  cane.  We  had  suddenly  come  upon  an 
entire  change  of  scene. 

From  the  tops  of  the  Easterly  Andes — from  which 
we  apparently  had  "had  a  view  of  a  large  portion  of  the 
earth's  surface — surrounded  by  palms  and  pine  trees, 
and  invigorated  by  the  cool  breezes,  we  had  dropped 
suddenly  into  a  valley  where  our  path  lay  through  a 
thicket  of  bamboo  so  dense  that  scarcely  a  breath  of 
air  could  penetrate  to  relieve  the  oppressiveness.  Our 
only  view  was  upward  toward  the  clear  blue  sky,  from 
which  the  sun  sent  its  intense  heat  straight  down  upon 
our  heads. 

When  we  reached  the  further  foothill,  like  a  step 
down  on  the  western  side  of  the  Andes,  we  were  so 
exhausted  that  we  were  all  glad  enough  to  make  an 
early  and  last  camp  before  reaching  our  relay. 

As  usual,  the  camp  was  located  near  a  stream  of 
water.  Preferring  to  sleep  out  of  doors  in  a  perfectly 
safe,  but  what  might  be  called  an  isolated  or  indepen- 
dent location  somewhat  removed  from  the  snoring 
Indians,  I  selected  a  knoll  so  close  to  the  edge  of  a 
cliff  overhanging  the  running  water  that  the  Indian 
boys  made  my  bed  reluctantly,  gesticulating  their  ap- 
prehension that  the  ''padrone"  would  roll  into  the 
water  below. 

This  trip  across  the  continent,  though  laborious  and 
rough,  was — in  respect  to  travel  in  that  land — first- 
class.  The  Indians  did  all  the  work,  making  and 
carrying  the  beds,  and  even  serving  me  with  coffee 
before  I  would  rise. 


264  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  Indians  are  in  effect  peons  or  slaves  to  their 
Spanish  Peruvian  military  masters.  In  their  atten- 
tions to  me  they  were  simply  complying  with  their 
training  and  early  instruction.  All  was  done  willingly 
and  with  apparent  enjoyment  on  their  part,  that  made 
it  pleasant  for  me. 

This  fact  will  bear  repeating — that  the  Indian  of 
South  America  is  docile  and  submissive  to  a  degree 
bordering  on  servility.  He  is  also  stupid,  and  per- 
haps treacherous,  respecting  the  person  he  serves  as 
his  master  or  superior,  because  he  fears  him. 

Experience  has  proven  that  all  missionary  attempts 
to  lift  him  to  an  equality,  or  even  beyond  a  certain  de- 
gree of  intelligence,  has  always  resulted  unsuccessfully. 

It  is  a  rough  comparison,  but  a  most  expressive  one, 
to  liken  the  lower  class  Indian  to  a  hog.  He  is 
supremely  indifferent  to  any  feeling  of  sentiment.  If 
you  give  him  food  he  will  eat  it  like  a  hog  under  the 
acorn  tree,  who  swallows  the  acorns  but  never  looks  up 
to  see  where  they  come  from.  The  Indian,  however, 
will  always  divide  his  last  meal  with  another,  not 
possessing  the  civilized  ''virtue"  of  ingratitude. 

If  you  kick  him  he  will  only  grunt,  and  lick  the 
hand  that  strikes  him.  I  did  not  entertain  any  philan- 
thropic ideas  on  the  subject,  my  association  with  those 
who  travelled  with  me  being  successful  on  the  general 
principle  that  they  respected  me  because  they  feared 
me.  I  always  treated  them  kindly  but  sternly,  as  I 
would  an  animal  that  served  me  faithfully,  not  as  a 
pet  dog,  but  as  the  horse,  man's  best  friend.  As  com- 
panions, I  sincerely  became  fond  of  some  of  them,  be- 
lieving that  in  adversity  they  could  be  better  relied 


FOREST  NOISES  265 

upon,  perhaps,  than  some  of  our  missionary  friends 
with  whose  doctrines  we  might  not  agree  conscien- 
tiously and  who  would  probably  abandon  their  dearest 
friends  from  principle  or  a  sense  of  religious  duty. 

An  Indian,  or  a  dog,  or  a  horse  will  stick  close  to  his 
master  when  all  are  hungry  or  in  distress,  without  any 
regard  to  principle,  or  whether  it  is  right  or  wrong. 

Being  very  tired  I  lay  down  on  my  cot  and  was 
asleep  before  it  was  dark,  but  early  in  the  night  I  was 
awakened  as  from  a  dream  by  some  cries  in  the  forest 
that  sounded  so  like  human  voices  that  I  awakened  the 
Indians,  thinking  perhaps  that  the  two  boys  were  lost 
and  crying  for  assistance.  My  apprehensions  were  re- 
lieved, however,  by  the  two  little  fellows  suddenly 
bobbing  upright  in  their  blankets,  reminding  me 
forcibly  of  ''Jacks  in  a  box." 

At  the  sound  of  my  voice  the  noises  had  ceased,  so 
that  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I  accounted  for  the 
cause  of  my  alarm.  The  Indians  finally  got  the  Napo 
wide  enough  awake  to  explain  to  me  that  I  had  simply 
heard  the  cry  of  a  leopard  or  wild  cat  of  the  tiger 
species.  Being  thus  pleasantly  reassured,  we  lay  down 
again  to  wakeful  dreams,  while  the  bright  moon  of  the 
early  morning  shed  its  refulgent  beams  through  the 
rich  foliage,  making  shadowy  pictures  resembling  wild 
beasts  crouching  among  the  trees.  This  prevented  my 
sleeping  until  nearly  morning,  when  one  of  the  Indians 
getting  cold,  crawled  out  to  stir,  up  the  fire.  He  fin- 
ished his  nap  in  the  warmth  of  the  blazing  logs,  and  I 
then  felt  secure,  and  closing  my  eyes,  I  took  another 
''forty  winks." 

The  Sunday  morning  of  our  last  day's  tramp  opened 


266  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

up  bright  and  beautiful.  The  path  lay  over  a  small 
spur  of  the  mountain;  the  air  was  invigorating,  the 
surroundings  picturesque,  the  trees  rich  in  tropical 
loveliness,  and  the  early  birds  seemed  to  note  and  join 
in  our  happiness. 

In  tropical  countries  the  birds  do  not  sing  much,  but 
in  the  Land  of  To-Morrow  they  sing  both  day  and 
night. 

Perhaps  weirdly  beautiful  and  genuinely  operatic 
effects  might  be  obtained  by  lovers  of  music,  or  those 
who  have  souls  for  the  beautiful,  by  the  portrayal  of  a 
moonlight  scene  on  the  Andes:  the  solemn  stillness  of 
the  entrancing  situation  being  disturbed  only  by  the 
pretty,  plaintive  songs  of  the  night  birds,  as  they  sing 
their  notes  of  love  to  each  other  from  the  waving  palms, 
the  bass  voices  of  large  animals  serving  as  a  sort  of 
accompaniment. 

It  goes  without  saying  in  this  Land  of  To-Morrow 
that  the  rough  travelling  and  hardships  of  every  day's 
journey  are  made  endurable  by  the  always  present  and 
ever  grateful  sight  of  myriads  of  lovely  flowers,  and 
rare  birds  and  butterflies.  Almost  every  breeze  is  laden 
with  the  delicious  perfume  of  the  flowers,  which 
bring  to  the  tired  and  sometimes  almost  exhausted 
traveller,  not  only  cheers  and  encourages,  but  invig- 
orates like  a  stimulant. 

It  is  a  land  to  which  naturalists — especially  botanists 
— are  sent  by  the  Scientific  Societies  of  Germany, 
France  and  England  to  collect  specimens  and  to  pursue 
their  studies.  It  has  been  a  surprise  to  meet  foreigners 
of  the  scientific  class,  who  spend  years  in  the  forests  in 
search  of  special  prizes  in  their  lines. 


FOREIGN  NATURALISTS  AND  BOTANISTS  267 

Cultured  gentlemen  come  out  from  England  and 
France  fully  equipped  for  the  collection  of  orchids 
alone,  which  they  prepare  and  ship  to  those  countries 
at  great  expense,  but  one  never  meets  with  an  American 
scientist.  Professor  Orton,  whose  bones  rest  near  Lake 
Titicaca,  and  whose  excellent  book  has  so  long  been  out 
of  print,  and  like  the  author,  it  is  almost  forgotten  by 
his  own  countrymen,  was  the  only  American  scientist 
ever  heard  of  in  those  regions. 

When  I  have  talked  to  my  American  friends  on  the 
subject  of  American  enterprise  or  the  pursuit  of  scien- 
tific knowledge,  the  first  question  propounded  was,  '*Is 
there  any  money  in  it?"  and  if  the  subject  be  pursued 
they  will  demand  to  know  what  I  **am  after."  When 
I  explain  my  research  for  rubber  insulation  for  this 
electric  age,  they  usually  add  the  comforting  assurance 
that  ''There  is  no  use  writing  books  about  it,  as  there 
is  no  money  to  be  made  out  of  books." 

I  mention  these  things  to  indicate  that  in  scientific 
research,  as  well  as  scientific  business  enterprise,  the 
Frenchman,  the  German,  or  the  Englishman  is  in  ad- 
vance of  the  American  in  the  industries  of  gathering 
the  rich  harvest  to  be  found  in  the  tropical  forests  for 
use  in  materia  medica. 

It  is  a  business  fact,  that  French  and  English  florists 
are  making  a  great  deal  of  money  from  the  collection 
of  rare  and  beautiful  orchids — anything  that  is  beau- 
tiful being  useful. 

These  tropical  valleys  are  the  home  of  the  orchids,  the 
varieties  of  the  upper  forests  being  superior  to  those 
of  the  swamps,  and  much  better  adapted  for  trans- 
planting in  our  climate. 


268 


THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 


One  with  knowledge 
and  experience  and  tact- 
ful with  the  Indians  could 
collect  specimens  that 
would  bring  probably 
thousands  of  dollars;  but 
without  knowledge  an  am- 
ateur might  duplicate  at 
great  expense  a  common 
variety  of  the  numerous 
parasites  (or  as  they  say 
it,  *' para-see-tees")  that 
grow  profusely  in  this 
land. 

Only  the  edges  of  the 
great  forests  have  been  ex- 
plored. What  lies  in  the 
hundreds  of  miles  of  dense 
growth  beyond,  no  white  man  knows — but  is  a  rich 
harvest  of  orchids  alone,  without  mentioning  its  other 
and  greater  wealth  of  medicinal  wonders,  woods,  dyes, 
etc. 

The  birds  also  are  a  study  for  the  scientist.  They 
are  of  various  kinds  and  as  prolific  as  may  be  imagined 
in  a  land  of  eternal  summer,  where  migration  is  not 
essential  and  where  the  sportsman  ^s  cruel  work  is  un- 
known. The  plumage  of  many  of  them  seems  to  take 
on  the  varied  coloring  of  the  tropical  flowers  in  the 
tangled  thickets.  Under  the  deep  shadows  one  will 
see  birds  that  resemble  flowers,  swinging  on  the  end  of 
a  twig,  and  also  flowers  that  resemble  the  feathers  of 
birds. 


A  Bird  of  Paradise 


BUTTERFLIES  AND  BIRDS  269 

Numerous  varieties  of  large  butterflies  lazily  spread 
their  wings  as  if  to  proudly  exhibit  their  gorgeous  color- 
ing. One  is  tempted  to  chase  the  butterflies,  but  the 
undergrowth  is  so  dense  that  without  protection,  it 
would  be  unsafe  to  wander  far  from  the  narrow  trail. 

On  the  affluents  of  the  lower  Amazon  I  met  two 
brothers  from  North  Carolina,  who  lived  in  their  canoes 
and  who  made  a  business  of  shooting  the  white 
heron  from  which  the  rare  aigrette  feathers  are  ob- 
tained. These  are  worth,  literally,  their  weight  in  gold, 
being  valued  at  from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  an  ounce. 
This  statement  may  seem  like  an  exaggeration,  but  I  am 
giving  facts  obtained  from  shipments  of  sworn  valua- 
tion to  Consular  invoices  that  passed  through  my 
hands,  after  the  brothers  had  been  detected  in  smug- 
gling aigrette  feathers  through  the  mails. 

I  mailed  tufts  of  the  aigrette  feathers  to  lady  friends, 
some  of  whom  would  have  preferred  a  parrot  or  a 
monkey,  which  are  as  common  as  cats  or  chickens  in 
our  country. 

On  the  last  walk  the  first  part  of  the  trail  led  through 
a  dense  forest  covering  the  last  of  the  mountain  spurs. 
Our  camino  was  the  usual  narrow  swath  through  the 
underbrush,  worn  by  the  continuous  tramping  of  the 
barefooted  natives  travelling  for  decades  between  Moy- 
abamba  and  Lamas  or  Tarapota.  If  it  were  not  con- 
stantly used  it  would  soon  become  obscured  by  the  trop- 
ical growth  of  shrubbery. 

Crossing  our  path  at  almost  right  angles  I  saw  an- 
other trail,  smaller,  but  even  more  distinctly  and  clearly 
defined,  though  scarcely  four  inches  in  width.  It  was 
made  by  aflts,  who  travelled  it  in  such  numbers  that  not 


270  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

even  a  blade  of  grass  could  grow  on  the  trail.  The  line 
of  their  march  extended  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
in  gracefully  curved  lines  that  would  be  the  envy  of 
engineers  locating  for  a  railway.  What  prompts  the 
ants  to  make  and  maintain  these  long  roads  through 
the  forests  I  leave  to  the  scientists.  The  Indians  do  not 
know,  but  they  realize  that  it  is  of  no  more  use  to 
attempt  to  break  up  their  line  of  communication  than  it 
would  be  to  stop  the  flow  of  a  river.  They  simply  let 
them  alone  severely.  In  that  country,  where  customs 
are  so  generally  reversed,  the  sluggard  does  not  go  to 
the  ant — the  ant  comes  to  him,  in  great  numbers — if 
he  attempts  to  molest  them. 

On  this  day  I  saw  the  largest  snake  of  the  trip,  and 
if  it  was  not  quite  as  large  as  a  telegraph  pole,  it  was 
ugly  and  big  enough  to  be  called  a  boa. 

My  attention  was  first  called  to  a  little  animal  like 
a  squirrel,  chirruping  at  the  base  of  a  tree.  In  cautiously 
approaching,  with  cocked  revolver,  to  get  a  closer  shot 
at  it,  I  almost  put  my  foot  on  the  tail  of  the  immense 
snake,  the  greater  part  of  whose  body  was  in  a  coil. 
It  was  nearly  the  color  of  the  shrubbery,  and  as  we 
were  both  attracted  by  the  antics  of  the  squirrel,  neither 
of  us  had  seen  the  other. 

I  made  a  good  jump  backward  to  the  trail,  only 
stopping  to  fire  recklessly  at  the  horrible  thing,  but  did 
not  wait  to  see  whether  the  shot  took  effect  on  his 
' '  snakeship, "  but  it  at  least  broke  the  spell,  for  the 
squirrel  which  seemed  to  have  been  paralyzed  or  hope- 
lessly charmed  by  the  snake,  now  darted  up  the  tree 
out  of  sight. 

The  boys^  hearing  the  report,  were  soon  at  my  side 


The  Bathing  Poor,  at  Moyabamba 

Facing  Page  270 


ONE  BIG  SNAKE  271 

and  rushed  into  the  thicket  after  the  boa,  which  I  was 
glad  they  did  not  get.  They  saw  it,  however,  the 
larger  of  the  boys  comparing  its  size  in  diameter  to  his 
bare  leg. 

Soon  after  this  adventure  w'e  heard  a  dog  bark  and 
knew  that  we  were  approaching  Indian  civilization. 

From  the  summit  of  a  little  hill  we  saw  Moyabamba, 
our  "promised  haven"  yet  a  long  ways  off,  nestling  in 
the  midst  of  the  finest,  loveliest  valley  on  the  earth's 
surface.  One  unconsciously  thought  of  the  Garden  of 
Eden,  and  after  a  residence  in  the  city  or  village, 
amongst  a  population  of  5,000,  three-fourths  of  whom 
were  women  and  a  number  of  them  beautiful  Chola 
senoritas,  this  impression  becomes  strengthened. 

The  descent  into  the  picturesque  valley  became  the 
''hop,  skip  and  a  jump"  of  the  school  boy  nearing  home. 
We  approached  the  valley  alongside  of  a  river,  but  not 
yet  out  of  the  woods  by  a  league.  We  emerged  sud- 
denly into  a  clearing  and  were  startled  by  the  appari- 
tion of  the  whole  population,  apparently,  bathing  in  the 
stream  under  the  overhanging  trees  and  clothed  in  the 
dress  worn  by  Mother  Eve.  There  were  some  pretty 
girls  among  the  ugly,  old  women,  but  all  of  them  ap- 
peared entirely  unconscious  and  certainly  indifferent  to 
our  intrusion. 

This  incident  did  not  cause  us  to  hestitate  upon  the 
threshold  of  the  Arcadian  Moyabamba,  but  rather 
served  to  hasten  our  steps  forward. 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 

HE  town  of  Moyabamba  occupies  per- 
haps the  most  strikingly  picturesque 
location  of  any  settlement  on  the  con- 
tinent, in  the  rich  valley,  which  has 
the  appearance  of  a  depression,  sim- 
ilar in  many  respects  to  that  of  the 
Yosemite,  but  as  great  in  extent  as 
the  Yellowstone. 

It  is  not,  however,  a  depression,  but  a  large,  isolated 
and  somewhat  elevated  plateau  hemmed  in  on  all  sides 
by  high  mountains  covered  with  vegetation. 

In  the  centre  of  the  vast  valley  a  spur  of  foothills  of 
lower  elevation  like  a  bunch  of  mountains  extends  sev- 
eral miles,  forming  a  narrower  plateau  resembling  an 
immense  fortress  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  sea  of  wav- 
ing foliage  and  similar  to  Lamas,  the  clay  sides  of  the 
formation  presenting  the  appearance  of  irregular,  pre- 
cipitous, terra-cotta  walls,  on  the  top  of  which  is  Moya- 
bamba. This  town  can  only  be  entered  by  winding 
paths  in  certain  directions.  Our  ascent  of  the  plateau 
was  somewhat  hastened  as  we  observed  a  dark  cloud 
in  our  rear  which  threatened  a  heavy  storm. 

Our  first  impressions  of  the  town  itself  were  not 
favorable,  one,  perhaps,  expecting  too  much  by  com- 
paring man's  work  with  the  beautiful,  natural  sur- 
roundings; but  as  we  approached  nearer  it  seemed 
picturesque  if  not  pretty. 

The  streets  are  narrow  and  the  adobe  houses  are 
272 


ARRIVAL  IN  ARCADIA  273 

small  and  of  the  monotonous  Spanish  Indian  character 
that  one  sees  all  through  these  mountains. 

We  straggled  along  the  narrow  streets,  tired  and 
foot-sore,  but  without  attracting  any  particular  atten- 
tion, as  the  curiosity  of  the  people  is  not  nearly  so  great 
as  that  of  our  own  rural  population.  Though  some  of 
them  had  not,  perhaps,  seen  a  white  man  or  a  stranger 
for  years  and  many  of  them  never  before,  they  passed 
us  by  without  even  a  glance  of  interest.  If  they  had 
any  curiosity  they  were  certainly  able  to  conceal  it. 
It  was  only  when  we  intercepted  a  senor,  who  was  out 
walking  with  his  two  daughters,  and  made  some  in- 
quiries as  to  the  casa  of  Senor  San  Martine,  to  whom  I 
was  endorsed  that  anything  was  said  to  us.  Even  then, 
though  most  courteously  directed,  not  a  question  was 
asked  in  regard  to  ourselves  and  no  suggestions  were 
volunteered. 

We  found  Senor  Martine — the  principal  merchant  of 
the  town — to  be  a  very  polite  Spanish  gentleman,  who 
received  us  most  cordiallj^  into  his  own  home  until  he 
could  arrange  for  our  comfort  in  a  house  specially  pre- 
pared for  us. 

As  is  the  custom  in  that  land,  travellers  are  provided 
with  a  residence  of  their  own  during  their  stay,  but 
all  are  expected  to  bring  their  beds  and  provisions. 
Hospitality  is,  however,  not  at  all  limited. 

I  was  provided  with  what  might  be  called  ''a  suite 
of  apartments''  in  an  upstairs  section  of  one  of  the 
best  houses  on  the  main  street  of  the  town. 

Moyabamba  streets  and  houses  as  seen  from  the  out- 
side, do  not  properly  represent  the  character  of  their 


274  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

interior.  Usually  the  streets  are  as  narrow  and  ill- 
looking  as  some  of  the  alleys  of  our  towns. 

The  early  Spanish  builders  seemed  to  entertain  ideas 
practically  the  opposite  of  our  own.  For  instance,  we 
attempt  to  make  the  best  appearance  by  ornamenting 
or  beautifying  the  outside  of  our  buildings,  or  the 
part  fronting  on  the  streets,  paying  little  regard  to  the 
architecture  in  the  rear.  In  the  same  way  our  back 
yards  do  not  get  the  attention  which  we  give  our  little 
front  yards. 

The  Spanish  American  house  has  its  worst  side  out, 
as  if  to  avoid  attracting  notice,  and  there  are  no  back 
yards,  the  house  surrounding  the  garden  or  patio. 

The  better  class  of  houses  in  Moyabamba,  as  well  as 
those  in  Lima  and  other  cities,  are  generally  constructed 
to  admit  of  an  inner  court  or  garden  in  the  centre  of 
the  lot,  around  which  are  the  galleries  or  hallways  upon 
which  the  rooms  open.  On  the  front,  the  lower  part 
usually  opens  on  the  street  and  is  used  for  business  pur- 
poses. The  entrance  to  the  residence  part  is  always 
through  an  archway  into  the  court,  the  saloons,  or  par- 
lors, being  ordinarily  on  the  first  floor  in  the  rear. 

There  does  not  seem  to  be  such  a  thing  as  a  kitchen, 
at  least  I  never  got  into  one.  The  cooking  is  done  out 
of  doors. 

In  the  patio,  or  large  court,  there  were  a  number  of 
old  trees  laden  with  oranges  of  a  most  delicious  flavor. 
Under  these  trees  the  Indians  who  had  accompanied  me 
rested.  They  remained  with  me  a  day  or  two  as  my 
guests.  The  little  boys  enjoyed  their  outing  in  the 
streets  of  the  town  fully  as  much  as  our  country  boys 
do  when  visiting  in  our  cities.    I  supplied  them  with  a 


MOYABAIVIBA  275 

few  trinkets,  the  possession  of  which  gave  unbounded 
delight  to  the  youngsters.  I  presented  my  soiled, 
ragged,  travel  worn  clothes  to  the  Indians,  and  after 
a  bath  in  cachasa  to  relieve  the  stings  of  the  moqueen 
and  other  insects,  I  astonished  them  by  appearing  in  a 
fresh  costume,  with  white  shirt,  stiff  collar  and  flaming 
red  necktie.  Using  an  umbrella  as  a  cane  and  wearing 
gloves  for  the  sake  of  appearances,  I  took  the  Napo 
guide  as  an  interpreter  and  sauntered  out  to  pay  my 
respects  to  the  Prefect,  this  being  the  custom  or  all 
strangers  on  arriving  in  a  town. 

Moyabamba,  the  capital  city  of  the  large  department 
of  Loretto,  which  includes  several  states,  each  about 
the  size  of  Pennsylvania  or  Ohio,  covers  that  portion  of 
Peru  known  as  fluvial  Amazonia,  meaning  **  where  the 
water  is  plenty. ' ' 

The  Prefect  is  distinguished  from  the  sub-Prefect, 
several  states  reporting  to  him  instead  of  to  the  Pres- 
ident. 

In  mentioning  to  friends  that  in  extensive  travels  in 
out  of  the  way  places,  I  had  never  yet  found  a  point 
where  the  English  language  was  not  spoken,  it  was  said 
that  at  Moyabamba  no  one  would  be  found  who  could 
speak  English.  This  induced  me  to  take  the  Napo  guide 
along  as  interpreter  in  case  I  should  need  one  when 
interviewing  that  august  personage,  the  Prefect. 

While  passing  through  one  of  the  streets  my  atten- 
tion was  attracted  to  a  tall,  distinguished  looking  Span- 
iard, who  was  lounging  in  his  doorway. 

I  ventured  to  ask  in  very  bad  Spanish  to  be  shown 
the  way  to  the  casa  of  the  Prefect.    To  my  astonishment 


276  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

and  delight,  he  replied  in  English,  without  a  touch  of 
foreign  accent: 

* '  Certainly,  if  you  will  be  kind  enough  to  step  inside 
I  shall  be  pleased  to  accompany  you  to  the  Prefect." 

Extending  his  hand,  he  then  courteously  welcomed  us 
to  his  own  house,  introducing  himself  as  the  sub-Pre- 
feet.  "We  sat  down  at  his  request,  and  had  English 
talk  and  three  bottles  of  Dublin  stout  in  the  centre  of 
the  South  American  continent. 

I  beg  to  introduce  to  the  readers — especially  the 
ladies — my  new-found  and  yet  constant  Spanish  friend, 
Colonel  Estaban  Lasurteque,  of  the  Peruvian  army. 
(Pronounce  the  name,  Es-ta-bann,  the  accent  on  the 
last  syllable,  La-soor-ta-kee,  accenting  the  soor.) 

The  Colonel,  certainly  one  of  the  handsomest  and 
most  gracious  gentlemen  whom  I  met  in  my  travels, 
may  be  described  as  tall  and  erect,  with  dark  eyes, 
short  Spanish  whiskers,  and  a  decidedly  military  bear- 
ing, which  is  strikingly  different  to  that  of  the  natives. 
He  was  educated  at  the  military  schools  in  France  and 
Belgium,  having  spent  some  ten  years  of  his  early  life 
abroad. 

My  housekeeping  arrangements  not  being  complete, 
Senor  San  Martine  insisted  that  Col.  Lasurteque  and 
myself  should  dine  with  him  at  his  house ;  after  which 
we  all  called  upon  the  Prefect,  quite  a  venerable  old 
gentleman,  who  received  us  very  kindly.  We  were 
also  joined  by  Dr.  Herreira,  a  personal  friend  of  Colonel 
Lasurteque,  and  appointed  by  the  Lima  administration 
as  a  judge  of  the  district,  which  office  was  quite  an  im- 
portant one. 

Soon  after  dark  the  military  band  at  the  Plaza  bar- 


A  SERENADE  277 

racks  came  around  and  gave  a  serenade  in  our  honor. 
It  seemed  as  if  all  the  town,  in  bare  feet,  had  gathered 
on  the  narrow  streets  to  hear  the  noisy  music.  Probably 
none  enjoyed  the  affair  so  much  as  my  two  Indian  boys, 
who  seemed  to  think  that  their  ** padrone''  was  indeed 
some  person  from  another  world,  whose  presence  could 
call  forth  noises  such  as  they  had  never  heard  before. 

After  a  pleasant  evening  I  slept  soundly  on  my  camp 
bed  made  up  in  my  new  quarters  until  awakened  in  the 
early  morning  by  a  messenger  from  the  Prefect,  who 
had  politely  sent  to  inquire  how  we  had  rested  during 
the  night. 

In  connection  with  the  picturesque  adobe  and 
thatched  roof  Acadia  of  the  Land  of  To-Morrow,  there 
are  romantic  stories  and  ancient  history,  as  numerous 
as  are  the  stones  or  bricks  in  the  walls  of  its  antiquated 
houses. 

Perhaps  some  of  these  are  quite  as  interesting  as 
Longfellow's  '*A  Village,"  of  which  the  traveller  is 
reminded.  The  story  of  this  village,  however,  has 
never  been  told,  and  it  must  be  read  by  the  visitor 
within  its  walls.  Though  picturesque,  it  is  not  a  pretty 
town.  Probably  because  of  its  location  in  the  finest 
of  valleys,  amid  so  much  natural  beauty,  the  rude 
handiwork  of  the  natives  becomes  ugly  by  comparison. 

It  is  one  of  the  first  and  most  important  settlements 
of  the  early  Spanish  Jesuit  missionaries,  who,  perhaps, 
may  have  been  led  to  this  remote  and  beautiful  valley 
as  a  haven  of  refuge  with  the  Incas,  who  were  com- 
pelled to  flee  over  the  Central  Andes  to  these  fortresses 
to  escape  the  cruelties  of  the  Spanish  conquerers  of 
Pizarro's  time.     There   is  verj^  scant  record   of  any 


278  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Spanish  conquerers  having  attempted  to  cross  this 
central  range,  except  that  of  the  hazardous  under- 
taking of  Orellano  from  Quito,  in  Ecuador,  down  the 
Napo  to  the  Amazon. 

Reclining  in  a  woven  hammock  swung  between  a  big 
orange  and  a  little  lemon  tree  in  a  garden  containing 
lovely  and  fragrant  flowers,  his  tired  gaze  resting  upon 
distant  mountains  with  foliage  that  resembles  clouds 
on  the  horizon,  the  weary  traveller  will  probably  be 
aroused  from  his  day-dreams  by  the  apparition  of  a 
mantled,  brown  senorita,  with  wicked  black  eyes  and 
a  smiling  mouth  with  rows  of  pearly  teeth,  who  grace- 
fully hands  to  him  a  cup  of  delicious  coffee — famous 
Moyabamba  coffee — made  from  berries  grown  in  the 
garden.  Served  in  a  delicate  little  gourd  of  clear 
amber,  this  fragrant  beverage,  with  its  foaming  bead, 
is  a  nectar  fit  for — a  veteran. 

Amid  these  entrancing  surroundings,  the  blonde, 
who,  it  is  said,  is  more  sensitive  (or  susceptible)  than 
the  brunette,  may  be  pardoned  for  persisting  in  the 
observation  that  this  was  a  part  of  the  original  Garden 
of  Eden. 

There  were  numerous  descendents  of  Eve,  who  would 
tempt  the  young  or  old  Adam,  not  only  with  the  apples, 
oranges  and  other  fruits  of  the  garden,  but  also  with 
coffee,  which  is  a  weakness  of  veterans,  and  always 
opens  a  way  to  hearts  that  refuse  to  grow  old. 

Of  the  population  of  about  7,000,  it  is  probably  safe 
to  say  that  more  than  5,000  are  senoras  and  senoritas. 
As  at  Tarapota,  the  best  of  the  male  inhabitants  have 
gone  off  to  the  forests  in  search  of  rubber,  hoping  to 
get  suddenly  wealthy. 


ISOLATED  PARADISE 


279 


280  THE  LAND  OP  TO-MORROW 

Moyabamba  has  its  disadvantages,  its  principal  one 
being  its  inaccessibility,  for  it  is  cut  off  from  the  outside 
world  by  the  immense  easterly  range  of  the  Andes, 
"which  separates  it  from  the  Amazon,  while  beyond  or 
west  are  two  other  ranges  that  must  be  scaled  in  order 
to  reach  the  Pacific. 

The  active  young  men  succeed  in  getting  away,  either 
to  the  coast  as  soldiers,  or  to  the  forests  as  rubber 
gatherers,  and  but  few  of  them  return. 

The  girls  not  having  any  prospects  beyond  to  justify 
them  in  attempting  the  rough  journey,  are  obliged  to 
remain  in  the  valley,  which  fact  accounts  probably  for 
the  excess  in  the  female  population.  This  is,  in  one 
sense,  a  disadvantage,  yet,  in  the  way  of  encouraging 
immigration,  it  becomes  a  decided  inducement  for 
young  men  who  may  desire  to  find  willing  and  trusty 
helpmates.  While  the  senoritas  are  not  all  pretty,  they 
seem  to  possess  in  an  usual  degree  the  charm  of  natural 
grace. 

The  Spanish  officials  and  senors  in  these  wilds  ex- 
tend many  delicate  attentions  to  strangers,  and  this 
is  done  in  such  a  kindly  manner  that  it  rather  puts 
some  of  the  methods  of  our  bustling  civilization  to  the 
blush. 

My  friend,  Col.  Lasurteque  (and  the  sub-Prefect  also) 
sent  a  message  of  inquiry  as  to  our  comfort,  with  the 
observation  that  he  had  ordered  four  women  to  report 
to  me,  and  out  of 'this  quartette  I  was  to  select  one  to 
be  my  cook  and  housekeeper  while  I  remained  in  the 
village. 

During  the  morning,  not  only  four,  but  eight  or  ten 
women  came  to  see  about  my  work.     At  one  time  there 


SOME  INCONVENIENCES  281 

were  five  of  them  sitting  on  a  bench  in  my  court  yavd, 
chatting  and  laughing  amongst  themselves  in  a  manuer 
quite  different  to  the  rather  sullen  aspect  with  which 
a  number  of  applicants  for  one  place  regard  each  otl-er 
in  our  country.  They  were  mostly  stout  and  old  and 
ugly,  so  that  I  was  not  interested  in  the  selection.  One 
woman  had  brought  her  niece  with  her,  and  stipulnted 
that  if  she  was  to  do  my  cooking,  her  niece  must  also  be 
provided  for.  The  providing  for  another,  or  even  for 
half  a  dozen  extra  mouths  in  that  land  of  plenty  is 
of  so  slight  a  consideration  that  no  account  is  taken 
of  it. 

Being  unable  to  decide  amongst  so  many  ugly  women, 
I  left  the  matter  to  the  Napo  guide,  who  selected  a 
buxom  young  woman  with  a  jolly  disposition,  who  was 
duly  installed  as  housekeeper  and  who  proceeded  to 
throw  away  our  provisions. 

The  cook  does  all  the  buying,  and  as  the  markets  of 
Moyabamba  are  well  supplied  in  the  way  of  vegetables, 
we  enjoyed  a  variety  of  Spanish  cooking  which  was  a 
relief  from  the  two  or  three  dishes  we  had  been  living 
upon. 

These  restful  and  happy  days  at  Moyabamba,  almost 
unconsciously  rolled  into  weeks  of  quiet  enjoyment, 
making  the  month  of  September  pass  so  agreeably  in 
this  ideal  life  at  the  Equator,  that  looking  backward 
at  this  time,  it  all  seems  like  a  pleasant  dream. 

There  are  inconveniences,  however,  connected  with 
this  living  in  these  Amazonian  valleys,  that,  to  the 
minds  of  the  majority  of  Americans,  would  form  ob- 
stacles to  their  enjoyment,  as  great  perhaps,  as  the 
mountains  which  encompass  the  town.    They  arise  from 


282  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  habits  and  customs  of  these  happy  people  which  are 
as  fixed  as  the  everlasting  hills  themselves.  It  would 
not  only  be  a  waste  of  time,  but  dangerous  as  well,  for 
the  outsider  to  attempt  to  reform  or  change  their  cus- 
toms. It  is  largely  a  question  of  climate  and  biooci, 
and  one  might  as  well  try  to  "bulldoze"  the  climate 
as  the  natives. 

It  is  difficult  to  make  some  of  our  rather  aggressive, 
American,  liberty-talking  element  comprehend  that,  in 
their  way,  these  people  really  enjoy  as  much  freedom, 
relatively,  as  the  same  class  of  citizens  do  with  us. 
True,  they  are  all  subjects  of  the  military  officials  of 
the  administration  in  power,  but  it  is  to  the  interest 
of  these  officials  to  treat  their  subjects  well,  as  upon 
their  own  good  behavior  they  must  depend  for  contin- 
uance in  office. 

If  the  rule  of  a  Prefect  becomes  unpopular  or  tyran- 
nical and  unjust,  the  people  ''remove"  him  quietly  at 
night,  and  the  government  sends  another  who  is  likely 
to  profit  by  his  predecessor's  fate. 

In  our  papers,  the  accounts  of  their  revolutions  are 
greatly  exaggerated.  A  revolution  in  South  America 
may  fittingly  be  compared  to  an  ordinary  election  in 
our  land,  during  which  there  is  not  so  much  disorder, 
rioting  or  bloodshed  as  occurs  during  the  majority  of 
our  elections. 

The  Latin  American  idea  of  civil  service  is  that 
when  one  official  has  been  in  power  long  enough  to 
enrich  himself  and  become  independent,  he  should  give 
way  and  permit  others  to  have  the  same  chance,  but 
instead  of  cutting  off  official  heads  with  a  tomahawk, 
they  take  a  gun  and  create  a  vacancy. 


LUXURIES  283 

While  I  was  at  Moyabamba  my  gallant  friend, 
Colonel  Estaban,  had  some  trouble  with  a  settlement  in 
the  mountains  near  by,  because  the  quota  of  Indians 
was  not  sent  out  to  help  clear  out  the  trail.  It  is  the 
custom  for  the  sub-Prefect  to  detail  men  to  keep  the 
dense  growth  from  covering  up  the  caminoes. 

Col.  Estaban  rode  to  my  quarters  one  evening,  with 
boots  and  spurs  and  gay  trappings,  the  very  imperson- 
ation of  a  handsome  Spanish  cavalier.  After  courteous 
greeting  he  invited  me  to  dinner  at  his  house  that 
night,  and  saying  he  had  some  business  on  the  road,  he 
declined  to  dismount  and  dashed  gayly  off. 

I  learned  subsequently,  though  he  did  not  mention 
it  himself,  that  he  had  that  morning  faced  an  insurrec- 
tion single  handed,  and  cowed  the  mob  by  shooting  two 
of  their  number.  In  this  affair  he  was  sustained  by 
the  better  element  of  the  people  against  the  turbulent 
mountaineers. 

The  dinner  in  the  evening  at  the  coloneFs  bamboo 
and  thatched  cottage  was  served  on  a  deal  table  in 
the  centre  of  the  room,  with  a  cordial  hospitality  and 
rude  elegance  befitting  the  host  and  his  four  gentlemen 
guests. 

To  my  astonishment,  the  first  course  was  oyster  soup, 
prepared  expressly  in  honor  of  the  Americano,  from 
canned  spiced  oysters,  which  luxury  was  enjoyed  by 
the  other  guests  more  than  by  myself.  Chesapeake  oys- 
ters transported  to  the  Andes  is  one  of  the  luxuries  of 
our  climate  that  can  willingly  be  dispensed  with  while 
living  at  the  Equator. 

After  the  soup,  we  had  wine  from  Bordeaux;  trout 
from  the  rivers  of  the  mountains,  and  a  young  shoat,  or 


284  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOEROW 

wild  hog,  roasted  and  served  entire,  with  yams  and 
all  the  vegetables  and  fruits  of  the  country,  and  clos- 
ing with  the  delicious  Moyabamba  coffee. 

Gorgeously  beautiful  flowers  and  vining  plants  decor- 
ated the  room  and  table  so  profusely  that  the  ragged 
walls  of  adobe  became  conspicuous  as  an  artistic  back- 
ground. 

Among  the  best  remembered  guests  were  Judge 
Jonare  Herreira  and  his  friend,  the  leading  physician 
of  the  village.  I  failed  to  note  his  name  at  the  time, 
and  cannot  now  venture  to  put  in  on  paper,  but  like 
the  rest,  he  had  been  exiled  to  this  paradise,  and  in 
consequence  became  a  jolly  good  fellow.  Altogether 
it  was  a  rare  evening  of  pleasurable  communion  of 
sympathetic  hearts  and  souls  (as  well  as  of  stomachs) 
— men  from  widely  separated  parts  of  the  world — an 
occasion  ever  to  be  remembered;  one  of  those  star 
events  in  a  roving  life,  that  makes  one  believe  that  ''all 
the   world   is   kin." 

We  separated  at  a  late  hour,  after  somewhat  reck- 
lessly accepting  an  invitation  from  the  judge  to  arise 
at  daybreak  and  ride  with  him  and  the  doctor  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  where  the  celebrated  hot  springs 
of  the  valley  are  located. 

The  colonel,  who  could  not  accompany  us,  tendered 
me  the  use  of  his  fine  horse  and  saddle  and  also  detailed 
an  escort  of  soldiers  who  were  to  act  as  a  sort  of 
guard  of  honor,  and  at  the  same  time  perform  servants' 
duties. 

The  next  morning  I  was  awakened  from  sound  sleep 
by  the  judge  coming  to  my  bedside  and  saluting  me 
with  "Buenos  dias,  Senor!"     (By  the  way,  there  are 


MOYABAMBA  BANYOS.  285 

no  locks  to  the  doors  in  Moyabamba,  the  latch  strings 
being  always  on  the  outside.) 

Hastily  dressing,  I  walked  with  the  judge  to  his 
house,  where  we  were  served  with  coffee — standing.  It 
is  one  of  the  ''costumbres"  of  this  people  to  take  their 
early  coffee  standing,  just  as  we  do  our  American 
cocktail. 

The  horses  being  already  saddled,  we  were  soon 
mounted,  and  after  descending  the  plateau  and  leaving 
the  town,  we  galloped  across  the  lovely  valley. 

The  ride  in  the  cool  morning  air  across  Moyabamba 
valley,  sometimes  in  a  swath  or  path  through  the  dense 
growth  of  tropical  shrubbery  growing  from  the  rich 
soil  of  what  seemed  like  an  immense  prairie,  was  in- 
deed invigorating.  Near  the  base  of  the  mountain  we 
entered  the  shadows  of  a  bit  of  beautiful  * 'forest 
primeval."  The  tall  trees  were  so  clustered  with  foli- 
age at  the  top  that  the  shade  prevented  the  under- 
growth from  becoming  very  thick,  affording  us  quite 
a  clear  footing  on  the  velvety  soil.  Our  approach 
stirred  up  the  small  animals  and  the  birds  that  are 
always  on  the  wing  in  the  early  morning,  startled  at 
our  appearance,  voiced  their  surprise  in  notes  of  pro- 
test  against  the   intrusion. 

The  springs  being  located  in  a  secluded  glen  some 
little  distance  up  the  mountainside,  the  washings  from 
the  overflow  as  it  coursed  down  the  slope  marked  the 
upward  path,  which  was  quite  rough  because  the  large 
stones  were  left  loose  and  uncovered. 

Unlike  the  hot  cascades  of  the  Huallagua,  the  water 
here  seemed  to  boil  or  bubble  in  chaldrons  formed  in 


286  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  sand,  the  overflow  from  which  was  gathered  into 
deep  pools  for  bathing. 

The  soldiers  preceding  us  had  cleaned  out  the  pools 
for  our  special  benefit,  and  hastily  preparing,  with  only 
a  sheet  for  a  covering,  while  still  warm  from  the  exer- 
cise, we  plunged  into  the  water. 

I  do  not  know  as  to  its  medicinal  qualities  except  in 
the  general  way  that  the  baths  of  Moyabamba  are 
famed  for  their  curative  properties,  but  I  can  testify  to 
its  wonderfully  invigorating  effects.  The  pleasant  in- 
tercourse with  friends  at  the  banquet  the  preceding 
night,  followed  by  the  early  .morning  ride  and  the  ex- 
hilarating bath,  made  me  feel  that  I  had,  perhaps, 
found  the  fabled  fountain  of  youth  in  this  Garden  of 
Eden. 

Subsequently  the  judge  gave  a  dinner  at  his  quarters 
which  equalled  in  its  appointments  that  given  by  the 
colonel. 

In  appearance  Judge  Herreira  was  a  complete  con- 
trast to  his  intimate  friend,  Estaban,  being  of  a  quiet, 
studious  nature,  with  a  mild,  intellectual  face  the 
sparkle  of  his  dark  eyes  being  somewhat  obscured  by 
his  glasses. 

The  furniture  of  his  room  was  principally  desks  and 
book-cases,  instead  of  saddles,  swords,  pistols  and 
pictures  of  French  actresses,  such  as  ornamented  the 
colonel's  bachelor  apartments. 

His  dinner  partook  of  a  more  formal  and  dignified 
style  of  the  Spanish  don,  and  was  none  the  less  enjoy- 
able because  of  the  presence  of  the  venerable  Prefect 
and  his  secretary,  who,  with  the  Padre  of  the  village  as 
guests,  were  the  j oiliest  members  of  the  party. 


DAILY  EOUTINE  .        287 

The  routine  of  each  day  began  with  a  sudden  waking 
caused  by  the  bells  calling  to  early  mass.  The  church 
of  the  town,  with  its  convent  or  annex,  occupies  in  all 
towns  an  entire  side  of  the  square  or  plaza.  On  the 
other  side  is  the  government  house,  flanked  by  a  bar- 
racks for  soldiers.     The  market  is  also  here. 

The  churches  are  always  well  attended  by  the  senoras 
and  senoritas.  The  music  is  generally  by  the  best 
talent  of  the  country,  comprising  violins,  mandolins 
and  even  drums  and  brass  horns  are  often  pressed  into 
the  choir  service  for  special  occasions. 

The  church  doors  are  never  closed,  and  it  is  safe  to 
say  that  the  altar  candles  constantly  shed  their  dim, 
religious  light  on  some  devotee,  kneeling  on  the  earthen 
floor.  It  is  the  custom  of  all  who  pass  the  open  door 
of  the  church  to  lift  their  sombreros  in  respectful  salu- 
tation to  the  altar.  In  my  desire  to  follow  this  custom 
of  the  country  I  once  made  the  mistake  of  taking  off 
my  hat  as  I  passed  a  market  house,  supposing  it  to  be 
a  church.  Architectually,  there  is  not  much  difference 
outside  between  the  markets  and  the  churches. 

Everybody  in  Moyabamba  goes  to  early  market,  as 
they  do  to  early  mass,  probably  for  the  same  reason,  to 
see  the  pretty  senoritas.  As  it  is  known  all  over  the  land 
that  Moyabamba  will  turn  out  a  greater  number  of 
these  pretty  girls — to  market — than  any  other  city  of 
its  size  in  South  America. 

Sometimes  they  are  seated  alongside  of  their  mats  or 
rugs,  on  which  are  spread  vegetables  of  all  sorts  as 
well  as  flowers,  shrubs,  eggs  and  chickens,  or  perhaps 
they  will  promenade  with  baskets  of  fruit  or  flowers 
nicely  balanced  on  their  heads.    The  older  and  uglier 


288  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

senoras  sell  the  curious  cuts  of  mutton  and  beef  and 
strings  of  fish.  The  buyers  are  usually  the  better  class 
of  the  native  population,  and  are  the  prettiest  of  the 
attendants  at  the  market.  Comparatively  speaking, 
there  is  not  in  all  our  land  more  natural  beauty  in  form 
and  grace  than  may  be  found  among  the  senoritas  of 
this  valley. 

Nothing  in  the  way  of  groceries  or  produce  is  sold  at 
the  town  shops  or  stores;  their  business  is  confined 
entirely  to  dry  goods  and  notions.  Everything  for  the 
day's  sustenance  must  be  purchased  at  the  early  morn- 
ing market,  or  one  must  go  hungry  during  the  day. 

Though  our  marketing  had  been  left  to  the  cook,  I 
became  a  regular  attendant,  and  the  presence  of  the 
stranger  furnished  a  subject  for  market  gossip.  I 
bought  only  flowers  from  the  prettiest  flower  girls, 
but  as  an  American  journalist  I  felt  it  to  be 
my  duty  to  ascertain  the  prices  of  the  many 
good  things  which  the  country  produced,  and  which 
were  so  numerous  that  I  cannot  recall  anything 
in  the  way  of  desirable  fruits  and  vegetables 
that  are  not  grown  in  this  valley.  Perhaps  there  is 
no  land  known  to  our  civilization  with  all  that  skill  and 
cultivation  can  accomplish  in  conservatories  that  can 
produce  such  beautiful  forms  and  coloring  in  flowers 
as  grow  here  in  the  open  in  wildest  luxuriance.  And 
when  we  remember  that  there  is  no  market  beyond  for 
these  varied  products,  one  can  understand  that  the  best 
may  be  had  at  a  merely  nominal  price. 

The  only  medium  of  exchange  or  curr-ency  recognized 
in  Moyabamba  are  the  copper  coins  of  Peru.  The 
silver    sole,    which    is    equivalent    to    fifty    or    sixty 


WATER  CARRIERS  289 

cents  of  our  money,  the  authorized  coin  of  the  govern- 
ment of  Peru,  is  not  used  among  the  masses  of  Moya- 
bamba  and  vicinity. 

These  people  persist  in  their  adherence  to  the  use 
of  the  two  or  three  forms  of  copper  coins,  so  that  in 
marketing  or  in  other  similar  transactions,  one  must 
be  supplied  with  coppers.  The  store  or  shop  keepers 
usually  have  barrels  of  them,  which  they  are  glad  to 
exchange  for  silver. 

The  town  of  Moyabamba  being  built  upon  an  isolated 
knoll  or  plateau,  the  entire  water  supply  is  obtained 
from  the  valley  beneath,  for  though  there  are  mountain 
torrents  of  the  purest,  cold  water  running  to  waste  on 
all  sides,  no  attempt  has  yet  been  made  to  convey  it 
through  the  city. 

While  the  market  is  going  on — before  coffee — those 
of  the  senoritas  not  otherwise  engaged  are  busy  in 
carrying  the  water  supply  necessary  for  the  day.  It 
may  have  been  previously  explained  that  all  water  is 
carried  in  peculiar  shaped  flattened  jars  of  crockery, 
balanced  on  the  heads  of  the  young  girls. 

There  are  a  number  of  large  springs  just  below  the 
hill,  around  which  the  girls  gather  every  morning  in 
clusters,  to  chatter  and  gossip  while  filling  their  jars, 
Rebecca-like,  at  the  wells. 

There  are  also  a  number  of  senors  who  lie  in  ambush 
along  the  path  of  the  water  carriers,  and  who  twist 
their  mustaches  as  the  girls  pass  by.  While  the  senor- 
itas are  not  averse  to  flirting  with  their  eyes  it  is  not 
safe  for  a  senor  to  approach  them  too  familiarly.  A 
lively  senorita,  with  laughing  eyes,  to  whom  I  appealed 
beseechingly  for  a  drink  of  water,  observing  that  I  was 


290  a^HE  LAND  OF  TO-MOHROW 

very  warm,  advised  me  to  go  to  the  river  and  cool  off 
in  a  bath. 

This  habit  of  carrying  water,  almost  from  infancy, 
gives  the  girls  of  the  country  an  erect,  graceful  car- 
riage, serving  also  to  develop  their  figures  with  those 
curving  outlines  of  beauty  so  attractive  in  the  human 
form  divine. 

The  young  girls  bathe  in  the  overflow  of  the  cold 
spring  water,  almost  every  time  they  go  to  the  pools. 
They  wear  blue  mantuas  over  their  heads  and  shoulders, 
and  with  the  one  loose  garment  covering  their  bodies, 
their  feet  and  lower  limbs  always  bare,  they  seem 
to  glide  along  wholly  unconscious  or  indifferent  to  their 
appearance  and  surroundings. 

After  the  morning  duties  the  entire  population  seems 
to  disappear,  giving  the  old  town  a  decidedly  deserted 
look  during  the  long,  warm  days. 

Some  of  our  abundant  leisure  was  occupied  in  ex- 
tended walks,  or  in  occasional  hunts  for  the  wild  boar, 
or  in  boating  and  fishing  in  the  beautiful  placid  river 
that  flows  through  the  valley,  the  exercise  giving  an 
appetite  for  the  noonday  breakfast.  "We  then  enjoyed 
a  siesta  on  the  balcony. 

In  the  construction  of  the  houses  few  boards  are  to 
be  seen.  Some  doors  and  window  frames  are  used,  but 
a  species  of  insect  attacks  any  smooth  or  planed  wooden 
surface.  Perhaps  the  entire  absence  of  paint,  oil  or 
varnish  may  account  for  this,  in  part.  The  walls  are 
usually  of  saplings  or  split  logs,  the  roofs  being  of  palm 
thatch,  or  terra-cotta  tile  laid  on  rustic  rafters;  the 
doors  and  windows  are  framed  in  the  same  rustic  way. 
No  glass  is  u§ed  in  the  windows.     If  there  are  two 


MOYABAMBA  GlRtS  CARRYING  WaTER 

Facing  Page  290 


PRIIMITIVE  CONSTRUCTION  291 

stories,  the  floor  is  laid  in  logs  or  rafters  close  together, 
and  on  top  of  these  a  cement  or  clay  is  spread.  No 
nails,  or  hardware  of  any  kind  are  used,  and  iron  im- 
plements are  very  scarce.  Just  how  an  American  car- 
penter would  go  about  building  a  city,  without  the  aid 
of  any  of  these  prime  requisites  for  the  work,  is  a 
conundrum  which  I  leave  to  the  ''wood  butchers." 

The  balcony  at  the  corner. of  my  room  afforded  me 
a  shady  nook  from  which  I  had  a  splendid  view  over  the 
tops  of  Senor  San  Martinets  orange  trees,  to  the  blue 
mountains  beyond.  This  was  also  a  favorite  position  to 
note  all  that  passed  on  the  street  within  my  range  of 
vision. 

The  opposite  corner  was  a  conspicuous  loafing  place 
for  the  young  men  of  the  town,  several  of  whom,  in 
short  jackets  and  Panama  hats,  and  always  with  naked 
feet,  lounged  about,  smoking  cigarettes. 

It  is  noticeable  that  every  person,  great  or  small, 
old  or  young,  male  or  female,  in  Moyabamba,  wears  the 
one  kind  of  hat,  which  we  call  ''Panama,"  which  is 
made  extensively  in  the  town.  The  senoritas  wear  hats 
that  seem  much  too  large  for  them. 

The  "Americano"  usually  appeared  on  the  street  in 
a  white  or  cream  serge  suit,  with  negligee  shirt  and  red 
necktie,  and  a  forty-nine  cent  straw  hat  of  the  summer 
previous,  which  I  had  not  discarded  because  I  found  it 
preferable  to  their  panama,  as  it  was  lighter  and 
afforded  more  ventilation. 

The  entire  business  of  the  town  consists  in  the  mak- 
ing of  Panama  hats.  The  palm  from  which  the  nar- 
row fibres  are  stripped,  grows,  or  is  cultivated  there- 
abouts in  the  greatest  abundance.     The  hats  of  Moya- 


292  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

bamba  were  at  one  time  traded  extensively  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  and  via  Panama  reached  all  portions  of 
the  civilized  globe.  This  trade  afforded  the  people 
quite  comfortable  incomes,  but  the  advent  of  machines 
which  could  make  a  few  thousand  hats  in  less  time  than 
they  could  make  one,  deprived  them  of  their  occupation. 

It  is  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  these  people  never 
to  change  their  customs,  and  though  there  is  little  de- 
mand for  their  hats  at  prices  ridiculously  low,  they  go 
on  making  them  just  the  same,  being  content  to  dis- 
pose of  them  for  a  few  coppers  each. 

Almost  the  entire  female  population,  old  and  young, 
ugly  and  pretty,  spend  their  lives' with  meshes  of  these 
palm  straws  in  their  laps,  their  fingers  deftly  weaving 
the  numerous  threads  into  proper  shape,  without  any 
apparent  attention  on  their  part  to  the  work.  A  peep 
into  the  cabins  or  huts  of  the  poorest,  or  into  the 
adobe  dwellings  of  the  best  class  will  be  sure  to  develop 
a  couple  of  girls  weaving  hats.  Satan  could  not  "find 
mischief  for  idle  hands  to  do"  here,  for  they  are  busy 
all  day  long.  It  is  only  in  the  evening,  just  after  dark, 
at  precisely  the  same  hour  every  day  of  the  year,  that 
all  the  girls  of  Moyabamba  come  out  of  the  seclusion 
of  their  cabins,  and,  chattering  like  blackbirds,  flock 
toward  the  stores  or  bazaars,  to  offer  their  hats  for  sale. 

The  buyers  usually  sit  in  an  open  room  which  is 
lighted  with  only  one  candle.  The  poor  working  girl 
hands  him  the  labor  of  two  or  three  days;  he  quickly 
passes  his  fingers  over  it,  as  if  to  test  the  strength  of  the 
mesh,  and  hands  it  back  to  her,  with  an  offer  so  low, 
that  he  assumes  she  will  not  accept.  Sometimes,  she 
does  not,  and  then  tries  another  customer,  but  the  deal 


MAKING  PANAMA  HATS.  293 

is  usually  made  without  the  exchange  of  a  single  word. 

As  my  dinner,  occurring  at  the  hat-selling  time,  was 
not  partaken  of  for  several  evenings,  the  cook  arranged 
the  hour  to  suit  the  sombrero  connection,  as  I  explained 
that  under  the  cover  of  evening,  I  had  better  oppor- 
tunity for  studying  character  among  the  senoritas  than 
when  they  were  burdened  with  their  water  jars  in  the 
early  morning. 

Considerable  entertainment  was  afforded  me  when  I 
pretended  to  offer  my  forty-nine  cent  straw  hat  in  ex- 
change for  one  of  their  make,  as  it  excited  as  much 
curiosit}^  and  interest  as  one  of  their  relics  would  in  a 
company  of  our  ladies.  The  hat  girls  looked  it  over 
carefully,  passing  it  from  one  to  another,  with  laughing 
comments. 

They  usually  move  in  groups  of  three  or  four,  a 
formation  of  defensive  tactics  which  gave  more  freedom 
in  their  intercourse  with  the  stranger,  or  the  enemy. 
After  preliminaries,  a  bargain  was  made  with  a  pretty 
little  girl  to  buy  a  hat  from  her,  which  she 
would  make  to  order,  taking  my  measure  by  trying  her 
hat  on  my  head. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  days  I  was  waited  upon  and 
presented  with  one  of  their  select  hats,  made  from  the 
very  finest  of  straws,  carefully  chosen,  and  prepared 
without  flaw  in  color  or  form.  I  have  forgotten  how 
many  narrow  threads  are  required  for  one  of  these 
choice  hats,  but  there  are  probably  two  or  three  times 
as  many  as  in  the  ordinary  sort.  It  was  a  very  fine, 
pliable  hat,  of  good  shape,  and  as  soft  and  flexible  as  a 
French  felt  travelling  hat.  I  could  roll  it  into  a  small 
space  for  my  pocket,  wash  it,  and  make  a  bonnet  shape 


294  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

of  it,  as  if  it  were  a  piece  of  cloth.  Such  a  hat  is  valued 
there  at  fifteen  soles,  and  would  sell  in  our  country  for 
$40.00.  I  wore  it  over  the  Andes,  with  the  gayly  col- 
ored pouch  and  wild  goat  horn  drinking  cup  shown 
in  cut. 

From  my  balcony  porch  in  the  corner  of  my  casa, 
I  noticed  a  young  girl  of  rather  frail  and  delicate 
physique  and  neat  appearance.  She  glanced  up  with  a 
curious  smile  as  she  passed,  and  when  she  saw  that  my 
attention  was  attracted,  she  ran  off  with  a  pleasant 
laugh.  This  bit  of  innocent  flirtation  was  repeated  on 
several  days.  One  day,  as  she  passed  directly  beneath 
my  window,  I  dropped  her  a  necklace  with  a  pendant 
cross  of  brass,  costing  me  ten  cents  in  Iquitos,  and 
worth  about  one  cent  at  home.  This  cross  was  the 
hook,  and  the  beads  were  the  snare  that  caught  the 
little  girl's  attention. 

With  the  cheap  trophy  held  admiringly  in  her  small 
brown  hand,  she  turned  her  face,  and  in  a  sweet  voice 
with  the  rising  inflection  peculiar  to  their  interrogation, 
asked,  ''Para  me?"  (meaning,  for  me?) 

I  thought  at  the  time,  and  I  think  yet,  that  I  never 
saw  a  prettier  picture  than  this  little  senorita  made 
at  that  moment  with  her  dainty  figure  and  bronzed 
happy  face,  and  with  the  sunlight  reflected  in  her  dark 
brown  eyes,  which  were  beaming  with  most  expressive 
gratitude. 

When  I  laughingly  intimated  that  the  token  was  of 
slight  value,  she  bowed  her  head,  smiling  bewitchingly, 
and  quietly  observed:  ''Gracias,  Senor,"  and  then 
quickly  ran  off  to  her  home  to  exhibit  her  jewelry. 

That  evening  the  Napo  guide,  whom  I  had  allowed  to 


INEZ  295 

amuse  himself  in  his  own  way,  told  me  that  the  whole 
town  had  heard  that  I  had  presented  a  certain  girl  with 
some  jewelry,  laughingly  assuring  me  that  these  people 
had  concluded  that  from  this  little  incident  that  I  was 
well  stocked  with  jewelry,  and  as  a  consequence  I  would 
be  besieged  by  young  girls  under  my  windows  anxious 
to  gain  my  favor  in  this  line.  I  therefore  immediately 
laid  in  a  large  stock  of  necklaces,  rings,  red  handker- 
chiefs, perfumeries,  etc.,  and  prepared  to  defend  myself. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

,S  the  proper  names  of  persons  associated 
with  the  traveller,  or  connected  with 
this  narrative,  have  been  used,  it  being 
understood  that  the  American  news- 
paper correspondent  proposed  making 
public  acknowledgment  to  American 
readers,  of  their  kindness  to  the  solitary 
horseman,  there  will  be  no  strain  upon 
the  proprieties,  but  rather  a  feeling  of  gratification  on 
their  part  on  seeing  that  they  were  remembered. 

These  pages  may  reach  these  people,  and  perhaps 
some  of  them  may  be  deemed  worthy  of  translation  into 
the  Spanish  in  the  interest  of  friends,  and  the  cuts  will 
amuse  and  interest  the  Indians  who  do  not  read  any- 
thing, but  understand  picture-writing.  It  is  the  best 
method  of  supplying  an  object  or  picture  lesson  to  the 
natives,  who  will  quickly  identify  the  sketches  of  the 
** Americano,"  who,  as  they  express  it,  ''talks  in  a 
book." 

There  are  many  disadvantages  connected  with  life 
in  these  valleys,  as  compared  witli  that  in  other  lands. 
There  are  no  newspapers,  books  or  pictures.  There  is 
not  a  railroad  within  a  thousand  miles,  and  not  even 
a  wagon  wheel  in  all  that  region,  and  happily  the 
trolley  is  unknown.  Everything  goes  and  comes  over 
the  mountains  on  mules  or  carried  on  the  backs  of 
Indians,  and  the  supply  is  necessarily  limited. 

Of  course  there  is  no  telegraph,  telephone  or  electric 
296 


AN  ARCADIA  297 

light;  no  gas,  and  no  coal  to  make  heat.  It  is  never 
cold  or  hot,  and  scant  clothing  is  all  sufficient  the  year 
around.  One's  early  repose  is  not  disturbed  by  the 
screechings  of  newsboys  or  the  rattling  of  milk  carts 
and  bakers'  wagons.  Morning  coffee  is  not  interrupted 
by  the  reading  of  bulletins  or  the  head-lines  of  the 
great  dailies  whose  reputation  rests  upon  boasted  cir- 
culation, and  stock  quotations  do  not  affect  the  diges- 
tion of  our  Moyabamba  breakfast. 

The  mails  come  at  such  long  intervals  that  one  loses 
interest  in  the  delayed  correspondence.  As  it  is  packed 
or  ** toted"  on  the  backs  of  Indians,  the  pouches  are 
"limited"  to  letters,  papers  being  thrown  out  as  useless 
and  too  cumbersome.  The  people  here  do  not  have' 
the  benefit  of  the  instruction  of  great  statesmen  and 
politicians,  of  lecturers  and  sensational  preachers,  re- 
formers and  philanthropists. 

There  is  no  drunkenness,  except  among  the  Indians, 
though  all  who  can  afford  it  use  claret  at  meals.  Dys- 
pepsia is  unknown,  and  malaria  is  prevented  by  the  use 
of  a  bitters  made  of  a  decoction  of  Peruvian  bark  in 
the  rum  from  the  sugar  cane.  As  there  is  but  little 
sickness,  there  are  no  doctors,  and  Christian  Science  is 
unknown.  There  are  no  lawyers,  all  differences  being 
settled  by  reference  to  the  officials.  Neither  are  there 
any  Women's  Christian  Temperance  Societies,  Salva- 
tion Army  people,  or  typewriters.  There  are  no  jails 
or  large  prisons,  and  no  poorhouses  or  asylums  as 
are  necessary  in  our  land.  No  one  ever  starved  to 
death,  and  none  even  go  hungry  in  the  Land  of  To-Mor- 
row,  where  people  practice  the  Golden  Rule  and  share 
with  their  neighbors. 


298  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

There  are  no  great  manufacturing  monopolies,  sugar 
trusts  or  other  combines  of  capital  against  labor,  or  vice 
versa,  and  these  j^eople  are  blissfully  ignorant  of  the 
many  blessings  of  civilization  that .  great  enterprises 
bring.  Money  is  not  the  only  object  of  life  in  this  land 
where  there  is  an  abundance  of  everything — but  money. 

Comparisons  are  odious,  but  I  venture  to  add  that 
the  great  difference  between  the  two  civilizations  may 
be  found  in  the  fact  that  these  quiet  people  have  not 
learned  to  practice  the  characteristic  American  vice  of 
over-eagerness  to  accumulate  wealth  at  any  cost;  and 
they  certainly  exemplify  the  Golden  Rule,  and  are  not 
conspicuously  guilty  of  the  sin  of  ingratitude. 

In  this  Land  of  To-Morrow  money  will  not  purchase 
happiness;  gold  coins  will  not  buy  the  smiles  of  the 
poorest,  bare-footed  senoritas  of  Utopia,  all  of  whom 
must  be  approached  cavalierly  by  lovers  to  obtain 
their  favors.  We  all  have  the  weaknesses  inherent  to 
humanity,  but  these  so-called  ' '  ignorant  people ' '  are  in 
many  respects  stronger  than  we. 

They  certainly  get  more  pleasure  out  of  their  lives, 
with  all  their  limitations,  than  we  do  with  every  ad- 
vantage in  our  favor.  In  this  hidden  valley,  the  say- 
ing, "Where  ignorance  is  bliss,  'twere  folly  to  be  wise," 
becomes  a  practical  reality. 

A  conception  of  an  ideal  life  would  be  a  home  on  one 
of  the  beautiful  knolls  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains, 
overlooking  the  valley  of  Moyabamba,  where  one  could 
build  a  model  house  from  the  numerous  stones  to  be 
gathered  from  the  ground.  Hammer  or  chisel  should  not 
break  the  varied  surfaces  of  these  mossy  rocks  of  which 
the  outside  walls  would  be  laid  with  cement,  to  be  made 


AN  IDEAL  HOME  299 

also  from  the  ground.  There  should  be  many  rustic 
porches  and  verandas,  with  deep  windows,  framed  from 
the  beautiful  natural  woods  of  that  country.  On  the 
porches  could  be  grown  varieties  of  orchids,  making 
picturesque  hanging  gardens  under  which  to  swing 
hammocks.  Perhaps  such  a  house  would  present  an 
appearance  of  all  roof  and  gables  from  the  outside,  but 
within  there  would  be  a  comfortably  furnished  home, 
adapted  to  the  tastes  of  the  most  cultured.  One  should 
be  careful,  however,  to  locate  his  little  castle  on  an 
overhanging  knoll  of  the  mountain  side,  commanding  a 
view  of  all  the  land,  yet  difficult  of  approach. 

While  arranging  for  blissful  repose  in  this  ideal 
home,  in  the  society  of  congenial  friends,  one  should 
have  a  soldier  ^s  eye  to  the  defensive  position  from  at- 
tacks of  revolutionary  mobs,  that  might  result  from  the 
increasing  civilization  of  the  peaceful  valley. 

Though  the  people  of  this  land  may  have  been  of 
common  origin,  the  better  classes  preserve  to  a  great 
extent  the  old  world's  practice  and  teachings,  that 
family  and  blood  are  of  more  worth  than  numbers  in 
immigration,  and  incongruous  as  it  may  appear,  even  in 
this  far  away  lovely  valley,  locked  in  between  the  two 
Andes,  there  is  quite  a  distinctly  drawn  line  of  caste. 
It  is  not,  however,  a  moneyed  aristocracy,  but  in  every 
respect  that  of  family  and  good  breeding. 

Our  friends.  Colonel  Estaban  and  Judge  Herreira, 
represent  the  aristocratic  element  from  Lima  to  the 
coast,  while  Don  San  Martine  is  of  a  family  widely  and 
favorably  known  to  the  earliest  Peruvian  history. 

There  are  but  few  ladies  of  caste  amongst  the  Moya- 
bambians,  but  those  that  are  here  live  quite  exclusively. 


'.;00  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

They  do  not  make  hats,  and  would  scorn  to  do  any  work 
or  be  seen  even  carrying  a  package  in  this  wilderness. 
They  are  seldom  seen  on  the  streets,  but  when  they 
appear,  they  may  be  recognized  by  their  dress  and  bear- 
ing. They  are  the  only  ladies  who  wear  shoes ;  so  that, 
even  in  the  dark,  when  the  sound  of  a  number  of  little 
shoes  is  heard  tapping  along  on  the  narrow  sidewalk, 
everybody  instinctively  makes  way  for  the  passing  of 
the  senoras. 

Perhaps  the  Peruvian  ladies  of  the  upper  class  are 
not  always  as  handsome  as  their  barefooted  sisters,  who, 
if  they  may  not  talk  to  the  stranger,  can  speak  with 
their  pretty  eyes.  Experiences  in  early  life,  coupled 
with  close  study  and  some  observation  in  after  years, 
leads  to  the  confirmation  of  earlier  impressions  that  all 
women  are  flirts,  which  perhaps  accounts  for  the  other 
fact  that  all  men  are  liars  when  talking  to  women.  The 
combination  makes  quite  a  deal  of  trouble,  but  in  my 
travels  in  civilized  lands  and  out  of  the  way  places,  I 
have  never  been  able  to  find  a  section  where  there  are 
girls  and  no  flirts.  They  are  alike  in  all  lands.  Indian 
girls,  on  top  of  the  Andes,  who  have  never  seen  a  white 
man,  flirt  just  as  demurely  and  desperately  as  the  belles 
of  our  ball-rooms.  Girls  are  born  that  way;  they  can't 
help  it,  or  resist  the  disposition  of  the  original  Eve  of 
this  valley  to  get  Adam  into  trouble ;  yet, ' '  with  all  their 
faults,  we  love  them  still. ' ' 

Nestling  in  the  valley  between  the  first  two  ranges 
of  the  Cordilleras,  this  Amazonian  Utopia,  which  seems 
to  have  more  than  its  proportion  of  the  descendents  of 
Mother  Eve,  gives  other  evidences  that  it  may  have 
been  the  original  Paradise  of  the  original  Adam  and 


PART  OF  THE  ORIGINAL  EDEN  301 

Eve — from  the  abundance  and  variety  of  serpents,  gen- 
erally of  the  harmless  sort,  to  be  found  there.  Probably, 
with  the  one  thousand  old  men,  and  a  few  dons  and 
cavaliers,  or  Peruvian  gentlemen,  there  were  five  thous- 
and women,  and  great  numbers  of  snakes  in  the  moun- 
tains. During  the  month  of  my  stay  I  was  the  only 
blonde,  far  from  home,  and  at  the  mercy  of  these  five 
thousand  brunettes,  and  the  endless  chain  of  snakes. 

Of  the  number  of  pretty  senoritas,  probably  none 
attracted  more  attention  than  the  delicate  little  bare- 
footed, bareheaded  girl  of  the  street,  with  whom  I 
jokingly  played  Romeo  from  the  balcony  window,  in 
the  bright  light  of  a  tropical  day,  the  positions  being 
reversed,  Romeo  occupying  the  balcony  and  Juliet  the 
garden. 

She  wore  a  loose  gown  with  a  colored,  woven  sash 
about  the  waist,  characteristic  of  the  young  girls  of 
Moyabamba,  and  which  Miss  Marlowe  uses  in  the  cos- 
tume of  Juliet. 

By  way  of  making  my  poor  pen  picture  of  this  Ama- 
zonian Juliet  more  realistic,  the  reader  is  referred  to 
photographs  of  Julia  Marlowe  in  the  costume  of  Juliet, 
which  closely  resembles  the  little  girl  Inez,  but  without 
Miss  Marlowe's  dimple.  Inez  had  a  prematurely  old 
face,  with  that  peculiarly  sad  expression  of  the  dark 
eyes,  and  the  quiet,  indifferent  manner  of  Miss  Marlowe, 
as  also  the  careless  dressing  of  the  hair  and  the  graceful 
poise  of  the  head. 

Though  she  was  but  thirteen  (trece)  she  was  quite  a 
matured  woman  in  that  land,  where  girls  often  be- 
come wives  at  ten  and  eleven  years,  and  mothers  at 
thirteen. 


302  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

It  is  the  current  tradition  that  every  sojourner  in 
Moyabamba  becomes  the  accepted  lover  of  one  of  the 
belles,  and  when  he  takes  his  departure  she  accompanies 
him. 

It  is  said  with  some  truth  that  any  of  the  girls  are 
glad  of  an  opportunity  to  escape  from  this  pent-up 
Utica.  They  probably  realize  that  there  are  no  oppor- 
tunities for  marrying  in  their  own  land,  where  there 
are  so  many  girls  and  so  few  men.  It  is  also  true,  that 
as  a  rule  the  senoritas  prefer  suitors  from  beyond  the 
narrow  limits  of  their  own  world. 

Those  of  the  lower  classes  are  not  particular  as  to 
the  antecedents  of  their  blondes,  nor  solicitous  regard- 
ing their  financial  standing.  The  prime  qualification 
and  only  condition  being  that  her  suitor  should  love 
her.  She  takes  all  the  rest  on  faith.  If  he  loves  her 
and  she  loves  him,  she  is  contented  and  happy,  and 
will  follow  him  faithfully  to  the  ends  of  the  earth,  or 
until  death — and  after  all,  isn't  that  phase  of  civiliza- 
tion better  than  some,  at  least,  of  our  mercenary, 
scheming  sorts? 

Of  course,  she  and  her  friends  stipulate  for  the  mar- 
riage ceremony  in  the  church,  but  if  that  is  not  prac- 
ticable, some  of  them  are  willing  to  dispense  with  the 
services  of  a  priest  until  a  more  convenient  season. 

With  the  view  of  avoiding  any  tangling  alliances,  and 
desiring  to  lead  among  these  people  the  exemplary  life 
becoming  an  American  citizen,  it  seemed  diplomatic 
that  attentions  to  these  senoritas  should  be  promiscuous, 
admiring  each  new  girl  more  than  the  other. 

On  account  of  her  youth  I  thought  Inez  would  be 
considered  a    mere  child    and  out    of  the    question; 


ROMEO  AND  JULIET  303 

that  a  stranger  naturally  would  show  some  attention 
to  the  little  *' Julief  who  lived  opposite,  and  was  more 
in  evidence  because  she  was  a  pretty  child.  She  spent 
much  of  her  time  sitting  in  the  doorway,  laughing  and 
chatting  with  her  companions,  occasionally  throwing 
wicked  glances  from  her  dark  eyes  toward  my  balcony. 

A  beautiful  hand-made  poncho  of  brilliant,  well 
assorted  colors  peculiar  to  the  Spanish  taste,  was  hung 
as  a  screen  or  portierre  before  my  window.  It  was  of 
extra  quality,  fine  in  texture  and  quite  gorgeous  in  its 
striped  coloring.  With  a  natural  love  for  the  beautiful, 
she  expressed  her  admiration  of  the  poncho,  or  rug. 

She  was  jestingly  told  that  it  was  for  her  to  wear 
when  she  rode  with  the  stranger  to  Lima.  In  that 
country  the  people  are  apt  to  take  the  free  talking  of 
an  American  too  seriously.  She  asked  at  once,  **Can 
I  go  to  Lima  with  you?'* 

*'0f  course,"  I  replied,  jokingly. 

She  then  said,  **You  must  ask  my  madre." 

We  discussed  the  matter  for  awhile  in  a  jesting  way, 
just  as  I  would  have  done  with  any  young  girl  of  my 
acquaintance,  never  for  a  moment  thinking  that 
the  subject  would  be  seriously  considered. 

I  had  almost  forgotten  the  incident,  when  the  madre 
(who,  by  the  way,  was  her  grandmother,  her  parents 
being  dead),  came  to  me  to  ascertain  the  terms  upon 
which  I  should  take  her  granddaughter  into  my  care 
and  keeping. 

It  is  not  at  all  an  exaggeration,  or  even  a  stretch  of 
the  imagination  to  record  that  this  grandmother  was 
prepared  to  sell  her  granddaughter  to  me,  the  only  con- 
sideration being  the  number  of  pieces  of  silver. 


304  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

In  all  my  readings  of  romance  and  fiction,  and  dur- 
ing all  my  extensive  travels  and  encounterings  of  queer 
people,  I  had  never  yet  come  across  anything  in  cold 
fact  quite  approaching  this. 

A  beautiful,  a  really  beautiful  girl  was  offered  for 
sale;  that  is,  her  grandmother's  consent  was  given, 
which  in  effect  and  under  Peruvian  law  is  all  that  is 
required  to  make  the  girl  an  actual  slave,  for  a  trifling 
price  to  be  paid  to  another.  Of  course,  this  would  not 
stand  without  the  consent  of  the  third  party,  which 
in  this  case  had  been  previously  volunteered. 

It  was  a  revelation  to  me,  but  the  Napo  interpreter, 
who  was  present  as  a  grinning  witness  of  my  astonish- 
ment, assured  me  that  such  a  transaction  was  a  common 
occurrence. 

It  is  difficult  for  a  stranger  to  these  customs  to 
reconcile  this  feature  of  their  civilization  with  our 
own.  But  it  must  be  understood  that  in  these  countries, 
though  the  marriage  ceremonies  are  frequently  dis- 
pensed with  on  account  of  the  expense  and  other  diffi- 
culties, it  is  a  common  practice  for  persons  to  live  hap- 
pily together  all  their  lives,  without  reproach.  They 
are  true  to  their  love. 

I  was  assured  that  if  I  desired  the  girl  to  accompany 
me  to  Lima  it  was  only  necessary  for  me  to  secure  the 
consent  of  this  old  guardian,  and  that  the  law  would 
protect  the  transaction. 

I  modestly  declined  to  negotiate,  and  desiring  to  con- 
fer with  Col.  Estaban  and  others,  with  a  view  of  learn- 
ing the  facts,  another  interview  was  suggested  for  the 
following  evening. 

In  looking  the  matter  up,  it  was  found  that  as  an 


SPANISH  MATRIMONIAL  LAW  305 

abstract  question  of  law,  the  government  does  not 
take  any  account  of  women;  that  is,  they  are  not 
recognized  in  law,  but  are  permitted  to  do  as  they 
please  in  disposing  of  themselves,  no  questions  being 
asked  of  a  girl,  if  her  parents  are  satisfied. 

According  to  Spanish  law,  a  father's  consent  to  a 
marriage  must  be  had,  until  the  girl  is  twenty-six 
years  of  age,  but  she  can  leave  home  at  any  time,  and 
the  parents  cannot  prevent  it  or  compel  her  return, 
although  the  father  can  prevent  her  marriage. 

Subsequently,  the  little  girl  herself  visited  me,  prob- 
ably at  her  madre  's  suggestion.  In  her  serious,  honest, 
and  yet  innocent  manner,  she  implored  me  to  take  her 
away  to  Lima,  or  to  America,  or  any  place — she  would 
go  anywhere  with  me.  When  I  attempted  in  a  friendly 
way  to  advise  her  against  going  out  in  the  wicked 
world,  she  insisted  that  she  must  go  away,  intimating 
that  a  worse  fate  would  be  hers  if  she  remained.  With 
hands  clasped  together,  she  stood  beside  me,  the  very 
picture  of  a  determined  little  princess,  and  looking 
earnestly  into  my  face,  told  me  her  story. 

Her  father  had  been  a  Spanish  or  Peruvian  military 
officer,  who  was  killed  in  the  late  war  with  Chili;  her 
grandparents,  who  were  descendents  of  the  Inca,  had 
also  been  military  people;  her  mother,  one  of  Moya- 
bamba's  famous  belles,  had  died  when  she  was  a  child. 

There  were  several  in  the  family,  all  of  them  younger 
than  herself  and  dependent  upon  the  grandmother,  who 
could  not  support  them,  and  her  remaining  there  was 
worse  than  death  to  her. 

It  was  her  desire  to  go  to  Lima,  where  she  could 
meet  some  friends  of  her  father's.    Her  voice  became 


306  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

tremulous  with  emotion,  and  she  continued,  sobbing, 
''If  you  do  not  take  me,  I  will  kill  myself/' 

I  consented  that  she  should  go,  provided  her  grand- 
mother would  go  with  her  as  her  protector,  and  my 
cook.  I  had  previously  agreed  with  Col.  Estaban  to 
allow  two  women  to  go  in  my  party,  on  condition  that 
they  acted  as  cooks,  by  way  of  paying  for  their 
food,  etc. 

In  travelling  across  the  mountains,  a  cook  is  one  of 
the  chief  requisites.  It  was  the  custom  for  women 
and  children  to  attach  themselves  to  parties  going 'over 
the  mountains,  and  for  the  safety  thus  afforded  them 
and  for  their  food,  they  did  the  cooking  for  the 
company. 

My  offer  was  to  take  Inez  and  her  grandmother,  in 
place  of  the  two  women  who  had  been  suggested  to 
me.  They  could  both  ride  upon  the  same  mule,  and  the 
additional  expense  would  be  trifling.  This  was  more 
than  satisfactory,  for  the  grandmother  had  intended 
going  later,  if  an  opportunity  offered,  taking  the 
brother  of  Inez  with  her. 

After  Inez  left  me,  I  feared  that  I  had  undertaken 
too  much,  and  told  the  guide  to  so  inform  the  grand- 
mother, but  was  assured  that  it  was  a  matter  of  busi- 
ness and  a  real  kindness,  it  was  not  at  all  an  imprac- 
ticable proposition.  Not  hearing  from  either  the 
grandmother  or  the  princess  Inez  (she  said  ''Eness,  at 
your  service"),  I  gave  it  up  as  the  end  of  a  joke  which 
I  had  carried  on  as  an  experiment. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

OST  reluctantly,  we  arranged  to  leave 
our  Arcadia  in  the  Land  of  To- 
Morrow,  homeward  bound  by  way 
of  the  Pacific  and  Panama,  instead 
of  the  Amazon,  the  season  of  rains 
beginning  in  October  making  it 
advisable  that  we  undertake  the 
crossing  of  the  further  Andes  while  the  trails  were  dry. 
Through  the  friendly  and  business  interest  of  my 
friend  and  protege,  Don  Carlos  Mouraille,  of  Iquitos,  1 
had  been  provided  with  letters  of  credit  to  his  corres- 
pondent, Sr.  Vincent  Najar,  a  prominent  merchant  who 
was  largely  engaged  in  the  business,  and  who  had  been 
over  the  route  several  times.  He  made  all  the  arrange- 
ments and  provided  us  with  cooked  provisions  instead 
of  cooks  (the  Indians  to  prepare  the  meals  for  us) 
and  with  three  riding  mules  and  three  pack  mules  to 
carry  us  and  our  supplies. 

On  one  of  those  perfect  October  mornings  to  be  en- 
joyed on  the  Equator  in  the  Andes,  we  made  our  final 
calls  on  the  Prefect  and  other  friends.  Then,  mount- 
ing the  mules,  and  followed  by  the  Napo  guide,  we  were 
escorted  to  the  edge  of  the  settlement  by  the  judge  and 
some  friends,  where  they  gave  us  a  sincere  and  last 
adios. 

Our  route  continued  through  the  valley  for  some  dis- 
tance, the  path  or  camino  having  the  appearance  of 
a  swath  cut  through  a  dense  thicket  of  bamboo  and 

307 


308  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

wild  sugar  cane.  Toward  noon  we  forded  the  river  and 
began  a  wild  ascent  of  one  of  the  smaller  foothills 
of  the  large  mountain. 

Inez  and  her  grandmother  had  not  been  heard  from 
during  the  previous  day,  and  concluding  that  they 
had  reconsidered  the  matter  as  I  expected  they  would, 
I  was  more  than  astonished  when  the  grandmother  and 
some  of  her  friends  met  us,  unaccompanied  by  Inez. 
To  my  further  consternation,  I  was  informed  that  she 
was  a  mile  or  so  ahead,  waiting  for  us,  the  grandmother 
coolly  explaining  that  she  had  brought  her  granddaugh- 
ter thus  far,  and  that  she  herself  was  returning  to 
Moyabamba,  to  make  some  preparations  to  follow 
later;  for  which  purpose  she  asked  me  for  some  money 
to  pay  her  expenses. 

I  felt  as  if  I  were  being  held  up  by  a  bandit,  and 
helplessly  gave  her  all  the  money  I  had  in  my  saddle 
bags,  which  was  exactly  ten  pieces  of  silver — "soles'' 
or  dollars — feeling  quite  relieved  to  get  off  so  easy. 

Approaching  a  small  village  toward  evening,  we 
were  halted  again  on  the  trail  by  two  women,  one  of 
whom  was  Inez  and  the  other  the  old  cook.  The  unex- 
pected appearance  of  the  trusting  little  girl,  smilingly 
handing  her  bundle  up  for  me  to  carry,  caused  me  to 
swallow  my  indignation  at  the  cook's  presence,  the 
Napo  adroitly  observing  that  Inez  was  now  under 
proper  protection. 

"While  in  Moyabamba,  the  cunning  fellow  had  been 
arranging  matters  to  suit  himself,  though  pretending 
to  act  as  my  interpreter.  It  was  now  too  late  to  remedy 
the  ridiculous  situation  in  which  the  Napo  had  involved 
me  in  the  wilds  of  Amazonia  from  his  insane  desire  to 


THE  INTERPRETER'S  TRICKERY         309 

imitate  me.  When  it  was  jokingly  arranged  for  the 
girl's  journey,  he  had  concluded  that  he  would  take 
the  old  cook  for  his  share,  and  had  successfully  planned 
to  substitute  her  for  the  grandmother.  It  subsequently 
transpired  that  the  whole  town  knew  of  the  affair,  but 
considered  it  a  very  proper  matter  of  business.  Though 
there  are  no  newspapers,  gossip  and  scandal  circulate 
very  widely. 

Sr.  Najar  also  seemed  to  have  appreciated  the  situ- 
ation, as  he  had  slyly  furnished  an  extra  pack  mule  and 
some  additional  provisions.  Some  months  afterwards, 
my  friend  Don  Carlos  laughingly  informed  me  that  the 
whole  country,  even  down  to  Para,  had  heard  of  the 
episode  which  we  imagined  was  being  kept  so  quiet  in 
the   forests   of  Amazonia. 

One  of  my  friends,  however,  our  genial  Colonel 
Estaban,  did  not  especially  enjoy  the  episode. 

The  little  Inez,  who  significantly  asked  me  if  the 
Prefect  had  escorted  us  out  of  town  as  was  the  custom, 
was  amusingly  relieved  when  I  informed  her  that  he 
was  unfortunately  absent.  It  subsequently  developed 
that  Inez,  who  was  the  little  girl  he  was  in  love  with 
and  was  disposed  to  claim  as  one  of  his  special  pre- 
rogatives, had  "escaped"  with  the  Don  Consul;  but 
alas,  alas!  there  is  no  telling  the  ways  and  tricks  to 
which  even  Indian  girls  may  resort,  to  outwit  the  veter- 
ans of  our  boasted  civilization. 

As  we.  emerge  from  the  forests  of  fluvial  Amazonia 
and  ascend  higher  lands,  -the  types,  or  physical 
characteristics  of  the  natives  are  correspondingly  im- 
proved with  the  scenery,  it  seeming  to  be  the  natural 


310  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

law  of  the  land,  that  intellectual  attainment  is  de- 
veloped in  direct  ratio  with  the  altitudes. 

In  arranging  for  our  complement  of  Indian  guides 
beyond  or  west  of  Moyabamba,  we  were  advised  that 
it  was  best  to  leisurely  await  an  opportunity  to  join 
the  return  of  a  convoy  of  Indians  who  would  come 
from  that  direction  with  carga.  It  was  explained  that 
the  Indians  of  the  warm  valley  of  Moyabamba  could 
not  be  depended  upon  to  cross  the  Central  Andes 
where  it  was  often  so  cold  at  night  that  they  suffered 
because  of  their  scant  attire.  Instead  of  sensibly  pro- 
viding fires,  or  warmer  clothing,  they  would  shiver 
awhile,  and  then  run  away  from  the  '*cold  devil," 
leaving  the  traveller  to  starve  or  freeze  on  top  of  the 
mountains. 

Our  escort  was  composed  of  a  party  of  three  half- 
breeds  and  eight  or  ten  mules,  who  had  come  out  with  a 
cargo  of  goods  for  the  merchant,  Vicent  Najar,  and 
were  returning  with  comparatively  little,  except  that 
one  mule  was  loaded  with  silver  coin  sewed  up  in 
skins,  which  was  going  to  the  coast  as  a  remittance 
or  payment  for  the  goods. 

The  proprietor  or  owner  of  the  mules,  Andreas  Rim- 
mache,  who  accompanied  the  party  with  his  sons  or 
relatives,  lived  in  the  valley  of  Molina  Pampas,  near 
the  top  of  the  Central  Andes,  and  was  therefore  accus- 
tomed to  the  climate  and  knew  the  country  thoroughly. 
To  his  care,  future  travellers  over  the  Andes  are  recom- 
mended. 

I  had  intended  that  the  Napo  guide  should  leave  here, 
but  he  had  begged  to  accompany  us  from  this  point  as 
a  servant,  piteously  stipulating  that  he  should  not  be 


INTERPRETER  ON  HIS  DIGNITY  311 

called  upon  to  perform  any  menial  duty  while  in  the 
towns.  This  was  brought  about  by  an  experience 
illustrating  another  of  the  odd  characteristics  of  some 
of  these  people.  Though  wretchedly  poor  themselves, 
the  half-breed  class  are  proud,  and  however  needy, 
they  cannot  be  prevailed  upon  to  wait  upon  other 
Indians  or  do  that  which  would  look  like  menial  service, 
which  is  left  to  Indian  servants,  who  are  cheap  and 
plenty. 

One  evening  the  Indian  washerwoman  returned  our 
clothes — without  ironing,  as  is  the  custom — and  left 
the  bundle  in  one  of  the  rooms  of  my  quarters.  As 
the  Napo's  clothes  were  in  my  bundle,  he  was  directed 
to  separate  them  and  bring  those  belonging  to  me  to  my 
room.  He  took  his  own  out  leisurely,  and  after  some 
delay,  I  mildly  inquired  about  mine.  He  replied,  just 
as  mildly,  that  he  could  not  find  a  boy. 

"Why  don't  you  do  it?"  I  asked  in  disgust. 

'*I  will  not,"  he  said  with  calm  emphasis. 

* '  Then  go  to  the  devil  or  back  to  Iquitos ! "  I  retorted, 
angrily.  **I  am  not  above  carrying  my  own  linen  to 
the  next  house,  and  you  are  no  better ! ' ' 

I  explained,  emphatically,  that  I  did  not  require  his 
companionship  any  longer,  but  subsequently,  he  begged 
to  be  allowed  to  continue  with  me,  as  stipulated. 

My  friend,  Col.  Estaban,  who  spoke  excellent  Eng- 
lish, had  kindly  cautioned  me  against  the  Napo  half- 
breed,  intimating  that  he  was  misrepresenting  himself, 
and  making  use  of  the  assumed  relation  for  his  own 
benefit. 

The  appearance  of  the  old  cook,  along  with  the 
Inca,  seemed  to  confirm  these  hints.     It  was  evident 


312  THE  LAND  OFTO-MORROW 

that  the  Napo  had  arranged  to  have  the  cook  take  the 
place  of  the  grandmother. 

"When  the  little  girl  came  running  up  to  me  with  her 
bundle  in  her  arms  and  smiling  assuringly,  I  could  not 
reject  her,  but  felt  somehow  as  if  it  were  my  duty  to 
take  care  of  her  until  the  grandmother  should  join  us, 
which  she  had  said  she  would  do,  even  though  it  in- 
volved the  incubas  of  the  cook  and  the  Napo  for  a  few 
days. 

There  was  no  provision  for  mules  on  the  first  day, 
and  the  women,  in  their  bare  feet,  had  started  ahead. 
In  reply  to  my  suggestion  that  Inez  should  get  on 
behind  with  me,  she  laughingly  declined,  saying  that 
she  preferred  to  walk. 

As  she  tripped  along  gaily  and  happily  by  ni}^  side, 
she  explained  that  her  madre  would  join  us  with  her 
brother,  and  all  would  go  to  Lima  together,  which 
struck  me  as  rather  more  than  bargained  for.  I  mildly 
endeavored  to  tell  her  that  I  didn't  want  to  run  away 
with  the  whole  family. 

A  dark  cloud  in  the  western  horizon,  that  appears  in 
the  afternoons  at  that  season,  threatened  to  drench 
us  before  we  could  reach  the  proposed  camp  or  shelter 
of  the  tambo.  Inez  urged  me  to  ride  ahead,  leaving 
her  and  the  cook  to  take  the  downpour.  She  was 
given  one  of  my  rubber  ponchos,  which  she  threw  over 
her  head,  and  with  a  glance  of  appreciation,  ran  on  like 
a  frightened  deer. 

In  the  evening,  in  a  drenching  rain,  we  again  crossed 
the  Mayo  river  in  canoes,  swimming  the  mules,  and 
camped  in  the  tambo  on  the  other  shore.  The  cook 
prepared  coffee,  while  the  Napo  arranged  the  beds  for 


^^^^^^^^^■^'           A-^  ' 

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THE  FIRST  NIGHT  IN  CAMP  313 

the  night.  As  soon  as  it  became  dark,  all  turned  in; 
the  cook  and  Inez  under  the  same  blanket. 

A  fire  burned  brightly  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  tambo, 
around  which  the  Indians  sat,  or  rather  crouched,  and 
chatted  long  after  I  had  gone  to  sleep,  to  dream  of  the 
many  curious  experiences  to  be  enjoyed  in  out  of  the 
way  places,  and  that  are  not  to  be  obtained  by  the 
payment  of  money,  so  often  required  to  insure  the  hos- 
pitalities of  modern  life. 

The  next  morning,  after  the  usual  coffee,  the  cook 
and  Inez  prepared  to  start  ahead  of  the  party  to  the 
next  town  of  Riajo,  a  couple  of  leagues  distant  on  the 
other  side  of  which  they  would  again  join  us. 

With  a  desire  to  add  to  the  scant  attire  of  the  little 
princess  that  she  would  be  more  comfortable  when 
reaching  the  cold  places,  I  attempted  to  slip  into  her 
hands  a  few  silver  soles,  or  dollars,  to  enable  her  to 
purchase  in  the  town  what  she  needed.  It  was  not  a 
large  sum,  but  probably  more  than  had  ever  touched 
her  palm  before.  Instead  of  eagerly  grasping  the  coin, 
however,  to  my  embarrassment  she  held  it  hesitatingly 
in  her  open  hand,  so  that  everybody  could  see,  glanc- 
ing with  surprise  at  the  tempting  coin,  and  inquiringly 
toward  me,  as  if  doubting  my  sincerity. 

The  more  practical  cook  relieved  the  situation  by 
urging  her  to  get  ready  to  go  to  Riajo  and  buy  a  hat, 
which  was  just  the  one  thing  that  she  didn't  need,  but 
that  all  seem  to  think  necessary,  even  if  the  body  is 
half  uncovered.  The  Indians  of  this  region  all  wear 
hats,  but  no  shoes. 

The  town  of  Riajo,  in  appearance  like  all  the  rest, 
is  situated  near  the  eastern  or  upper  end  of  the  valley, 


314  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

about  two  days'  travel  from  Moyabamba,  which  is 
in  the  centre. 

We  had  breakfast  with  the  Alcalde  or  Governador,  to 
whom  I  was  endorsed  by  Colonel  Estaban.  There  were, 
in  the  house,  two  pretty  daughters  of  this  Governador, 
one  nursing  a  bouncing  baby  and  the  other  perched  on 
a  windo-w  shelf  indifferently  making  hats. 

The  young  mother  being  rather  the  prettiest  of  the 
two,  I  essayed  to  compliment  her  on  her  nice  baby, 
when  she  asked  me  how  many  boys  I  had. 

**0h,"  I  exclaimed,  in  affected  surprise,  **I  am  not 
married.*' 

She  did  not  seem  to  understand,  but  persisted,  ''Yes, 
but  you  have  some  boys." 

''No,  indeed,"  I  replied,  "but  I  would  like  to  have 
a  nice  little  boy  like  yours;  but  the  trouble  is,  all  the 
nice  girls  like  you  are  married  to  somebody." 

"But,"  she  said  demurely,  '^I  am  not  married  to 
anybody. ' ' 

At  the  risk  of  the  conversation  becoming  embar- 
rassing, I  continued:  "I  wonder  if  I  can  find  as  nice  a 
girl  as  you  in  Lima,  where  I  am  going  V ' 

"Oh,"  she  said  with  a  laugh,  "you  don't  need  to 
worry  about  that  as  long  as  you  have  one  along." 

We  had  supposed,  as  a  matter  of  course,  that  no 
one  knew  about  the  princess  and  the  cook,  who  had 
gone  through  ahead  of  us,  but  the  Governador 's  daugh- 
ters, as  well  as  the  father  and  mother  thought  it  compli- 
mentary to  the  young  girl  that  the  Americano  had 
consented  to  escort  her. 

In  the  evening  we  reached  a  beautiful  location  for 
our  camp,  on  the  grassy  knoll  around  which  a  stream 


INEZ  SHOPPING  315 

of  clear  water  coursed,  in  the  upper  end  of  the  lovely- 
valley,  just  at  the  base  of  the  foothills  of  the  Central 
Andes.  Here  we  were  again  joined  by  Inez  and  the 
old  cook,  the  latter  looking  quite  fatigued,  but  the 
little  Indian  princess  was  laughing  and  looked  fresh 
and  bright  as  she  ran  along,  a  brand  new  Panama  hat 
tipped  back  on  her  head,  her  long  black  hair  flowing 
loosely,  a  red  cotton  handkerchief  around  her  throat, 
and  a  sash  binding  her  loose  gown  to  her  slender 
waist. 

Advancing  proudly  to  exhibit  her  purchases,  the 
odor  of  perfumery  was  so  noticeable  that  I  could 
scarcely  avoid  showing  my  curiosity.  As  if  lifting 
her  hat  in  salute,  she  handed  me  her  new  Panama, 
which  was  worth  about  one  sole,  pointing  to  the  hand- 
kerchief around  her  throat,  which  was  worth  a  few 
pennies,  as  trophies  of  her  skill  in  shopping.  The  cook 
supplemented  the  scene  with  the  comment  that  the 
balance — some  two-thirds  of  the  allowance — ^had  been 
expended  in  Florida  water. 

Greatly  amused,  I  laughed  hilariously,  to  Inez'  con- 
fusion and  astonishment.  She  was  assured,  however, 
that  her  efforts  for  improvement  were  fully  appre- 
ciated, as  I  sniffed  again  and  again,  with  pretended 
delight,  the  really  nice  perfume.  She  had  fairly  satur- 
ated her  thick  dark  hair  with  the  contents  of  a  couple 
of  bottles  that  were  quite  high-priced  in  that  land. 
Florida  water  from  New  York,  and  beer  from  Germany, 
may  be  found  on  top  of  all  the  Andes. 

There  was  something  of  the  Indian  in  Inez,  but  it 
was  of  the  Inca  type  of  the  mountains,  whose  blood 


316  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

had  descended  through  generations  of  the  Spanish 
Peruvians  into  the  people  of  the  valleys. 

The  Inca,  though  conquered  and  almost  annihilated 
by  Pizarro's  cruelties,  never  became  a  Spaniard.  The 
Inca,  conquering  the  Indian,  made  an  Inca  of  him,  but 
the  Spaniard  never  made  a  Spaniard  of  the  Inca,  and, 
whatever  may  be  the  philosophy  of  the  books,  the 
facts  are  apparent  in  the  blood  of  the  Incas,  as  shown 
in  their  descendents. 

While  the  Napo  guide  and  the  cook  prepared  supper 
for  us,  Inez,  in  her  childish  glee,  tripped  about  the 
grassy  knoll,  her  bright  face  reflecting  the  last  rays  of 
the  crimson  sun,  which  was  sinking  behind  the  western 
Andes.  She  was  the  living  concentration  of  the  ardent 
sunshine  of  fifteen  consecutive  summers,  which  warmed 
the  blood  which  flowed  through  her  veins,  lending  her 
beauty  and  animation  and  causing  her  to  blossom 
into  this  orchid,  or  La  Flor  de  los  Andes. 

The  little  Inca  princess  wore  a  necklace  of  the  teeth 
of  young  monkeys,  which  are  pure  white  and  of  a 
peculiar  shape.  They  were  strung  on  a  fine  tendril 
as  tough  as  wire.  Alternating  each  tooth  was  either 
a  red  shell  or  berry,  some  uncut  Brazilian  pebbles 
that  resembled  rough  diamonds,  and  also  some  native 
opals  such  as  are  found  in  volcanic  countries,  with  a 
string  of  alligator  or  tiger  teeth  pendant. 

After  dark  the  cook  and  Inez  enjoyed  a 
bath  in  the  flowing  river  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.  Bath- 
ing in  the  rivers  of  this  land  is  free  to  both  sexes. 
There  is  something  of  that  indifference  to  the  con- 
ventionalities of  dry  land  as  may  be  found  at  our 
seaside  resorts.     The   difference   is  not   of  style,  but 


AN  UNFORGOTTEN  NIGHT  ON  THE  ANDES  317 

rather  of  the  necessity  which  compels  the  adoption  of 
scant  bathing  costumes. 

Under  the  thatched  palm  tambo  were  spread  the 
blankets  of  our  party,  including  those  of  a  few  Indians 
who  had  come  in  from  an  opposite  course. 

The  carga,  as  it  is  called,  including  saddles,  packs, 
provisions  and  coin,  was  piled  on  the  edges  as  a  sort 
of  protection  from  draft,  and  for  safety  and  conven- 
ience. It' was  altogether  quite  like  a  dormitory.  The 
*  May-down'*  of  Inez  and  the  cook  was  placed  in  a 
secluded  corner  flanked  by  the  saddles  and  baggage. 

Awakened  from  a  dream  by  the  sound  of  suppressed 
sobbing  almost  smothered  by  the  snores  of  the  Indians, 
I  glanced  over  the  sleeping  figures  and  saw,  sitting 
by  the  dying  embers  of  the  camp  fire,  the  crouching 
form  of  the  Inca  princess. 

(Referring  to  my  notebook,  which  contains  the  auto- 
graph of  the  small  savage,  written  in  good  style,  are 
these  words,  that  express  more  forcibly  than  I  can 
depict  in  these  pages,  the  pathos  of  this  scene:  "A 
night's  experience  on  the  knoll  never  to  be  forgotten. 
The  little  Inca  in  tears.") 

Rising  quietly,  with  blanket  thrown  over  my  shoul- 
ders, I  approached  her,  but  was  received  with  cool  in- 
difference. When  asked  to  tell  her  trouble,  assuring  her 
of  my  sympathy,  she  seemed  to  feel  more  uncomfortable, 
and  would  only  say  in  Spanish,  *'I  don't  want  to  go 
back." 

It  seemed  that  through  some  false  interpretation  of 
the  Napo,  who  had  been  jealous  of  the  girl,  he  had 
threatened  her  with  a  return  to  Moyabamba.  He  had 
exaggerated  my  indignation  at  his  own  conduct  to  mean 


318  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

that  if  a  favorable  opportunity  occurred,  they  should 
be  sent  back  home,  that  I  might  be  relieved  of  all  re- 
sponsibility. 

Surrounded  by  sleeping  Indians,  in  the  quiet  of  a 
midnight,  in  the  shadows  of  the  Andes,  I  assured  her 
of  my  protection,  and  that  she  should  not  be  afraid  of 
the  Napo.  Through  glistening  tears,  she  gave  me  thank- 
ful glances. 

When  urged  to  return  to  her  bed  with  the  cook, 
as  the  night  air  was  chilling,  she  declined  with  that 
odd  resistance  characteristic  of  the  blood,  saying  pet- 
tishly that  she  wanted  coifee;  and,  perhaps  to  gratify 
a  desire  to  be  even  with  the  Napo,  she  insisted  upon 
making  him  get  out  of  his  blanket  to  wait  upon  her, 
by  getting  the  coffee  and  sugar  from  the  pack  of 
provisions. 

She  would  scarcely  look  at  him,  but  sat  by  the  fire, 
requiring  that  everything  be  laid  at  her  feet,  while 
she  made  such  coffee  as  only  a  Moyabamba  girl  can 
make. 

From  my  cot  I  watched  with  amused  interest, 
her  deft  fingers,  as  she  proceeded  with  the  operation, 
shielding  her  eyes  from  the  smoke  with  one  hand,  while 
she  manipulated  the  fire  and  the  coffee  pot  with  the 
other. 

After  it  had  been  prepared  exactly  to  suit  her  taste 
she  glided  over  to  my  cot,  and  kneeling  down  familiarly, 
served  me  with  coffee.  In  the  moonlight  of  the  Andes^ 
we  drank  together  this  cup  of  friendship. 


WE  DRANK  FROM  THE  SAME  CUP'       319 


"There  are  bonds  of  all  sorts  in  this  world  of  ours, 
Fetters  of  friendship  and  ties  of  flowers. 

And  true  lovers'  knots,  I  ween. 
The  boy  and  the  girl  are  bound  by  a  kiss, 
But  there  was  never  a  bond,  old  friends,  like  this. 

We  drank  (coffee)  from  the  same  canteen." 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

T  is  while  we  sleep  that  the  events  of 
the  days  and  nights  spent  on  the  edge 
of  this  paradise  are  forgotten.  The 
mild  southern  moon  looked  down  be- 
nignantly  upon  our  wakefulness.  It  was 
only  after  it  had  dipped  behind  the 
towering  Andes  that  we  slept  sweetly 
under  the  mantle  of  its  deep  shadows — 
shadows  that  induced  repose  as  quiet  and  restful  as  the 
mountains  themselves. 

The  red  glare  of  the  rising  sun  in  our  eastern  horizon 
cast  its  penetrating  beams  beneath  the  roofs  of  our 
arbor  of  palm  leaves,  reflecting  a  crimson  blush  upon 
our  indolence,  causing  us  to  rise  and  dress  quickly. 

The  Indians  had  arisen  early,  as  is  their  custom,  the 
packs  having  gone  ahead,  leaving  Andreas  with  the 
saddles  to  await  our  pleasure. 

Each  mule  will  carry  over  the  Andes  five  or  six 
arrobas  of  twenty-five  pounds  each.  There  were  several 
mules  going  back  partly  loaded,  and  it  was  easily 
arranged  with  the  thrifty  Andreas  to  provide  riding 
accommodations  for  Inez  and  the  cook  separately,  on 
top  of  the  lighter  packs  that  had  been  divided  to  suit. 
As  there  were  no  extra  saddles,  this  gave  them  more 
comfortable  seats  than  the  bare  backs  of  frisky  mules 
accustomed  to  packs  only.  There  is  a  difference  be- 
tween pack  and  riding  mules,  as  one  will  find  out 
suddenly  who  tries  to  ride  a  pack  mule. 

320 


RIDING  ON  PACK  MULES  321 

It  is  the  universal  custom  in  that  country  for  women 
to  ride  astride  of  their  horses  the  same  as  men.  At 
first  sight  this  may  not  seem  genteel,  but  after  one  be- 
comes accustomed  to  it,  you  realize  that  it  is  another 
evidence  that  in  their  wildness,  their  civilization  is  as 
advanced  as  our  own.  It  is  better  suited  to  the  animal 
and  is  more  comfortable  and  secure  as  well  as  more 
graceful  for  the  lady  riders. 

The  little  Indian  girl,  like  all  the  others,  had  been 
accustomed  to  ride  ponies  on  the  pampas,  but  was 
rather  averse  to  getting  on  a  mule,  saying  that  she  pre- 
ferred to  walk.  Though  poor  and  of  humble  associa- 
tions, she  was  as  proud  and  high  spirited  as  a  genuine 
princess.  The  argument  that  I  rode  a  mule  had  no 
bearing  on  her  case.  It  was  only  after  Andreas  had  ex- 
plained that  horses  could  not  climb  the  paths  over  the 
mountains  that  she  consented  to  be  lifted  to  the  back 
of  a  mule. 

I  had  given  her  the  use  of  the  fancy  poncho,  pre- 
viously described,  of  fine  wool  colored  in  the  stripes  of 
the  Spanish  taste.  A  poncho  is  simply  a  fine  travelling 
blanket  or  shawl,  or  as  the  English  would  call  it,  a  rug. 
It  is  woven  square,  the  only  difference  being  that  the 
poncho  has  an  opening  in  the  middle  large  enough  to 
pass  over  the  head.  It  rests  on  the  shoulders  loosely, 
permitting  the  folds  to  fall  gracefully  around  the 
form,  while  the  stripes  running  across,  are  not  con- 
cealed in  these  folds  as  is  the  case  with  our  draperies. 

If  it  were  possible  to  photograph  or  paint  a  com- 
bination of  rich  coloring  surrounding  the  animated  face 
and  graceful  bearing  of  a  pretty  girl,  with  a  back- 
ground of  the  tropical  Andes  towering  to  a  sky  forever 


322  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

blue,  this  child  of  the  forest  as  she  sat  on  the  mule, 
would  present  an  unconscious  living  model  for  the 
artist. 

Seated  like  a  circus  rider,  her  lithe  form  concealed 
under  the  gorgeous  coloring  of  the  poncho,  the  pensive 
but  happy  face  and  bright  eyes  looking  rather  defiantly 
through  the  mass  of  loose  hair  that,  like  little  Lord 
Fauntleroy 's,  hung  carelessly  over  her  left  eye,  under 
the  Panama  hat,  she  was  the  living  picture  of  a  beau- 
tiful Italian  boy  of  about  ten  years,  such  as  one  may 
see  in  art  galleries. 

Impressed  with  her  boyish  appearance  under  the  hat, 
her  form  and  dress  being  concealed  by  the  flowing  pon- 
cho, my  admiration,  and  the  thought  of  her  convenience, 
prompted  the  playful  suggestion  that  she  should  hence- 
forth travel  with  me  to  Lima  as  a  boy.  She  resented 
the  proposition  with  a  burst  of  indignation  that  sur- 
prised me,  and  before  I  could  recover  myself  sufficiently 
to  explain,  she  rode  off  disdainfully,  with  a  command 
to  the  cook  to  follow  her.  She  rode  with  an  easy  grace, 
indifferent  to  all  the  surroundings,  and  purposely  pre- 
vented my  getting  alongside  of  her  for  an  hour  or  two. 

If  in  any  way,  this  narrative  may  have  created  the 
impression  that  these  Indian  girls  are  tractable  or 
easily  influenced,  it  is  proper  to  correct  it.  They  have 
their  own  ideas  of  the  eternal  fitness  of  things,  and  of 
the  proprieties;  perhaps  some  of  their  peculiarities 
may  seem  absurd  to  us,  yet  they  continue  to  entertain 
their  own  notions  and  adhere  to  and  practice  their  con- 
victions. 

In  a  few  hours  we  reached  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
which  seemed  to  precipitately  cross  our  path  like  an 


A  ROCKY  CAMINO  323 

immense  wall  of  loosely  tumbled  colossal  rocks,  through 
the  crevices  of  which  the  tropical  pine  thorns  and 
cactus  plants  persistently  forced  themselves. 

The  mules  which  had  gone  ahead  were  awaiting  us 
here,  and  all  were  required  to  dismount  while  Andreas 
re-arranged  the  packs  and  examined  the  girths,  pre- 
paratory to  the  ascent. 

The  trail  or  camino  leading  over  the  rocky  surface 
could  not  be  clearly  outlined.  It  looked  as  if  we  were 
attempting  the  ascent  of  an  avalanche  of  immense 
boulders.  Andreas  told  me  seriously  that  they  were 
the  steps  to  purgatory,  and  reassuringly  observed,  with 
unconscious  humor,  that  we  should  ' '  get  there  all  right, 
if  we  could  only  stick  to  the  mules.'* 

The  boss  Indian  hurried  us  on,  as  we  must  get  over 
the  mountains  in  the  middle  of  the  day  and  down 
into  the  other  valley  before  the  evening  rains  could 
overtake  us  and  add  a  rush  of  water  to  the  permanent 
obstacles.  The  pack  mules  went  ahead,  single  file, 
the  Indians  on  foot  driving  or  poking  them  with  sharp 
sticks  when  it  was  necessary  for  them  to  make 
extra  exertion  in  order  to  surmount  very  difficult  ob- 
stacles, stopping  after  each  effort  to  recover  breath. 

Allowing  the  cook,  the  Napo  guide  and  Inez  to  pre- 
cede, I  brought  up  the  rear  with  Andreas  afoot,  that 
he  might  keep  his  eye  on  all  that  was  in  front.  The 
upward  path  seemed  to  zig-zag  in  an  aimless  winding 
as  if  seeking  to  avoid  boulders  rather  than  to  lead  to 
any  place  in  particular. 

It  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  the  mules  jump  or 
leap  abrupt  places  that  a  goat  could  scarcely  climb. 
Sometimes  these  were  on  the  ragged  edge  of  the  narrow 


3^4  THE  LAND  OP  TO-MOUROW 

path  of  despair  hewed  out  of  the  mountainsides,  the 
upper  part  of  which  our  legs  rubbed  against,  the  jut- 
ting, rocky  hills  towering  far  above  us;  on  the  other 
side  of  which  was  the  deep,  rocky  valley  from  whence 
we  had  been  laboriously  ascending. 

The  slightest  misstep  of  the  mule,  or  the  sliding  of 
a  loose  stone,  or  a  failure  to  gain  a  good  foothold  in  a 
spring,  must  cause  a  stumble  that  could  have  no  other 
result  than  to  precipitate  mule  and  rider  into  the 
awful  abyss. 

One  wants  to  be  nonchalant  when  suspended  in  a 
dangerous  position,  but  this  rocky  experience  on  a  mule 
was  discouraging,  and  when  approaching  some  espec- 
ially bad  looking  places,  I  ingloriously  dismounted, 
walking  with  Andreas  and  driving  my  mule  ahead. 
Inez,  from  her  perch  on  the  pack,  seemed  to  be  in  even 
greater  danger,  yet  she  bravely  kept  her  eyes  looking 
straight  forward,  remaining  silent. 

The  Indians  forcing  the  mules  made  peculiar  cries, 
sounding  to  me  at  first  like  the  cries  of  one  who  had 
gone  over  the  bank. 

*'Mulas !  Mulas  !*'  they  would  shriek,  as  they  prodded 
the  panting  beasts  like  steers  driven  to  slaughter. 

When  Inez  looked  around  during  a  rest  and  saw  me 
on  foot  she  laughed  scornfully,  and  feeling  ashamed 
of  my  position,  I  at  once  remounted,  preferring  to  face 
the  dangers  of  the  road  rather  than  her  ridicule. 

Naturally  the  rider  with  the  reins  in  his  hands  will 
attempt  to  guide  the  mule  and  pick  out  the  best  places, 
but  there  are  no  best  places,  and  the  paths  are  so  nar- 
row that  guiding  is  unnecessary.  When  the  mule 
comes  to  a  jump-up,  the  rider  instinctively  draws  the 


HOUGH  RIDING  325 

reins  as  if  to  assist  in  the  jump.  Inez,  noticing  this 
and  my  nervous  watching  of  the  rocky  path,  gave  me 
a  pointer  on  mule  rough  riding  over  the  mountains, 
that  was  useful  to  me  in  the  days  following.  In  pan- 
tomimic gestures — like  those  of  a  circus  girl  on  a 
padded  riding  horse — she  folded  her  hands,  and  turn- 
ing her  face  upwards,  closed  her  eyes  as  if  in  final 
prayer,  while  the  swearing  Indians  made  her  mule  jump 
over  a  bad  place. 

The  lesson  she  desired  to  teach  was  not  to  look  at 
the  road,  but  glance  upward  and  pray  for  safety.  To 
have  more  faith.  This  advice  or  example  was  fol- 
lowed literally,  and  thereafter  the  reins  were  dropped, 
but  I  instinctively  grasped  for  the  mule's  mane,  and 
pressing  my  knees  so  tightly  against  his  sides  that  he 
grunted,  he  took  the  jump,  while  with  eyes  closed,  I 
said  a  short  prayer  in  somewhat  of  a  hurry.  One  thus 
learns  to  place  faith  in  the  mule. 

After  much  tribulation,  we  reached  one  of  the  sum- 
mits where  we  rested  for  lunch  and  had  a  final  view  of 
*' Paradise  Lost."  This  might  appropriately  be  called 
''Looking  Backward"  from  the  top  of  the  Central 
Andes,  over  the  beautiful  Land  of  To-Morrow. 

The  point  affords  a  view  of  surpassing  grandeur 
and  pastoral  loveliness  such  as  may  not  in  its  pecu- 
liarly tropical  aspects  be  found  at  any  other  place  on 
this  continent. 

One  can  hardly  visit  every  place  which  is  noted  for 
its  picturesque  scenery,  yet  the  tourist  who  has  viewed 
the  grandest. on  exhibition  in  our  own  country,  and 
some  of  that  of  the  Alps,  and  who  has  also  been 
an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  the  noted  pictures  in  many 


326  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

galleries,  is  free  to  say  that  he  has  never  seen  or  heard 
of  anything  that  will  compare  with  the  glorious  scenery 
of  the  Equatorial  Andes. 

As  a  rule,  it  is  upon  such  an  extensive  scale  of  gran- 
deur, that  the  eye  of  the  traveller  cannot  encompass, 
nor  the  intellect  retain  the  impression  of  all  the  beau- 
tiful scenes  that  are  everywhere  spread  out  before 
him.  That  of  the  valley  of  Moyabamba  remains  in 
memory  as  the  loveliest  and  fairest. 

The  town  of  Moyabamba,  which  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  valley,  though  more  than  two  days  distant,  was 
as  distinctly  laid  out  before  us  in  the  clear  air  as  if  it 
were  but  a  short  ride  beyond  Riaja,  which  seemed  to 
be  at  the  very  base  of  the  mountains. 

Inez,  whose  world  was  here  before  her,  or  whose 
conception  of  the  world  beyond  was  probably  based 
upon  her  ideas  of  this  paradise,  looked  sadly  backward, 
but  not  realizing  that  she  was  doomed  to  a  life  of  dis- 
appointment in  the  outside  world  to  which  she  longed 
to  go  and  toward  which  she  was  journeying. 

She  was  assured  again  that  she  could  return  any 
time  she  might  desire  it.  It  was  difficult  in  my  poor 
Spanish  to  make  her  comprehend  the  civilized  idea, 
that  a  woman  could  have  her  own  way  about  such 
matters;  and  she  could  not  understand  why  anyone 
should  think  it  was  possible  for  her  to  change  her 
own  mind. 

Reluctantly  mounting,  we  sorrowfully  turned  our 
backs  to  the  east,  and  soon  began  the  descent  into  the 
valley  on  the  western  side.  Getting  tired  of  her 
cramped  seat  on  the  mules 's  back,  the  little  girl  at- 
tempted to  take  a  lesson  from  me  in  riding  side  saddle 


AN  ANDES  EPISODE  327 

style,  creating  considerable  amusement  and  some  con- 
sternation to  the  mule  and  Andreas.  When  the  mule 
made  a  lurch,  that  would  slightly  unbalance  Inez,  she 
would  scream  just  like  civilized  girls  do,  but  would 
coquettishly  and  pettishly  refuse  assistance. 

The  descent  led  into  a  small  valley  quite  shaded  by 
the  heavy  foliage.  A  profusion  of  ferns  of  rare  and 
fine  varieties  growing  along  the  sides  of  the  hill  as 
fringes  to  numerous  little  falls,  attracted  my  attention. 
Quite  a  number  were  plucked  and  arranged  as  a  back- 
ing or  setting  for  some  pretty^  wild  flowers.  This 
seemed  to  interest  not  only  the  senorita,  but  the  Indians 
to  whom  ferns  and  flowers  were  as  leaves  and  grass. 

Riding  alongside  of  the  little  girl,  with  mock  gravity 
intended  to  be  amusing,  I  doffed  my  hat,  and  with  a 
dignified  bow,  handed  her  the  bouquet.  Instead  of 
being  amused  she  took  is  so  seriously  and  earnestly  that 
my  surprise  afforded  more  entertainment  than  if  she 
had  accepted  the  flowers  in  a  humorous  spirit. 

The  Indians  too,  who  had  watched  the  performance, 
looked  upon  it  as  a  ceremony  of  some  significance,  the 
guide  saying  that  the  act  of  giving  her  the  flowers  had 
meant  that  I  also  offered  myself ;  and  that  in  accepting 
them  in  her  left  hand  she  had  placed  herself  under 
my  protection. 

In  the  descent  our  tactics  were  reversed;  instead  of 
frantically  grabbing  the  mule's  mane  or  reaching  for- 
ward as  if  to  crawl  over  his  head,  as  he  sometimes 
almost  stood  on  his  hind  feet,  we  were  now  obliged  to 
grasp  the  tail,  and  laying  back,  reach  for  the  ears  with 
our  feet  for  stirrups.  It  was  more  dangerous  going 
down  than  coming  up. 


328 


THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 


Indian  Huts  on  the  Andes 


LOOKING  BACKWARD  329 

After  considerable  parleying,  Inez  was  prevailed 
upon  to  take  a  blanket  saddle  seat  behind  me  on  my 
mule.  She  would  not  get  up,  however,  until  all  the 
others  were  out  of  sight.  The  Indian  girls  have  a 
sensitive  dread  of  ridicule,  and  to  attempt  familiarity 
or  a  caress  in  the  presence  of  others,  usually  results 
in  repellant  indignation.  While  they  are  not  at  all 
modest  in  some  matters,  where  it  should  be  becoming 
they  certainly  resent  anything  resembling  indecency  in 
their  public  intercourse. 

While  screening  herself  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mule,  she  had  a  way  before  mounting  of  deftly  bring- 
ing forward  the  back  breadths  of  her  skirt,  which  she 
tucked  up  in  front  under  her  sash  or  belt,  giving  her 
a  placidly  picturesque  and  impromptu  bloomer  ap- 
pearance that  was  stunning.  When  astride  the  mule 
her  shapely,  lightly  bronzed  limbs  were  well  outlined 
against  the  red  blanket,  making  another  model  for  the 
artist. 

As  she  thus  sat  astride  of  my  mule,  we  descended 
into  the  valley. 

Because  of  our  caution  we  were  getting  far  into  the 
rear  of  the  caravan  and  almost  lost  ourselves.  The 
roughness  of  the  road  increased  its  terrors,  and  at 
every  bad  place  she  would  scream  just  like  other 
girls,  and  suddenly  clasp  her  arms  so  tightly  about  me 
that  I  was  unable  to  steer  the  mule  safely.  Any 
attempt  on  my  part  at  looking  backward  to  see  that 
she  was  all  right  was  resented  with  a  not  too  gentle 
slap,  and  if  the  other  cheek  was  turned  it  was  treated 
in  the  same  manner. 

Our  evening  camp  was  in  a  triangular  little  glen,  so 


330  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

completely  hemmed  in  by  high  mountains  that  only 
the  rays  of  the  midday  sun  penetrated  its  solitude. 
Before  we  got  to  the  tambo  Inez  slid  off  of  the  mule 
and  ran  ahead  to  meet  the  cook. 

It  being  oppressively  warm  and  close,  the  Indians 
had  already  unsaddled  the  packs  and  turned  the  mules 
loose  to  roll  and  feed  on  the  grass,  while  the^  bathed 
in  the  waters  of  the  stream. 

The  guide  was  like  a  mule  in  more  ways  than  one. 
He  was  treacherous,  stupid  and  stubborn,  and  when  he 
wished  to  rest  it  was  his  custom  to  roll  on  the  grass 
and  yell  quite  as  a  mule  bellowed. 

As  previously  stated,  there  was  in  the  carga  with  us 
quite  a  lot  of  silver  coin,  in  charge  of  Andreas  to  be 
taken  to  the  next  relay  en  route  for  Lima.  It  was  in 
the  usual  rolls  of  ten  silver  dollars  sewed  up  tightly  in 
skins,  making  solid  packages;  but  no  more  attention 
was  given  to  this  coin  than  to  our  bags  of  provisions 
or  clothing.  Sometimes  the  mule  carrying  the  silver 
coin  would  be  ahead,  almost  out  of  sight  of  the  Indians, 
and  on  reaching  a  tambo  the  load  was  thrown  down 
indifferently  with  the  saddles. 

A  highway  robbery  has  never  been  known  on  that 
lonely  trail,  where  thousands  upon  thousands  of  dol- 
lars in  coin  and  valuable  goods  are  sent  through  dense 
solitudes  in  the  care  of  Indians  only,  without  any 
thought  of  a  convoy  of  guards.  Nothing  was  ever 
stolen  from  me,  and  no  effort  was  deemed  necessary  for 
protection;  which  facts  are  stated  by  way  of  compar- 
ison with  our  advanced  Christian  civilization,  where 
train  robberies  occur  almost  in  the  suburbs  of  our 
cities. 


HONEST  INDIANS  331 

Until  the  senorita  joined  us  in  our  travels,  the  Napo 
guide  had  appropriated  to  himself  the  honor  or  dis- 
tinction, as  it  is  conceded  in  that  land,  of  eating  with 
the  padrone. 

There  had  been  tinned  porcelain  ware  and  silver 
knives  and  forks  provided  for  two  only.  When  the 
useful  cook  was  prepared  to  serve  coffee  and  a  stew 
of  pounded  beef  and  onions  on  the  top  of  my  box  or 
trunk,  Inez  was  invited  to  dine  with  ''Don  Jose,"  thus 
giving  her  the  seat  of  honor  and  the  dishes  the  Napo 
had  been  accustomed  to  use.  He,  therefore,  sullenly 
took  a  place  at  the  foot  of  the  table,  as  not  to  have 
made  his  appearance  would  have  degraded  him  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Indians.  This  bit  of  social  etiquette  had  the 
effect  of  pleasing  the  cook,  who  laughingly  placed  the 
bouquet  of  ferns  and  wild  flowers  on  our  impromptu 
table.  The  senorita,  though  quite  happy  over  the  inci- 
dent, was  too  much  of  an  Indian  to  express  or  show  her 
pleasure,  but  seemed  to  take  it  as  a  matter  of  course. 

All  being  tired,  we  slept  so  comfortably  that  the 
cook  was  late  in  serving  us  with  early  coffee. 

In  saddling  and  packing  up,  there  was  an  animated 
conversation  between  the  guide  and  the  Indians,  the 
little  girl  being  apparently  an  indifferent  listener.  The 
Napo  was  in  a  rage,  and  protested  that  his  saddle  was 
being  placed  on  Inez'  mule.  No  such  orders  had  been 
given,  but  Andreas  mildly  suggested, ' '  But  the  senorita 
wants  it  so,"  intimating  that  as  the  padrone  paid  for 
the  mules,  it  should  be  as  he  wished. 

As  a  matter  of  right,  the  Napo  was  probably  entitled 
to  the  saddle,  but  as  he  had  lied  so  outrageously  and 
deliberately  added  to  my  expense  and  embarrassment, 


332  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

and  was  otherwise  so  treacherous,  that  he  was  not 
entitled  to  any  favors.  With  a  desire  to  be  just,  how- 
over,  it  was  suggested  that  he  gallantly  yield  this 
preference  to  the  young  girl. 

He  had  become  insanely  jealous  of  her,  and  incau- 
tiously began  to  abuse  her  to  me  with  a  view  of  dis- 
crediting her.  The  little  girl  stood  some  distance  off, 
not  understanding  one  word  of  the  heated  discussion, 
but  watching  for  the  result.  On  glancing  toward  her, 
her  eyes  met  mine  with  a  reassuring  look  of  confidence 
that  seemed  to  say,  ''It  makes  no  difference  how  much 
they  talk,  I'll  get  the  mule  and  saddle."  And  she  did. 
She  had  fastened  my  bouquet  to  her  frowsy  hair. 

The  Napo  had  the  choice  of  returning  from  this 
point  or  of  riding  bareback  the  balance  of  the  journey. 
He  accepted  the  latter  situation  with  a  mental  reserva- 
tion, no  doubt,  to  get  even. 

The  next  day  was  Domingo,  or  Sunday,  which  is  a 
holiday  in  the  towns  of  that  land.  This,  however,  does 
not  count  on  the  trail  where  it  is  necessary  to  rush 
through  to  places  of  safety  and  comfort. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

EVERAL  months  with  Indians  and  mules 
,yC'  on  the  Andes  is  liable  to  make  the  crit- 
cal  Anglo-Saxon  part  with  any  sym- 
pathy he  may  have  entertained  for  the 
aborigines  of  Equatorial  America,  and 
to  increase  his  respect  for  and  confi- 
dence in  the  much  abused  mule.  Appar- 
ently, there  is  not  very  much  differ- 
ence ;  in  one  respect  at  least  the  mule  has  the  advantage 
over  the  biped,  he  never  gets  drunk.  The  little  Spanish 
mule  with  the  big  head  and  solemn  looking  countenance 
and  very  large  ears  for  such  small  ''pitchers,"  is  in 
some  respects  more  intelligent  and  certainly  a  more 
humorous  animal  than  the  stolid,  common,  full-blooded 
Indian.  Both  of  them  carry  the  same  serious  expres- 
sion that  means  deviltry  instead  of  innocence. 

The  pack  mules  are  turned  loose  to  be  driven  along 
the  narrow  camino  by  the  Indians  on  foot,  ahead  of  the 
riding  mules.  There  is  usually  a  leader  or  bell  mule 
who  knows  the  road  and  appreciates  the  importance 
of  his  position  and  sometimes  takes  liberties  and  gets 
out  of  sight  in  advance,  that  he  may  have  the  choice 
picking  at  some  tender  grass  while  he  leisurely  awaits 
the  approach  of  the  others  with  whom  he  refuses  to 
associate,  and  continues  to  ''move  on."  There  are  in 
the  packs,  perhaps,  other  ambitious  mules  that  desire 
to  get  ahead  of  the  leader,  and  this  is  where  the  fun 
comes  in,     They  will  go  sneaking  along  coyly,  stopping 

333 


334  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

here  and  there  to  nibble  innocently,  when  suddenly,  as 
if  startled  by  a  gunshot,  break  ahead  on  a  run  in  a 
desperate  attempt  to  pass  the  mules  ahead  of  them. 
But  the  boss  mule  had  also  one  eye  on  his  followers, 
and  though  loaded  down  with  a  pack,  he  would  spring 
into  the  narrow  trail  and  gallop  ahead  until  he  would 
reach  a  point  where  it  would  be  impossible  to  pass  him. 

Sometimes  their  sportiveness  became  dangerous  to 
those  who  were  riding  in  the  caravan  with  pack  mules. 
It  is  always  best  to  give  the  packs  the  advance ;  if  too 
closely  in  the  rear  they  are  liable  to  claim  their  position 
and  go  ahead;  the  mule  you  ride  will  certainly  object 
to  this,,  and  a  race  ensues  between  a  mule  carrying  a 
huge  pack  and  the  one  you  ride,  whether  you  like  it  or 
not.  If  the  pack  is  astride  of  your  competitor,  instead 
of  on  top,  it  possibly  occupies  the  entire  width  of  the 
narrow  camino,  which  fact  the  mule  does  not  seem  to 
comprehend.  If  in  the  rush,  the  bulky  sides  come 
in  contact  with  your  legs,  of  course  the  tender  part 
yields  to  the  hard  pack,  to  your  distress.  The  rider 
soon  learns  to  avoid  these  dangerous  passes,  or  the 
meeting  with  the  loaded  mules,  by  lifting  the  obtruding 
leg  to  avoid  the  crushing  contact. 

In  many  places  the  camino  is  the  narrow  crevice 
made  by  ages  of  running  waters  as  deep  and  precipitous 
as  are  railroad  cuts  in  the  yellow  clay  soil;  there 
are  deep  gullies  or  Y  shaped  cuts  so  narrow  at  the 
bottom  that  scarcely  a  mule  can  find  a  level  footing, 
the  sides  of  which  are  so  precipitous  that  it  would  be 
impossible  for  a  mule  to  turn  around  or  climb  out. 
When  entering  these  ijarrow  places  the  custom  is  to 


THE  RIGHT  OF  WAY  335 

send  an  Indian  ahead  who  shouts  signals  to  prevent 
others  from  entering  until  the  passage  is  clear. 

At  one  such  place  we  encountered  a  caravan  coming 
from  an  opposite  direction  who  were  driving  wild  steers 
or  cattle,  presenting  the  horns  of  several  dilemmas  that 
threatened  serious  consequences.  Indians  are  as  con- 
trary as  the  white  man.  Neither  advancing  party  was 
disposed  to  yield  to  the  other.  After  much  pow-wow, 
the  difficulty  was  overcome  by  Andreas  and  the  Napo 
stampeding  the  steers  who  managed  to  turn  themselves 
and  charge  back  on  their  drivers  and  cleared  the  way 
for  us. 

The  severely  practical  experiences  in  crossing  the 
Andes  three  miles  above  the  earth  on  a  mule,  might 
afford  the  scientist  as  interesting  opportunity  for  ob- 
servation as  could  be  obtained  from  a  balloon  at  a  sim- 
ilar elevation  from  which  the  aeriel  scientist  ordin- 
arily limits  his  higher  studies  or  observations.  He 
might  go  to  Amazonia  and  avail  himself  of  the  reliable 
services  of  the  mule,  who  will  carry  him  as  high  as  his 
ambitious  aspirations  desire.  AVhen  he  gets  tired  and 
exhausted  he  can  stop  the  mule,  if  he  can't  the  balloon. 

The  meteorological  balloonist  sometimes  overlooks 
the  important  fact  that  beyond  a  certain  altitude  human 
or  animal  life  does  not  exist,  while  at  great  elevations 
delicate  instruments  even  though  protected  like  the 
aeronaut  by  such  an  armor  as  sea  divers  use,  must  be- 
come unreliable. 

The  sudden  ascent  in  a  balloon  is  also  more  apt  to 
interfere  with  calculations  and  to  produce  ill  effects 
that  are  obviated  by  the  gradual  ascent  on  mules. 
The  dizzy,  sea-sickening  sensation  at  great  altitudes, 


336  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

known  as  soroche,  is  scarcely  felt,  by  the  almost  imper- 
ceptible ascent  during  many  days  and  weeks,  one  be- 
comes accustomed  to  it  so  gradually  that  no  incon- 
venience is  experienced  except  the  shortness  of  breath 
or  difficulty  in  breathing.  As  a  preventive  of  nausea 
the  Indians  crush  a  bit  of  garlic  or  strong  onion  which 
they  inhale.  The  several  summits  of  the  trail  reach 
between  12,000  and  18,000  feet,  but  there  are  numerous 
peaks  much  higher. 

When  on  the  higher  parts  of  the  road  any  over-exer- 
tion will  result  in  a  total  collapse  with  profuse  bleed- 
ing from  the  nose  and  ears,  intense  pain  in  the  spinal 
column  of  neck,  and  also  nausea.  Fortunately,  one 
does  not  have  to  delay  on  these  summits,  the  schedule 
for  the  day's  travel  being  arranged  to  pass  them  near 
mid-day,  as  it  would  be  dangerous  to  remain  over  night 
without  unusual  protection  from  the  cold  in  that  rare- 
fied atmosphere.  At  all  of  these  higher  points,  the 
immediate  surrounding  are  barren,  except  perhaps,  a 
few  stunted  trees  of  pine  and  a  tough  bunch  of  grass 
with  an  odd  flower  that  resembled  the  white  flower 
used  for  burial  wreaths. 

We  always  found  a  cross  on  the  highest  points,  that 
marked  the  divide,  or  cumbre,  like  a  guide-post,  and 
invariably  a  grand  view  beyond. 

One  sometimes  feels  that  the  intelligent  mule  appre- 
ciated the  views  equally  with  the  rider.  When  we 
would  suddenly  come  upon  a  summit  or  a  turn  that 
afforded  an  extensive  outlook  beyond,  the  mule  would 
instinctively  stop,  look  ahead  wisely  and  give  a  sigh 
of  admiration  that  would  almost  burst  the  saddle  girth. 
If  spoken  to  he  would  prick  up  his  big  ears,  looking 


^^.,....-r 


Scaling  the  Andes  on  Mui.es 


Facing  Page  336 


EOCKY  ROADS  337 

around,  as  if  to  say,  **I  beg  pardon/'  and  then  trot 
off  down  the  mountain. 

Rough  riding  down  the  Andes  is  scarcely  less  exhil- 
arating then  the  exercise  necessary  to  cling  to  his  mane 
coming  up.  If  the  road  is  rocky,  as  is  apt  to  be  the 
case,  on  coming  to  a  rather  deep  step,  he  will  gather 
his  four  feet  togther  for  a  spring  and  suddenly  make 
the  jump,  landing  on  his  two  front  feet  on  another 
rock  some  distance  below.  The  hind  feet  come  along 
after  awhile,  but  one  feels  that  they  are  in  the  air  for 
a  long  time.  If  on  the  other  hand  it  is  rainy  and  the 
road  is  a  slippery  clay,  he  will  slide  down  a  declivity 
as  gracefully  as  a  left-footed  girl  on  an  ice  slide.  As 
previously  intimated  it  is  only  necessary  to  place  your 
confidence  in  the  mules — they  will  get  there  all  right 
if  left  to  their  own  way. 

Before  we  reached  the  end  of  our  eight  days'  relay, 
in  crossing  the  Central  Andes,  we  encountered  some 
of  the  severe  rains  that  come  up  in  the  evenings  of  the 
October  days.  This  downpour  quickly  filled  the  water- 
ways and  gulleys,  the  beds  of  which  formed  the  trails 
or  caminos  up  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  The  running 
water  serves  a  double  purpose  of  keeping  down  the 
dense  growth  and  also  of  bringing  to  the  surface  a 
crop  of  loose  stones  that  mark  out  the  road  on  these 
rivulets. 

The  traveller  who  happens  to  be  on  the  road  from 
October  to  May,  or  the  rainy  season,  takes  the  double 
risk  of  being  both  washed  out  and  delayed,  and  the 
exposure  to  the  cold  rain  storms.  Sometimes  we  could 
not  see  the  bottom  of  the  trail,  the  mules  wading  knee- 
deep  in  running  water.    But  Don  Quixote-like,  we  kept 


338  THE  LAND  OF  TOMORROW 

on  blindly,  sometimes  charging  up  a  rushing  torrent 
or  going  down  stream  astride  of  a  cascade. 

We  all  suffered  considerably  from  the  cold  rains 
before  reaching  Chachapoyas;  the  little  Indian  girl 
was  frequently  drenched,  but  with  all  the  discomfort 
continued  the  most  cheerful  of  the  party.  On  arriv- 
ing at  a  tambo  one  evening  she  had  to  be  lifted  from 
the  mule.  She  was  shivering,  and  her  cold  wet  cloth- 
ing w^as  clinging  to  her  frail  form.  Apprehending  dis- 
astrous results,  the  baggage  was  unpacked,  and  she 
was  given  a  good  dose  of  brandy,  while  the  old  cook 
bathed  her,  putting  over  her  head  a  fancy  overshirt. 
She  soon  revived  and  was  quite  proud  of  her  appear- 
ance in  a  blue  negligee  shirt  with  a  broad  collar  and  red 
lacings  with  tassels  in  front.  A  rubber  blanket  or 
poncho  is  not  as  desirable  for  travelling,  or  to  wear  in 
a  rain,  as  an  ordinary  heavy  woolen  blanket.  One 
becomes  saturated  as  soon  as  the  other,  while  the  woolen 
is  not  so  cold.  The  rubber  is  more  useful  as  a  covering 
for  a  tent  or  stretched  over  the  bed  at  night. 

On  one  of  the  afternoons  we  rode  along  one  bank  of 
a  rapidly  running  river  through  a  valley  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  which  rose  almost  precipitately  out  of  the 
water  a  towering  precipice  on  the  rocky  sides  and 
crevices  of  which  numerous  parasitic  plants  or  orchids 
had  attached  themselves,  the  pendant  vines  creating 
a  beautiful  representation  of  a  hanging  garden.  On 
the  banks  were  overhanging  trees  from  which  long 
ringlets  of  moss  were  drooping  over  the  water,  resem- 
bling miles  of  weeping  willows.  The  silence  of  the 
beautiful  valley  was  made  more  impressive  by  the 
deep  rumbling  echoes  of  the  rushing  waters,  intensified 


THE  LAND  OF  ORCHIDS  339 

by  an  occasional  shrill  note  from  some  of  the  large 
birds  that  sang  as  they  flew  up  and  down  in  search  of 
fish.  The  trail  was  fairly  bordered  with  shrubbery 
bearing  variously  colored  blooms,  struggling  to  show 
their  beauty  through  masses  of  tall  green  foliage  of  the 
tree  tops  which  seem  to  blossom  in  these  secluded  val- 
leys, when  protected  from  the  cold  winds  by  the  sur- 
rounding mountain  tops. 

In  this  Land  of  Eternal  Summer  even  the  decaying 
trunks  of  old  trees  put  forth  their  efforts  to  add  to  the 
beauty  of  the  scene  by  means  of  the  parasite  and 
orchids  which  in  the  greatest  abundance  attached  them- 
selves to  dead  wood,  numbers  of  the  most  beautiful 
varieties  growing  to  the  same  limbs  from  which  the 
moss  was  so  gracefully  pendant. 

Amazonia  is  the  land  of  orchids. 

** Those  radiant  expressions  of  nature's  artistic  soul." 

In  the  forests  of  the  upper  affluents  of  the  Amazon 
river  are  found  the  rarest  of  the  species  peculiar  to 
that  altitude. 

In  this  region  the  collection  or  orchids  has  not 
become  a  matter  of  commerce,  because  of  its  remote- 
ness, though  the  rarest  and  finest  varieties  may  be 
found  in  these  valleys.  The  species  best  adapted  for 
transplanting  to  our  climate  are  gathered  in  the  higher 
altitudes. 

In  the  journey  from  the  Atlantic  ocean,  during  the 
months,  weeks  and  days,  we  have  probably  never  been 
out  of  sight  or  reach  of  orchids.  In  the  vicinity  of 
Moyabamba  they  are  to  be  found  in  the  greatest  abun- 
dance and  variety. 

The  orchid  is  well  known  as  an  air  plant  or  parasite. 


340  THE  LAND  OP  TO-MORROW 

which  in  some  unknown  way  attaches  itself  to  the  dead 
trunks  of  trees,  far  from  the  ground,  there  being  no 
earth  roots,  its  origin  being  somewhat  of  a  mystery  as 
is  also  its  existence.  It  is  not  propogated  there  by 
seed,  and  why  or  where  it  springs  from  affords  room  for 
as  much  difference  of  opinion  as  there  are  endless 
varieties  of  the  beautiful  plant. 

The  orchid  is  the  flower  of  the  Land  of  To-Morrow. 
It  became  a  habit  to  compliment  Inez  in  the  Spanish  as 
"La  flor  de  los  Andes"  (the  flower  of  the  Andes),  and 
in  the  sense  of  looking  backward,  it  seems  to  have  been 
a  rude  plucking  of  a  beautiful,  rare  orchid  from  its 
native  home,  to  carry  away  to  transplant  and  hope  to' 
bloom  as  an  exotic  in  a  cold,  inhospitable  clime. 

As  we  go  westward  and  upward,  always  upward, 
weary  from  the  tedious  ascent  of  mountains  day  after 
day,  reaching  each  summit  almost  exhausted,  and  look- 
ing beyond  to  other  mountains  resembling  grey  clouds 
in  the  western  horizon,  a  rude  cross  was  sure  to  be 
found  on  the  most  prominent  points,  where  it  was  cus- 
tomary halt  for  a  rest.  In  some  sequestered  nooks 
in  the  valleys  we  also  passed  numerous  shrines  located 
perhaps  in  natural  grottoes,  in  apparently  inaccessible 
places  on  the  sides  of  precipitous  cliffs,  overhanging 
wildly  rushing  waters,  where  the  Jesuit  missionaries 
had  in  some  way  managed  to  make  very  fair  represen- 
tations of  the  altars  of  the  Catholic  church,  the  inac- 
cessibility creating  an  impression  of  being  miraculously 
placed. 

The  traveller,  reared  a  Protestant,  who  has  looked 
upon  the  altars  of  St.  Peter's  in  Rome  and  the  Madaline 
and  Notre  Dame  of  Paris,  and  old  churches  of  Latin 


SHRINES  IN  THE  VALLEYS  341 

America,  has  also  observed  that  the  bamboo  and  thatch 
roof  Jesuitical  Mission  Church  in  the  valleys  of  Equa- 
torial America,  with  the  adobe  of  the  Andes  and  the 
grottoes  of  the  Indian,  each  represent  in  appearance  the 
same  altar  before  which  men  and  women  of  all  lands 
and  races  and  tongues  become  equal. 

Travellers  say  they  never  get  anywhere  that  they 
may  not  see  the  emblem  of  the  cross;  even  on  top  of 
the  lonely  Andes  (the  rustic  crosses  become  a  sign,  like 
the  guide  posts,  that  point  the  weary  traveller  to  the 
right  road,  or  if,  in  the  darkness  of  a  tropical  night, 
the  sailor  on  tropical  seas  is  awakened  from  a  troubled 
dream  of  distress  and  discouragement,  he  can  look  up 
into  the  sky  and  there  always  find  the  beautiful  con- 
stellation of  the  Southern  Cross,  reclining  to  the 
horizon. 

As  we  approached  these  numerous  rude  crosses  on  the 
trails  on  top  of  the  Andes,  the  Indians  always  uncov- 
ered, if  they  wore  hats ;  if  not,  they  knelt  and  crossed 
themselves,  but  never  speaking.  They  call  these  high- 
est points  ''calla-calla^'  meaning  the  place  to  be  silent 
or  to  listen  to  the  whisper  of  the  winds,  which  is  the 
voice  of  God.  As  there  were  nearly  always  fresh 
flowers  deposited  at  the  base  of  these  rude  crosses,  I 
thought  they  marked  the  burial  place  of  those  who  had 
fallen  by  the  wayside  in  their  journey.  On  mention- 
ing this  to  the  Indians,  they  replied  significantly,  *'The 
body  of  Christ  is  there." 

On  a  beautiful  Sunday  morning,  Inez  and  Don  Jose 
rode  together,  but  on  different  mules.  As  we  ap- 
proached one  of  these  rude  crosses  by  the  wayside,  she 
reverently  lifted  her  Panama,  crossed  herself,  and  with- 


342  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

out  indicating  her  wish,  she  slipped  down  from  her 
seat  on  the  mule,  advanced  to  the  shrine,  and  placed  the 
bouquet  of  ferns,  previously  given  her,  at  the  base  of 
the  rustic  cross.  Kneeling,  while  her  lips  moved  in 
silent  prayer,  the  devotional  attitude  of  the  little 
"heathen"  before  the  cross,  forming  a  beautiful  study 
for  a  picture.  On  rising,  without 'deigning  to  utter  a 
word,  she  looked  searchingly  into  the  pale  face  of  her 
companion,  who  had  also  dismounted  to  assist  her  to 
remount.  With  a  feeling  of  mortification,  at  not  know- 
ing exactly  what  to  do,  but  as  had  been  the  custom,  in 
respect  to  the  opinion  and  belief  of  those  with  whom 
we  had  been  associated,  he  took  off  his  hat,  and  silently 
stood  uncovered  before  the  cross  on  which  had  been  de- 
posited the  withering  bouquet.  This  little  remem- 
brance, prompted  by  sincerity,  was  noticed  by  the  other 
Indians,  who  no  doubt  believed  the  ''padrone"  as  they 
called  the  pale-faced  traveller  from  a  far-off  land  had 
learned  this  same  old  story  of  the  cross,  and  believed 
as  they  did,  the  simple  act  serving  to  establish  a  bond  of 
recognition  between  the  civilizations  from  the  different 
ends  of  the  earth,  which  was  here  met  at  its  highest 
point  in  the  Equator,  or  centre  of  the  earth. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  orchids  in  coloring  and 
form  that  I  had  ever  seen  in  the  Land  of  Orchids,  which 
grow  so  extensively  as  parasites,  and  the  mystery  of 
whose  existence  as  well  as  of  life,  is  so  typical  of  the 
birth  of  Christ,  being  nourished  alone  by  the  pure  air 
of  heaven,  I  found  attached  lovingly  to  a  rude  cross  on 
a  summit  of  the  Andes. 

In  relating  this  incident  of  the  orchid  clinging  to  the 
cross  on  the  Andes,  the  following  lines  were  written  by 


THE  CROSS  ON  THE  ANDES  343 

Bertha  Gerneaux  Woods,  a  young  High  school  girl  of 
Washington,  and  published  at  the  time,  being  translated 
into  the  pure  Castilian  spoken  and  written  at  Lima. 


344  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 


THE  CROSS  ON  THE  ANDES. 

Not  with  folds  of  dusky  crepe, 
Do  the  dusky  fingers  drape 

This  remembrance  of  His  death. 
But  the  airy  orchids  cling 
To  the  wood  where  earthly  thing 

Cannot  soil  them  with  its  breath. 

Did  God's  fingers  place  them  there? 
Are  they  spirits  of  the  air 

Staying  for  a  little  while. 
Clinging  to  His  cross  lest  they. 
Left  so  near  the  earth-scenes,  may 

Lose  remembrance  of  His  smile? 

Now  and  then  from  other  lands 
Men  with  sunburned  face  and  hands 

Turn  into  this  mountain-spot. 
Thinking  in  the  silence  deep. 
What  a  pleasant  place  to  sleep. 

Though  from  dreams  they  waken  not. 

Heavy-hearted  with  life's  loss, 
To  the  orchid-covered  cross 

Comes  a  pilgrim  wan  with  care; 
Pausing  long  enough  to  turn 
On  the  symbol  eyes  that  yearn 

For  the  God-love  shadowed  there. 

Then  his  own  heart  breathes  a  prayer, 
As  with  reverential  air 

Stands  he  with  uncovered  head. 
And  his  lips  move,  for  the  ear 
Of  the  Crucified  can  hear 

Faintest  words  that  e'er  were  said. 

Eyes  in  dusky  faces  note 
Every  movement  of  the  throat; 

"See,  the  Padrone  prays" — they  say. 
And  their  hearts  reach  after  him 
In  the  daylight  turning  dim. 

As  he  follows  on  his  way. 

On  the  breast  their  hands  are  laid. 
And  a  simple  gesture  made — 

Of  the  sacred  cross  a  sign. 
Then,  with  wistful,  upturned  eyes 
Looking  to  the  southern  skies, 

They  can  see  the  star-cros^  shine. 


THE  ORCHID  ON  THE  CROSS  345 


The  Cross  on  the  Andes 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

FTER  a  never-to-be-forgotten  expe- 
rience of  eight  days  and  nights  in 
crossing  the  Central  Andes,  we 
reached  Chachapoyas,  the  half-way 
relay  between  the  Upper  Amazon  and 
the  Pacific.  Chachapoyas  is  the  cap- 
ital of  the  Department  of  Alto  or 
Upper  Amazonas,  as  Moyabamba  is 
of  Bajo  or  Lower  Amazonas.  They  have  about  the 
same  population,  being  the  headquarters  of  the 
Prefecto  of  Departments  and  the  sub-Prefecto,  with 
the  usual  quota  of  military  and  church  dignitaries. 

In  location  Chachapoyas  is  the  antipodes  of  Moya- 
bamba, being  situated  apparently  at  the  top  of  the 
mountain  side,  while  Moyabamba  rests  in  a  valley  sur- 
rounded by  mountains. 

The  altitude  of  Chachapoyas  is  estimated  to  .be  7,500 
feet  above  the  sea,  but  a  person  accustomed  to  the 
warm  valleys  of  the  Equator  is  apt  to  register  it  con- 
siderably higher,  especially  if  he  arrives  in  a  cold, 
drenching  rain  storm,  as  we  did. 

When  we  reached  the  town,  we  were  cold  and  drip- 
ping wet,  but  with  an  indifference  to  appearances  born 
of  our  really  distressed  condition,  we  paraded  single 
file  down  the  long,  narrow  street  to  the  plaza  or  quar- 
tel,  in  which  the  principal  house,  that  of  the  Prefect,  is 
located. 
We  were  halted  in  the  archway  of  the  large  courtyard 
346 


ARRIVAL  AT  CHACHAPOYAS  347 

by  an  armed  soldier.  After  sending  our  respects  to  the 
Prefect,  the  ridiculous-looking  cavalcade  of  amusingly 
forlorn  objects  dismounted  in  the  courtyard  and  were 
soon  after  introduced  to  the  Prefect. 

We  presented  a  sorry  spectacle  as  we  stood  hats  in 
hand,  covered  with  dripping  ponchos,  shivering  with 
cold,  and  with  water  streaming  from  our  hair  and 
faces,  but  we  were  warmly  welcomed  by  the  old  Pre- 
fect, his  secretary  and  the  sub-Prefect,  who  somehow 
had  been  advised  of  our  intended  passing,  and  had  con- 
siderately made  preparation  for  our  arrival. 

In  these  countries  the  traveller  will  find  that  his  ap- 
proach has  been  heralded  days  in  advance,  without 
any  desire  on  his  part,  and  even  though  he  travels 
with  Indians,  those  of  the  tribes  ahead  will  know  of 
his  coming. 

I  eagerly  explained  that  the  little  Indian  girl  was 
the  protege  of  my  cook,  en  route  to  Lima  with  her 
grandmother  and  brother,  but  this  only  excited  an 
assuring  smile,  which  expressed  indifference  to  cooks 
and  Indian  girls,  but  showed  a  great  desire  to  be  of 
service  to  me  in  any  way  whatever. 

Being  conducted  to  a  warm  room,  I  was  at  once 
relieved  of  my  wet  habiliments,  and  making  a  hasty, 
but  careful  toilet,  I  re-appeared  in  a  full  black  suit,  with 
a  white  shirt,  the  quick  change  rather  astonishing  the 
waiting  officials. 

The  cook,  Inez  and  the  guide  had  been  provided  with 
quarters  in  a  gallery  room  of  the  courtyard. 

After  partaking  of  a  good  dinner  of  roast  mutton 
and  vegetables,  I  excused  myself,  desiring  to  obtain 
rest,  expecting  to  occupy  my  old  camp  bed  and  blankets 


348  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

in  the  gallery  room  with  the  others  of  my  party;  but 
the  old  Prefect  objected,  and  so  courteously  urged  his 
invitation  to  take  other  and  more  comfortable  quar- 
ters, that  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to  accept. 

Going  first  to  the  gallery  room,  I  found  that  Inez  and 
the  cook  had  retired  under  the  same  blanket  on  the 
floor,  the  Napo  guide  having  taken  possession  of  my 
comfortable  cot.  He  was  immediately  turned  out, 
much  to  his  disgust,  and  the  shivering  little  girl  was 
tucked  into  my  oed  and  wrapped  up  in  my  warm 
blankets 

She  was  much  impressed  by  the  marked  attention 
that  had  been  shown  to  ''Don  Jose"  by  those  great 
officials,  and  accepted  with  a  feeling  of  humble  grati- 
tude, the  little  courtesies  which  she  had  sometimes 
laughingly  rejected  while  on  the  trail. 

The  following  day  the  old  Prefect  personally  con- 
ducted us  to  spacious  quarters  where  we  were  accom- 
modated with  housekeeping  facilities,  in  the  same  style 
that  had  been  provided  for  our  comfort  and  conven- 
ience at  Moyabamba. 

The  country  about  Chachapoyas  is  as  different  from 
]\Ioyabamba  in  climate  and  productions  as  our  North- 
west is  from  the  Southern  States  of  Georgia  and 
Florida. 

The  only  place  in  Amazonia  in  which  wheat  is  grown 
is  on  the  lower  foothills  adjacent  to  Chachapoyas. 
The  protected  valleys  would  furnish  grazing  lands  suf- 
ficient to  supply  all  of  Amazonia  with  beef  and  mutton 
the  year  around. 

From  this  point  there  is  another  trail,  known  as  the 
Cahapanas  (pronounced  Cow-a-panas)  leading  directly 


INDIAN  HEAD  TROPHIES  349 

to  the  head  waters  of  the  Maranon,  just  below  the 
famous  Pongo  Mansieriche,  which  is  a  much  shorter,  but 
not  so  convenient  and  safe  a  route  to  navigation  as 
that  by  which  we  had  come  via  Moyabamba  to  the 
Huallagua  or  Yarrimaguas. 

The  Cahapanas  route  offers  the  additional  induce- 
ment of  the  gold  and  silver  mines  that  exist  near  the 
Pongo  Mansieriche  on  the  Santiago,  which  empties 
into  the  Maranon  just  below  the  Pongo  Mansieriche; 
but  these  veritable  gold  washings,  the  existence  of 
which  is  unquestioned,  are  located  in  a  country  occu- 
pied by  a  tribe  of  Indians  which  are  known  throughout 
the  entire  region  for  their  inveterate  hostility,  and 
this  fact  has  prevented  the  development  of  the  Pongo 
and  Santiago  gold  regions. 

It  is  a  well  authenticated  fact  that  though  a  number 
of  expeditions  have  penetrated  the  Santiago  country, 
all  have  ended  disastrously  in  the  murder  or  myster- 
ious disappearance  of  some  of  the  parties. 

The  experience  of  those  who  have  gone  before 
(always  in  too  small  companies)  has  been  that  as  long 
as  three  or  four  stood  together  they  were  safe  from 
attack,  but  if  any  of  their  number  wandered  off  alone, 
they  never  returned. 

This  is  the  tribe  of  savages  who  occasionally  practice 
cannibalism.  It  is  well  known  that  they  adhere  to  the 
terrible  custom  of  beheading,  instead  of  scalping  their 
victims.  It  has  been  an  unpleasant  experience  of  mine 
to  have  handled  a  number  of  these  heads,  which  they 
carry  on  their  belts,  and  specimens  of  which  may  be 
seen  in  the  Museum  at  Washington. 

The  heads  are  specially  prepared  by  being  first  sus- 


350  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

pended  by  the  hair  over  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  the 
steam  from  which  softens  the  skin.  The  bones  of  the 
skull  are  then  carefully  removed  without  breaking  the 
skin.  Into  the  cavity  thus  made  sand  and  pebbles  are 
tightly  packed.  These  are  allowed  to  dry,  the  head 
gradually  shrinking  until  it  becomes  as  small  as  that 
of  a  doll.  It  is  remarkable  how  well  preserved  are 
the  features  of  a  shrunken  image. 

It  is  said  that  these  people  readily  recognize  the  com- 
pressed features  of  their  enemies  or  friends,  and  that 
they  rather  enjoy  the  continued  association  with  de- 
parted friends  as  we  do  looking  at  the  pictures  in  our 
photograph  albums. 

Quite  good  specimens  of  this  outlandish  custom  may 
be  obtained  in  the  towns  adjacent  to  the  Maranon,  at 
a  reasonable  price  per  head.  It  is  said  that  the  good 
prices  paid  per  head  became  an  inducement  to  the 
Indians  to  murder  innocent  victims  in  order  to  pro- 
cure the  money  offered  for  the  curios.  The  authori- 
ties then  prohibited  the  traffic.  Naturally  one  would 
like  to  see  the  heads  of  this  entire  tribe  on  exhibition 
in  the  museums  of  the  world. 

These  Indians  pretend  to  be  friendly,  but  treacher- 
ously murder  those  whom  they  find  at  their  mercy. 
There  is  a  tradition  that  in  this  they  are  encouraged 
by  some  of  the  descendents  of  the  early  Spanish  set- 
tlers, whose  motive  is  to  retain  possession  of  the  rich 
gold   washings. 

It  is  also  intimated  that  some  missionaries  are  inter- 
ested in  holding  this  section  as  a  source  of  revenue 
for  their  churches.  Neither  of  these  assertions,  how- 
ever, were  sustained  by  investigation.    By  experience, 


GOLD  MINES  351 

it  was  clearly  disproved  by  the  good  character  and  ex- 
ample of  two  of  the  best  men  of  that  region,  Dr.  Alher- 
noz,  the  treasurer  of  the  Department,  who  has  spent  a 
life-time  in  his  efforts  to  attract  emigration  to  the 
Cahapanas  region,  and  the  Rev.  Father  John  Visor- 
lot,  a  faithful  missionarj^  who  has  lived  a  life  of  self- 
sacrificing  devotion  amongst  these  people. 

To  my  observation  that  I  could  not  understand  why 
a  gentleman  of  his  education  could  be  content  to  live 
the  terrible  life  among  the  Indians,  he  smilingly  re- 
plied, as  he  lifted  the  cross  attached  to  a  strap  from  his 
belt,  ''My  son,  if  I  can  but  present  this  crucifix  to  the 
eyes  of  a  single  dying  Indian,  I  am  compensated  for  my 
life's  work." 

Dr.  Alhernoz  has  through  the  Peruvian  Consul-Gen- 
eral  at  Southampton,  Sr.  H.  Guillaume,  F.  R.  G.  S., 
published  a  carefully  descriptive  account  of  the  Caha- 
panas region,  which  may  be  obtained  upon  application 
to  the  Consul-General.  Those  who  may  desire  full  and 
reliable  information  may  address  Rev.  Padre  Visorlot, 
at  Chachapoyas,  Peru. 

It  was  my  pleasure  and  privilege  to  have  the  most 
agreeable  intercourse  with  both  of  these  gentlemen 
while  at  Chachapoyas,  and  obtained  their  consent  to 
this  use  of  their  names  for  reference. 

Padre  Visorlot  showed  me  some  tubes  or  vials  made 
from  transparent  intestines  or  the  tips  of  goat's  horns 
that  were  filled  with  gold  washings.  It  was  the  custom 
of  the  Indians  to  wash  the  sand,  and  from  the  grains 
thus  selected  they  paid  the  missionaries  for  their  ser- 
vices.    They  had  no  other  use  for  the  gold. 

Mining  has  never  been  attempted,  but  it  is  safe  to 


352  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

assume  that  where  gold  is  found  so  largely  in  the 
sands,  there  is  probably  a  better  supply  in  the  source 
in  the  mountains  from  which  tthe  sand  is  washed. 

Chachapoyas  is  a  healthful  place,  if  one  may  judge 
by  the  large  number  of  ugly  old  men  and  women  to 
be  seen  there.  It  differs  from  Moyabamba  in  respect 
to  the  character  and  appearance  of  its  inhabitants. 
Here  they  wear  shawls  or  ponchos  instead  of  mantuas, 
and  every  man  and  woman  is  topped  off  with  a  turban 
made  from  a  red  bandana  in  place  of  a  hat,  giving  them 
a  brigandish  appearance. 

The  people  are  sullen  and  reserved  as  compared 
with  the  Moyabambians.  The  cold  requires  that  they 
live  more  indoors,  and  consequently  they  are  not  as 
clean-looking  and  happy  as  those  of  the  milder  climate. 

Chachapoyas  is  another  of  the  many  interesting  old 
towns  of  interior  Peru,  in  which  the  archeological  ex- 
plorer may  discover  valuable  matter  buried  in  the 
walls  and  ruins  of  this  almost  inaccessible  civilization 
of  the  Andes.  There  are  numerous  churches  and  con- 
vents, and  other  old  buildings  in  the  place,  the  adobe  or 
grayish  mud  walls  of  which  have  withstood  the  pelting 
storms  of  the  centuries.  There  are  also  some  unex- 
plained ruins  of  buildings  of  the  earlier  civilization  of 
the  Inca,  probably  a  thousand  years  before  the  Spanish 
conquest. 

Probably  the  reason  for  this  architecture  of  the  mud 
period  being  more  enduring  than  that  of  our  brick  or 
granite  may  be  attributed  to  the  unchangeableness  of 
the  climate.  There  is  little  variation  in  temperature 
during  the  year^  and  consequently  no  ill  effects  from 


A  FESTA  IN  CHACHAPOYAS  353 

alternating  heat  and  cold,  nor  from  upheavals  from 
freezing  at  night  and  thawing  in  the  sun. 

Happening  to  be  at  Chachapoyas  on  a  festal  occasion 
which  was  being  celebrated  both  in  North  and  South 
America,  it  was  my  privilege  to  take  part  in  the  festivi- 
ties of  this  comparatively  old  town,  nestling  amongst 
the  Central  Andes,  almost  in  the  heart  of  the  continent. 

According  to  the  custom  of  the  coimtries  where 
newspapers  and  bulletins  are  unknown,  the  Prefect 
had  the  day  previous  given  the  official  notice  by  means 
of  a  squad  of  mounted  soldiers  parading  the  streets, 
heralded  by  a  noisy  bugler  to  attract  and  collect  the 
crowds. 

The  cavalcade  halted  on  each  corner,  while  an  officer 
pompously  read  in  a  loud  voice,  somewhat  like  a  town 
crier,  the  Prefecto^s  explanations  of  the  events,  with 
instructions  and  commands  to  the  people  to  make  it 
an  occasion  of  joy  and  congratulation,  as  well  as  of 
prayer  and  thanksgiving. 

Though  holidays  are  quite  common  in  that  land,  this 
was  an  extraordinary  occasion,  the  promotion  of  which 
had  probably  emanated  from  Washington,  and  through 
the  avenues  of  the  Diplomatic  channels  reached  this 
point  from  Lima. 

As  in  all  such  affairs,  the  ceremonies  were  opened 
with  elaborate  church  services,  which  in  this  instance 
took  the  form  of  a  mass  for  the  repose  of  the  soul  of  the 
discoverer  of  America. 

During  the  clanging  of  church  bells,  the  popu- 
lace began  to  assemble  in  the  streets,  with  gen- 
eral interchange  of  odd  greetings  and  comments,  and 
the  imbibing  of  rum,  which  had  the  effect  of  increasing 


354  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  enthusiasm,  and  the  regard  for  the  repose  of 
Colombo's   soul. 

As  I  was  the  only  American  who  had  ever  visited  the 
town  I  was  expressly  honored  by  formal  calls  from  the 
most  distinguished  people  of  the  place  for  the  exchange 
of  congratulations. 

The  old  Prefect,  in  the  full  uniform  of  a  colonel  of 
the  Peruvian  army,  attended  by  his  secretary  attired 
in  a  black  suit,  and  wearing  a  pair  of  gloves 
that  encased  his  hands  like  boxing  gloves,  in  making 
an  early  morning  call,  found  me  in  my  shirt  sleeves. 
Quickly  taking  in  the  situation,  I  at  once  dressed  prop- 
erly and  received  from  the  Prefect  his  dignified  and 
courteous  greetings. 

In  attempting  to  respond,  my  lack  of  Spanish 
afforded  apology  for  the  want  of  proper  words  to  ^'ex- 
press the  palpitations  of  the  Americano's  heart  in 
adulation  of  the  noble  countrj^men  of  Colombo,  who 
now  represented  the  dignity  and  honor  of  their 
country. ' ' 

As  a  further  means  of  expressing  our  mutual  admir- 
ation and  with  a  view  of  illustrating  the  advanced 
civilization  of  North  America,  an  American  cocktail 
was  proposed.  This  was  concocted  from  the  pure  rum 
of  the  country  with  Cascarilla  bitters  made  from  bark 
more  bitter  than  quinine,  flavored  with  a  little  sugar, 
and  scented  with  a  bit  of  the  lime  or  lemon  of  that 
country.  Into  each  glass  of  this  cocktail  I  had  learned 
to  put  the  crushed  red  coffee  berry,  that  in  appearance 
resembled  a  wild  cherry,  but  tasted  like  a  bitter  olive. 
These  were  used  after  swallowing  the  bitter  dose  as 
an  antidote  to  relieve  the  choking  effects  of  the  bitters, 


AN  ANDES  COCKTAIL  355 

and  was  a  counter-irritant  like  red  pepper  and  garlic 
combined. 

It  is  the  custom  of  the  Spanish  when  drinking  to- 
gether, to  lift  the  glass  and  utter  the  words,  **  Salute, 
senor ! ' ' — the  manner  of  intonation  of  voice  giving  the 
words  an  expressive  significance. 

During  the  numerous  calls  of  the  day,  including 
those  of  the  Padres  and  all  the  officials  by  whom 
Colombo  was  ''saluted,"  the  American  cocktail  became 
quite  popular. 

A  banquet  had  been  arranged  for  the  evening  at  the 
residence  of  Dr.  Alhernoz,  to  which  a  few  from  the 
upper  ''400"  had  been  invited,  including  the  senoras 
and  senoritas.  The  Americano  was  also  among  the  in- 
vited guests. 

Naturally  entertaining  some  misgivings  as  to  my 
ability  to  represent  America  in  such  exclusive  society, 
my  regrets  were  tendered,  but  my  genial  host,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  Prefecto,  prevailed  upon  me  to 
be  present,  and  I  accepted  on  condition  that  the  Ameri- 
cano was  to  be  entertained  as  a  silent  guest,  who  de- 
sired by  his  mere  presence  to  express  his  appreciation 
and  good  fellowship. 

The  previous  year,  in  going  home  from  Brazil  via 
France  and  England,  my  Consular  dress  suit,  as  being 
of  no  further  use,  had  been  packed  away  and  shipped 
direct  to  America.    , 

On  reaching  Paris  and  London  I  was  surprised  to  find 
that  the  people  attended  the  famous  Alhambra  and  Em- 
pire theatres  in  evening  dress. 

To  avoid  a  similar  occurrence  on  this  second  trip, 
the  suit  was  put  in  my  trunk,  expecting  that  it  migh^ 


356  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

be  useful  at  Lima,  but  without  thought  of  appearing 
in  evening  dress  en  route.  It  came  in  very  nicely, 
therefore,  for  this  extraordinary  occasion  and  added 
interest  by  the  apparent  absurdity  of  its  appearance 
on  top  of  the  Andes. 

Dressing  with  great  care,  even  to  the  white  tie  and 
white  kid  gloves — as  though  the  affair  were  to  be  a 
most  ceremonial  one — with  rather  red  face,  flushed  of 
course,  from  exposure,  and  not  by  reason  of  the  many 
cocktails  imbibed  during  the  day,  the  "make-up"  of 
the  Americano  was  equal  to  that  of  a  character  from 
some  comic  opera. 

Of  these  conventionalities  of  civilization,  Inez  was 
a  most  curious  and  interested  observer.  She  added  a 
finishing  touch  to  my  toilet  by  pinning  a  small  flower 
to  the  lapel  of  my  coat.  She,  too,  was  putting  on  airs, 
for  she  was  now  wearing  a  pair  of  shoes  and  red  stock- 
ings, and  a  new  mantua,  which  was  much  less  becom- 
ing to  her  than  the  poncho  worn  while  travelling  on 
the  trail. 

As  the  banquet  was  early,  the  guests  await- 
ing me  assembled  in  the  doctor's  ante-rooms 
looking  as  solemn  and  dignified  as  though 
attending  a  funeral.  Though  they  were  evidently  sur- 
prised at  the  appearance  of  the  Americano  rigged  out 
in  a  costume  they  had  only  seen  in  pictures,  yet  they 
politely  refrained  from  exhibiting  any  greater  interest 
than  if  it  were  an  every  day  occurrence  in  the  little 
town  of  Chachapoyas. 

The  Americano  was  seated  at  the  right  of  the  Pre- 
fect, who  occupied  the  head  of  the  table,  with  Senora 
Alhernoz   opposite;   on   either  side   of  her   were   her 


A  BANQUET  357 

daughter  and  niece  of  about  fifteen  years,  who  was  in- 
troduced as  Senorita  Natita,  a  pet  name,  the  diminu- 
tive of  Natividad. 

The  Prefect  whispered  confidentially  that  this  young 
lady  represented  the  best  and  most  exclusive  of  the 
Peruvian  Spanish  families. 

(All  present  being  about  7,500  feet  above  the  ordin- 
ary world,  it  might  altogether  have  been  termed  quite 
a  **high"  toned  affair.) 

The  menu,  the  best  the  country  afforded,  was  con- 
fined to  native  dishes,  served  with  wine  of  Peru. 

It  is  a  custom  to  quietly  sip  a  toast  at  table  with  any 
one  of  the  party  you  may  desire. 

Senorita  Natita,  who  was  seated  nearly  oposite  to 
me,  quite  bashfully  avoided  my  efforts  to  catch  her 
eye.  This  amused  the  other  ladies  and  the  Prefect, 
who  finally  prevailed  upon  her  to  drink  silently  with 
the  Americano,  and  while  doing  so,  her  face  became 
suffused  with  blushes  as  warm  as  the  red  wine  she 
sipped. 

The  usual  round  of  speech-making  followed,  America 
being  frequently  complimented,  to  which  acknowledg- 
ment was  made  by  a  rising  bow. 

Toward  the  close  of  the  banquet,  the  guest  of  honor 
inconsiderately  ''put  his  foot  into  it"  by  attempting  to 
compliment  that  part  of  the  country  as  an  interesting 
study,  thoughtlessly  observing  that  in  the  sense  of 
looking  backward  it  was  a  most  attractive  field  for  the 
visitor,  because  **it  would  show  just  about  how  the 
country  was  when  Columbus  discovered  it." 

The  laugh  which  followed  this  effort  made  me  wish 
that  one  of  their  awful  earthquakes  might  suddenly 


358  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOHROW 

open    and    swallow   that    whole    company,    including 
myself. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

N  addition  to  the  rains,  the  delay  at 
Chachapoyas  was  being  made  unbear- 
able  by   the    pests   that   infest   the 
vicinity  known  as  Guarapatas.    These 
are  small  ticks  or  grey  insects  that 
are  peculiar  to  the  reddish,  sandy  soil 
found    only    in    a    narrow    belt    of 
country  surrounding  Chachapoyas. 
During  the  day  they  are  inactive,  and  being  nearly 
the  color  of  the  soil  and  quite  small,  are  almost  in- 
visible, but  microscopic  examination  will  show  them  to 
be  as  numerous,  apparently,  as  are  the  grains  of  sand. 
At  night  they  get  to  the  body,  and  tor  each  insect 
reaching  it,  the  sleeper  finds  in  the  morning  two  little 
red  pin  points  like  the  marks  of  sharp  teeth. 

The  only  protection  is  to  sleep  in  hammocks  or  camp 
beds,  so  arranged  that  the  blankets  will  not  touch  the 
soil,  thus  preventing  the  pests  from  reaching  the 
sleeper.  They  are  more  numerous  in  the  poorer  class 
of  houses  with  unswept  earth  floors.  It  is  the  custom 
to  sleep  on  top  of  tables  or  benches,  while  in  the  Guar- 
apata  district.  This  elevation  from  the  floor  does  not, 
however,  relieve  the  tourist  with  a  sensitive  cuticle 
from  the  more  vicious  attacks  of  the  universally  ab- 
horred pulga,  or  Spanish  flea,  which  abounds  every- 
where in  Peru,  west  of  Moyabamba. 

Because  of  there  being  no  winters  in  this  climate  the 
insects  increase  rapidly,  and  the  tourist  naturally  finds 

359 


360  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

that  there  presence  in  such  large  numbers  is  quite  an 
obstacle  to  his  enjoyment  of  life  in  these  regions.  Tem- 
porary relief  is  obtained  by  starting  forest  or  prairie 
fires,  the  preventive  and  remedy  being  to  bathe  in 
spirits,  or  the  rum  of  cashasa,  which  is  abundant  and. 
cheap.  It  is  not  advisable,  however,  to  use  camphor 
in  the  rum  bath,  an  old  woman's  remedy  recommended 
to  me  by  the  grandmother  of  Inez. 

The  delay  of  the  brother  and  grandmother  of  Inez 
in  coming  to  meet  her  aroused  considerable  concern  as 
to  the  welfare  of  Inez.  It  became  evident  from  her 
flushed  cheeks  and  suppressed  cough,  that  she  was 
marked  as  a  victim  of  consumption,  the  prevailing 
malady,  due  entirely  to  exposure  and  lack  of  proper 
care.  Because  of  indifferently  exposing  themselves,  it 
is  a  wonder  that  any  of  the  girls  live  to  reach  maturity. 
In  an  ordinary  climate,  the  fatalities  would  have 
almost  annihilated  the  sex  in  imagination  and  reality. 

I  seemed  to  see  the  spiritual  face  of  a  dying  girl 
appealing  to  me  for  protection  and  endeavored  to  pre- 
vail upon  her  to  return  to  Moyabamba  before  she  grew 
worse. 

The  cold  rains  and  the  unpleasant  surroundings  of 
Chachapoyas,  as  compared  with  the  sunny  valley  of  her 
home,  aided  in  presenting  the  matter  to  her.  It  was 
further  explained  that  the  agreement  was  that  she 
should  go  to  Lima  only  in  company  with  her  grand- 
mother. As  she  had  not  come,  this  would  relieve  me 
of  the  dreadful  responsibility  that  had  been  thrust 
upon  me.  I  could  not  take  her  to  Lima,  to  be  left  there 
alone,  without  protection  amongst  a  class  worse  than 
brutes.     She  might  come  later. 


INEZ  RETURNS  361 

0 

During  the  kindly  talks  we  had  together  she  would 
cry  just  like  a  little  child,  but  she  was  sensible  enough 
to  know  that  this  was  the  proper  course,  and  became 
reconciled  to  return.  She  seemed  also  to  understand 
that  it  was  getting  late  in  the  season  and  dangerous 
to  expose  herself  to  the  further  hardships  of  the  severe 
trail  beyond,  before  we  could  reach  the  Pacific. 

She  had  a  great  desire  to  see  the  Pacific,  and  when 
I  talked  of  the  huge  ships,  she  would  look  into  my 
face  with  the  eager  interest  and  curiosity  of  a  child 
listening  to  a  Mother  Goose  story. 

A  convoy  composed  of  a  travelling  government  en- 
gineer and  a  photographer  and  his  wife,  a  stout  Span- 
ish  woman,  offered  the  desired  escort  and  facilities  for 
a  safe  journey  back  to  Moyabamba. 

Inez  was  provided  with  all  she  could  carry  in  the 
way  of  fancy  dress  stuffs,  shoes,  stockings,  cheap  jew- 
els, etc.,  the  possession  of  which  would  make  her  the 
envy  of  all  the  Moyabamba  girls. 

In  the  company  of  a  townsman  of  the  escort,  she 
smilingly  came  to  my  quarters  to  say  **adios.'*  Her 
appearance  in  the  fancy  poncho  and  hat  so  familiar 
to  the  early  days  of  the  trail,  imnerved  me,  but  after 
hesitating  a  moment,  I  observed,  "Are  you  going, 
Inez?" 

Looking  at  me  as  though  surprised  at  the  question, 
she  replied,  ''Como  no,  senorT'  (or,  why  not?)  adding, 
^  *  *  You  are  going,  Don  Jose  ? ' ' 

Turning  to  privately  select  a  few  coins  for  a  parting 
gift,  I  heard  the  soft,  sweet  voice  in  tremulous  tones, 
repeat  in  a  sadly  resproachful  manner,  "Don  Jose"  as 
only  a  senorita  can  say  "Don  Ho-say." 


362  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

(Sara  Bernhardt  in  Camille,  while  separating  from 
her  lover,  when  reluctantly  speaking  the  name 
*' Andre,"  with  a  pathos  none  other  can  give,  recalls 
Inez'  last  words,  "Don  Jose.")  When  I  turned  she 
had  gone  forever. 

Thus  ends  the  true  story  of  Inez,  which  has  been 
related  as  representing  a  phase  of  life  peculiar  to  the 
Land  of  To-Morrow. 

My  own  departure  was  hastened  by  an  incautious 
breach  of  the  proprieties  with  the  old  Prefect. 

Feeling  that  I  might  in  some  way  be  held  responsible 
for  the  safe  return  of  Inez,  in  case  she  should  be  taken 
ill  on  the  way  back  or  should  be  deserted  by  her  escort, 
it  occurred  to  me  to  have  the  Napo  copy  into  Spanish 
a  translation  of  a  personal  letter  explaining  the  facts 
and  my  connection  with  the  affair.  The  idea  was  to 
leave  a  record,  which  would,  in  the  event  of  future 
complications — probablj^  in  my  absence — relieve  me 
of  responsibilities  and  show  that  the  grandmother,  or 
guardian  of  the  girl,  had  consented  to  this  arrangement, 
but  had  failed  to  keep  her  part  of  the  contract. 

In  addressing  this  letter  to  the  Prefect,  I  assumed  it 
to  be  simply  a  personal  matter,  as  between  two  gen- 
tlemen. 

He,  as  well  as  the  other  officials,  had  known  all  about 
it  in  his  own  quarters,  but  the  Prefect  as  a  Spanish 
official  of  dignity  and  importance,  was  altogether  an- 
other and  a  superior  personage  to  the  Spanish  gentle- 
man. 

The  trouble  arose,  not  at  all  because  of  Inez,  w^ho 
was  not  even  considered,  but  entirely  on  account  of  my 


PREFECT  ON  HIS  DIGNITY  363 

failure  to  separate  the  distinguished  Prefect  from  the 
gentleman. 

The  Napo^s  translation  of  my  English  in  a  delicate 
matter  like  this  probably  added  to  the  trouble.  He 
had  mildly  cautioned  me  against  taking  such  action, 
but  without  a  thought  of  any  impropriety,  I  insisted 
upon  the  delivery  of  the  letter. 

If  a  deliberate  insult  to  his  excellency  had  been 
attempted,  the  effect  could  not  have  been  greater,  my 
innocent  note  creating  in  the  palacio  as  much  constern- 
ation as  would  a  gunshot  or  a  bombshell  from  the 
hands  of  an  assassin. 

The  town  soon  heard  of  it,  and  with  a  view  of  correct- 
ing any  false  impression,  I  called  upon  the  Prefect 
to  explain  that  it  was  not  an  official,  but  a  private 
note. 

He  was  severely  on  his  dignity.  lie  had  been 
offended  by  even  the  mere  mention  of  an  ordinary  girl. 
These  were  creatures  who  were,  in  his  estimation,  not 
thought  worthy  of  any  consideration.    . 

The  trouble  was  further  increased  by  the  presence 
of  a  German  tramp,  who  had  been  living  in  Peru  for 
some  years  and  who,  it  was  understood,  had  lived  in 
the  United  States,  whence  he  had  fled  because  of  some 
criminal  proceedings. 

The  next  day,  after  a  letter  of  explanation  to  Dr. 
Alhernoz,  I  dressed  in  white  trousers,  big  boots  and 
hat,  and  mounting  a  mule,  rode  proudly  out  of  the 
toA\Ti  of  Guarapatas,  but  the  old  Prefect  had  made  an 
international  question  out  of  it,  by  writing  to  his 
government  at  Lima,  charging  me  with  having  insulted 
him,  no  mention  being  made  of  Inez, 


364  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

There  are  no  extensive  valleys  in  the  Department  of 
Chachapoyas.  The  mountains  are  almost  continuous, 
quite  narrow  defiles  that  look  like  ribbons  or  meadows 
of  a  lighter  green  color,  lining  the  crevices  between 
the  high  hills. 

My  observations  during  several  toilsome  days'  ride 
over  this  stretch  of  high  rolling  land,  led  me  to  the 
conclusion  that  this  part  of  Peru  could  not  sustain  a 
much  greater  population  than  that  now  so  sparsely 
covering  it. 

In  descending  the  western  slope,  our  view  was  ob- 
structed by  what  appeared  to  be  a  fog  in  the  valley 
beneath,  but  which  in  reality  was  a  rain  cloud.  Hurry- 
ing down  from  the  cold  winds,  we  were  enveloped  in  a 
heavy  mist,  and  for  some  distance  rode  in  the  clouds 
almost  blindly,  except  for  the  path  immediately  in 
front,  and  down  into  a  warm  valley,  in  which  the  grass 
and  trees  were  yet  dripping  and  looking  bright  and 
green  from  the  refreshing  shower  that  had  recently 
fallen. 

Without  dismounting  the  horseman  might  gather 
numerous  wild  flowers  from  the  banks  and  cliffs  along 
which  his  path  lay.  It  became  my  fancy  to  try  to 
select  no  two  alike.  My  pockets,  my  hat  band,  and 
even  the  saddle  trimmings  were  decorated  with  these 
blossoms. 

It  is  one  of  the  characteristics  of  the  Indian  char- 
acter never  to  oppose  a  person  of  feeble  mind.  This 
fact  accounts  for  the  protection  which  is  accorded 
naturalists  and  bug  hunters,  who  fly  about  recklessly 
in  search  of  rare  specimens. 

The  Indians  noticing  my  craze  for  flowers,  no  doubt 


AN  INCA  BALSA  365 

considered  me  of  weak  mind  and  were  disposed  to 
humor  me,  and  even  collected  flowers  for  me. 

The  day  before  we  reached  the  balzas,  or  the  old, 
old  crossing  or  ferriage  of  the  Maranon  used  by  the 
Incas,  we  could  catch  glimpses  from  the  immense 
mountain  top,  of  the  rushing  river,  now  a  mountain 
torrent.  We  were  so  far  above,  that  the  winding, 
tortuous  descent  of  the  barren  mountain  sides  occupied 
the  entire  day. 

On  the  fourth  day  after  leaving  Chachapoyas  we 
slept  to  the  music  of  the  rushing  waters,  which  we 
knew  flowed  on  and  on  until  they  reached  the  ocean 
at  the  mouth  of  the  mighty  river  from  which  we  started 
months  ago,  and  were  not  yet  able  to  cross  on  foot. 

Balzas  is  the  Spanish  for  a  raft  used  for  carrying 
across  the  water.  It  is  constructed  of  logs  of  the  tacto, 
a  wood  as  light  as  cork,  and  found  in  the  adjacent 
forests.  The  logs  are  bound  tightly  to  cross  pieces  of 
tough  strips  or  saplings  by  withes  of  a  fibre  that  is 
more  flexible  and  quite  as  strong  as  telegraph  wire, 
which  they  resemble  in  size. 

These  rafts  are  of  peculiar  formation,  being  oblong 
rather  than  square,  timbers  being  selected  which  give 
the  flat  raft  the  desirable  bow  and  stern  shape.  In  the 
centre  a  raised  diaz  or  platform  is  constructed  for  the 
protection  of  goods  and  packages  from  the  water. 

In  the  passage  of  rough  rivers  or  in  descending 
rapids  the  water  frequently  covers  the  logs.  The 
Indians  with  poles  or  paddles  stand  knee-deep  and 
work  vigorously  and  are  prepared  to  jump  in  the  water 
to  swim  and  tow  or  steer  the  raft  around  dangerous 
places. 


366  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

There  are  no  canoes  used  on  this  upper  Amazon  be- 
cause of  the  dangerous  rapids.  Balzas  are  required 
for  ferrying  even  over  this  pool,  the  only  restful  bit  of 
water  suitable  for  safe  crossing  that  has  been  used  in 
hundreds  of  years  by  Incas  and  their  descendents. 

Just  above,  the  river  is  lashed  into  an  angry  foam 
against  rocky  obstructions,  and  a  mile  below  there  is 
another  equally  dangerous  cascade.  The  water  runs 
so  rapidly  in  the  pool  that  it  is  necessary  to  start  at 
the  top  on  one  side  in  order  to  land  nearly  a  mile  below 
on  the  other  side.  A  single  misstep  would  result  in 
the  stream  carrying  the  helpless  victims  to  the  reverse 
of  a  quiet  grave. 

The  balza  is  on  the  Maranon,  about  5,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  about  3,500  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Amazon,  and  yet  another  1,000  miles  from 
its  source. 

While  experiencing  the  usual  delay  in  awaiting  to 
be  transported,  I  amused  myself  in  shaping  from  a  bit 
of  cork  wood,  a  model  of  a  little  ship,  in  the  centre  of 
which  was  inserted  a  mast  and  on  the  peak  of  this 
was  fastened  a  miniature  American  flag.  With  a  knife, 
I  laboriously  carved  the  name  *'Julietta,"  and  over  a 
bottle  of  wine  spilt  to  the  health  of  the  baron's  daugh- 
ter, the  belle  of  Para,  she  was  launched  and  floated  on 
her  tempestuous  way  to  Para,  loaded  with  love  and 
ballasted  with  good  wishes. 

At  this  point,  a  leaf  is  missing  from  my  notebook, 
which  was  mailed  to  this  lady,  with  a  request  that  she 
should  keep  a  lookout  on  the  river  in  front  of  Para 
for  this  little  ship,  but  it  probably  "passed  in  the 


A  MISSING  LEAF  367 

night"  and  floated  down  into  the  broad  ocean  of 
oblivion. 

We  succeeded  in  crossing  safely,  but  enjoyed  the 
usual  morning  ** circus'^  with  the  recalcitrant  mules, 
who  were  driven  into  the  stream  as  if  for  the  purpose 
of  drowning  them.  The  stoning  and  shouts  of  the  sav- 
ages on  the  shore  preventing  their  returning,  they 
were  compelled  to  swim  to  the  other  side  or  go  over 
the  rapids. 

On  leaving  here  we  got  our  last  view  of  this  source 
of  the  Amazon,  which  at  this  point  reaches  nearest  to 
the  Pacific. 

We  made  a  zig-zig  ascent  of  the  mountains  on  the 
west  side,  over  a  precipitous  trail  like  **cat  steps'*  or 
a  ** mule's  ladder,"  being  nearly  an  entire  day  spent  in 
sight  of  the  balsa  below  us. 

The  summits  of  these  mountains  are  about  7,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  On  the  farther  side 
the  descent  is  scarcely  less  precipitous,  to  the  settle- 
ment of  Calendin,  where  we  rested  a  day  in  the  hospit- 
able home  of  a  merchant  to  whom  we  had  been  en- 
dorsed. 

The  type  of  native  hereabouts  is  of  a  different  and 
somewhat  improved  appearance.  The  better  class  are 
more  distinctly  Spanish  in  their  bearing,  with  less  of 
the  Indian  in  their  blood.  This  was  impressed  upon 
us  while  seated  in  the  house  of  our  host,  who  made 
his  appearance  at  the  door,  tall,  straight,  with  a  Span- 
ish beard,  sombrero  in  hand,  and  in  a  dignified  and 
courteous  manner  introduced  himself  in  these  words: 

''To-mas  Dias,  at  your  service,  senors."     (His  name 


368  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

was  Thomas  Dias,  the  accent  in  Thomas  falling  upon 
the  syllable  ''mas."} 

The  day  following  we  rode  over  another  dangerous 
mountain,  the  trail  leading  us  at  last  on  to  the  famous 
plateau  or  high  table  land  extending  from  Quito  on  the 
north  to  Cuzco  on  the  south — thousands  of  miles  of  ele- 
vated plain  or  pampas  located  between  the  coast  range 
and  the  Central  Andes,  known  as  the  ''Land  of  the 
Incas." 

It  is  probably  on  these  great  plains  or  pampas  that 
the  early  civilization  of  Incas  existed  perhaps  during 
a  thousand  years  prior  to  the  conquest,  of  which 
numerous  evidences  of  engineering  in  road  building 
remains. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

N  the  old  town  of  Carjamarca,  nestling  in 
a  secluded,  green  valley,  and  protected 
by  the  shadows  of  the  towering  Andes 
from  the   winds   of  the   Pacific,   is  the 
centre  of  the  wonderful  plateau  which 
extends  from  Quito,  in  Ecuador,  to  Cuzco, 
Peru,  which  was  the  scene  of  Pizarro's 
treachery.     We  approach  its  ancient  por- 
tals with  a  feeling  of  reverence  mingled  with  a  sense 
of  mortification  lest  we  should  meet,  perhaps,  some  of 
the  descendents  of  the  Incas  who  were  so  shamefully 
treated  by  the  conquerors  in  the  name  of  Christianity. 
From  this  point  to  the  end  of  our  journey  at  Lima, 
the  traveller  may  take  for  a  guide  book  that  beautifully 
romantic  history  of  our  countryman,  **Prescott's  Con- 
quest of  Peru.'* 

A  book  might  be  written  from  the  story  of  tradition 
as  told  the  writer  by  descendents  of  the  last  of  the 
Incas,  and  though  it  could  not  be  compared  with  the 
work  of  our  Prescott  it  would  at  least  have  the  merit 
of  being  taken  from  real  life  on  the  ground. 

Prescott  is  recognized  as  the  classical  historian  of 
the  period,  and  his  books  are  in  all  the  libraries  of  the 
world,  yet,  without  presuming  to  criticise,  one  may  call 
attention  to  the  admitted  fact  that  it  is  largely  collab- 
orated from  the  annals  of  the  early  Spanish  writers, 
but  little  credence  being  given  to  the  interpretation  by 

369 


370  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  descendents  of  the  last  tribe  of  the  Inca's  dynasty, 
with  whom  they  were  at  enmity. 

When  one  remembers  that  neither  Prescott  nor  his 
collaborators  had  visited  this  country,  and  painfully 
recalls  the  sad  fact  that  the  great  historian  was  practi- 
cally a  blind  Milton,  whose  wonderful  work  was  penned 
by  amanuenses,  wonder  grows  to  actual  admiration,  as 
we  look  upon  scenes  made  so  vividly  familiar  by  the 
pen  of  the  blind  artist,  who  pictures  so  exactly,  even 
the  rocky  background  of  dreadful  tragedies  enacted 
on  this  ground. 

It  is  said  of  our  country  that  it  is  too  new;  that  it 
is  a  land  without  ruins,  and  that  a  land  without  ruins 
is  a  land  without  memories,  and  a  land  without  memor- 
ies is  a  land  without  a  story. 

This  cannot  be  said  of  Equatorial  South  America,  or 
the  Land  of  the  Incas. 

On  this  plateau,  and  equi-distant  from  each  other, 
are  the  towns  of  Quito,  Cajamarca  and  Cuzco,  with 
ruins  so  ancient  that  their  origin  can  scarcely  be 
traced.  It  is  conceded  that  a  civilization  existed  here 
more  advanced  than  that  of  the  conquerors. 

Gold  and  silver  were  mined,  and  beautiful  ornaments 
and  objects  of  art  were  manufactured  from  the  same, 
five  hundred  years  before  Columbus  discovered 
America,  and  it  may  be  that  the  possession  of  these 
treasures  was  the  incentive  for  Pizarro's  freebooting 
adventures  in  the  name  of  Christianity. 

The  traveller  may  ride  for  many  days  over  roads 
parallel  with  irrigating  channels  cut  in  the  rocky  moun- 
tain sides,  by  the  Incas,  that  still  carry  streams  of 
melted  mountain  snows  to  fertilize  what  would  other- 


HOME  OP  THE  LAST  INCA  DYNASTY       371 


Cajamarca  Water  Girls 


372  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

wise  be  a  desert  land;  and  these  evidences  of  en- 
gineering ability,  compared  with  like  construction  in 
our  days,  indicate  that  there  have  been  no  modern 
works  that  have  practically  and  successfully  over- 
come greater  natural  difficulties. 

These  irrigating  channels  wind  along  for  hundreds  of 
miles,  conveying  large  streams  of  water  by  means  of 
gravity;  from  these  main  sources,  lateral  ditches  are 
made,  that  conduct  supplies  to  the  numerous  valleys  at 
the  base  of  the  mountains. 

Some  distance  beyond  the  town  one  may  halt  and 
bathe  in  the  famous  banos  or  baths  of  hot  water,  known 
as  King  Atahualpa's  famous  bathing  resort. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  valley  a  large  volume  of  hot 
water  boils  from  the  rocky  base  of  the  mountain,  the 
ragged  tops  and  sides  of  which  looks  as  if  it  might  be 
the  crater  of  a  volcano. 

The  running  water  has,  however,  apparently  washed 
the  rocky  bed  smooth  at  the  bottom  of  cascades  and 
falls,  while  the  steady  drippings  have  worn  pools  in 
the  immense  rocks. 

It  was  in  these  solid  stone  bath  tubs  that  the  Inca 
prince  and  his  wives  were  accustomed  to  bathe,  but  now 
they  are  free  to  all  the  people,  and  many  enjoy  them 
in  the  promiscuous  manner  peculiar  to  these  easy- 
going people. 

The  plain  through  which  the  overflow  of  warm  water 
runs  in  volume  similar  to  a  small  creek,  is  bordered  or 
fringed  by  a  dense  growth  of  tropical  plants,  propa- 
gated by  the  warm  moisture. 

Along  the  sides  of  these  creeks,  under  the  shade  of 


NATURE'S  LAUNDRY  373 

this  growth,  is  a  natural  steam  laundry,  for  Cajamarca 
is  filled  with  washerwomen. 

The  water  has  some  remarkable  curative  properties, 
and  of  itself,  the  spring  is  worthy  of  the  visits  of  in- 
valids, and  would  justify  even  the  three  or  four  days* 
trip  from  the  Pacific  on  mules. 

We  camped  on  this  historic  spot  for  an  hour,  while 
we  bathed  in  the  famous  banos,  that  we  might  wash  off 
the  dust  of  travel  before  entering  the  sacred  city. 

From  the  banos  to  the  gates  or  edge  of  the  village, 
the  traveller  from  the  east  will  ride  over  a  ** King's 
Causeway"  or  roadbed,  across  the  plains,  some  three 
miles  in  extent,  every  stone  of  which  was  laid  by  the 
Incas,  hundreds  of  years  before  America  was  discov- 
ered. It  is  a  line  of  stone  block  pavement,  eight  or 
ten  feet  in  width,  that  resembles  our  modern  Belgian 
block  system,  is  as  straight  as  if  marked  by  an  en- 
gineer's compass,  and  is  yet  in  excellent  order. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  this  is  the  location  where 
Prince  Atahualpa  was  camped  when  Pizarro's  emis- 
saries appeared  on  horse,  intending  to  inveigle  him  into 
their  trap. 

The  Incas  advanced  to  their  unhappy  fate  over  this 
road  of  their  own  building,  which  still  remains  as  a 
monument  of  Pizarro's  perfidy  and  of  Inca  civilization. 

On  either  side  are  large  plains  or  pampas,  on  which 
many  thousands  of  cattle  peacefully  grazed  in  security, 
fenced  in  from  the  road  by  tall  hedges  of  ever-bloom- 
ing roses. 

For  the  first  time  in  many  months,  the  traveller  in 
crossing  the  continent  realizes  that  he  is  again  ap- 
proaching civilization.     The  tranquil  surroundings  of 


374  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  town  ahead,  with  its  church  spires  and  bells  and 
many  other  indications,  serve  to  create  a  feeling  of 
relief  that  the  journey  is  at  an  end. 

The  architecture  of  Cajamarca  is  quite  distinct  from 
that  of  any  other  of  the  Peruvian  settlements.  The 
houses  being  constructed  of  stone  blocks,  it  might  be 
called  a  stone  town,  as  distinguished  from  the  mud 
building  of  Chachapoyas,  and  the  bamboo  and  thatch 
dwellings  of  Moyabamba. 

The  style  of  the  architecture  is  superior  to  that  seen 
elsewhere  in  Peru,  not  excepting  Lima,  which  it  ante- 
dates centuries,  as  an  Inca  city. 

Around  the  large  Plaza  in  the  centre,  are  grouped 
the  usual  churches  and  government  buildings,  and  a 
few  large  shops ;  and  on  the  spot  where  it  is  supposed 
that  Atahaualpa  was  murdered,  quite  an  artistic  foun- 
tain plays  constantly. 

On  the  south  side,  the  celebrated  Church  of  San 
Francisco,  a  beautiful,  large  stone  structure,  presents 
an  imposing  appearance  from  its  location  in  a  tropical 
garden.  It  is  referred  to  by  Prescott.  On  the  opposite 
side  the  Cathedral,  like  an  immense  pile  of  stone,  stands 
with  a  massive  front,  as  of  a  wall  carved  out  of  a  rocky 
precipice.  It  has  an  arched  roof  and  ceiling  of  solid 
blocks  of  stone,  lined  with  gold,  and  is  more  modern, 
but  not  so  graceful  and  impressive  a  structure  as  the 
old  church  of  San  Francisco. 

A  study  of  the  architecture  of  this  old  town  would 
afford  some  interesting  developments  for  the  artist. 
Not  only  the  churches,  but  the  residences  are  taste- 
fully relieved  by  no  end  of  odd  bits  in  the  way  of 


ANCIENT  STONE  ARCHITECTURE         375 

recessed  windows,  balconies  and  other  breaks  that 
relieve  the  appearance  of  the  heavy  walls. 

The  town  is  located  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the 
range  of  the  most  westerly  Andes  that  rise  almost  per- 
pendicularly behind  it. 

The  altitude  is  estimated  at  9,000  feet,  but  because  of 
its  proximity  to  the  coast  and  protection  by  the  moun- 
tains, it  appears  to  be  even  warmer  and  equable  in 
climate  than  Chachapoyas,  which  is  2,000  feet  lower, 
but  so  situated  as  to  get  the  force  of  the  winds. 

The  streets  are  all  paved  with  block  stone,  and  the 
pavements  laid  with  slabs.  Running  water  from  the 
mountains  is  conducted  in  gutters  or  ditches  through 
all  the  streets  and  serves  for  the  system  of  surface 
sewerage. 

Carjamarca  is  a  most  important  business  location, 
being  the  centre  of  the  rich  mining  district  of  this  part 
of  Peru. 

It  is  also  the  headquarters  for  the  church.  Peruvians 
say  that  the  population  of  Cajamarca  is  made  up  of 
paSres  and  sisters,  with  their  innumerable  churches 
and  convents.  Though  it  is  the  head  of  a  department 
with  a  Prefect  or  Governor,  and  also  a  sub-Prefect 
and  a  military  organization,  it  is  conceded  that  the 
bishop  rules. 

The  populace  are  so  fanatical,  that  it  is  said  (as  a 
hint  to  be  cautious)  that  if  a  priest  should  point  his 
finger  at  a  stranger,  intimating  that  he  was  a  heretic 
and  an  enemy  of  the  church,  he  would  be  found  dead 
not  very  long  afterward. 

It  was  observed  that  the  people  walking  about  the 
streets  stopped  suddenly  when  the  church  bell  rang, 


376  THE  LAxND  OF  TO-MORROW 

and  with  uncovered  heads,  prayed  wherever  they  hap- 
pened to  be. 

An  odd  funeral  cortege  passed,  in  which  the  body  was 
being  borne  to  the  church  in  a  bed  or  crib,  followed  by 
the  lone  widow  on  a  donkey,  and  with  a  mob  bringing 
up  the  rear. 

At  Chachapoyas  attention  was  attracted  by  the  ring- 
ing of  a  bell,  reminding  one  of  the  calling  together  of 
a  crowd  for  an  auction  sale,  or  for  the  finding  of  a 
lost  child. 

The  bell-ringer  proved  to  be  a  bareheaded  native, 
following  a  robed  priest,  who  was  reading  an  open 
book  as  he  walked  along  the  street.  Preceding  him 
were  two  boys  with  lighted  candles.  As  the  sun  was 
shining  brightly,  I  innocently  inquired  what  the  cere- 
mony meant,  and  was  informed  that  the  priest  was 
going  to  attend  a  dying  person.  He  was  going  at  what 
I  considered  a  very  leisurely  pace. 

Throughout  Peru,  bell-ringing  seems  to  be  as  much 
an  integral  part  of  church  worship  as  the  firing  of 
rockets  in  Brazil. 

In  the  more  remote  regions  they  are  sometimes  short 
of  bell-ringers,  as  related  by  a  Spanish  merchant. 

The  Bishop  of  Chachapoyas  had  rewarded  a  faithful 
body  servant  by  making  a  priest  out  of  him.  In  per- 
forming the  service  in  a  missionary  capacity,  not  hav- 
ing any  properly  trained  altar  boys  to  ring  the  bell 
at  the  proper  moment,  this  ingenius  padre  hit  upon  the 
expedient  of  attaching  the  bell  to  his  own  foot.  As  he 
slowly  turned  and  presented  the  host,  he  simply  vio- 
lently kicked  the  foot  to  which  the  bell  was  attached, 


to 

< 

X 

H 

D 
O 

cn 

U4 
o 

►J 
K 


THE  CHURCH  IX  CAJAAIARCA  377 

causing  it  to  jingle,  the  people  in  front  bowing  in 
reverence  at  each  kick. 

Perhaps  this  story  may  not  be  believed  in  America, 
but  I  believe  it  to  be  true,  although  I  didn't  hear  the 
bell  myself. 

The  Napo  guide,  like  everyone  else,  was  a  Catholic, 
but  one  who  hated  the  priests  with  an  intensity  that 
could  not  be  understood,  because,  he  said,  they  ruled 
his  country — Ecuador. 

In  one  of  the  villages,  one  evening  we  attended  a  ser- 
vice where  the  bamboo  church  was  beautifully  illumi- 
nated with  innumerable  candles,  composed  of  wax 
made  by  wild  bees  in  the  forest. 

I  stood  in  the  rear  of  the  church,  while  the  choir, 
composed  of  a  couple  of  violins  and  mandolins  were 
rendering  in  a  very  fair  style  some  of  the  dreamy 
music  of  II  Trovatore.  Suddenly  turning  in  the  dim 
light  to  retire  quietly,  I  stumbled  over  the  kneeling 
form  of  the  Napo,  who  was  just  behind  me.  In  the 
confusion  I  managed  to  escape,  followed  by  the  laugh- 
ing idiot,  who  observed  in  apology,  **Senor,  I  was 
praying  like  hell  when  you  jumped  on  me.** 

In  using  this  language  he  had  no  idea  of  its  gro- 
tesqueness  or  impropriety.  It  was  his  simple  way  of 
desiring  to  emphasize  in  English  the  sincerity  of  the 
devotion  I  had  fallen  upon. 

It  was  my  usual  good  fortune  to  have  encountered 
many  congenial  people  at  Cajamarca,  amongst  whom  was 
Mr.  Oscar  Kuntze,  a  prominent  English-speaking  mer- 
chant, and  the  German  Consul  for  that  part  of  Peru, 
an  importer  of  goods  and  the  largest  trader  of  the 
interior,  to  whom  I  presented  a  letter  of  endorsement. 


378  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  accounts  of  his  extensive  dealings  had  suggested 
the  usual  large,  jolly-faced  German,  somewhat  past 
middle  life,  a  business  man  who  would  probably  not 
hesitate  to  fire  personal  questions  at  a  traveller. 

On  the  journey  from  the  balza,  our  fellow  tourist  was 
a  young  Peruviana  named  Antonio,  a  handsome  senor 
of  about  thirty-five  years  of  age,  who  was  travelling 
to  Lima  to  look  after  his  appointment  as  sub-Prefect 
for  that  town. 

We  had  taken  lodgings  together  at  the  house  in  the 
town  designated  for  that  purpose,  expecting  to  get 
our  meals  at  the  Chinese  fond  a,  or  restaurant. 

The  Chinese  element  was  much  in  evidence  here,  as 
cooks,  servants,  laborers  and  merchants,  and,  although 
they  are  not  desired  by  the  Catholic  officials,  they  are 
there  to  stay,  and  it  is  probable  that  many  will  go  on 
to  the  interior. 

In  company  with  my  friend,  Antonio,  we  called  on 
Consul  Kuntze,  and  found  his  house  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  residences  in  the  city. 

The  entrance  to  a  large  court  ornamented  with  grow- 
ing plants  almost  shielding  a  playing  fountain,  was 
barred  by  a  double  gateway  that  extended  across  a 
passage  wide  enough  to  admit  a  wagon.  As  there  was 
no  outside  entrance,  we  attracted  the  attention  of  a 
white  woman,  of  a  blonde,  German  type,  by  peering 
through  the  bars,  but,  instead  of  opening  the  gate, 
she  laughingly  ran  into  the  house  as  if  to  avoid  the 
rough-looking  strangers. 

In  another  moment,  a  young  lady,  also  a  blonde, 
but  with  delicate  figure  and  refined  bearing,  came 
smilingly  to  the  gate,  saying  in  broken  English : 


GERMAN  CONSUL  AND  FAMILY  379 

*'We  no  speak  English.'* 

**Why/*  I  retorted  quickly,  **you  do  speak  elegant 
English.'*  We  then  introduced  ourselves  and  ex- 
pressed a  desire  to  see  Consul  Kuntze. 

**He  is  ill,  and  asleep  just  now;  you  come  in  and 
wait  one  moment." 

Not  desiring  to  interrupt  the  siesta,  we  excused  our- 
selves, with  the  words,  **  Please  tell  your  father  that 
we  will  call  this  evening." 

**My  father!"  she  said  laughingly,  **you  mean  my 
husband." 

She  was  the  pretty  wife  of  the  old  German  pictured 
in  mental  photograph  and  who  materialized  in  another 
hour  as  a  handsome  gentleman  of  thirty  or  thirty-five 
who  graciously  introduced  himself  as  Mr.  Kuntze. 

We  were  not  permitted  to  dine  at  the  fonda  again, 
the  Consul  urged  us  to  take  our  meals  with  him,  which 
invitation  we  gladly  accepted. 

The  evening  German  dinners,  served  with  a  style 
and  taste  not  excelled  anywhere  in  that  land,  was  one 
of  the  most  enjoyable  experiences  of  the  trip. 

Mrs.  Kuntze  was  one  of  those  charming  little  women 
who  know  how  to  make  a  home  agreeable  in  distant 
lands.  With  unlimited  wealth  and  resources,  she  was 
able  to  gratify  the  tastes  of  her  early  education,  and 
had  brought  from  Germany  nearly  all  the  articles  of 
furniture  that  so  tastefully  adorned  her  far-away  home. 

She  had  two  sweet  little  children,  white  headed, 
clear  complexioned  girls  of  five  and  seven  years,  who 
spoke  German  and  Spanish,  but  could  only  smile  in 
English. 

In  my  embarrassment  on  entering  the  dining-room, 


380  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

the  name  of  the  beautiful  young  lady  to  whom  we 
were  presented,  was  not  understood.  She  was  of 
medium  height,  quite  slender  in  figure,  with  the  most 
fascinating  eyes  I  had  ever  seen.  Her  hair  being  quite 
light  in  color,  it  was  assumed  that  she  was  the  sister 
of  our  German  hostess. 

She  talked  sweetly  in  Spanish  to  my  companion,  An- 
tonio, who  sat  on  one  side  of  her,  while  Mr.  Kuntze 
was  on  the  other.  It  was  intimated  to  the  hostess,  in 
sotto  voce,  that  she  shouldn't  have  placed  that  pretty 
girl  between  two  old  married  men.  The  ladies  caught 
my  meaning  and  the  two  laughed  heartily,  Mrs.  Kuntze 
remarking  that  next  time  she  should  be  seated  beside 
a  young  man. 

There  was  at  dinner  Mr.  Felix  Leon,  a  typical  Span- 
ish gentleman  of  elegant  bearing,  who  had  been  liber- 
ally educated  abroad,  having  spent  seventeen  years  in 
a  business  house  in  England.  He  had  recently  re- 
turned, as  the  manager  of  Mr.  Kuntze 's  extensive  mer- 
cantile interests. 

After  the  guests  had  retired,  some  inquiries  about 
Mrs.  Kuntze 's  sisters  developed  the  fact  that  the  lady 
whose  name  I  did  not  know,  was  the  sister  of  the 
Spanish  gentleman,  Mr.  Leon.  He  laughingly  observed 
that  although  his  father  and  mother  were  decidedly  of 
the  Spanish  type,  as  were  the  other  brothers  and  sis- 
ters, Senorita  Marie  Leon,  a  native  of  Pana,  one  of  the 
northern  districts  of  Peru,  was  a  most  marked  excep- 
tion to  the  rule. 

Mr.  Kuntze  had  arranged  a  concert  for  the  evening, 
in  which,  according  to  the  German  custom,  all  took 
part,  even  the  little  girls  singing  a  pretty  duet.    There 


AN  ENJOYABLE  MUSICAL  EVENT         381 

was  among  the  guests  a  young  German  accountant, 
who  assisted  in  entertaining  us. 

To  my  utter  astonishment,  Miss  Marie  Leon  rendered 
choice  selections  from  the  operas  in  a  style  that  I 
have  never  heard  excelled  by  non-professionals  in  any 
parlor  in  our  land.  She  was  indeed  a  phenomenal  per- 
former in  execution  and  expression.  She  was  also  a 
wonderful  beauty. 

The  remarkable  feature  about  this  entertainment  was 
the  piano,  which  was  the  only  one  in  the  town.  This 
anomaly  will  be  understood,  when  it  is  remembered  that 
there  were  no  railways  nor  boats,  and  not  even  an 
approach  to  a  wagon  or  vehicle  in  all  that  country. 

The  towering  Andes  that  separated  the  town  from 
the  farther  civilization  of  the  coast,  though  only  from 
three  to  five  days  distant,  formed  a  barrier  that  could 
only  be  surmounted  or  "overcome  by  mules.  No  one 
mule  had  ever  yet  been  trained  to  carry  a  piano  over 
the  mountains,  and  no  two  had  ever  been  known  to 
work  together  harmoniously  on  a  narrow  trail.  The 
piano,  weighing  considerably  over  1,500  pounds,  was 
carried  on  the  shoulders  of  Indians  during  the  several 
days  necessary  to  foot  it  over  the  Andes. 

This  made  the  performance  of  II  Trovatore  and 
numerous  popular  airs  all  the  more  interesting,  espec- 
ially to  a  lonely  traveller,  whose  soul  is  easily  moved  by 
sweet  songs,  and  this  evening  of  social  delights  seemed 
to  bring  me  that  much  nearer  home. 

My  enjoyment  of  the  music  seemed  to  be  appreciated 
by  the  performer  who  was  pleased  to  continue  and 
often  repeat  favorites  for  the  stranger  who  stood  by  her 
side,  while  the  rest  of  the  company  chatted. 


382  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Mr.'  Ostendorf,  the  young  German,  and  Miss  Leon 
plaj^ed  duets  in  a  striking  manner.  After  this,  Mrs. 
Kuntze,  with  great  tact  brought  the  lady  and  seated  her 
on  the  sofa  next  to  me,  and  charmingly  managed  to  in- 
terpret for  us,  to  her  own  great  amusement. 

Miss  Leon  insisted  that  she  must  become  a  Sister  of 
Charity  or  Mercy,  and  enter  a  convent,  to  which  we 
protested,  when  the  Consul  slyly  observed  in  Ioav 
English,  ''She  doesn't  mean  anj^thing  of  the  sort.  She 
wants  to  marry  some  one  who  will  take  her  to  see  the 
world  outside,  which  is  the  dream  of  her  life.'^ 

It  was  not  supposed  that  any  of  these  people  would 
have  heard  of  the  episode  at  Moyabamba,  though  Senor 
Antonio  declared  that  everybody  along  the  road  had 
done  so,  and  that  the  people  did  not  know  whether  to 
laugh  most  at  me  for  my  ridiculous  mistake  of  explain- 
ing to  the  old  Prefect,  or  at  him  for  his  absurd  dignity ; 
but  it  was  altogether  too  good  a  joke  to  remain  a  secret. 

In  the  conversation  we  avoided  any  reference  to  Moy- 
abamba and  discreetly  attempted  to  make  Miss  Leon  be- 
lieve that  like  herself,  we  were  good  Catholics  and  that 
if  she  went  into  a  convent  we  would  follow  to  a  mon- 
astery. 

With  an  incredulous  smile,  she  asked  the  pointed 
question,  "Do  you  go  to  confession ?''  looking  signifi- 
cantly at  Mrs.  Kuntze,  while  everybody  laughed  immod- 
erately. Pretending  that  it  was  at  my  answer  "that 
I  did  not,  because  I  hadn  't  time, ' '  Mr.  Kuntze  observed, 
"It  would  take  too  much  of  your  time.  I'm  afraid 
you  are  as  good  a  Catholic  as  I  am  a  Protestant." 

After    the    pleasant   party    separated,    Senor    Leon 


THE  INCA  RUINS  383 

walked  home  with  us,  and  he  told  a  story  apropos  of 
confessions  on  the  Andes. 

Senor  Felix  Leon,  who  as  a  student,  was  quite 
familiar  with  all  the  points  of  interest  in  Cajamarca, 
kindly  volunteered  to  act  as  our  guide  through  this 
historic   city. 

It  was  a  privilege  to  stand  in  what  is  known  as  the 
room  of  the  palace  of  Atahualpa,  which  is  made  for- 
ever memorable  by  the  well  authenticated  story  of  its 
being  half  filled  with  gold  ornaments  and  massive 
plate. 

The  point  in  the  wall  reached  by  the  tip  of  Pizarro's 
sword,  with  its  dimensions  of  15  by  18  or  20  feet,  would 
seem  to  the  visitor  of  present  Peru  to  have  been  im- 
probable. Yet  there  is  no  one  feature  of  the  remark- 
able story  of  the  conquest  more  clearly  attested  than 
this.  It  has  been  shown  from  numerous  sources  that 
the  distribution  of  the  booty  would  justify  the  proba- 
bility of  the  room  being  so  filled  with  gold  and  silver 
articles. 

The  building  is  almost  a  ruin.  It  has  withstood  the 
ravages  of  centuries  of  storm,  but  no  care  was  taken 
of  it,  and  it  suffered  from  worse  than  neglect,  because 
it  stood  in  the  way  of  some  modern  church  improve- 
ments, being  located  in  an  abandoned  court,  or  old 
garden  near  the  famous  FranciscQ  Church.  A  rude 
stone  wall  almost  conceals  it  from  the  narrow  street. 

The  foundation  rests  upon  a  rock,  the  walls  being 
laid  in  quite  heavy  oblong  blocks  of  dressed  stone,  so 
closely  joined  that  a  knife-blade  will  scarcely  enter 
the  cracks,     There  has  been  an  addition  to  its  original 


384  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

height,  the  marks  of  which  can  clearly  be  discerned  by 
the  difference  in  the  masonry. 

Much  of  interest  may  be  gathered  by  a  visit  to  Caja- 
marca  that  may  be  of  greater  historic  value  to  Amer- 
icans than  may  be  found  by  tours  to  the  old  world. 

Many  curious  questions  are  pressed  upon  the  mind 
of  the  traveller  in  his  crude  investigations  hereabouts. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  origin  of  the  Inca 
dynasty  though  shrouded  in  mystery,  is  claimed  to  be 
similar  to  that  of  Adam  and  Eve. 

Their  tradition  say  that  the  first  Incas  were  the  son 
and  daughter  of  the  Sun  God,  and  the  Moon,  his  wife. 
In  the  emblems  of  these  children  of  the  Sun,  gold  rep- 
resents the  Father,  or  the  sun,  and  the  silver  that 
of  the  Mother,  or  moon.  The  two  original  children 
of  the  sun  were  brother  and  sister,  from  the  marrying 
of  whom  sprang  the  Inca  dynasty,  which  for  centuries 
so  wisely  and  w^onderfully  ruled  the  hordes  of  savages, 
whom  they  transformed  from  almost  inhuman  animals 
or  cannibals  to  become  the  useful  agriculturalists  and 
miners  who  were  developing  this  land  from  Cuzco  to 
Quito,  when  they  were  dispersed  by  Pizarro's 
marauders. 

Whatever  may  be  the  theories,  it  is  to  be  noted  that 
since  this  conquest,  but  little  advance  has  been  made 
by  the  conqueror  in  the  way  of  improvement  of  the 
country  since  it  was  wrested  from  the  Incas;  and  not- 
withstanding the  absurdities  of  the  Inca  views  of  God 
and  a  hereafter,  it  must  be  conceded  that  in  their  selec- 
tion of  the  sun  as  an  idol  of  worship,  they  closely 
approached  what  some  scientists  of  our  electric  age 
are  attempting  to  establish,  that  the  sun  is  the  source 


MISSIONARY  DISCUSSION  385 

of  all  life,  that  it  is  heat,  and  that  heat  is  electricity, 
and  that  electricity  is  life  itself.  And  the  rubber  of 
the  forests  in  the  insulation,  represents  in  its  elasticity 
the  life  principle  more  nearly  than  any  known  sub- 
stance. 

It  is  possible  that  the  currents  of  the  kingfly  Amazon 
rising  in  these  mountains  on  the  Equator,  and  at  this 
highest  part  of  the  earth,  may  have  unconsciously 
carried  the  germs  of  animal  as  well  as  vegetable  life 
to  the  African  currents,  which  distributed  them  to  our 
side  of  the  world  by  the  Gulf  Stream. 

But  speculation  on  these  questions  is  not  part  of  a 
narrative  of  actual  observations. 

In  discussing  the  American  missionary  question 
with  an  intelligent  Don  who  was  rather  getting 
the  best  of  the  argument,  as  he  was  able  to 
show  that  their  civilization  was  not  improved  by 
contact  with  ours,  I  fell  back  as  a  defense 
on  the  familiar  quotation  from  the  Scripture, 
which  I  thought  would  be  such  a  crushing  rejoinder 
that  I  uttered  it  with  emphasis: 

**Go  ye  into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  Gospel  to 
every  creature.'' 

I  was  rather  brought  to  my  feet  by  the  neat  reply: 
*'Si,  senor,"  (yes,  sir)  ''that  is  true,  but  that  command 
did  not  come  from  America. ' ' 

One  is  apt  to  realize,  after  a  residence  in  these  lands, 
that  some  religious  and  other  conditions  adapted  to  our 
country  are  not  always  applicable  to  latitude  0. 

After  adios  to  kind  friends  and  a  last  drink  of  the 
waters   that  flow   into   the   Land   of   To-Morrow,   we 


386  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

begin  the  ascent  of  this,  the  coast,  and  last  range  of  the 
Andes. 

The  trail  does  not  follow  the  route  over  which 
Pizarro  led  or  rode  the  first  horses  into  the  Land  of  the 
Incas. 

One  who  has  labored  for  days  up  the  stiff  grade  and 
along  the  narrow  and  dangerous  caminos  on  this  well- 
beaten  path,  wonders  how  it  was  possible  for  Pizarro 
and  his  soldiers  to  have  found  even  a  foot-hold  on  the 
then  unknown  steeps  and  valleys,  and  becomes  lost 
in  admiration  of  the  daring  and  persistence  of  these 
men  and  surprised  at  the  indifference  of  the  Inca  chiefs 
in  not  offering  the  resistance  afforded  by  the  natural 
barriers. 

While  slowly  riding  up  the  long  trail  we  were 
nearly  the  entire  day  in  sight  of  the  beautiful  valley 
and  city,  the  route  following  the  winding  course  of 
those  wonderful  conduits  or  irrigating  ditches  built  by 
the  Incas  (and  still  in  use  by  the  people)  occasionally 
crossing  suspension  or  hanging  bridges  made  from 
fibre,  or  following  causeways  over  dangerous  passes, 
built  perhaps  a  thousand  years  ago,  we  at  last  reach  the 
top  or  divide,  which  is  indicated  by  the  absence  of 
moisture  or  vegetation,  while  its  desolate,  dreary  sur- 
roundings and  the  cold  winds  from  the  Pacific  add  to 
our  sadness  at  this  farewell  to  the  Land  of  To-Morrow. 

After  one  longing  look  backward,  we  turn  our  horses ' 
heads  toward  the  setting  sun  and  hasten  down  the 
western  slope.  We  followed  the  trails  down  into  the 
valley,  along  the  sunken  or  lost  river  bed,  upon  which 
the  American  engineer,  Meigs,  actually  constructed  and 
operated  for  a  brief  time,  a  railway,,  being  entirely 


OVER  THE  GREAT  DIVIDE  387 

unlike  that  of  the  Oroyo  which  ascends  or  winds  up 
mountain  sides. 

This  lost  river  that  had  not  shown  a  drop  of  water 
over  its  deserted  bed  during  the  life  of  the  oldest 
inhabitant,  seemed  to  resent  the  laying  of  rails  on  its 
breast.  And  one  or  two  warm  days  melted  the  snows 
of  the  Andes,  causing  the  waters  to  roll  along  in  great 
volumes,  completely  cleaning  it  of  railroad,  as  did  the 
Conemaugh  at  the  time  of  the  Johnstown  flood. 

It  is  amusing  to  discover  at  different  points  in  the 
valley  fine  looking  stations  that  were  sent  out  in  sec- 
tions, which  being  erected  on  higher  ground,  were  not 
washed  away,  but  are  now  wholly  isolated,  as  there  is 
not  even  the  appearance  of  a  railway. 

The  camino  leads  through  narrow  valleys,  often  mere 
shelves  cut  in  the  sides  of  the  peaks  of  the  barren 
Andes.  On  the  western  slope  there  is  no  vegetation 
on  the  mountain  sides.  This  is  found  only  down  in 
the  valleys  where  there  is  moisture  and  protection  from 
the  high  winds  that  blow  through  the  narrow  passes 
fiercely  and  without  a  moment's  cessation,  making  it 
not  only  uncomfortable  to  the  rider,  but  adding  to  the 
difficulties  and  dangers  of  both  rider  and  mule,  the 
winds  sometimes  almost  lifting  one  from  the  saddle. 

At  the  few  settlements  the  accommodations  for  the 
traveller  are  provided  by  the  Chinese  "fondas"  instead 
of  by  the  hospitable  don.  The  Chinest  are  here  in  great 
numbers. 

The  remains  of  the  railwaj^  over  which  trains  are 
run  three  times  a  week,  extend  a  few  miles  out  from 
the  coast,  but  as  we  were  tired  and  in  a  hurry,  we  rode 
our  horses  all  the  way.    After  three  days  we  were  glad- 


388  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MOHROW 

dened  by  a  sight  of  the  Pacific.  In  an  exuberance  of 
gratitude,  we  rode  to  the  very  edge  of  the  breaking 
waves  on  the  broad  beach  at  the  port  of  Pacaswayo. 
When  we  reached  the  Pacific  or  cable  station,  I  received 
the  first  news  from  home  in  eleven  months. 

As  stated  in  the  introductory,  this  trip  had  been 
undertaken  with  the  expectation  that  my  friend,  Mr. 
Blaine,  would  soon  receive  the  nomination,  and  I  hoped 
if  he  became  President,  to  be  suitably  rewarded  by  an 
appointment  commensurate  with  the  experiences  which 
I  had  accumulated. 

The  first  intelligence,  however,  was  not  quite  the 
welcome  news  I  had  expected.  In  the  interim,  while 
I  was  in  the  interior,  Mr.  Blaine  had  died,  Mr.  Cleve- 
land was  again  President,  and  I  was  out  of  a  job  (mj^ 
principals  having  consolidated  with  the  Rubber  Trust) 
and  more  than  5,000  miles  from  home,  ragged  and 
without  money.  Remembering  the  kindly  good-bye 
words  of  my  old  associate,  Mr.  Carnegie,  who  had 
kindly- said,  **Draw  on  me  if  you  get  strapped  down 
there,"  I  made  the  draft  on  New  York  through  the 
Consul  at  Callao,  which  was  soon  after  returned  with 
the  endorsement  that  Mr.  Carnegie  was  in  Scotland. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

S  we  sailed  down  the  broad  waters  of  the 
Pacific  we  had  leisure  for  reflection  and 
opportunity  for  comparison.  In  almost 
every  particular  the  Pacific  coast  of  Peru 
is  the  antipodes  of  the  Atlantic  coast  of 
Brazil.  On  the  morning,  or  sunrise  side  of 
Amazonia,  the  dark  background  of  rich 
soil  on  the  level  surface  is  covered  with  a  velvety  green 
and  yellow  carpet,  which  is  relieved  by  figures  repre- 
senting flowers  dazzingly  beautiful  in  color  and  of  un- 
tiring irregularity  in  pattern  and  kept  perennially 
bright  by  the  showers  that  refresh  them  daily. 

On  the  sunset  side  of  the  Andes,  the  Pacific  coast 
for  thousands  of  miles  is  a  barren,  desolate  stretch  of 
mountains  of  sand,  except  for  the  occasional  patches  of 
green  in  some  protected  valleys  which  are  watered  by 
irrigation,  the  eye  of  the  weary  traveller  sees  nothing 
upon  which  to  rest  its  gaze,  but  wastes  of  sand  hills  on 
one  side,  the  lonely  Pacific  ocean  on  the  other,  and 
overhead  the  blue  sky,  unrelieved  by  even  a  floating 
cloud. 

While  it  rains  every  day  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  it 
has  never  been  known  to  rain  on  this  part  of  the  Pacific 
coast. 

The  cold,  harsh  winds  that  are  never  weary,  raise 
only  clouds  of  sand,  or  in  some  seasons  heavy  fogs  are 
brought  from  over  the  water.  On  the  Atlantic  side 
the  evening  winds  bring  the  rains.     This  difference  is 

389 


390  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

more  noticeable  to  the  wanderer  who  has  come  through 
the  beautiful  interior  of  the  continent  than  to  the 
tourist  who  sailed  along  the  coast. 

After  crossing  the  great  divide,  which  is  on  the 
summit  of  the  Coast  range  of  the  Andes,  from  whence 
the  water  on  one  side  goes  to  the  Atlantic  through  thou- 
sands of  miles  of  beautiful  Amazonia,  and  on  the  other 
dribbles  into  the  Pacific  in  two  or  three  days,  over 
rocky,  sandy  beds  so  thirsty  that  they  almost  swallow 
the  entire  stream. 

During  the  last  three  days  down  the  westerly  slopes 
the  trail  for  the  greater  part  of  the  way  followed  the 
dry  beds  of  the  streams  through  the  valley,  or  chiseled 
in  the  edges  of  rugged,  perpendicular  cliffs,  along 
barren,  rocky  precipices. 

In  appearance  the  varied  terra-cotta  colorings  of  the 
bare  formation  that  is  ever  before  the  gaze,  one  is 
reminded  of  the  paintings  of  the  Yosemite  and  Yellow- 
stone, to  be  seen  in  the  Senate  lobby  of  the  Capitol 
Building  at  Washington. 

As  compared  with  the  fresh  green  of  the  Eastern  and 
Central  Andes,  this  range  may  be  described  as  a  chaos 
of  blasted  landscape — the  mouth  of  hell  instead  of 
an  Eden. 

As  we  passed  through  them  the  midday  sun  from 
behind  veils  of  white  clouds  sent  its  beaming  rays  upon 
our  unprotected  heads,  while  our  progress  was  impeded 
by  the  winds  of  the  Pacific. 

The  peaks  and  crags,  covered  only  with  the  drop- 
ings  of  blood-colored  earth,  as  from  the  mouth  of  a 
volcano,  were  so  high,  that,  riding  along,  one  could 
scarcely  see  their  tops  without  straining  the  head  back 


THE  PACIFIC  RANGE  OF  ANDES  391 


392  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

and  removing  the  cap  or  visor,  while  just  beneath  were 
the  quebrados  or  terrible  crevices  into  whose  depths 
the  distance  was,  apparently,  as  great  as  that  to  the 
mountaintops. 

The  desolate  solitude  of  these  mountain  tops  was 
invaded  only  by  the  flight  and  by  the  ugly  cries  of  the 
lonely  condor,  the  debased  eagle  of  the  Andes.  These 
immense  birds  which  resemble  in  appearance  our  bronze 
barnyard  turkeys,  are  not  to  be  admired  except  at  a 
distance,  where  they  gracefully  soar  over  and  above 
the  highest  peaks.  While  they  are  quite  large,  and  it 
is  understood  they  can  take  a  sheep  in  their  talons,  to 
slaughter  it  by  dropping  on  the  rocks  below,  and  a 
flock  of  two  or  more  are  said  to  attack  living  cattle,  yet 
they  are  not. so  immense  as  many  of  those  in  Africa, 
which,  according  to  some  writers,  are  able  to  destroy 
wild  animals. 

It  is  an  almost  overlooked  feature  of  our  physical 
geographies  that,  excepting  the  Columbia,  no  naviga- 
ble rivers  enter  the  Pacific,  and  scarcely  any  large 
streams,  and  nothing  to  be  compared  to  the  Amazon, 
Orinoco  and  La  Platte  of  the  Southern  Atlantic,  and 
the  Mississippi,  Potomac,  Delaware,  Hudson  and  St. 
Lawrence  of  our  continent. 

While  sailing  along  the  Pacific  coast  to  Callao,  the 
landing  point  to  Lima,  one  realizes  that  the  end  is 
reached ;  that  there  is  no  more  beyond ;  and  though  the 
Pacific  leads  to  far-away  China  and  the  Indies,  it  ap- 
pears even  easier  to  reach  those  countries  by  way  of  the 
Atlantic  to  Europe. 

The  efforts  of  these  people  have  always  been  directed 
to  the  quickest  route  east  by  the  railway  over  the 


ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT  393 

Andes,  through  Chili  to  the  Platte  in  Argentine,  or 
through  the  Straits  of  Magellan  or  via  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama. 

This  journey  has  served  to  demonstrate  that  a  more 
desirable  route,  leading  through  the  richest  section  of 
the  continent,  would  be  through  the  completion  of  the 
shorter  Oroyo  railroad  from  Lima  over  the  first  Andes 
to  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Ucayali  branch  of  the 
Amazon,  a  matter  of  less  than  one  hundred  miles,  which 
would  open  the  doors  to  the  wonderful  Land  of  To- 
Morrow. 

Officials  of  Peru,  or  the  greater  portion  of  its  more 
advanced  population  living  on  the  Pacific,  has  vainly 
attempted  to  bring  the  trade  of  Amazonia  westward 
over  the  Andes  to  enrich  their  own  Pacific  ports  by  a 
switch  back  railway  over  the  Andes  that  can  only  be 
available  for  light  traffic  or  passenger  travel  because  of 
the  enormous  expense  of  operating  a  line  of  such  heavy 
grades. 

Extensive  enterprise  and  trade  will  follow  transpor- 
tation facilities  which  seek  the  natural  outlets  down 
stream  from  Amazonia  to  the  markets  of  the  world, 
via  the  navigable  Amazon  to  the  ocean  currents. 

The  once  fabulous  mines  of  the  Pacific  Andes,  that 
have  almost  supplied  the  world  with  its  silver,  are  be- 
coming exhausted.  While  there  undoubtedly  remains 
great  deposits  in  these  Andes,  the  workings  have  be- 
come almost  impracticable  because  of  the  difficulties 
caused  by  the  increase  of  the  water,  of  which  there 
seems  to  be  no  end  to  the  suppl}^  which  is  apparently  as 
inexhaustible  as  are  the  clouds  themselves,  perhaps 
because  the  source  is  in  the  eternal  snows  of  the  moun- 


394  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

tain  tops,  which  melting,  find  their  way  to  the  open- 
ings beneath.  It  would  be  like  pumping  the  clouds,  to 
expect  to  exhaust  this  source.  Pumping  engines  are 
scarcely  practical  in  keeping  down  the  levels,  because 
of  the  scarcity  of  fuel,  most  of  which  comes  from  Eng- 
land, and,  by  reason  of  additional  inaccessibility  on 
the  mountains  of  the  interior,  transportation  is  expen- 
sive. Natural  drainage  is  not  practical.  Therefore  the 
future  of  pobre  Peru  is  not  in  the  wealth  of  her  mines, 
but  in  that  of  her  unlimited  expanse  of  forests  in  Ama- 
zonia, where  the  gold  grows  on  the  trees  in  the  form 
of  rubber  and  valuable  products  for  the  materia  medica, 
like  the  Peruvian  bark  that  furnishes  the  world  with 
its  quinine,  and  are  now  blossoming  with  other  reme- 
dies equally  as  wonderful,  which  are  awaiting  the  hand 
of  the  harvester. 

Lima,  the  oldest  city  of  South  America,  founded  by 
Pizarro,  and  at  one  time  the  capital  of  all  Spanish 
America,  is  beautifully  located  in  the  sacred  valley  of 
the  Rimac,  near  the  base  of  the  mountain  peak  of  the 
same  name,  some  seven  miles  from  the  coast. 

Lima  in  some  respects  resembles  Para,  but  in  most 
particulars  the  difference  is  as  widely  marked  as  are 
the  distances,  climate  and  situation. 

Both  may  be  compared  to  suburban  or  outlying  city 
districts  of  Paris.  One  is  impressed  with  the  idea  that 
in  both  of  these  South  American  towns,  an  effort  is 
made  by  the  citizens  to  imitate  or  follow  the  example  of 
Parisian  life — which  is  not  mentioned  to  their  discredit 
— as  Paris  fashions  and  follies  tend  rather  to  elevate  or 
give  tone  to  their  civilization. 

The  population  of  each  is  approximately  100,000. 


LIMA  COMPARED  WITH  PARA  395 

The  language  of  one  is  Spanish,  and  the  other  Por- 
tuguese. 

In  race  and  other  conditions  they  are  antagonistic, 
but  fortunately  the  difference  between  the  two  sections 
is  so  great  and  insurmountable  that  they  do  not  clash. 

Lima  being  the  capital  city  of  the  Republic  and  the 
seat  of  the  oldest  civilization  of  South  America,  occu- 
pies a  much  higher  position  in  social  and  intellectual 
rank  than  Para,  which  is  a  commercial  city  of  an  out- 
lying province  belonging  to  another  Republic, 
whose  capital  is  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  three  thou- 
sand miles  distant;  which,  is  in  a  diplomatic  or 
international  social  sense,  quite  an  important  distinc- 
tion. The  principal  governments  of  the  world  have 
representatives  at  Lima,  but  only  a  few  Consuls  are 
at  Para.  In  addition  to  the  Ministers  Plenipotentiary 
at  Lima,  there  are  numerous  Consuls  who  live  there,  in 
preference  to  Callao,  which  is  the  seaport,  five  or  six 
miles  distant. 

In  appearance  the  architecture  of  Lima  is  superior  to 
that  of  Para,  as  also  the  street  plans,  etc. 

The  Legations  of  Great  Britain  and  France  occupy 
elegant  and  commodious  buildings  on  the  principal 
streets. 

The  Spanish  Minister,  Avith  his  retinue,  is  located  in 
a  large,  low  but  massive  looking  building  surrounding 
a  court,  reminding  one  of  a  Spanish  castle. 

The  coat  of  arms  of  the  different  nations  is  usually 
emblazoned  in  a  keystone  of  the  arch  over  the  entrance 
to  the  court,  or  patio,  every  legation,  or  consulate, 
having  a  flagstaff  to  which  its  colors  are  kept  flying, 
giving  part  of  the  city  a  rather  gala  appearance. 


396  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

The  Legation  of  the  United  States  was  found  after 
considerable  inquiry  and-search,  occupying  the  interior 
rooms  in  an  upper  gallery  of  a  court  on  the  Calle  Bode- 
gone. 

The  street  front  was  used  as  one  of  the  numerous 
cheap  shops,  while  below  the  Legation  office  the  noisy 
presses  of  a  printing  establishment  rumbled  constantly. 
It  was  altogether  the  shabbiest,  cheapest  looking  Lega- 
tion in  Lima,  some  of  the  small  Republics  of  South 
America  making  a  more  imposing  appearance. 

This  may  not  be  considered  a  matter  of  any  im- 
portance at  home,  but  in  the  appearance  as  well  as  in 
the  character  of  the  individuals  representing  our  great 
nation,  as  a  matter  of  diplomatic  tact,  aside  from  any 
display  of  respectability,  such  exhibitions  of  economy 
on  the  part  of  our  representatives  should  be  prohibited 
by  act  of  Congress. 

The  Minister  then  in  charge  was  known  to  the  for- 
eign colony  in  Lima  as  the  ''Man  from  Oshkosh,"  and 
at  home  as  the  editor  of  a  nonpareil  newspaper  in  a 
small  pica  town,  at  one  time  of  service  to  a  wealthy 
Western  Senator,  who  had  gained  his  knowledge  of 
diplomacy  and  statescraft  as  his  clerk  to  a  Senate  com- 
mittee, using  his  salary  to  sustain  his  paper  in  the 
Senator's  interest. 

On  a  visit  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  Minister  a 
lady  answered  the  door  bell,  and  ushered  me  into  an 
atmosphere  of  dead  dinner.  The  Minister  in  his  lega- 
tion office,  was  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  vigorously  punch- 
ing holes  in  his  English  editorials  on  a  typewriting 
machine.  Like  a  reporter,  he  was  curious  to  know  my 
business  in  Lima. 


AMERICAN  LEGATION  IN  LIMA  397 

The  customs  of  those  people  are  exacting,  and  if 
we  should  follow  the  example  of  doing  in  Rome  as  the 
Romans  do,  it  would  be  well  to  begin  at  the  top  and 
send  representative  men  who  can  properly  represent 
America.  If  we  cannot  afford  to  do  this  in  a  becoming 
manner,  it  would  be  greater  economy,  and  more  to  our 
credit,  not  to  send  Ministers  out  at  all.  « 

This  American  Minister  was  received  by  the  Presi- 
dent of  Peru  in  a  red  coach  drawn  by  four  black  horses 
in  gorgeous  trappings,  with  liveried  attendants,  as  was 
the  custom,  sent  to  his  quarters  to  convey  him  to  and 
from  the  palace  in  this  well-known  carriage  of  state. 

The  Minister  subsequently  made  his  official  appear- 
ance  in  the  tram   cars. 

An  official  making  a  formal  call  invariably  rides  in 
a  carriage.  They  look  at  these  things  differently  in 
those  countries. 

The  churches  in  Lima  are  the  principal  buildings. 
In  the  usual  custom,  the  Cathedral,  which  is  the  oldest 
church  in  America,  with  the  bishop's  palace  adjoin- 
ing, occupies  one  entire  side  of  the  large  plaza. 

Letters  of  introduction  to  the  Lima  officials  secured 
agreeable  audiences  with  the  President  and  other  prom- 
inent officers,  to  whom  respects  were  duly  paid;  also 
to  General  Caceres,  who  accorded  pleasant  interviews 
relating  to  Amazonia. 

Another  distinguished  person  who  claimed  our  atten- 
tion was  General  Francisco  Pizarro.     To  be  sure,  he  >' 
has  been  dead  some  hundreds  of  years,  but  he  isn't' 
buried  yet. 

The  body  of  Pizarro,  well  preserved  in  a  glass  case, 
is  deposited  in  one  of  the  several  dark  chapels  of  the 


398  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

great  Cathedral.  The  attendant  monk,  who  guides 
to  the  place  of  the  hero's  repose  in  a  dim  recess, 
abruptly  strikes  a  noisy  match  to  enable  us  to  see,  the 
sudden  explosion  and  flash  of  light  might  well  make  one 
think  that  the  old  freebooter  had  come  to  life,  and 
struck  the  monk  in  the  face,  making  the  sparks  fly. 
The  attendant  considerately  held  the  match  on  the 
other  side  of  the  glass  case,  so  that  the  happy,  restful 
expression  of  Pizarro's  countenance  might  better  be 
seen. 

It  was  a  weird  moment,  this  looking  into  the  face  of 
the  man  who,  when  living,  had  actuallj^  performed 
those  wonderful  feats  under  the  greatest  difficulties. 
Yet,  there  was  a  sensation  of  thankfulness  that  he 
was  dead. 

The  mummy  is,  of  course,  black,  and  represents  a 
very  tall,  powerful  frame.  It  is  said  that  the  first  case 
in  which  Pizarro's  remains  reposed  for  so  long  under 
the  great  altar,  was  so  short  that  his  head  had  to  be 
cut  off  and  placed  in  his  own  arms  for  keeping,  but 
they  have  since  ' '  put  a  head ' '  on  Pizarro. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  plaza  are  the  government 
buildings  and  the  military  quarters.  The  other  two 
sides  of  the  square  are  occupied  by  blocks  of  shops  on 
the  ground  floor,  the  upper  floors  being  used  as  the 
quarters  and  hotel  of  the  municipal  or  city  officers. 

The  walk  under  the  large  portico  roof  that  extends 
to  the  street,  called  the  portal,  is  the  fashionable 
loafing  place  for  the  young  men  who  ogle  the  shopping 
senoritas. 

The  bricks  composing  some  of  the  pavements  of  these 
principal  streets  of  Lima,,  are  of  fancy  tile,  such  as  we 


NEVER  RAINS  IN  LIMA  399 

use  for  interior  hall  flooring.  As  there  are  no  rains  or 
severe  changes  in  the  temperature,  these  are  adapted  to 
this  out  of  door  use. 

Two,  and  sometimes  three,  of  the  military  bands  play 
alternately  the  same  evenings  of  the  week.  This 
arrangement  serves  to  keep  up  a  continuous  outpour 
of  music,  unrelieved  by  intervals  for  rest,  as  where 
only  one  band  plays. 

On  these  occasions  the  populace  in  large  numbers 
promenades  in  groups  over  the  the  broad  walks  of  the 
beautiful  square. 

Sometimes  when  the  band  happens  to  be  playing 
even  such  charmingly  wicked  airs  as  Juanita  La  Cos- 
tureza,  from  the  Gran  Via,  when  suddenly  a  bugle 
sounds  in  the  distance  and  the  musicians  at  a  sign  from 
their  leader,  without  taking  the  instruments  from  their 
lips,  change  the  tune  to  a  most  dismal  howl  of  a 
Miserere. 

As  soon  as  the  bishop  with  his  emblems  pass  out  of 
sight  the  lively  air  of  Juanita  La  Costureza  is  resumed. 

It  is  only  the  Spanish  musicians  who  can  render 
properly  the  airs  peculiarly  adapted  to  them  and  their 
country,  such  as  the  Estudiantiana  and  the  Esmeralda, 
and  Sobra  las  Olas. 

The  churches  of  Lima  are  numerous  and  imposing  in 
appearance.  It  seemed  as  if  there  was  one  on  every 
corner,  and  certainly  one  in  every  block.  It  is  said  that 
the  churches  and  convents,  with  the  school  property, 
occupied  more  ground  than  the  business  houses.  It 
is  also  explained  that  thirty  per  cent,  of  the  entire 
revenues  of  the  country  go  to  the  churches,  the  numer- 
o'us  clergy  being  paid  their  salaries  by  the  government. 


400  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

If  one  may  judge  by  the  patronage  of  the  masses  in 
attendance  the  churches  do  a  thriving  business.  They 
are  open  at  all  hours,  not  only  on  Sundays,  but  on  every 
other  day.  The  bells  begin  ringing  for  early  mass  at 
daylight  and  keep  ringing  at  intervals  until  bedtime. 

The  majority  of  the  attendants  seemed  to  be  the 
senoras  and  senoritas  and  their  servants.  Foreign 
critics  say  that  these  go  to  the  churches  to  meet  their 
admirers  and  lovers,  but  the  same  might  be  ungallantly 
charged  of  our  own  ladies. 

The  custom  of  the  country  prohibits  ladies  from 
walking  with  gentlemen  on  the  street,  or  elsewhere, 
unattended  by  the  family.  It  is  probable,  therefore, 
that  the  only  opportunity  the  dear  girls  have  of  seeinu 
their  admirers  is  in  this  way. 

There  are  no  seats  in  any  of  the  churches,  everybody 
kneeling  on  the  stone  floors,  or  on  rugs,  or  using  the 
praying  chairs  that  the  servants  of  the  better  class 
always  bring  to  church  with  them.  The  young  ladies 
usually  carry  their  own  bright  colored  kneeling  rugs. 

Fleas,  or  pulgas,  are  very  numerous  in  Lima,  and  no 
where  are  they  more  active  than  on  the  floors  of  the 
churches,  a  circumstance  that  is  apt  to  interfere  with 
one's  devotion  and  supplies  numerous  excuses  for  not 
attending. 

The  charming  little  city  is  famous  the  world  over  for 
the  beauty  of  its  women.  They  are  not  only  pretty, 
they  are  all  beautiful  and  have  sweet  voices.  In  Lima, 
the  ugly  girl  is  the  exception. 

For  church,  all  dress  alike,  with  black  mantillas 
thrown  over  their  heads.     A  bit  of  lace  hangs  over  the 


BEAUTIFUL  WOMEN  401 

forehead  like  an  opera  cap,  just  shading  their  fascinat- 
ingly wicked  black  eyes. 

In  their  dress  and  their  elegant  cultivated  bearing 
they  are,  of  course,  vastly  superior  to  the  wild  grace 
of  the  barefooted,  unadorned  Moyabamba  senoritas. 
As  a  rule  they  are  slender  and  petite. 

They  are  not  averse  to  a  little  innocent  flirtation  on 
their  way  to  church.  When  the  blonde  Englishman  or 
American  encounters  on  the  narrow  pavement  a  bevy 
of  these  prettily  draped  senoritas,  the  eyes  of  all  beam- 
ing approvingly  upon  him  because  he  steps  aside  to  let 
them  pass  (which  the  senors  do  not  do),  he  is  paralyzed 
or  demoralized,  and  wonders  why  that  pretty  one 
smiled  at  him,  and  perhaps  he  may  turn  his  steps  and 
follow  them  to  church  with  the  hope  of  getting 
acquainted ;  but  he  will  be  disappointed.  It  is  wonder- 
ful what  an  innocuous  expression  of  innocence  and 
purity  the  pretty  faces  of  the  little  senoritas  kneeling 
in  church  will  assume.  One  who  observes  it  at  first 
is  apt  to  think  that  but  for  the  want  of  a  halo  and 
wings  in  place  of  the  fascinating  mantilla  draped  at 
the  back  as  only  a  senorita  can  do  it,  and  an  occasional 
wicked  glance  from  under  her  drooping  eyelids,  that 
she  is  a  veritable  angel.  But  the  best  of.it  is  that  they 
are  not  as  much  like  angels  as  they  appear  to  be. 

In  Para  there  are  more  men  than  women,  to  which 
fact  may  be  charged  its  wickedness.  There  are  but 
few  churches,  but  it  contains  the  finest  theatre  in  South 
America. 

In  Lima  there  are  many  more  senoritas  than  senors, 
and  there  are  innumerable  churches  and  not  one 
respectable  theatre.     It  has,  however,  the  largest  bull 


402  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

ring  in  the  world,  where  the  populace  gathers  Sunday 
afternoons,  while  the  Para  crowds  go  to  the  races. 
In  both  places  Sunday  devotions  end  with  the  attend- 
ance at  a  morning  mass. 

It  is  probable  that  the  constant  church  attendance 
in  Lima  is  more  a  matter  of  custom  than  from  a  sense 
of  devotion. 

In  discussing  this  subject  with  a  pretty  senorita,  who 
had  travelled  in  Europe  and  America,  it  was  jestingly 
observed  that  the  stranger  visiting  Lima  would  come 
to  the  conclusion  from  so  much  church-going  that  the 
people  were  very  good  or  very  bad,  to  which  she  aptly 
retorted :  ''In  your  country  and  in  London  I  saw  every- 
where that  soap  was  extensively  advertised.  Should  I 
conclude  that  your  people  were  very  clean  or  very 
dirty?" 

The  Lima  senoritas  of  the  exclusive  sets  are  as  up  to 
date  as  our  ladies  of  culture  and  refinement.  They 
have  excellent  schools  and  libraries,  and  some  of  the 
most  cultured  society  may  be  reached  by  those  who  are 
properly  presented.  Our  visitors  as  a  rule  do  not 
know  anything  of  Lima^s  home  or  family  life,  as  it 
exists  among  the  better  classes.  The  Castilian  spoken 
here  is  as  perfect  as  that  heard  in  Madrid.  It  is  incon- 
trovertible that  some  of  the  descendents  of  the  best 
early  Spanish  families  live  in  Lima,  reduced  in  circum- 
stances by  the  unfortunate  depressed  condition  of  the 
country,  who  are  yet  as  proud  as  in  the  days  of  their 
prosperity. 

During  my  stay  it  was  my  pleasure  to  have  met 
Ijiany^  very  many  friends,  and  enjoyed  an  experience 


FRIENDS  IN  LIMA  403 

that  would  make  several  long  chapters  that  might  be 
of  interest  for  private  table  talks  with  friends. 

For  special  favors,  I  acknowledge  my  obligations  to 
a  young  Englishman,  Mr.  Oliver  O.  Pike,  of  Grace  &  Co., 
and  my  genial  German  friend,  Alfredo  Reich,  and  my 
cherished  Irish  host,  the  superintendent  of  the  Gas  Com- 
pany, Barney  O'Hara  (with  the  Spanish  name,  Don 
Barnado  O'Hara)  and  his  charming  daughters. 

Of  the  Americans  resident  in  Lima  are  courteous 
Ricardo  Neill,  of  Philadelphia,  who  has  been  Secretary 
of  the  Legation  through  many  administrations  and  that 
he  almost  forgets  he  is  an  American,  and  the  railway 
magnate  who  impresses  his  Americanisms  on  all,  Don 
Juan  L.  Thorndyke,  superintendent  of  the  Ferro  Car- 
rile,  or  the  great  Andes  Railway,  constructed  by  the 
American  engineer,  Henry  Meigs.  I  record  my  special 
obligations  to  the  popular  Don  Juan  Thorndyke  for 
special  favors,  as  also  to  some  gentlemen  of  the  Amer- 
ican Club  for  courtesies. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  Don  Juan,  a  trip  was  made 
over  this  celebrated  Oroyo  Railway,  starting  from  the 
station  which  bears  the  significant  name  of  De  Sem- 
perados,  which  means  ''God  have  mercy  upon  us,"  so 
named  because  it  was  the  location  of  the  scenes  of  the 
terrible  Inquisition. 

In  the  three  hours'  ride  up  the  once  sacred  valley  of 
the  Rimac,  we  zig-zagged  for  eighty  miles  on  a  con- 
tinuous four  per  cent,  grade,  alternating  up  cat  steps,  or 
Vs,  instead  of  curves,  ascending  over  three  miles  in 
altitude  and  reaching  the  top  of  the  Andes,  the  highest 
point  on  the  face  of  the  earth  whereon  a  steam  piston 
has  worked. 


404  THE  LAND  OF  TO-MORROW 

Through  the  Galleria  tunnel,  a  mile  long,  we  de- 
scended into  the  Oroyo  valley,  the  fresh  beauty  of  which 
caused  a  sense  of  homesickness  as  we  saw  the  water 
again  running  towards  our  Amazonia. 

It  is  but  a  few  days'  muleing  or  tramping  from  the 
end  of  this  Oroyo  Railroad  to  a  settlement  of  Germans 
in  the  Chanchamayo  valley.  From  this  point,  also,  the 
river  Patchitea  and  Tambo  may  be  reached  in  a  few 
days,  where  canoes  may  be  obtained  to  the  Ucayali  in 
the  proper  season.  There  is  also  the  Pichis  route,  to 
be  reached  from  this  railway  terminal. 

It  is  desired  and  hoped  that  the  road  may  be  com- 
pleted to  the  river,  but  as  there  are  mountains  to  over- 
come and  immense  valleys  or  gorges  to  span,  the  ex- 
pense of  the  work  in  the  depressed  condition  of  the 
country  will  delay  its  completion. 

On  the  return  to  Lima  we  had  a  remarkably  thrilling 
descent  on  a  wild  engine  at  night. 

It  had  been  my  original  plan  to  return  to  Iquitos  by 
this  railroad  passage  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Ucayali 
and  thence  canoe  it  for  the  thousand  miles  down  stream, 
or  until  I  might  meet  with  Don  Carlos'  boat  on  that 
river,  as  he  had  kindly  agreed  to  meet  me,  but  circum- 
stances prevented  for  a  time  the  consummation  of  the 
plans  subsequently  carried  out. 

We  had  thus  crossed  and  re-crossed  the  first  Andes 
three  times  and  the  continent  once.  The  journey  home 
was  made  by  steamer  on  the  Pacific  to  Panama,  along 
the  Peruvian  coast  to  our  point  of  arrival  at  Pacamayo, 
thence  to  Guyaquil  in  Ecuador,  and  on  to  the  bay  and 
the  city  of  Panama. 

After  having  crossed  the  continent  at  its  widest,  we 


RETURN  VIA  PANAMA  405 

were  now  returning  via  the  narrowest  part.  A  delay 
of  several  days  and  a  railroad  ride  of  forty-seven  miles 
across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  does  not  afford  much 
opportunity  to  judge  of  the  work  on  the  Panama  canal, 
which  parallels  the  railroad,  but  one  is  surprised  that 
the  work  was  not  begun  sooner  and  long  since  com- 
pleted. 

There  does  not  seem  to  be  any  obstacles  that  engin- 
eering ability  should  not  as  readily  have  overcome  long 
ago  as  were  the  difficulties  that  beset  Pizarro  and  his 
followers  on  the  same  isthmus,  and  that  were  by  their 
persistence  surmounted  without  the  aid  of  advanced 
scientific  appliances. 

The  time  from  Lima  to  Panama  is  about  ten  days,  and 
from  thence  to  New  York  about  eight  days  more,  a 
journey  of  some  twenty  days,  at  a  cost  of  about  $200.00 
in  gold. 

I  find  these  words  in  the  "last  paragraph"  of  my 
notes,  written  some  time  previous: 

**  When  I  return,  it  will  be  by  the  more  circuitous  route 
from  Europe  to  the  Platte  at  Buenos  Ayres,  thence  over 
the  railroad  to  Chili,  and  from  thence  to  Mollienda, 
the  seaport  of  Peru,  from  which  Cuzco  is  reached; 
thence  down  the  historic  Urubamba  by  rough  riding 
in  canoes  for  1,000  miles  through  canyons  to  the 
Ucayali  and  Iquitos.  Thence  to  the  original  starting 
point  at  the  Consulate  of  Para,  from  the  most  distant 
source  to  the  mouth. ' ' 

This  return  journey  was  made  precisely  as  outlined, 
the  story  of  which  is  told  in  the  second  volume,  or 
*' Rough  Riding  in  the  Land  of  the  Inca. " 
THE  END 


The  South  American  Correspondence  Bureau 

p.  O.   STATION   "A,"  WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 

THIS  Bureau  has  been  established  for 
the  benefit  of  those  residents  of  South 
and  Central  America  and  Mexico  and 
the  islands  who  may  desire  specific  information 
or  contemplate  buying  American  goods,  or 
selling  the  products  of  their  own  lands  in  the 
United  States,  as  well  as  to  supply  data  to  the 
United  States  merchants  or  others  who  may  be 
interested  in  the  devejopment  of  the  Land  of  To- 
morrow, especially  in  the  exchange  of  products 
of  the  Amazon  and  Mississippi  valleys,  particu- 
larly rubber,  coffee,  cacao,  and  materia  medica. 
The  Bureau  maintains  special  correspond- 
ence with  the  principal  newspapers  of  the  coun- 
tries interested,  which  in  addition  to  personal 
experience  and  extensive  private  correspondence 
in  the  Spanish,  Portuguese,  as  well  as  the 
English,  furnish  the  facilities  of  a  private  clear- 
ing house. 


BY  J.  ORTON  KERBEY 

"  The  Boy  Spy,''^  well  known  to  all  G.  A.  R.  men  and  their  families 
a  few  years  ago,  is  now  being  issued  in  cheaper  binding  and  may  be  had 
postpaid  for  $i.oo  in  cloth. 

There  are  over  600  pages  and  60  full-page  illustrations  by  the  artists 
Coffin  and  True  Williams. 

IN  PREPARATION 

A  sequel  to  the  '*Land  of  To-morrow,"  describing  the  return  trip  or 
from  West  to  East  or  down  stream  by  a  thousand  miles  of  canoeing  on  the 
upper  Arhazon  from  Cuzco,  is  in  preparation,  which  is  really  a  second 
volume  of  the  "Land  of  To-morrow  j  "  will  soon  be  ready  j  also  "O 
Consul  Americano  Na  Amazonas." 


Hr,  <n ^^i>^}^^i7- 


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WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
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